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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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  • I have a 1992 4x4 pickup, in four years of operation the check engine light came on. I had just changed all of the oils and filter in preperation for Winter. After a couple of miles the light came on. Stopped and checked fluids, temp etc. to no avail ( even checked for a loose cap on the fuel fill)...Is there a reset?? Would appreciate any info...Thanks
  • I have a 1993 4X4 4 cyl. with the 22R engine. Recently the engine has started to overheat for no apparent reason. I have replaced the thermostat. After replacing the thermostat it seemed to take care of it for a while but the problem returned. I have tried running it with the thermostat removed to continuously keep water running through the block but that won't even keep it cool. I have flushed the radiator as well as replaced the cap. Also when it overheats I have no heat. Maybe something with the heater core??? The water pump seems to be working fine and I am not leaking any fluid anywhere. I am really at a loss as to what it could be. ANY help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • have you taken it in to have the diagnostic run on it? you can have that done for free at auto zone or advance.
  • kiijokiijo Posts: 1
    I've got a problem with my steering. Most of the time there is no problem, but at certain speeds (~35-40mph) I start to get pretty harsh shaking in my steering wheel. I've asked around a little bit and someone suggested that it might be a problem with the "shim dampener", is there such a thing? If so, is this the problem, and what needs to be done to get it fixed. Thanks!
  • It sounds to me like the fuel filter is clogged. I would change it, it is located on the passenger side on the engie block. 2 12mm bolts hold it on.
  • should be on the efi side of the block 2 12mm bolts hold it in. (hard job)
  • any luck on repairing your pickup? I'm having similar problems. Is the fuel pump relay in the box next to the battery? Mine was in a wreck so some of the parts are damaged or missing on the right side fender area. Let me know.
    outlaw68
  • did you ever find the problem on your pickup? let me know. I think i may have the same problem. Thanks,
    outlaw68
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there kiijo,
    If you haven't already, try swapping your two front tires from one side to the other. But if the problem is still there you will have at least ruled out the tires. There is a shock absorber called a steering dampener, and if that is blown out it usually has an oily residue around the external seal where the shock piston shaft comes out. and can sometimes cause excessive steering wheel vibration. The steering dampener is connected to the frame on one end and the steering center link at the other. You might have to remove your skid plate to access this component more easily.
    Hope this helps, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there flk,
    If your losing oil and coolant but cannot find any leaks, your best bet is to get what is called a leak-down test. It's like a compression test but instead of compression gauge you hook up a kit that comes w/ leak gauge and a compressed air supply adapter, and a hose that threads into the spark plug holes just like a compression tester. For example: when the air is hooked up it pressurizes the cylinder in question via the spark plug hole, if the needle on the gauge is showing that the cylinder is not holding spec pressure you then remove the oil fill cap and listen for a hissing noise which in that case would mean that there is to much blow-by at the pistion rings and is coming out of the oil cap. or if you hear a hissing noise coming out of the exhaust when you put your ear up to the end of the tail pipe that would indicate an exhaust valve is either bent or has been burnt. sometimes you can't always hear the hissing noise coming out of the exhaust so you can just hold a cigarette close to the opening of the tail pipe to see the smoke being blown away. or if you hear the hissing noise coming out the carb or throttle body that would indicate a bent or burnt intake valve. But in your case you might be dealing w/ a small internal leak in your head gasket and for that you would remove your radiator cap and look for bubbles or traces of oil contamination in your coolant. Trust me, I've seen vehicles that run great with blown head gaskets so just because yours runs fine and might not be smoking doesn't mean you have a good head gasket. Before doing all of that, you can remove your thermistat and see if it runs cooler that way, but don't leave it out for good, its just a diagnostic step. I would recommend going to a reputable shop or at least a shop w/ a chain of stores rather than independant ones, or just go the dealer and get an estimate for a leak-down test.
    Hope I could help, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey everybody,
    My brother has a 1992 Toyota pick-up 5-speed manual trans 4x4 extra cab w/ the stock 3.0L V-6 and wants to put a 3.4L V-6 in instead. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what mods if any, we would need to do for this swap. ie: Fuel pump, motor mounts, trans mission or just the bell housing, fuel lines, throttle & cruise control cables, ect... Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Also I am a Hummer (AM Gerneral), GM, Ford, and Subaru certified Technician and if anyone has any questions that I can help you w/ in return for helping me, I would have no problem giving them a try. And I myself own a 1992 Toyota pick-up 4x4 standard cab 5-speed manual trans.
    I thank you for your time and any comments you can donate.
    TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    If a fuel filter does not fix this problem you might want to vacuum test your EGR valve. I have seen vehicles run great for a few seconds and just die due to this problem. But if your only having problems when it's warm out that could either be your Cold Start Injector, or your coolant temperature sensor which is located on your intake manifold. During start up your ECM (depending on ambient air temperature) will dump more fuel due to the colder dencer air, but if your sensor is malfunctioning it will do this same thing even when it is warmer out causing the vehicle to stall due to excessive fuel delivery. And also, because I didn't want to go through changing my fuel filter like that again and more importantly, I didn't want my fuel getting that hot considering that it was right up against the hot engine block I relocated it to the inside right front fender well, there is plenty of fuel line to accomodate this change in location and I haven't had a problem since.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey man,
    I am a technician myself, and I have a friend who had his motor rebuilt by an independent shop and the same type of thing happened. My friend took the guy to small claims court and won all of his money back. He won because he went to a reputable shop in which they had lots of chains around the country, possibly a dealer. He asked around if any technicians could be a professonal witness to his case, and he found someone who would. The technician also said that he would do the work for the same price and he put in a factory crate motor. I would defenitly take this guy to court, I mean come on, he royally ripped you off w/ shotty workmanship. You deserve to at least get your money back. My friend signed a paper saying there were no warrentees, but that didn't stand up in court at all, because if your running a business you have to produce a product that satisfies the customer, but if all your doing is taking peoples money and potentially putting the customers life in danger due to there shotty work, thats against the law.
    You go get that grease monkey, and put him back in his cage w/ no bananas for a year. Good luck, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    My buddy had the same problem in his truck. We changed the fluid and replaced the clutch and the problem went away. When the clutch starts to go out it makes it harder for the syncros for the different gears to engage properly and at times only engage halfway. So it will feel like it's in gear but will pop out all of a sudden. My first step to take is to change the fluid in the trans, then make sure you have plenty of DOT 3 brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder which is the small reservoir next to the the brake master cylinder. But even if its full or not I would recommend bleeding the clutch fluid system just to be safe. Then to replace the clutch, a good clutch kit will run you about $120 and should come w/ a flywheel, clutch disc,pressure plate, clutch release bearing(throw-out bearing), and the clutch alignment tool. And as a last resort, replace the transmission. All of these steps are obviously starting from the cheapest fix to the most expensive. So, good luck, and I hope I could help. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey Mobi,
    Looks like your on the right track w/ the EGR and O2 sensors, but don't rule out your cold start injector or coolant temp sensor either. I'm a tech, and it sounds like you know what your doing, so I'll just share a story w/ similar symptoms due to the fact that I won't have to explain anything. My wifes car had the same symptoms as yours you know idleing rough, coughing, sputtering, etc. I hooked it up to a scan tool at work and it had a DTC in it's history for a coolant temp sensor out of range but no check engine light. So I went into data display when I had it running and found that when the system was in closed loop status the coolant temp sensor was reading -30 F below zero and was just dumping the fuel in by the truck loads but you couldn't smell any excess fuel. So I hope this helps you in any way possible, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I'm a tech and I have rebuilt my own 1992 Toyota pick-up 4x4 standard cab 5-speed manual trans., and I have rebuilt 20R motors as well for my friend as side jobs and I know these people and see them on a weekly basis. The first 22RE I rebuilt was six year ago and my own was 3 1/2 years ago and neither myself or my friends have had any problems w/ driveability issues. and also the only aluminum components on the 22RE's are the valve cover, front timing cover, and the cylinder head, the block is solid cast iron and the oil pan is molded steel. I'm not nockin your friend who worked for Toyota but who ever told him that these engines never run as well after rebuilding them didn't know what they were talking about. All you have to do is use a ridge-reamer if necessary depending on the mileage, bore and hone the cylinders to .030" of an inch larger, replace the pistons and rings w/ .030" sized ones, mill the engine block deck, mill the cylinder head wether it's warped or not, have the crank shaft turned, install a new cam and all new timing components, have the rocker arm tappet faces resurfaced and hard faced, have the valves and valve seats reground or just lapped depending on pitting severity, replace all necessary bearings (crank rod and main,cam,etc) and if your a real stickler for perfection you'll have the crank mains align bored.
    I'm not trying to be a pain, I just hate seeing people getting screwed w/ shotty workmanship, it's just not cool. And also a good engine rebuilder can rebuild an engine in about a week, not five. It shouldn't matter how busy they say they are. If they are that busy they should be looking out for your interests and tell you that it will take longer. I hope this helps in any way possible. Hell, maybe you can take the guy to small claims court, get your money back. Then you can print this out as a rebuild list and have it done the right way. The same thing happened to my best friend six years ago. He took the guy to court, got his money back and I rebuilt his motor for him. That was the same first 22RE that I ever rebuilt. Good luck. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I'm a technician myself, and you do not have to reset anything, my friend who is also a technician just replaced his a couple of months ago and he hasn't had any problems. Your actually supposed to replace your O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Hope this helps you. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    The 3.0L V-6 fits in perfectly w/ no extra mods. But I my self am trying to find out if if I can swap the 3.0 w/ the 3.4. I'm not sure how much it would cost because me and my brother did the labor for a good friend and I know there are V-6 engines for sale on ebay. So you could start there. Hope this helps you in any way. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey Seastuff,
    It's probably an unrelated problem, due to the fact that none of the fluid levels, being either too high or too low can cause the check engine light to come on. the cooling system doesn't have a light because it has the gauge, the engine oil either has a gauge or the low oil light, and the trans, transfer case, front and rear diffs don't have fluid level sensors. There is no light for the fuel system or A/C refrigerant either. It's smart of you to check the fuel filler cap because most people don't even realize that could cause that problem. The first thing that I would check would be all of you evaporative emissions hoses at your charcoal canister to make sure that they are all connected and that they aren't starting to crack. Don't forget about the other ends of those hoses at the fuel tank either because most people overlook those. Next check all of your vacuum lines at your intake manifold. And what ever you do, do not turn or twist those little breather/drum looking things mounted to the plates on top of your valve cover w/ the different colored ends, those are vacuum solenoids and they have a specific factory setting. after that you should vacuum test you EGR valve because if that is not working right it can cause your engine to run either too rich or too lean and that can take out your O2 sensors, and that most definitly will trip the check engine light. I hope that this information will be helpfull in your diagnosis of your check engine light. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey isaacorps,
    First off I have to say thank you for adding in that little bit about how you don't have any heat. Most people over look that issue and write it off as something unrelated. When the coolant moves through the engine block the only way it can get from one side to the other is through the heater core, I know it souns like a bad idea but it's the only way to get adequet flow through the core. Also, I know you said that the water pump seems to be working fine, and it most likely is, that's because there is an actual method to these engineers' madness. If you have ever seen the inside of a water pump you will remember seeing that there is about an 8th inch gap between the impellor blades and the actual housing, that makes these pumps a non positive displacement pump. They do this for two reasons: 1) precisley the reason your having, because the pump has enough clearence around the impellor blades that it won't cause excess pressure in the system and cause your heater core to explode all over your feet. 2) If it was a positive displacement pump they would have to engineer the entire system w/ high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings and whole shabang. They would also have to take into acount the dramatic rise in tempereture. I also know that you said that you had flushed the cooling system, and I applaud you sir. But your probably only dealing w/ a heater core that is almost completely plugged but still has enough flow to taunt you with false hope. Hope that this will be helpfull in your diagnosis. TECH007
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