Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord Modifications



  • kirakipkirakip Posts: 1
    I have a new CD player that I want to install into my 97 Honda Accord. I attempted it last night, but was unable to un-clip the plastic trim that goes around the stereo and shifter... therefore I was unable to get to the stereo. It looks like I have to take apart the whole center column in order to get the trim piece to come out, in order to get to the stereo to replace with the new CD player I have. Ae there any tricks/procedures that I should know about before I go way overboard and dismantel the whole interrior of my new car just so that I camn install a CD player! Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated, as I am going to attempt it again tonight when I get out of work.... hope to hear some sugestions by then so I have a little more guidance. :confuse:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Hi, and welcome to the Edmunds Forums!

    Looks like you've posted in the wrong place. This board is for performance modifications.

    Probably the best place for your post would be here:

    Honda Accord: Accessories

    thank you

    Speed Shop
  • turtle975turtle975 Posts: 2
    Switch to Performance Friction brake pads. You can get them at autozone. I used to work in both the R&D and QA departments at PFC. These are the best brake pads I have ever used. You will want to brake hard five to eight times after you install them. 40mph to zero as hard as you can, back on the gas right away. Change your brake fluid every two or three years too. All brake pads are not equal. There are many aspects to good pads. One is how much the effective coefficient of friction changes with temperature, pressure, and speed. You want these to be as linear as possible. Bad or just OK pads will grab as you increase the pressure. Good ones will slow down a little when you press the brakes a little, slow down a little more when you press a little more, and so on regardless of how fast you are going or how cold or hot the brakes are.

    Someone else said tires are the most important to braking. I disagree. While tires are a critical component, the pads are the most important. You should have both good tires and good brake pads.

    Performance Friction pads cost more, but they last longer and are easier on rotors. You should be able to get a set for the front for around $40.

    I have a 2000 Accord LX.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    WOW turtle975!

    In all of my years of driving, do-it-yourself brake service, and automotive reading, I've never come across advice such as your "You will want to brake hard five to eight times after you install them. 40mph to zero as hard as you can, back on the gas right away."

    That is totally contrary to anything I've ever read on the subject of properly breaking in a new set of brake pads.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Seating your brake pads depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. Some recommend hard stops to bed the pads; others just say to drive moderately for 500 miles.

    Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures (The Tire Rack)

    Steve, Host
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    That's an interesting link. Thank you, I've learned a bit more about the subject. However, I believe that it would be the rare occasion when the typical car owner brings their vehicle in for brake replacement and are told the specific brand of brake used and the nuances of that manufacturer's brake bed-in procedures.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    A good shop would bed them in for the customer.

    Yeah, I believe in the Tooth Fairy too. :)

    I did the last set of pads and rotors on my minivan myself and bedded them in per the instructions (several hard stops from ~45mph, iirc).

    Steve, Host
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    I can't help but think that "bedding" brakes that way is like breaking in a brand new engine by flooring the accelerator pedal and going 100 mph for a couple of hours straight.

    I'd love to know of a single automobile manufacturer that advises "bedding" brakes the way that it has been discussed in this forum recently (with hard stops). Can you (or anyone else) name ONE?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    lol, great question. This may rank up there with the "change your oil every 3,000 mile" legend - looks good on paper but has no basis in fact sort of thing.

    I'll go skim my owner's manuals. Meanwhile, you should ask this over in Stop here! Let's talk about brakes and get some experts opinions.

    Maybe we can get Shifty to weigh in here too.

    Steve, Host
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Ok, on my '99 Quest, the break-in schedule in my owner's manual says "Avoid hard braking as much as possible" (during the first 1,000 miles).

    On my '97 Outback, in the replacementof brake pad and lining section, the manual says "While maintaining a speed of 30 to 40 mph, step on the brake pedal lightly. Repeat this five or more times."

    I haven't found the break-in info for the Outback yet.

    Still debatable but that sounds more like bedding in than not to me. Back to you. :)

    Steve, Host
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    I'm not sure what the theory behind "bedding" is supposed to be here.... I mean, if a good pair of brake pads takes 40,000 miles to wear out, I really don't see what a few hard slams with the pedal are going to do for it one way or the other. We'll all be slamming on the brakes soon enough anyway :P
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    I always assumed it had to do with mating the surface areas so that the grooves and stuff get worn in or lined up. And that would decrease squealing noises. If you have new pads and new rotors, the mating surfaces are relatively smooth anyway and there's less chance of squealing.

    And that's the theory why your brake shop likes to replace both pads and rotors instead of turning the rotors, because a turned rotor will still have grooves that don't mate to the new pads very well and they'll be noisy. Which would explain my Subaru manual's recommendation.

    The shop figures customers will be happier paying more up front for non-squealing brakes and it's cheaper than having customers come back and tie up the technician for ten minutes double-checking the work done.

    I get into all sorts of fun trouble making assumptions like this. :)

    Steve, Host
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    I still don't see how a few slams with a brake pedal are going to change the pad surface. The grooves will all match up sooner or later anyway. Besides, squeal isn't really related to the mating of the pads to the rotors, but rather how they fit in their calipers, if they vibrate, if they are dirty, and the compound of the pads themselves.

    Just put 'em in and drive, that's my two cents.
  • siralek88siralek88 Posts: 3
    Hey, I just got a "new" 97 accord and I want to make it go a little faster. I want the best hp gain for around 500-700 bucks. I was thinking of a cold air, header, pullies catback and maybe cams if I got the money. I was wondering what u guys think and some recomendations u can make.

    ps I dont know anything about cars, so installing might be a problem
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    I think you haven't budgeted enough for all that, but your ideas are okay. Cams would be tricky for a newbie but you could probably handle the rest of it if you could figure a way to "work safe" underneath the car. I wouldn't do the cams unless you are doing in intake header and possibly new injectors.
  • siralek88siralek88 Posts: 3
    i was planning to do the header. what do you mean work safe. the only things ive done is change brakes and oil. I was planning to ebay everything to get it cheap. would the cams really help that much. My only goal is to have a faster car
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    ...he means "no getting under the car while it's supported by the spare tire jack." That sort of thing.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    It's a pain to be installing headers under a car that is 6 inches off the ground. We are always tempted to get the car up higher but that often leads"improvisations" that are kind of teeter-totter.

    Rules for working underneath:

    Never support the car on hydraulic pressure alone (leaving the jack locked to support the car

    Use 4 sturdy GOOD QUALITY jackstands. Do not trust your life to $4.99 jackstands from Kragen made of thin stamped steel. RENT good ones if you have to.

    Let someone know where you are and what you are doing

    Wear eye protection

    RE: CAMS---yeah, aggressive cams and a good intake header can make a big difference, but you need to do homework if you are going to modify the engine internally. You need to find PROVEN combinations of mods that work for your engine, not a piece here and a piece there that have never met before.
  • siralek88siralek88 Posts: 3
    What do you a proven combination. I was just planning to find the cheapest thing on ebay. Are only certain parts made for my car, or do I have to buy everything from the same company? Could u give me an example. Thanx and I appreciate all the help
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Well if I were you I'd cruise the Honda boards here at Edmunds and if that's not enough go off on your own on the Internet and talk to people who have done some mods on a car like yours and get feedback.

    What I'm driving at is that sometimes you can bolt on a certain header or muffler or air filter and it doesn't work real well---you can actually spend money and LOSE power!

    As for what I meant by "combinations", I meant that if you are going to do exhaust work you should also consider some kind of intake work, like a short ram or even a custom intake manifold, as well as exhaust headers and cat-back.

    it's possible that you'll be able to talk to someone who's fitted some or all of these things and can tell you the pros and cons of each installation and the results.

    You'll be a lot happier if you do some homework on this, like you are doing here.
Sign In or Register to comment.