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Honda Accord Modifications

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  • psypsy Posts: 122
    Im not going to do any performance mods for sometime to come. !st mod was to rip the dealer advert. off. :) may de badge it this weekend and I want to do a led mod to the H on the grill. will use red leds ,, the cars red. Get the windows tinted and do a clear bra. Also going to do the alum. trim kit.

    All cosmetic,, we really like the car ;)
  • dmbst68dmbst68 Posts: 50
    I'm probably going to purchase a 2005 Accord EX-L Sedan w/ Auto (not sure whether or not I want the NAV system yet) in late June or late July. I'm seriously considering replacing the rear deck speakers and the front door speakers. I'm uncertain about an amplifier, but I'll probably just swap the factory speakers out for good ones and skip the amp.

    How difficult is it to do this swap? Does the entire front door panel have to be removed to replace those speakers? Or is it the case where the grills will come right off?

    How about the rear deck speakers? If it's a real pain to replace the front ones, especially since I'm not a pro installer, I may just do the rear ones.

    Advice please!!

    I've looked at Crutchfield, Circuit City, etc., and it appears that I'll need to spend $150 for each pair to get decent replacements. I wish Honda offered designer factory systems, like JBL, Bose, etc., like other manufacturers do.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,623
    Hi!

    I'm afraid you are on the wrong board. This is "Speed Shop". Let me re-direct you. I think you should be asking this question here:

    Honda Accord Owners: Accessories

    MrShiftright
    Co-Host

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • timfsctimfsc Posts: 5
    Hey guys, I have a 2001 Accord EX-L...Vtec. I have only added an AEM CAI and want to do headers/exhaust also. Any reccomends for this project? Are the ECU hp/speed chips crap, or are they legit? and...finally, a good set of 17-18" rims multispoke and not chromed out.

    Thanks in advance!
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Are you sure you want to do that? I really like the sound system in my 05 EX-L. It has a lot of bass and the front tweeters mounted on the pillars produce good trouble. I had an 04 Suburban with the Bose System before the Honda. I am a big Bose fan; I have two surround sound systems in my home. I was very disappointed in the Bose system in my Suburban. It did not have enough bass and it sounded "tinny." I will take the Honda system several times over the Bose System in a car. Just wondering if you have listened to the system for any period of time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,623
    I don't think 18" are a good idea...you get a harsh ride, more tire wear, and you'll increase your braking distance----all that is lost, and you don't gain anything except how it looks. Not worth that trade-off, IMO.

    As for the chips, I think that depends a LOT on:

    1. What they are claiming AND guaranteeing to you (if your dyno doesn't show the HP they claim, can you get a refund?)

    2. If they explain the engineering principles to you---what are the manipulating in your system to get the power they claim? Are they screwing around with timing? How much? Will you lose fuel economy? How much?

    3. I think your intake/exhaust headers is a good idea because you understand that you are dealing with an inter-related system....no sense improving the front end if you aren't improving the back end.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • emanbemanb Posts: 6
    I am planning to purchase an 05 accord v6 pretty soon one of the first thing I would like to replace is the exhaust and probably drop the sucker as well. question is does this modifications void the factory warranty?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Talk with a service advisor at the dealership when you purchase your car. He can tell you. It will void certain parts of your warranty but not the entire coverage. I called the dealer about my son's 05 Civic that I recently purchased because he wanted to go with larger chrome rims and low profile tires. The advisor told me it would void the warranty on the suspension and the transmission. He said that he had not seen either of those affected by different wheels but that those were Honda's rules.
  • todd7todd7 Posts: 16
    I have an 05 EX and temj12 is correct. If you replace the exhaust and suspension, that part of the warranty goes away. My car is a manual transmission, and that portion of the warrany is not voided in my case. Be VERY CAREFUL with what aftermarket parts you use. Accords are hard to modify CORRECTLY.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,623
    It's my understanding of the law that the dealer would have to PROVE that the modification you made led directly to the warranty item that failed. Of course, they can just ignore the law and harass you, leaving it up to you to enforce the law, which isn't easy.

    In the case say of cutting your springs or changing them out to lower the car, a good case can be made that this will destroy your OEM shocks, so I'd be on the dealer's side about that. But claiming that a cat-back exhaust system damaged an engine, that's pretty hard to believe and I don't think it would hold up to legal scrutiny.

    Here's a whole thingie on the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

    http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.htm

    Sometimes a dealership will tell you things that are true, and sometimes they really don't know the law themselves...so don't presume they are right when they deny you warranty.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • emanbemanb Posts: 6
    Thanks for all who chimed in on this.

    I will checkout the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and hopefully it will shed some light to the grey areas.
  • germanygermany Posts: 2
    I live in Germany and am trying to do minor upgrades to my 2005 ex 4 cyl. Just trying to increase pick-up not top speed. But also don't want to void the factory warranty. Is that possible? Thanks for any help.
  • timfsctimfsc Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info on the speed/hp chips and what I should be looking for regarding the info...I guess I am gonna try to change form the factory 15" rims to 17" instead. Will that make the car looked more jacked up? Do I need to mess with suspension in order to get those on?

    BTW its a 01 accord ex-l, only 4 cyl...I installed an AEM CAI, will that reduce fuel efficiency in everyday stop and go traffic? and is there much more of an HP increase, or should I revert to the OEM airbox? ...I DO want to change out headers, what5s a good brand that someone has had success with?

    -Tim
  • I am finishing up all of my exterior modifications on my '99 accord and now i am looking to start work on my engine. Currently I only have an exhaust system in place. I am going to purchase headers and intake soon but I would like some tips on what other components to buy. What should I install and in what order should I do it.
  • I have 17" rims on my accord and you do not need to mess with the suspension to get them on. With 17" you can actually go with a medium profile tire if you want, it helps prevent so many blow outs. If you are interseted in doing work on your suspension you can actually lower your car some. I lowered mine 1.5" front and rear and still have a little room to increase the size of my rims.
  • turtle975turtle975 Posts: 2
    Blane (and all),

    My advice is specific to Performance Friction pads and is consistant with the manufacturer's instructions. The reason I know it is that I worked in the Research and Development department of a disc brake pad manufacturer. It is based on a lot of testing and real world research for these pads. Specifically, we had a machine with a complete brake set up (rotor, pads, caliper, etc.) hooked up to a mass of spinning weights (the weight is calculated and set based on the weight of the car). We could measure the pad and rotor temperature, brake line pressure, and the speed of rotation of the mass. Since the mass was known, we could calculate the coeficient of friction. We consistantly found that pads performed better after "bedding" them in. By better, I mean that the performance was more linear, they lasted longer (we followed up tests with wear tests that lasted days and included regular, precise measurements of the pad thickness), and had more linear performance - they "felt" better too.

    We then validated this testing with on vehicle testing. For vehicle tests, we would put pressure transducers on the brake lines and the brake peddal so we would know the exact amount of fource. We also had a "fifth wheel" to measure speed and distance of the stops.

    And no, you don't have to do this, however we were talking about how to get the best braking performance and for these pads, bedding them yeilds the best performance.

    There was some discussion as to why this is the case (see below). It is not just because (as one person speculated) that it matches the groves in the rotor. We found these results to be true even if you had a brand new rotor. We were never 100% sure as to why (they may have worked out exactly why since I left the company). And if I did know, I would not tell you as it might be a trade secret. I can tell you this: stopping five to eight times hard gets the brake pad surface temperature way up there - 500° to 700°. I believe this has something to do with it.

    This is one of the reasons it is very important to change your brake fluid every few years. Brake fluid has a high boiling point, but, it absorbs water from the air over time and the boiling point drops a lot. If you get the brakes hot on a car and the fluid is old, you may cause the fluid to boil and become vapor. This means that you won't be able to stop. The majority of people who own cars don't do their own work. And many of those that do, don't ever change their brake fluid completely. So it is safe to assume that most of the cars on the road have 'old' brake fluid in them. I believe that many brake pads beside performance friction pads, would work better if they were bedded. However, the manufacturer alters the pad compound so it the pads will work better right out of the box so you don't have to bed them. This, however has the effect of reducing the brake pad life and performance. But it avoids any potential liability from heating the brakes up on purpose and boiling the fluid - and the pads will work, will be safe, and the majority of people simply don't care. Note that the back of the pad, and the piston, are lower in temperature. You have to REALLY get the brakes hot to get the entire pad, caliper, and piston that hot. At some point, some auto manufacturers experimented with phenolic (sp?) pistons - pistons not made of metal so they would not transfer heat to the brake fluid as well.

    BUT - this is a performance discussion. I firmly believe that if you are going to take steps to make your car faster, you should also take steps to make sure you can control the speed safely. Good brakes and tires are part of that. So is making sure your brake fluid is not old.

    Side note: High performance brake fluid is worth the extra money. Make sure you buy it from somewhere that sells a lot of it as we also had tested the boiling points of 'old' vs. 'fresh' brake fluid from a sealed container and found that fluid that had been on the shelf for a year or two did not perform as well.

    As to exactly why bedding works - well I have an idea. But out of respect to my old employeer, I am not going to say because it may be a trade secret. I do know that we tested it both ways and it made a big difference with this specific brand of pads - Performance Friction. I also know that I have never found any other pad that work as well, last as long, and are easier on rotors.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    turtle975:

    Thank you for that comprehensive discussion. It's very helpful.

    I guess that I have only two comments to add.

    - If bedding brakes as you've described, do it only on a "dry" day. Such high temperatures could conceivably cause rotor warping in the presence of water.

    - I concur that most vehicle owners have no clue about the need to change brake fluid on the vehicle manufacturer's schedule. It should be noted that if an owner uses some fluid from a new container, and places it back on the garage shelf for a year or two, moisture (in the form of humid air) may have entered the container and contaminated the fluid. Thus the recommendation to use only sealed brake fluid.
  • timfsctimfsc Posts: 5
    Where would I even start to find out how to convert the green LEDs in the dash to Blue oneS?

    -Tim
  • gatrhumpygatrhumpy Posts: 126
    No one makes a kit for it yet. You would have to custom build a turbo, along with the piping, intercooler, etc. Doing that would cost around $5,000 - $10,000. You would also probably have to build up your bottom end, get a turbo timer, and a new ECU (if you can't reflash it). All in all, you're looking at spending $7,000 - $20,000 for everything. If you want more power, buy a newer car.
  • Does anybody have any good experience with only a throttle body spacer on a stock engine? Is there expected increase in torque and fuel economy as advertised?

    I want to increase low to mid response with budget modifications. If there are other mods than TBS please suggest.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,623
    I've read up on this as much as I can and my conclusion is that any claims for dyno gains from just a spacer is pretty doubtful. MAYBE what you would get is a little better throttle response. Now if you had a LARGER throttle body with spacer and it was all machined to the intake so there were no obstructions, that might help and be noticeable.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • tbishop1tbishop1 Posts: 2
    hi mate its bish sorry cant give you the advice you need but i recently bought a honda accord 1996 1.8 and like you i want to upgrade it increas its horsepower etc let me know if you here anything through the grapevine as i dont know where to start.thanks bish
  • tbishop1tbishop1 Posts: 2
    hi mate i bought a honda accord 1996 1.8 looking to change tyres etc let me know oif any info you get on upgrades ta bish.
  • sam028sam028 Posts: 1
    Hi Tim,
    I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX with 4 cylinder. I bought 17" black rims about three months ago. The problem that I started having is with the brakes. When I went to get the rotors turned, they told me that accords weren't designed to handle a 17" rims. The mechanic told me that the rotors will contine to warp because of a lower tolerance due to having a larger rim.
    I guess my next step is to go and get a 16" rim. Hopefully this helps.
    Sam
  • atlantabennyatlantabenny Posts: 735
    I'm kind of into these things so here're my 2 cents:

    The mechanic's advice was opinion at best and is the stuff of old wives' (mechanics') tales, since what affect brake performance and longevity with regard to rolling stock are 1) total wheel & tire weight, and 2) wheel offset or wheel relationship with the hub.

    Meaning, you could step down to a 16 incher and still have brake problems if the two factors are not satisfied.

    The 98-02 Accord has an original wheel & tire weight between 30 to 40 lbs each and a wheel offset of +55 mm.

    You could get a 17 inch or larger set up and if it meets or betters those 2 parameters (lighter than 30 lbs and betweem +48 to +55 mm), you'd be equal or better than the factory set up, brake- and handling-wise.
  • timfsctimfsc Posts: 5
    Thanks guys for that input on the rims question. I havent made a decision on what size to get, but I always assumed that 17 would look better.

    **where can I go about finding a good grill kit?

    Tim
  • todd7todd7 Posts: 16
    Tim it's relatively easy,just time consuming. I got all my info from cardomain.com.
    You can do a search by make and model
  • mlquillinmlquillin Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Accord with the 2.2 L 4-cyl. engine. I did not get much power out of a K&N air filter, so I'm assuming the exhaust is limiting at this point. I have looked at custom and bolt-on exhaust systems, but given that the mount points between the 3.0 L V6 (dual exhaust) and the 2.2 L 4-cyl. (single exhaust) are equivalent, I am curious to know if simply adding a second exhaust from the 3.0 L would give me the boost I'm looking for. A trip to the junkyard would definitely be easier on the wallet!

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • aca28aca28 Posts: 1
    2000 Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee-and up- when ever rotors and pads are replaced
    you have to burn them in. (Or Bedding as someone mentioned)
    This is normal practice that all technicians do once the job is completed before
    the customer gets there car back.
  • 11worm1111worm11 Posts: 1
    Listen, i've personally had the same problem and a mate who had an integra had the same problem its not that your not gaining what you want it that the K&N will actually loose power other than gain in on the type-r models let me know what K&N you have and i'll get back to you if you want

    :)
    J
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