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Engine Removal

2

Comments

  • Starter is not out, I saw that binding as I was givng up. I did not disconnect the trani, trying to pull as one unit. Help
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    So is it hanging up or not budging? How about the speedo cable.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Here ya go:

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
    2. Drain the engine cooling system and the engine oil into separate drain pans.
    3. Matchmark and remove the hood from the vehicle.
    4. On 1997 models, remove the battery.
    5. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands. It will be most convenient if the truck can be supported so underhood access is still possible. Otherwise, the truck will have to be raised and lowered multiple times during the procedure for the necessary access.
    6. Unplug the Oxygen sensor electrical connection.
    7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. On some models it may also be necessary to disconnect the catalytic converter from the exhaust pipe.
    8. Remove the braces from the engine and the transmission (if equipped).
    9. On 1998-99 models, remove the starter motor.
    10. Unbolt the transmission and separate it from the engine or, if necessary, remove it from the vehicle.
    11. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the alternator rear brace by unfastening the bolt and nuts.
    12. Disconnect the ground straps from the engine block and remove the drive belt.
    13. On 1997 models, GM recommends that you remove the water pump.
    14. Remove the A/C compressor and bracket. If possible, set the compressor and bracket to one side without disconnecting the lines.
    15. Tag and disconnect the hoses and transmission coolant lines engaged to the radiator, then remove the radiator.
    16. Remove the power steering pump and cap the power steering lines to avoid contamination.
    17. Tag and disengage the heater hoses from the heater core in the bulkhead or from the manifold.
    18. Disconnect the 12 volt supply from the mega fuse, if necessary.
    19. Tag and unplug all electrical connections and wiring harnesses.
    20. Tag and unplug all vacuum lines.
    21. Disengage the throttle cable, and if equipped the cruise control cable.
    22. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the EGR pipe and the EGR valve.
    23. Disconnect the fuel lines.
    24. Install a suitable lifting device to the engine.
    25. Remove the engine mount bolts and carefully lift the engine from the vehicle. Pause several times while lifting the engine to make sure no wires or hoses have become snagged.
  • on a 1996 f 150 does the cab need to be raised to remove the engine.
  • 1992 toyota pickup. Put a rebuilt motor in three years ago along with many other parts. Just blew 2 cylinders. So much for the 22re being indestructible! Want to keep the truck. Should I get a junkyard motor, another rebuilt, or one of those brand new after market motors from ebay?

    Thanks,
    Tony
  • Well a "rebuild" is only as good as the rebuilder. Some "rebuilds" are merely "overhauls" (a big difference).

    Rebuild should mean "all parts renewed or machined back to factory spec" (e.g., rebore cylinders with oversize pistons, re-machine crank with oversize bearings).

    Overhaul means "bad parts replaced, serviceable parts left alone". This usually means new rings on old pistons, maybe new bearing shells on an old crank, and a valve job and a paint job.

    Unless the rest of the truck is really pristine, I'd go for a junkyard motor that's been tested, bagged and warrantied.
  • The truck is good shape but not pristine. I put a lot of money into this truck and I can't afford to replace it with something newer. I think I'll go with the junkyard motor as suggested.

    Thanks
  • But only a tested engine,, with oil pressure and compression test #s written on a tag. Or if it's some bargain-basement place, you have GOT to hear it run and be able to test it yourself. That's just too much labor for rolling dice.
  • i have a mazda b4000 that im doing a motor swap on. i have taken everything off the motor and took out all bolts holding the tranny and block together, and the 4 bolts holding the fly wheel and tourqe converter togehter, but the engine just wont come out. just wondering if there is something im over looking?
  • helpme20helpme20 Posts: 1
    hello can anyone tell me how to get a 6.9 diesel engine out of a 83 ford e350 van , there is no room to lift the engine up????????
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    One way I have seen it done is to fashion a plate that bolts to the carb (or throttle body) mounting flange on the intake manifold and then pull the motor straight out the front after removing the radiator, grill, etc. That's on a gas engine though, I wonder if it's possible on a diesel.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    E-250---350

    1. Disconnect battery ground cables and remove engine cover.
    2. Drain cooling system, then remove front bumper, grille assembly and gravel deflector.
    3. On models equipped with speed control, unfasten speed control servo bracket and position aside.
    4. On all models, scribe hood latch location, then remove latch and cable assembly from grille upper support bracket.
    5. Remove upper grille support.
    6. On models equipped with A/C, discharge refrigerant from system, then remove A/C condenser.
    7. On all models, disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from oil cooler and radiator, then remove oil cooler with mounting brackets.
    8. Disconnect radiator hoses from engine, then remove fan shroud, fan and radiator. The fan retaining nut has left hand threads.
    9. Remove vacuum pump and drive belt, then disconnect vacuum line from transmission modulation pipe.
    10. Remove alternator adjusting arm, adjusting arm bracket and drive belt, then pivot alternator inward toward engine.
    11. Disconnect alternator electrical connectors from alternator and fuel line heater.
    12. Disconnect water temperature sender electrical connector from left front of cylinder block.
    13. Disconnect water temperature overheat lamp switch electrical connector from top front of left cylinder head.
    14. Remove engine ground cables from bottom front of engine.
    15. On models equipped with power steering, remove steering pump and bracket, then disconnect and plug return line from steering pump and position pump aside.
    16. On models equipped with A/C, disconnect refrigerant lines from A/C compressor.
    17. On all models, disconnect vacuum hose between injection pump and vacuum regulator valve and position aside.
    18. Disconnect and cap fuel heater inlet line from fuel filter and fuel pump.
    19. Remove air cleaner and intake duct and place a suitable cover over intake manifold opening.
    20. Disconnect and cap fuel filter outlet line from fuel filter and injection pump, then cover the injection pump and fuel filter openings.
    21. Remove fuel filter return line, then the fuel filter and bracket as an assembly.
    22. On models equipped with A/C, loosen A/C compressor mounting bolts and rotate compressor toward engine.
    23. On all models, disconnect and plug fuel inlet line at fuel pump.
    24. Disconnect accelerator and speed control cables, if equipped from injection pump and bracket on intake manifold and position aside. Remove cable bracket.
    25. Disconnect engine wiring harnesses and position aside.
    26. Remove transmission kickdown rod, then disconnect heater hose from water pump and right cylinder head.
    27. On models equipped with A/C and/or auxiliary heater, remove hoses from bracket at left rear of engine.
    28. On all models, disconnect oil pressure sender electrical connector from rear of engine.
    29. Disconnect fuel return line from left rear of engine, then remove transmission oil dipstick tube attaching bolt from rear of right cylinder head.
    30. Remove engine oil dipstick and tube.
    31. Remove ground cable to cylinder block attaching bolt, then the 4 upper transmission-to-engine attaching bolts.
    32. Raise and support vehicle.
    33. Remove engine mount attaching nuts, then disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds.
    34. Remove converter inspection plate, then the 4 converter to flywheel attaching nuts.
    35. Remove starter cable, then move fuel, line on No. 1 crossmember down and aside.
    36. Lower vehicle and attach suitable lifting equipment to engine.
    37. Support transmission with a suitable jack and remove remaining engine to transmission attaching bolts.
    38. Separate engine from transmission, then raise engine high enough to clear No. 1 crossmember. Move engine forward and remove from vehicle.
    39. Reverse procedure to install.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,348
    Sounds like LOTS of fun!
  • ajaksajaks Posts: 11
    Great but which hose goes to which pole? There is a plastic protrusion between two poles. Is this a marker? And again which hose to which pole on the transfer case switch?
    Thanks
  • dmonicdmonic Posts: 2
    ok how hard would it be to git a 94-96 3000gt that is FWD and switch it to 4WD what parts would you kneed i understand a 4WD tranny will be kneeded .
    plz help because i am abought to drop in the 6g72tt in it and i kneed it 4WD
  • hi, im new to the site and i have a project im planning to start this summer. ive got an 88 ford f150 v8 302 5.0. im looking to pull the engine, drivetrain, suspension steering column, everything that makes the truck run basically. but i wanna know where to start and what things too look out for on the way. to be specific i wanna throw everything into a dunebuggy frame that ill have finished by the next summer. once i have all the parts out i can take measurements and build the frame accordingly. can anyone help????
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    Well first off, what are we going to DO with this dune buggy? Street legal only, off-road fun + street legal, offroad only + serious course, road racing across Mexico?
  • uhh, for now i was thinking off-road fun. more or less its just a base model, ill improve upon it later. right now im between two trucks to use for it. an 88 ford f150 v8 302 5.0L, which is for free, he said it runs, its just missing a starter. the other is an old 4cylinder ranger, rwd, standard transmission, running. i dont know the year of the ranger onhand. which vehicle would be the best option for what i want? also if i can help it i would like independant suspension, but are these vehicles able to go that way, and what things dictate whether or not u can have independant suspension?
  • Actually offroad and street legal......
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    Might be good for you to do some homework before digging into this. I don't really have the expertise but I do know enough about car projects to know that one needs "a plan" laid out before starting.

    Maybe a subscription to this mag might be a good start for you?

    http://www.prerunnermaniac.com/

    Looks like they know how to set up a PU for fast desert racing!
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