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Honda Accord Modifications

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  • Yes the parts are compatible with my car. Half of it is plug and play and half i have to do some wiring thing. Like there are LEDs which i have to do wiring and halo angles. I bought it from ebay. Those guys were from california. Is there anything you can do? I live in Canada actually. So, i paid 198 + 45 Shipping in US Dollars.
    Please let me know if you have any idea how to install this light.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Sorry, I can't help you with installation information. But you should go down to your local friendly Honda dealer and ask the service advisor to allow you to look at the headlight wiring diagrams and the parts of the shop manual relating to the front end and headlights. They might allow you to photocopy the relevent pages. Of course you will be voiding at least part of your warranty if you modify any wiring or cause electrical problems related to your do-it-yourself project.

    A local body shop may also have the diagrams available. They need them for body repairs.

    My 2004 Accord Coupe's OEM headlights work beautifully.

    Best of luck.
  • I put Silver Stars in my 06 civic.. I am very happy with them. They do ,, in my opinion,, offer the best whitest light and improved night vision.
  • gatrhumpygatrhumpy Posts: 126
    OK, this is going to be a somewhat long post, so here goes.

    My battery is draining somehow. I started to notice this problem when I was down in Florida (I live in Maryland) for a government class I had to take last March - May. I tried to start up the car one morning, and nothing happened. I thought it was the battery going bad, so I went to Autozone and replaced it.

    It happened again with the same battery, but it started happening again when I got back to Maryland in May. I was mad because I thought it was the battery again. So I went to Autozone to have the battery tested, and it was fine.

    Going back to February, I paid a kid at Best Buy $20 under the table to hook up two wires from my DVD player so my wife could watch movies. The two wires that I needed hooking up were a red wire(+12V lead) and a black wire (negative lead). The DVD/mp3 player is in the center console, under the radio.

    Well this was making me mad because my battery was draining and I didn't know why.

    Fast forward to May and June of 2005. I finally had had it, so I took it to my mechanic to see if he could figure out what the heck was going on. So he disconnected positive battery terminal from the battery. He then had a test light that he hooked up to the negative terminal of the battery. He said "if this light lights up, you have something installed that is draining your battery."

    It lit up.

    So we pulled the fuse cover from the fuse box under the hood. Then we started methodically pulling fuses under the hood. The light did not go off until we pulled the 32 Amp or the 40 Amp (I forgot which one) from the ACC portion of the electrical system. So I knew it had to be something with the ACC portion.

    So I hooked up a simple ON/OFF rocker switch in line with the red (+12V lead) wire from the DVD player. That worked, until a week ago Sunday when my car would not start. I knew for a fact that there was no power going to the DVD player because the switch was not ON.

    I couldn't understand this. I don't have anything else connected to the ACC portion of the electrical system except neon lights and the remote turn-on lead from my amp. The lights are connected to the two wires from the cigarette lighter adapter, and I added a switch there too. They only come on when I turn them on.

    The amplifier that I have is hooked up to the 7.5 Amp fuse in the interior fuse block. I'm almost positive that it's the DVD player draining my battery.

    I took apart the dash to find out what wires the red and black wires were connected to from my DVD player. The red wire was connected to a yellow/red wire in the back of the navigation system, and the black wire from the DVD player was connected to another black wire.

    Can someone tell me what the yellow/red wire is for?

    I have a number of questions.

    1.) Is the new Accord (03-06) running on a ground-switched system instead of a postive 12V system like the Suburus?

    2.) If the navigation system is off, and the DVD player was hooked up to the back of the navigation system, then why is the DVD player draining my battery?

    3.) I know some systems are constently "hot", like the driving lights, interior lights, door lights (when the doors are open), etc. Could the DVD player be hooked up to the same electrical circuit, or even concept, as these other lights? In other words, in order to keep the DVD player from draining my battery, do I have to turn it off with the ON/OFF button on the DVD player?

    4.) If the key was not in the ignition, and it was still "Hot", why was my battery draining?

    5.)Does anyone know of a website with detailed pictures that would help me hook up those two wires (red and black) so that I don't fry the unit?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • I'm planning on buying 6 1/2's component speakers to replace the front speakers and tweeters. Could someone please give me step by step instructions as to getting to the front speakers, and especially the tweeters.
    EX: Do I pop off the door panels and the tweeter grill or remove the dash? I'm thorougly dummied.

    Anyone experience high pitched wind noise when driving at 70MPH plus? I'm getting them from inbetween the driver side and left passenger side. Its annoying.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    That was probably the worst $20 expenditure of your lifetime.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,472
    try college hills web site. They seem to have instructions for everything.

    I assume the Accord is like the Odyssey, and the cover to the tweeter pops off and you just pull it out of the dash and pop it off the wires. About the only thing stereo related on the darn van that is easy to replace!

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • Mkae sure your power is swirched, you said:

    "4.) If the key was not in the ignition, and it was still "Hot", why was my battery draining? "

    As you stated , you have a problem. You are saying the postive lead is "hot" whether or not the key is in the ignition. That is praobably yopu problem.

    The lead should be "hot" when the key is in the igition and eiother in accesory or normal run postion. When the key is out of the ignition or in the "off" postion the lead should be "cold" , i.e. no 12 volt potential, i.e. "not hot".

    S2000 MidCow
  • I have a 2001 accord and have had a really hard time finding great aftermarket performance parts for the f-series 4 cyl. engines. I have already done the exhaust, headers, and intake. What should I work on next and where do I find great performance parts? As I have not found any intake manifolds, throttle bodies, or fuel system parts.
  • i have a 96 vtec auto accord w/ mods and im thinking of seeling it to buy a 98 5sp prelude what you guys think of that or i could swap to 5sp for a little over a grand
    i need some opinons
  • I have a '99 LX, which I like a lot. But I'm wondering what I can do to make it handle more like, say, an Acura TSX.

    For starters, it has 15 inch steel wheels. Can I put 17 inch wheels on it without compromising anything? 16"? Would I gain much in terms of handling by going with larger wheels? Aluminum?

    Could I use low profile tires? What would I need to do to use low profile tires? Any downsides besides the greater probability of flats?

    Any recommendations for tires that do decently in the rain? (I already use snows in the winter in Boston so I don't need snow-competent tires.)

    What about stabilizer bars?

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks!

    David1776
  • I have an 06 Accord SE and I would like to tint the windows. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to start? I know I have two options: 1.) Use do it yourself tinting, or 2.) bring it to a professional shop to tint. If I were to do it myself, is there any particular brand/type of window tint I should go with? Is do it yourself window tinting hard? If i mess up the first application can I simply remove it and try again or is it a one chance hit or miss thing? If I go get it professionally done, anyone have any estimates as to how much it would cost? Lastly, is there anything I should know about the rear window, like will I cause any damage to the radio antenna or defroster if I try to tint it?
  • timshantimshan Posts: 4
    i just realized i post questions in the wrong section...

    Hi, I'm new to this website and also to cars themselves.. I'm here to be annoying and ask a question that I'm sure has been asked tons of times before, but I have no idea where to look.

    I'm getting a 2001 Honda Accord LX V6 in about 6 months...and well I want to start saving up for some rims...and that kind of stuff...

    Im wondering what should I get to:
    1. boost the horsepower and speed
    2. what can I do to the car to make it nicer looking, but not extremly rice rocket looking (excuse the slang, I love rice rockets but I cant drive them.)I also dont like it when the car is so low to the ground..
    3. Also what can I do to make the car drive really smoothly?
    Anyone know anything that can help?
    You can email me at TIMSHAN0876YAHOO.COM
    or
    AIM- SWTCHBLADELV

    Sorry if this quesiton has been asked before..Im just too curious..Thanks alot
  • steven5steven5 Posts: 17
    Take it to a professional shop. I would not attempt it on your own unless you know what you're doing. I've watched the pros do it on my car (04 Accord LX-V6 sedan)and others and it definitely takes some skill.

    I had the whole car (all four side windows and the back) done for $160.00 w/life time warranty. Should anything ever go wrong with the tint, I can take it back. This was from an independent shop I got a recomendation on from a friend. Turns out they contract out to do tinting for various dealerships around town.

    However, most shops will likely run you around $200.00 and will not give you the lifetime warranty.
  • msisengmsiseng Posts: 369
    Best thing to do with a larger exhaust is to have a shop make one custom for your car. Make sure they know what to do to install it. The commercial Cat Back, etc. are good, but not the best. I have done this with 5 cars and it never voided the warranty. Also, a cold air intake is the best way to get more hp.

    I have an '03 Infiniti G35 running at 310 hp on the dyno(from 260) by just installing an air intake, a crank pully, a new Y pipe and a new exhaust. I truly believe you could make a 244 hp Accord run at 280 with a minimal investment and still preserve the warranty.

    You can also get an exhaust from an old Acura and modify it to fit a Honda in many cases.
  • msisengmsiseng Posts: 369
    The Turanza's stink! I had them as stock on an Infiniti G35. Replaced them with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. Best tire I ever had. Will purchase these for the Accord. The Michelin was ranked #2 last year. I forgot what was ranked first, but they were always out of stock.
  • "mid cow" is right, start out small. Here are some more upgrades: optima battery, tires and rims, short shifter(for manual), ECU performance chip, brake upgrade, electrical(distributor, spark plugs, wires, etc.)

    Websites;

    www.importperformanceparts.net
    www.sportcompactonly.com
    www.andysautosport.com
    www.stillen.com
    www.wheelguyz.com :

    Good luck,

    clutchhappy95.
  • I have a 1995 honda accord with a stock 2.2 liter non-VTEC engine. (85mm bore) Would it be possible to replace it with a 2.7 liter VTEC engine made for an accord of the same year? (this engine has a 90mm bore) I would imagine it would, I'm just lookin' for a second piece of advice.
  • bzekebzeke Posts: 13
    If I exchange the 16” wheels and tires on my 2005 Accord LX-V6 to the 17” wheels and tires that are on the 2006 Accord V6 models, would I have to adjust the steering wheel stops to reduce the lock-to-lock wheel turns to 2.75? Or was this done on the 2006 models for another reason, such as to accommodate the Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) system? The lock-to-lock wheel turns for my car is spec’ed at 2.94. Also note that 17” wheels with P215/50 R17 tires are a listed option for the 2005 Accords with 16” wheels. Has Honda instructed dealers to make this adjustment after the larger size wheels have been installed? I believe that both the 16” and 17” Honda wheels are 6 1/2” wide with a +55mm offset. Thanks. Any help would be appreciated.
  • An interesting question in that VSA monitors steering wheel angle along with other live driving data (such as wheel speed, yaw rate, throttle position, etc.) to decide whether electronic intervention is needed.

    http://4wheeldrive.about.com/cs/rollovers/a/aa090103a.htm

    Question is, how does the lock-to-lock spec relate to VSA, and can/should it be modified ?

    Based on the discussion below, there appears to be no relationship to speak of, and modifying it would have two effects: 1) reducing it - the issue at hand - will also reduce your turning radius, and 2) increasing it may cause the tire/rim to come in contact with underbody parts.

    http://www.pro-touring.com/tech/steeroids/steeroids_page_1.htm

    It would appear, on the other hand, that steering ratio, the speed by which one turns the car relative to actual steering wheel turns, is more relevant.

    Bottom line on VSA and lock-to-lock: steering ratio is the relevant issue, and something that's more involved (gearing, etc.) to modify. Honda reduced its 2006 lock-to-lock but probably also changed steering ratio.

    On tire sizes, 205/60/16 versus 215/50/17 have these rotation/mile numbers: 813 versus 816 per tirerack.com. A virtual wash especially with inflation variations. The 17s can be swapped with the 16s, as I have with my 03 V6 coupe, with no effect on TSC operation. Probably none on VSA as well.
  • Hi all,

    After going from a VW to a Honda, I find the lighting of the Reverse lights in the tail to be lacking. I'm used to my taillights actually lighting up obstacles behind me so I can see them at night.
    Do you think it is possible/wise to get brighter bulbs for reverse? Any recommendations?

    Many thanks in advance.
  • msisengmsiseng Posts: 369
    Well,

    It can work, but why would you want to do this to a car that is 11 years old? The cost would be tremendous unless you have a lift, the time and the tools. You may also incur costs changing crank pullys, belts and hoses as I am sure they are not the same sizes. Time will be spent ordering parts you never thought you would need such as clips and clamps. I think that for a little more money you can have a new Civic that is more powerful.

    We used to swap 1996 Impala engines with Corvette LT1 engines and it always cost more (at least 20%) than we anticipated due to different size peripherals like the ones mentioned above. I know they are not rice rockets, but the issues experienced are going to be the same with any engine.

    On the other hand if you have the time and the money then why not? It is possible. Let us know what you decide to do as your project can become most interesting.
  • msisengmsiseng Posts: 369
    15" to 17" is a far reach and could be probmenatic for many reasons. 16" would work better and you can use low profile tires on alloy wheels. You would gain superior handling (basic physics), but not that much to need stabilizer bars. If your engine is pushing 260hp, torque is around 240 and you take a lot of fast turns, then maybe. Save your money.

    I recommend Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on alloy wheels. They are medium profile and still look great. They do well on wet (rain only) and dry pavement. Not too many negatives except cost and a high theft rate. They will also do well with all the potholes in Boston. Low profile will pop more easily on bad city streets.

    A set of tires and wheels should be in the $1,100 - $1,300 range if you buy "discontinued" wheels. Let's face it, do they look that much different from "current" wheels?
  • I'm about ready to get a new vehicle and while I abhore trucks the increased cargo room to haul stuff around would be nice. If I were to get a Honda Accord does anyone know if I could get a hitch installed so I could tow stuff around (maybe a quad?). Would I have to get a V6?
  • midnightcowboymidnightcowboy Posts: 1,978
    You can install a class I hitch. If you are going to haul the V6 would probably be better with only a 10% mpg penalty. But the 4 would work also!
  • oldmansioldmansi Posts: 40
    I have a 06 Accord ex v6 coupe and want to lower it slightly to improve looks as wheel well gap is excessive but dont want to end up with a rough ride and want to maintain OE shocks. I am thinking of Eibach pro kits or Tein H tech which both indicate a mild drop. Does anyone have experience with either of these two? Looking for anyone with 06 models or even 05 models as 06 models are only slightly heavier than 05 models so most likely use the same spring from both companies...thanks in advance.
  • you could look in to the HFP kit. It's suppose to lower the car by about an inch and is oem performance. You can find it on the college Hills honda site for 625+S/H. It looks like it replaces the stock shocks and springs, and is bolt on.
  • oldmansioldmansi Posts: 40
    Thanks for info. I will check out the HFP kit at College Hills Honda....
  • appolo777appolo777 Posts: 2
    Try full Tein kits such as Basic or Super Street. I think V6 too heavy and too powerful for cheap solution.
    Not too bad selection here.
  • oldmansioldmansi Posts: 40
    Thanks for info on Teins full kits. May have to go that route as Eibach does not make pro kits for the 2006 V6 Coupe or sedan as yet. On their website they have a list of cars that they are looking for to use as engineering samples to make the pro kits and the 2006 Accord is one of them. Only other good name brand would be Comptech sport springs , guess they are using the same ones as used on the 2005 model. HFP would also be another option. The car has a firm ride stock, so I just want a slight drop to take away some of the wheel well gap. :shades:
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