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Honda Accord Modifications

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  • kaioteskaiotes Posts: 3
    my friend tried to use an inverter on my cig lighter and i think it blew a fuse or two as my radio/cd player and whatever plugs into the cigarette lighter will no longer work. no power whatsoever

    where would the fuse be located?
    By the driver's side panel or under the hood?
    is there a map somewhere online?
    i have a 98 accord lx v6

    thanks
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    Wish I could help. I am contemplating an '06 Accord EX V6 MT purchase.
    It would seem power is not a problem on this car, but more crisp handling would be nice.
    Someone suggested I spend another 10K and get a TL. I'd rather stay with an Accord (have lots of other things I can do with 10K) and go with maybe $1500 max on suspension.
    I understand the rear sway bar is on the wimpy side and something at least 17mm is recommended. That is the stock bar on the TL BTW.
    Noticeably less understeer under pressure and less sway as well. The Comptech bar is 19mm.
    I don't see a whole lot of fun stuff available. From the CSi forums folks found replacing the stock strut bar from Honda with a Comptech bar made a noticeable improvement.
    Who would a thought just a different strut bar would be that much better. (could be part of the weight saving campaign most auto mfrs. contend with).
    The spring/shock kits mentioned earlier in this thread sound interesting and cost effective for when they are available for the later Accords.
    Be interested in hearing from fellow owners of 05 and 06 V6 coupes and their thoughts.
    I plan to keep the stock air filter until either Amsoil or AEM build a panel filter that uses synthetic media instead of the oil wetted types (K&N and TrueFlow).
    Interesting thread.. enjoy!
  • Hello,

    I was wondering if anyone here has ever tried or knows anyone who has tried doing an HID conversion on a seventh gen accord? I've looked at a lot of different kits and I've seen the price range from 185 dollars to like 400 dollars...I'm not quite sure why the price difference is so large as they all seem to have the same features, same warranties, and all necessary parts included. What is the main difference between these kits? Why are some so expensive but others relatively affordable? I also read on another forum that doing an HID conversion using the existing halogen housing is illegal as of 2004 because the halogen housings dont have the proper projectors so they can blind other drivers on the road. After reading that, I was wondering if there would be a legal way of doing it, like have a specially designed housing that works properly with HID bulbs but still fits the same way the OEM housing does. I certainly don't want to do anything illegal or cause safety hazards for other drivers. Anyone have any suggestions or advice?
  • For HID's you're suppose to have atleast some form of cut offs so that the light doesn't go everywhere (I'm not sure of specific laws in each state). HID specific projectors do this, by limiting the light and pointing them in a specific direction. From what a friend told me, HID kit's aren't sold in stores, because the state can't regulated whether or no a consummer has these projectors/cut off's installed however, I have seen kits sold at the acura dealers in my area. Online retailers such as xenon depot claim that there kits will fit in standard housings and reproduce the same light pattern without shooting light everywhere, but I havn't tried there kits myself(I plan too though). Basically, if you really want to do HID's right, it should cost around 500 for the kit, and about 400-500 for the projectors housings. There's no cheap way to get around it. If you want HID's done legally and work the way they should, you got to spend the money. You can always try and build your own housing, but that could be very involing.
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    I have a set of after-markets on my MDX. Let me say first of all, they lay out a good quality light on the road. You can see better with them. They appear to have less holes in the light pattern that you find with filament lamps. (you don't see the shadow of the filament as you do in conventional lamps).
    And they seem to project further. I think they are simply brighter in the same light field.

    I don't have projection lamps, so cutoff is more critical.
    I found the top cutoff basically equal to the stock, but to be on the safe side lowered the lamps a skosh more. With the amount of light they put out, the compromise was negligible.
    I rarely get flashed by anyone driving towards me. I've been flashed at even with filament bulbs that were correctly aligned.
    But they do bother people more. The blue spectrum has been found to be more irriatating. There are HIDs close to 4300K that are more pure white. And probably a wiser choice. But too many install HIDs as a 'toy' and enjoy the blue and almost purple tints, which in reality reduce the amount of light.
    All systems are basically the same. They throw around names like Philips ballasts, and all ballasts work the same anyway. And Philips does not endorse aftermarket HID systems.
    Only the Sylvania Xenarc are legal systems. Right now, they only make retro kits for full size GM and Ford trucks. They do sell legal HID driving lights, meant to be mounted below the bumper. An option, quite honestly I might pursue with my next vehicle purchase.
    If I were to do it again, I don't think I would bother with the after-market jobs. If you don't have factory HID, keep in mind that projector lamps even with conventional bulbs work better than anything to date that is not HID.
    And as far as aftermarket bulbs, avoid blue tints, etc. Again, all they do is reduce light output. Sylvania Silverstars and the new GE Nighthawks are excellent choices for bulbs that give out just a little more light and look better than the slightly yellow stock bulbs.
    Now you know all I know, and in a short time will undoubtedly know a lot more.
  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    Does anyone know if there are any well established companies that can repaint cars (such as the Accord) at a low, but fair price and does a really good job?
  • about the car lowering thing.
    This is kinda Rice but it can work, and you dont have as much of the camber issue.
    Go to home depot and ask them for.. I forget what its called
    but tell them its like, bendable metal tape with holes in it.
    Okay, so buy a roll of that and then get a bunch of your friends to come over and stand on your car corner.
    your springs will compress progressibely so two coils will compress all the way before the rest start to compress.
    Once you have them touching take an [non-permissible content removed] load of the metal stuff and wrap it around the spring in like three locations and then get a bolt and a nut and stick it into the hole and bolt it.
    tell them to get off one at a time and see if it holds.
    Its pretty strong stuff so it should.
    Worked for my old Civic.
    Repeat for all four sides.
    If its still not low enough compress another wrung on the coil.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Posts: 268
    Since finding good body/paint work is a local thing, you would probably get a better response by telling us your location.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,312
    I think you are talking about plumber's tape; used for hanging pipes down in the crawl space so they won't bang around when you turn the hose on.

    Handy to have around for projects, but I would have guessed that it was too light duty to keep the springs compressed. (I don't think water pipes get stressed like a suspension).

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    Whitecloud, I live in Birmingham, Alabama. I don't think anybody that posted messages live even close to this state. What I am asking is if there is some nationwide repainting shop. A company such as Best Buy, Circuit City, etc.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Posts: 268
    You might be suprised. Birmingham is a pretty big place, right? Anyway, I wouldn't avoid the local places with good reps. I have heard that MAACO does a good job and I know they have different price levels and they are national.
  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    Never heard of MAACO, but thanks! :D
  • yah I thought it was called plumbers tape but last time i went to buy it i told them i wanted that and they gave me like, waterproof tape.
    Well, It is fairly light weight.
    But its tensile just as a spring is, which is exactly what you want.
    You can bend it side to side, but actually stretching cold metal is an incredibly difficult task.
    If it breaks theres not really anything you have to worry about anyway. It'll just fall down and probably get run over by someone someday.
    you'd just notice your car suddenly got higher in one corner, so i guess in the snow that might suck.
  • yah the thing is
    the brightest light will always be pure white
    Not neccesarily in nature for example
    The sun is probably the brightest thing we know and its only Pure white 4100-4300k for five or six hours a day.
    The rest of the time it fluctuates.
    Also, after something like 5000k they have to seriously Tint the bulb to achieve the desired color.
    This makes the bulbs less bright.
    Your taillights have a red lense, if you have a red bulb and a white bulb and you put one in each side you'll notice the red bulb to be brighter than the white bulb.
    The red lense filters and light but red light so the white light is reduced and the red spectrum shines through.
    So unless you ACTUALLY have an HID kit thats creating 7000k color temperature without tinting the bulb then your losing serious brightness. which isnt the point of HID
  • elozanoelozano Posts: 2
    If I install a AEM V2 intake on my 01 Accord V6 will I save any gas?? If so, how much?? What about Power, How much hp should I expect??
  • in theory yes you'll save gas.
    You get more horsepower so you essentially dont have to drive as hard to make the same speed and acceleration as you were before.
    That only works to a certain extent, after a while the only way to make more horsepower is with more gas.
  • oldmansioldmansi Posts: 40
    I have had intakes on 3 cars in the past. Two were short ram (warm air) and 1 cold air intake and I experinced no better gas mileage with them. Also, HP and torque will vary some among brands but in most cases its minimal. Maybe 4 to 6 hp increase at max rpm. Its over rated if you ask me but its not alot of $$$ either. :shades:
  • elozanoelozano Posts: 2
    Wich one is better?? Wich makes more power? Why the difference in Prices, Comptech´s is $1,249 while Dc´s is $387?? Is there a website where I can compare Dyno results???
  • gmerariugmerariu Posts: 1
    I installed a aem v2 on my 2000 4 cyl and I'm saving about 15-20% (when driving normally). When pushing the rev close to the 6000RPM all the time, savings are 5%.

    Note that I also installed a DC sports header 4-2-1 and a greedy evo2 catback...
  • kaioteskaiotes Posts: 3
    aem v2 on 98 v6 accord lx.
    i don't notice much diff in any condition, 5% at the very most.
  • gatrhumpygatrhumpy Posts: 126
    OK, so I took out the damn Audiobahn DVD player, and I have not had a drained battery since. Audiobahn is crap!
  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    I have a 06 Accord VP 4 door. 15 inch steel wheels are standard. Is it possible to change to 16 inch alloy wheels such as the ones on the LX Special Edition? I read in the manual that making modifications such as this can affect suspension and ABS.
  • Sure, you could go as large as 17" before it actually effects the ride. You will be adding more rolling mass, however, but it shouldn't be a problem.
  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    another person, would after market alloy wheels work or do I have to buy from Honda?
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,072
    Yes, you can go aftermarket, but be careful what you get. SOme of them aren't made that well, they can be heavy, and you need to make sure they have the correct offset.

    IMO, stick with the OEM wheels if you can. They will bolt right on, fit correctly, and even look like they belong on the car.

    They are probably way overpirced from the dealer, so see if you can find a set of take-offs from soemone that bought a new car and upgraded. You can save a ton of money that way.

    If you don't want to go all the way up to a 17" (from the coupe or V6), the 16" EX wheels will work nicely, and are probably easier (and cheaper) to find.

    Also remember that they will probably come with the tires on them. If you buy aftermarket, you also have to get new tires.

    And, keep your original steelies. If you live in snow country, they will work nicely with snow tires, especially if you end up with 17" wheels.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (mine)

  • I completely agree. Aftermarket is cheaper and you can find so really good deals out there (I got a set of 16" kazara's and goodyear tripletreds for 1K with lifetime tire repairs/rotation on my 93 camry). In terms of aftermarket designs, most are for show, so unless you really want to stand out, I'd try and find oem's. I'm waiting for my oem tires on my accord to wear out before I get a new set of wheels, just because I'll be going to 17" from the 15" LX wheels, and it seems like a waste of a perfectly good set of tires
  • vhreb123vhreb123 Posts: 83
    What does "OEM" exactly stand for and where and how much can someone get them for?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,312
    OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer - basically any part of the car that's usually made by a subcontractor. The twist with tires is that Honda may buy tires from different manufacturers for the Accord, so the OEM tires on yours may be a different brand or model from another persons.

    The other twist is that people claim that OEM products may not be the same quality as the item you can buy aftermarket, even though the part or the tire has the same number. So you may hate or love the tires that came on the new car but replacement tires of the same brand and model may not perform the same.

    Some people think it's better to buy OEM replacement parts for things like shocks, since they figure that the car engineers specified specific qualities for the shocks while the franchise outfits or auto parts companies may make a generic shock to fit lots of cars.

    More than you asked about...and I'm sure there's lots of other twists to the definition!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • hello all i have a 90 accord with the 2.2 and all i have done is a 4-2-1 header high flow cat. 2 1/4 pipe back to the after market muffler cold air intake all the way down in too the fender and cut out the front bumper to let more air in and a front strut brace gas mileage did not change with the exh. open but when i put in the bafel i lost about 5 mpg it is a auto trans and has 16" rims as far as putting on a turbo they are nice and add lot of power but to much money and too many things that has to be changed out for it too a daily driver in my book but for race or weekends would be great IF you have the money too dump in to it have pics of my accord for anyone that wants too see them

    Dan
  • to anyone who can answer this:

    I have a 97 LX 5sp Man, and I want to get some more power, so I can accelerate faster. At this point I cannot afford a whole lot, maybe $300. If I went with a new intake system, what would one suggest? I have looked at the AEM systems, and I would like to know the difference between the regular AEM cold air intake vs. the short ram vs. the V2.

    thanks for your help.

    ND
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