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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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  • Feds Probe Toyota Pickup, SUV Suspension Failures



    April 20, 2006
    Toyota pickup trucks and SUVs are the focus of a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recall query because of reports that the front suspension ball joints may come apart. Toyota trucks that are included in the investigation are the 2002-2004 Tundra, and Sequoia, 2001-2004 Tacoma and 2001-2002 4Runner.

    The automaker submitted a letter August 5, 2005 to NHTSA reporting the defect that "could result in the separation of front suspension ball joints."

    According to Toyota, the problem is a "manufacturing issue" which could result in accelerated wear of the ball joint causing a separation.

    Toyota reports that the lower ball joints that are failing were manufactured between May 2001 and October 2003.

    The NHTSA Office of Defect Investigation has received four complaints alleging five front suspension ball joint "separation incidents" while driving. In each case the driver lost control of the truck.

    The separation incidents reported to NHTSA occurred at 52,000, 70,595, 80,000 and 116,000 vehicle miles. One complaint alleged lower ball joint failures involving both front wheels within a four-month period.
  • hugh18hugh18 Posts: 1
    My 1993 Extra Long WB Delux V6 Pickup rear wheel lockup on me while driving. I am having trouble getting the drum off because the shoes are against the drum. I have opened the bleeder cock to relieve pressure, and tried to adjust the brakes but that seems frozen. I was just wondering if anyone many have a way to get this of that I may not be thinking of. Please let me know. Thanks Marty
  • Just bought a 91 4x4 toyota and want to put the toyota am-fm tape deck from my camry into the slot where the am-fm radio is now. can't find any screws or obvious way to pull out the stereo like I had in my old mazda truck,that was a very easy radio to remove. does the chilton's book have info on radio removal? anybody with a suggestion?
  • Any luck with that fuel filter?

    I've got the same truck and was thinking of venturing into a fuel filter replacement this weekend.

    Darron

    darron.collins@wwfus.org
  • roseg76roseg76 Posts: 2
    Truckrabbit -- You have to pretty much remove the lower part of the dash panel to be able to get to it. It's not too bad to do, mostly just phillips screws. It includes the glove box and plastic below the steering wheel to get to it. Make sure that before you undertake this task that the wiring harness that's currently in their will match the one you're going to put in. I'm not sure that they make factory adapters if you need one.
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    As stated in the post box, please do NOT put your email address in your messages. Answers shared in the forums benefit others who may have similar problems/questions, and it prevents people from using your email address for mailcious purposes.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • janelle3janelle3 Posts: 1
    Hi - Am looking at a '95 Xcab V6 Toyota with 63,000 miles (actual and confirmed). Seems good/clean - am concerned about the alleged head gasket problems. Is this a universal problem - stay away from this vehicle kind of thing? Given the option of another truck (tacoma model perhaps) - should one go for that? Or - is there a good possiblity that this one could go the Toyota distance? Pls. advise - made an offer, am considering withdrawing it. I'd like to see 200k out of her without a rebuild. Oh, and the guy just had the radiator flushed/cleaned 5000 miles ago - would one be able to see any oil in it at this point if indeed it is leaking at this point? And - does the "smoke" become apparant right away with a cracked and or leaking head gasket (didn't see any)?
    THANKS - please be honest - though I love the truck - I'm not willing to take on some ridiculous risk.....
  • kelleyjekelleyje Posts: 1
    i have a 94 p/u with the 22re engine. i have had it for almost 4 years and just crossed 108k miles. starting last year my truck began revving up on its own at stoplights, anytime the brake was pushed in, or it was in neutral. sometimes I don't even have to push on the gas and it will accelerate on its own! right after it first started doing this it blew a head gasket. while they had it torn apart, they replaced the timing chain, and cleaned the throttle body. after i got the truck back it was finre for about 3 months before it began doing this again. all the mechanics will do is adjust the idle speed down too low. i have heard everything from vapor lock, to timing problems or a vacuum leak. none of these are the culprit. i am sooo desparate to figure this out. any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • kelleyje,

    i actually had the same problem about 4 weeks ago with my 87 p/u. im making the assumption that the 22re in them are the same basic ECU programming.

    my problem was that the thermostat had gotten stuck. this resulted in the engine getting really hot, and then revving up on its own in order to spin the belt-driven fan in the front and cool the engine.

    once i had replaced the thermostat and filled it up with new coolant, it ran at the perfect idle speed.

    long response, short answer. oh well.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    1995 Toyota 4x4 pickup 22RE 4cyl.. When i accelerate before truck gets warmed up it acts like its not getting enough fuel. It does not respond to a steady throttle and runs sluggish until the motor warms up and then it runs fine. Truck has recent tune up and air and fuel filters have been changed. I suspect an air fuel mixture problem. Any help or valve or switches that i should look at?? Thanks folks
  • 1990pickup1990pickup Posts: 5
    I have a 1990 4x4 pickup with a 22RE. The Check Engine Light came on, and the error code that I get corresponds to a knock sensor issue.

    The drawing in the Chilton's book doesn't really do a good job of letting you know where the knock sensor is, and the instructions are not as detailed as I would like. Has anyone had to deal with / remove the knock sensor on this type of truck? Thanks much for your help!
  • jss5724jss5724 Posts: 1
    That's funny. It sounds like we have the same taste, because I have a 12ft. kayak in a short bed taco. I bought this thing on eBay that is similar to the product on this website:
    http://www.off-road.com/atv/HitchHand.htm
    I paid $14, some kind of harbor freight crap but it works well. Guy selling it claimed you can make it go up right so you can use it with a rack system on your cab which I have from a precious car. It goes into this little hitch box I bought on eBay for $20 and works perfectly. Instead of running ropes all over the bed, just lay it down flat and use rubber bungees for a quick load up and departure. Pretty sweet and solved my probs for about $50 after all of the shipping.
  • Hi Everyone,
    I live in Mich. I acquired a 91 toyota truck that had been rolled into a tele. pole!! the cab is trash on passenger side... I am looking for a cab for this beast can anyone HELP??????? would prefer a manual shift but at this point I will make anything work..Thanks Rod
  • kmulcahykmulcahy Posts: 2
    Hello Turkeyt, I have the same make and model as your truck and I have also came upon this problem. My check engine light came on a few weeks ago so I brought it to a local Toyota shop. The mechanics told me that if the light comes back on then it is an Air Flow problem. The Light has not come back on but I have also came upon the problem that after I have been driving for a little while and I put the truck in park while it is still running, after a few minutes the truck will start to shake as if it is almost going to die. I believe that this is an Idol problem but I am not sure. I was wondering if you came up with a solution to the problem and if so please email me at KTMulcahy@nichols.edu. It would be greatly appreciated.
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    As mentioned right in the post box as well as the Membership Agreement...

    PLEASE do not put your email address in your messages!

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • kmulcahykmulcahy Posts: 2
    Hello Turkeyt, I have the same make and model as your truck and I have also came upon this problem. My check engine light came on a few weeks ago so I brought it to a local Toyota shop. The mechanics told me that if the light comes back on then it is an Air Flow problem. The Light has not come back on but I have also came upon the problem that after I have been driving for a little while and I put the truck in park while it is still running, after a few minutes the truck will start to shake as if it is almost going to die. I believe that this is an Idol problem but I am not sure. I was wondering if you came up with a solution to the problem.
  • libodryvrlibodryvr Posts: 3
    Just like that my directional indicator lights and directinals quit working on my truck. I looked inside for the fuse panel but could not find it. I found the box under the hood but it does not show anyplace for directionals. Does anyone know where the heck the fuse panel is??? I don't have an owner manual or chilton or haynes. Please help.
  • Hi all,new to this site, before I go to the shop, want to make sure I tell then what to look for so I won't get ripped off. I have a 94 Toyota x-Cab 4x4 Pickup. When I travel, I leave it sitting for a week or so in the garage. I engage the parking brake and leave it in gear. When I come home and after starting it up, I release the parking brake, put it in gear and as I release the clutch, it goes nowhere and begins bogging down. I can tell that the brakes are frozen, not sure if front or rear. I have disk on front, drum on rear. I overcome the frozen brakes by sheer engine force, almost having to drop the clutch while revving, then they pop loose and all is fine again. This never happens while sitting overnight, just after sitting for a week or more. I want to go have a complete brake job, but usually they just replace the pads/disks, should I be replacing the cable from the emergency brake handle also? What other parts should I tell the shop to make sure they check? Also, any recommendations for the shop, we have Pep-Boys, and all the other general retailers around here in Corpus, just want to get the job done right the first time. On another note, I bought the beefy after-market torsion bars, the install seems fairly straight forward, any recommendations as to the best way to do this job. I also am about the have the clutch replaced, the bearing is starting to squeal, I have 155K on this one, bought the parts, any recommendations on doing it myself or giving to a pro. Thanks for any/all help anyone can offer me,
    Thank you
    Jerry
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, I ran a trouble code on my truck and came up with a coolant temperature switch. You can run a code on your truck (up thru 1995) by doing this. On the passenger side fender well there is little box beside your main fuse box. Open it up and contact a wire to the TE1 and E1 terminal. Then go inside and turn off all gadgets radio etc. Put tranny in neutral and then turn on the key but do not start the truck. The check engine light will blink the trouble codes and you count the number. It will blink say 2 times and pause and then blink say 2 more times and continue to blink those sequences. 22 being coolant temp. sensor. You may have more than one set of fault codes in there and it will seperate them by blinking one fault and then the other. If no fault codes are in there then the check light will blink about every half second. You can go online to get fault codes for your truck or buy a Chiltons book. Hope this helps D.T.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Your parking brake may release under the dash but that does not mean it releases at the rear wheels. Climb under the rear and have someone release the parking brake and you can watch the cable. The cable leads to a lever outside of the rear wheel and it will freeze up if you don't keep it oiled. If it is froze up or sticking get a breaker bar and go to work on it by working it in and out. Shoot the oil to it and after awhile it should free up. If it is not the rear parking brake you may have a problem with your front brake calipers sticking. The next time this problem happens, jack the front wheel up and try to turn the wheel. If it won't turn freely it very well may be that the calipers are sticking and causing the pads to be pressed against the rotors to tight. I would replace the brake hose if it is the front causing the problem. I have had brake lines collapse from the inside and when you press down on the brakes the calipers woud stick and not return. If that does not work then the calipers are next. Determine if the problem is front or rear by trying the above. Hope this info helps. D.T.
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