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Nissan 300ZX

1910111315

Comments

  • lover1lover1 Posts: 2
    i am buyin a 300zx from my boss he says lifters tick and second gear is goin out how hard would it be to put a manual trans in it and would it be money wise the right thing or fix the automatic please help
  • driftydrifty Posts: 1
    so i have an 87 300zx n/a and it was starting fine until last night. it doesnt pull from the battery, all my lights and stuff work...but it wont even attempt to start, now i kno it could be anything from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, but i notticed wen i turn the key, everything stays on except the clock and the security light blinks. any thoughts?
  • tim15tim15 Posts: 10
    I just bought a 1986 300 ZX turbo with 120K that has always been adult owned. Everything works, including the a/c/ . I have a few questions, if anyone can help...
    1. What viscosity oil, and regular or synthetic?
    2. The transmission shifts nicely, but the fluid looks dirty. SHould I change it or leave it alone?
    3. ANy way to check the timing belt? I don't know when it has been replaced.
    ANy other tips will be appreciated. Thanks Tim
  • Is there a glue or a kit to fix the dash at the defrost vents on the 300 zx. The past 3 I have had have this problem
  • abirchabirch Posts: 2
    I have a 90 300zx non turbo, i have been experiencing a noise like a loose lifter up top on the passenger side of the block. also i have no idea why but i have been dumping fuel bad, my oil pan has a huge fuel content to it. i have just gotten it reasently and im not real fullmilure with the fuctions of this car. if anyony can lend any pointers of were to start it would be greatly appreiated, and i thank you in advance.
  • Probably a bad injector and possibly a head gasket...how long have you had it and in what state did you buy it....either get rid of it..or order a jdm engine. As much as a love these cars...the injectors go if they haven't been replaced in the vicinity of 130k and the head gaskets seem to blow easily. I have had 6z's now...and have had ONE on the road...i cut the rest up for parts b/c they had so many issues. Let me know if you need parts....i'm scrapping on this week that's stripped except for the engine.
  • abirchabirch Posts: 2
    ive only had it for about a mounth. it was my friends car that i was helping him build. it just had a new RS crate engine put in, that was ready to go pretty much out the crate. when the engine place put it in they said it was normal but it doesnt sound right. he was tired of it and let me get it. dont think head gasket, not over heating now that i fixed a hose, and no water in my oil.

    im not sure about my injectors, never checked them. i was thinking along the line of fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.

    if i were to have to order the engine about how much do they run, and what website would i need to go to for a good one.
  • I don't know if I'm just getting to old or loosing my mind or both but I don't know how in the world me got to scrapping an engine (or car) because it has a fuel leak. I'm not a car mechanic, but I have been a construction equipment mech for more than 40 yrs and during this time, I can count on one hand (maybe 1 1/2) that I've had to bring a car to another mech. If this car had a carburater, I would say have it rebuilt and thats it. BUT, its fuel injected, which I know almost nothing about but I do know this. There's very few places that can cause your crankcase to fill with fuel. If this was my car, I would buy the manual and just keep pulling components off until I found the one thats leaking, replace it and I'm done!!!! I bought my car ('86 n-t) a few months ago and the engine ran so poorly that the guy took $550.00 for the car. I started "sniffing" around and found that all of the injector connections were corroded. I spent less than $100.00 on the car, cleaned and re-insulated all the connections and now, you have to turn the radio down to hear if the engine is running. AND, if I want to have some fun, I can spin the wheels and wake up the whole neighborhood
    Get some wrenches, get some advice, and fix the dam thing!!!!
  • 1990 300zx non-turbo Coupe ........ Old starter went bad so I replaced it. Now the car will not start. Can someone please help me out.

    Thanks
  • bad electrical....you prob moved the grounds and wires enough to disrupt them....i had LOADS of issues with just moving wires around and making bad connections...try cleaning them up if it ran prior to the starter failing.
  • when sitting in nuetral turbo gauge at -7...when given a quick jab on throttle gauge quickly rises to zero, but not above....does this seem normal....car is not ready for road yet.....does it have to be on road to start building positive pressure
    thanks
  • ambient display reads -56 and never changes compressor will not turn on....any suggestions if it is the sensor where exactly is it
  • Hey Buc, this is Dave (engdocpro). I read that you've scrapped out some Zs. I've got an '86 n-t 2+2 and I'm looking for some parts on the cheep. #1 I need the two struts that hold the hood up. #2, I need 3 hub covers for the standard alloy wheels #3 I need the bottom leather and vinyl seat cover for the drivers side (has to be tan) and OEM #4, I need an Injector cooler relay, the one thats located under the side panel by the left rear seat #5, I need a r/s headlight lift motor (got to be working one) #6, I need the two little knobs that you push up to release the handle on "T" top. Also, any ideas on where to get OEM headliner material (tan). You can reach me at: engdoc39@hotmail.com Thanks
  • I own a 1986 turbo,I don't think you have a problem.At an idle the guage shows a vacuum of -7 as you hit the acellerater the throttle plate opens thus showing less vac between the plate and the intake,what you should find is that when driving this condition will be noticed as turbo spools and transitions from vac to boost.hope this helps.
  • your ? 3 the timeing belt is behined your fan protected by a metal case over 2 pullies you cen check the teeth on it but if it comes off line it up with the 1ST spark plug wire in the distributer cap.
  • i have a 89 nissan 300zx i replaced the water pump and timeing belt fixed timeing but it wont start. any thoughts?
  • i have some extra tubes that came with my swap that are connected to some sensors of some sort don`t know where they go if ANYONE HAS ANY INFORMATION please help!!!!!
  • Thats not really true, if the drive shaft is not true (out of balance) it will still cause the vibe because it is still spinning. shaft doesn't have to be under a load. best thing to do is to jack up the rear install jack stand under the chassis remove the rear wheel put lugs back on spindle and tighten. Put the car into drive and accelerate above 40 mph. if vibe still exist then drop drive shaft and get yourself a one piece drive shaft. you can take your old shaft to your local machine shop and they will build you one using your old yokes. approximate shop time is 2 hrs plus the price of the tube. Total time it takes me to remove from vehicle and reinstall is 1 hr.
  • I have recently swapped the engine in my 88 300zx and have been unable to start the car. The security light on the instrument panel flashes continually after the battery is connected, even after the door locks have been cycled (the recommended reset for the system). I know that the security system shuts off the fuel supply to the injectors and that seems to be where the problem is, since I have established that I have spark and all else appears normal. My question is: would having the rear hatch off for paint be the cause of the security system not resetting and therefore shutting down the fuel supply?
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