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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues



  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Try looking into the EGR system, the coolant temp sensor, and it its EFI, look into the cold start injector. These are the most common problems. Hope this helps. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Me again. If you do ever have a starter problem you can usually rebuild them your self for way cheaper than if you bought a new or reman one.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    If the EFI fuse is not blown as Austin had stated. You might want to check to see if your fuel pump relay is working or not, a super easy check is to see if there are any other relays in the fuse box or that you can see around there and just do a quick swap to see if the truck fires up or not, that way you can rule out the fuel pump relay. Just make sure that the other relay isn't for another important system like the ignition system. If that doesn't work I would try testing the fuel pump itselt. You can find testing procedures in the repair manuals like Haynes or Chilton. And concidering that it runs when you spray starter fluid in it obviously rules out the ignition system, just go easy w/ that stuff. I've seen first hand what that stuff can do, and it does melt holes in your pistions w/ excessive use. I hope this info helps. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    You might want to do a valve adjustment, thats basically the diesels version of a tune-up. You can adjust the valves using the valve overlap method. You can go online and find repair manual online for pretty cheap and they will tell you how to adjust the valves. It's different from adjusting a gas engines valves. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Unfortunately w/ out pulling the transmission it's going to be hard to tell what exactly the problem is. You said that when you push in the clutch that it disengaged the trans, which means that you can start the truck w/ the clutch pushed in because if it won't come out of fourth gear the truck will learch forward if you have the clutch start cancel button pushed in. I am a tech and have worked on my fare share of toyotas because pretty much all of my friends and family have pick-ups including myself. I would pull the tranny, See if there is top plate that you can remove where the shift lever goes in and look for any broken, bent, or binding components such as, bent or broken shifter forks, missing shifter fork shaft roll pins, missing shifter fork to syncro poly eurethane guides, bound or broken 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear syncros. But first, drain the fluid into fast food cup and check for matal shavings or chunks. If the fluid has a gold matalic sheen to it, it is probably a syncro or a bushing. But any other metal shavings or small chunks could be anything else. If the fluid is any other color than amber or almost clear, try refilling it and working it free. Possibly have someone tow you around a parking lot while holding the clutch in and releasing it and at the same time jerking on the shifter. That could be enough to break it free. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hi, me again,
    I almost forgot to tell you, that is if your truck is fuel injected, try not to start it excessively, due the fact that the injectors cycle every time you turn the ignition from off to start and if you don't have an EFI problem you could fill your cylinders up w/ fuel and hydrolock your motor. I know it sounds rediculous but I've seen it happen, so be careful. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I would try disconnecting the battery cables from the battery, because even though they might look ok they probably have gummy waxy type substance that has built up during that year of sitting. Trust me, I've gone through this same probem on my Dad's 1980, my 1992, and my brother's 1992 pick-ups. All you have to do is take a small thin bladed pocket knife like a swiss army w/ the tooth pick and tweezers. Not a battery terminal cleaning tool because those just move this stuff around and doesn't get it all off. When you use the pocket knife on the cable end you will want to scrape the blade sideways across the surface so you don't carve grooves into the soft metal. But on the post itself just scrape front the bottom up all the way around the posts. This way you will have two mirror finished surfaces to mate up against which will also give you the maximum surface area of contact. Also the long sit cold climate could have drained the battery of its charge, so you could put a jump box, a battery charger, or just get a jump start from someone w/ cables to see if that would be enough to get it started. But before all that even just for piece of mind you should get a breaker bar and try to turn the engine over manually at the crank shaft pulley bolt. Hope this info helps you in your diagnosis. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    If the book says that your supposed to have infinite ohms and your reading 0 ohms as in continuity that means that the circuit is shorted. If that reading is coming from the fuel pump side of the harness you need to replace the fuel pump. But if that reading is coming from the harness side you will need to trace the short to it's point of origin, most likly chafing on a frame rail or cross member. Hope this helps.TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Most of the time if you just go down to your local toyota dealer and ask the service manager, or shop forman if they could print or copy the diagram you need they will do it for free. I've been doing that for years. Just when my repair manual doesn't cover the subject completely or the diagram isn't that great. Hope this info helps. TECH007
  • hey everyone,
    basically, my truck has a squeeling noise and I can't seem to figure out what it is. I know its not the belts and its not the brakes. When I'm driving the sound seems to come from almost underneath and behind me. It doesn't matter if my truck is warm or cold, it still happens. Anybody know of any problems that might cause this? It sounds like a bad bearing, but if I remember right i think it makes the noise when I'm stopped too ( i could be wrong about that, i cant remember for sure. But if it is true, what the hell could it possibly be?) I like to get opinions before i take it to the shop so..... if anyone could help I'd love it-thanks
  • more information to my last i drove it around tonight and here is more correct information. The squeeling noise only occurs when I am idling and moving. When i first put on the gas lightly, it makes a weird noise that is hard to describe but souns like chchchchc if that amkes any sense, but as soon as a good amount of power comes the squeel stops or cannot be heard. The squeel comes back on as soon as i let off gas and is still definatly comeing from behind the drivers seat. Its freakin annoying and loud. I hope that makes more sense than my last post. Anyone have any clues? I have a fan in my bathroom that makes the same noise. ridiculous
  • I have a 94 4x4 ext. cab pickup... its got a 6" suspension lift, 3 inch body lift, and 36x13.5x15 Superswamper irok radials.... with a stock 22re with stock gearing and 215k miles. just a tad underpowered, but surprisingly runs with NO problems and almost like its brand new. I just bought a cold air intake and header. I want to do a full engine rebuild with tons of power. I was wondering if anyone on here would know how to get the most power out of my 4 banger with out boreing it,.. im willing to pay some money, but i dont want to bore it out. i was thinking about shaving the head, cam, high performance pistons and whatever else. if anyone has any info on where i can get some high performance parts, and what all i could do to it for the most possible power without boreing please let me know.
  • I have an 88 toy 4x4 with the 3.0 VZE. The engine runs with hesitation and stuttering, not to its full torque. I love my truck and wish that i can fix this small problem. After the truck is warmed up it seems to run allot better. It has new plugs, wires, rotor and cap and coil. Ive looked at the fuses and retightened the engine grounds. Is there anything else to look at. Waiting for a responce from the gods....
  • (On a cross-country trip) I will pull over and fill up with gas...and it will start up fine. But if I pull to a rest stop and wait for 15min, it will not start up. I wait an additional 30 min. it will start up with no problems. Does the starter relay overheat? My stupid book tells me nothing. Looking for answers.
  • Does anyone know how many DEFINITE locations of VIN#'s are on a 1988 Toyota Pickup?
  • Well i guess im addressing my own question. Found a spark plug wire interior that deteriorated close to the plug. new wires? strange, easy fix.
  • I bought a 92 V/6 PU with 160,000 on the clock.
    There is a clicking clatter on the R/H bank, Drivers side.
    Is there a manual adjustment? Whats the spec and procedure? :mad: :confuse: Thanks
  • Hi again,
    My 160,000 mile V/6 PU needed a clutch job.
    I went online and shoped one frome Kragens online.
    I bought a Perfection Clutch kit. It was cheap and complete.
    The machinist told me the flywheel "was a virgin"
    so I assume it was the 1st clutch job.
    I have done at least 5 of these v/6 clutches before and did and found nothing out of the ordinary.
    Upon testing the new cluth I noted the pedal pressure was high, upon start up and test, I found there to be no free play, the clutch released off the floor and the clutch
    pedal has to be floored to engage not grind gears.
    The pedal effort is excessive. The release is too low.
    I bled the slave and went over the inslink">tall in my mind and find nothing remarkable.
    The components appeared identical and The T/O bearing was the same height.
    Anyt Ideas? Thanks
  • looks like there is a guide on top of one of the pulleys that is attached to the engine block. how do I get the belt under this guide
  • Hello, I'm new to this forum. My teenage son managed to run our 1990 4 x 4 pick out of oil. :sick: I'm pulling the 4 cylinder engine for the rebuild. I've pulled the pan and the crankshaft was scored by a spun rod bearing I've got the intake manifold off the engine but the wiring harness passes thru the harness. Is there a way to get the manifold off the harness with out disconnecting all the harness connections? Thanks for your help.
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