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Questions about Fuel Systems



  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    We'd need year make model engine and better description of symptoms.
  • I think you may have hit the nail on the head. We have not checked under the injector manifold. BUT, I did get the idleing problem fixed today. Tightened a pin under the throttle linkage and it smoothed right on out. Thanks for the help. Now it's time to work on the Volvo. :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Glad to hear you got one sorted out. Good luck with the Volvo.
  • Thanks. Working on that thing is tight quarters and the parts aren't exactly cheap. I just hope I can get another 185k out of it.
  • ttvjottvjo Posts: 4
    yes, i have a 2003 ford expedition with 55,000 miles on it i raned it low of gas a few times now it is hesitating when i'm trying to accelerate, it goes real slow and then gradually pick up then start fading out again and sometimes jerk a little bit what is wrong anyone know should i change the fuel filter or is it my fuel pump.. also where can i get cheap parts from the dealership is so high....i have tried gas treatment but it didn't got worser at a half of tank of gas :cry: please help me out i just a little old lady...thanks
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    try replacing the fuel filter first. it's a little interesting to work on... bolted underneath, has those silly spring clips on it, you have to bleed the pressure off first at the fuel rail... but you're due on that. aftermarket filters from a quality source like wix should be less than the dealer cost. any decent auto parts store will have a filter for that vehicle in stock.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    2002 Silverado, 8.1L, 73K mi. - This truck has seen a gradual reduction in fuel mileage over the last six months. Besides plugs, what constitutes a tune-up? Should the injectors be removed and cleaned? as well as O2 sensors? Thanks.

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "Besides plugs, what constitutes a tune-up?"

    Plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter.

    "Should the injectors be removed and cleaned?"


    "as well as O2 sensors?"

    No. Oxygen sensors will gradually deteriorate, and when they do they'll tend to slow down their response to changes in exhaust gas oxygen content. The proper way to check an O2 sensor is to monitor it's activity on a scan tool, watching for swings between low and high voltage output.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    "watching for swings between low and high voltage output"

    Is that a good thing or bad thing? :)
    And, what kind of scan tool? Thanks alcan.

  • I have a 2000 Ford Windstar that "lurches" for lack of a better description, while driving it. It is barely noticable but the engine light has come on. Does that sound like a fuel system problem?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Oxygen sensors generate a voltage signal relative to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream. The engine control computer uses this signal to fine tune the air/fuel mixture. The voltage should be constantly changing from about 200mV to about 800mV as the computer increases/decreases fuel delivery.

    Scan tools display data stream, the actual signals being received by the engine computer from all input sensors, and can range from Actron's $300 CP9135 to Snap-on's $5000+ MT2500.
  • I'm getting the same problem on a '98 Expedition. I used to have a '97 Tahoe & its fuel flter was near the right side just under the passenger door. Is the Expedition filter similarly located?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    just about any OBD-II adapter that allows for a PC or Palm display will allow you to watch the crossings of the oxygen sensors. I built a BR-1 adapter and use a junkpile laptop for the purpose. some scantools with complex LCD screens might allow watching the crossings directly on the tool, Alcan would know more about that grade of tool. you can check directly in the reviews at to see if they have reviewed any that will do it.

    you can also use thin wires slid into the connector to bring the signals out to a general-duty oscilloscope.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the two fords I've owned plus one my sister had a few months all had the fuel filter inside the chassis rail under the drivers side, position varied from ahead of the seat to behind the seat. think like a designer who doesn't want to be sued for a moment. they want the fuel lines and filter protected, but availiable for repairs. so it has to be inside the chassis box someplace and behind the engine. the fuel lines are usually way high next to the body near the top of the chassis. they'll dip down to a fuel filter. look with your hands if you don't see it right away, there's one there.
  • I have a 1995 hyundai accent that was stored for 4 years. Now with a new battery and fresh fuel there is no fuel getting to the engine. Does anyone know if there is an access pane under the rear seat to get to the fuel pump? Or any other uggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • andreusandreus Posts: 1
    My truck is seems to be losing power to the fuel system. I have changed the fuel pump and filter 10 months ago (8000kms) so I don't believe that it is that. The fuse is good. I changed the fuel pump relay and that masked the problem for a week or so. I seem to only have the problem when the engine warms up (after 15 mins). It sometime hesitated kinda like the fuel filters plugged and then it just stopped and I can't get it started again. Any Ideas?
  • 1991 suzuki samurai i just bought it starts good and idles good drive 1/4 or 1/2 1/4 just like its runs out of fuel.but can start it back up but dose the same . changed the fuel felder didnt help
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Air filter good?
    No restrictions in the intake? collapsed hose and that sort.

    Another common cause of that symptom is a clogged cat.
  • The fuel warning light started flashing. Manual says it means gas cap loose, bad gasket on it , not put back on properly or a "fuel Leak" somewhere in the system. The cap seems tight enough so I started talking to mechanics. One mechanic said he could do a "smoke test" to see where the leak is but this could be costly. Another one said "buy a new cap; the gaskets do wear out." Even caps for MB's aren't cheap ( especially if that's not the problem) Does anyone have any ideas on how to proceed? Also, the retractrable hardtop has just stopped working...HELP.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd go for the gas cap. That is 99% chance the problem. Heck it takes a few re-test the system so it may only be that it was loose. Gas cap from pep-boys should fit even a MB.

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