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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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Comments

  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    A friend of mine recently had a similar problem on his Honda. It would start up, but die off after just a second or so, especially on cold days. The tech at the dealership even noted that they could only recreate the problem on cold mornings. It turned out to be the ignition coil in tandem with a corroded wire. The wire was some kind of power supply wire to the ignition coil/igniter. I suggest you check your coil with a ohm meter. The primary resistance (between the two holes where the connector plugs in) should be .36 to .55 ohms. The secondary resistance: put one probe to the positive terminal where the connector plugs into the coil, and the other probe should go to the high tension terminal, AKA the port where the distributor wire plugs in. It should read 9.0 to 15.4 K ohms. If all that is normal, then you'll have to find some more statistics online to know what ohms should read on the wires supplying power to the coil and igniter.
  • Try change the filter that might do the trick.
  • The temp gage. It reads very low heat even after wormed up. I changed out the heat sensor and still is the same. Checked the gage with a short and works like a champ and goes all the way to hot. What else could be wrong?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Does it seem like there's no heat in the engine? After driving it for a few minutes are you actually able to touch the valve cover(s) and feel very little heat? If it seems that the engine is actually not heating up, you should probably check you thermostat. It doesn't happen very often, but they can become stuck open sometimes, and it won't allow your engine to achieve full operating temperature. Also, listen to see if you hear the "whirring" of the fan while you drive, especially if you've been on the freeway, and then back to a stop. If it seems that the fan is continuously pulling air, your fan clutch may have locked up, and that could be keeping the temperature down.
  • The temp of the engine seems hot but wont register on gage.Just a little bit like it is running cold.
  • My 95 toyota pickup 5sp manual 160K miles won't start. Cleaned battery terminals, not the starter. No click when you turn key. Checked Neutral switch from clutch pedal, is good. Please help!
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Did you check your fuses? Also could be the starter solenoid.
  • tony1177tony1177 Posts: 4
    ok in short. My engine has 90,000 on it new head gasket, egr valve, fuel filter, i put a crawler cam in it, and so on. It runs rough and was told it isnt the cam. At idle its alittle rough. I also noticed that after a half tank of gas once on highway if im just kinda idling along i get a check engine light with 72 code. Only after half tank. The code is multiple items. The only thing i can think of is vaccum hoses off. maybe. anything ill help
  • yes checked the fuses, but does anyone know how to check the relay
  • I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up. 4 wd, 5 speed. We have a replacement gas tank but no sending unit. We can't seem to locate one. Does anyone know if a 4 Runner part might work? Any suggestions? :sick:
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up 4x4 4cyl, The vehicle keeps giving me a trouble code # 71 I have replaced and cleaned everything thing listed in the manual, and i am still receiving the code, what else could be the problem?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Just makin' sure...

    Did you test the EGR temp. sensor? Make sure to plug it back in securely?

    Did you vacuum/electric test the VSV? Test the VSV for ground to itself?

    Test for any vacuum leaks? Test the EGR itself to make sure the vacuum can open it?

    Did you look inside the passageway inside the head to make sure it's not clogged?

    Lastly... Did you make sure to reset the computer, pull the EFI fuse?

    Just want to rule out the easily overlooked...
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    I have done everthing listed except for checking for vacuum leaks, and testing the VSV.

    What is the VSV, and how exactly do i test it?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    OK, that's gonna take some research on my part to make sure I tell you everything correctly. I'll have to get back to you on all the info.

    I'm assuming since you have a code 71 that you have a California emission truck, right?

    In the mean time, do a Google search for 1993 toyota pickup factory service manual. Follow the links and you should find one online that you can use for free.

    You're also probably going to need to test the EGR vacuum modulator, which is the saucer shaped thing next to the EGR.

    The VSV's are the small block shaped things on top of the valve cover that have vacuum lines and wire harness plugs running to them. The allow the computer to manipulate the engine by opening/closing vacuum valves to control different things. On a CA truck, this includes the EGR. It also has them for controlling the idle up for A/C, and for fuel cut off RPM. If I remember correctly, there are 2 VSV's for the EGR on a CA truck. Have to get back to you for that one.

    Start with looking for the manual, I'll try to post up tonight the rest of the info.
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    Ye the truck is a california model, and i have also installed a new EGR vacuum modulator unit.

    I will certainly look into it deeper, that just may be my problem.

    Thanks,
  • toyman812toyman812 Posts: 2
    open the relay and try to start it if the relay works you will see it click
  • toyman812toyman812 Posts: 2
    i have a lot of toyota parts 83 93 90 88 if anyone is needing anything let me know maybe i'll have what you need
  • jtill43jtill43 Posts: 4
    I am looking for a speedo cable for a 1990 toyota pickup base model, automatic trans four wheel drive, v-6 3.0L, can you help me out? And would you be able to ship it to me in Anchorage Alaska?
  • jtill43jtill43 Posts: 4
    My pickup when turned hard clicks sound like metal on metal contact, buddy of mine said it is common for toyota's Is it CV joints? steering? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Yup, if you're turning the wheel all the way to lock, as in making a U-turn, and you hear a clicking or a sound like someone's beating under the front end with a ball pien hammer, then a likely culprit is the CV axles.
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