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Fuel Systems -- Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    And the testing method was very inaccurate. The testing has finally been revamped starting with 2008 model cars so they should be more accurate now.
  • jdh93jdh93 Posts: 7
    I have a 93 6 cyl with 70,000 mi. About 3 weeks ago the muffler and tailpipe which were already rusted out fell off. The cat converter is still in place. It ran fine after this for about a week, then it went completely dead. The starter was replaced and it ran fine for a few days. Then it started dying after it started and smelling of gas. After waiting for a while, it eventually starts, but only after releasing a plume of smoke. It then runs and idles very sluggishly and at times dies again.I have to start it and immediatley put it in gear and go or it dies. This happens about half of the time. The other half of the time, it starts on the first crank and runs and idles smoothly. I have replaced the filters, spark plugs and treated the injectors and fuel system. Various mechanics have looked at it and none claims to have seen the problem. When it is plugged in to the computer, no codes show up. Can anybody help me???
    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have you put a replacement exhaust system on it, and have they also replaced the 2nd Oxygen sensor (the one after the catalytic converter).
  • have a problem with my car its so annoying

    daewoo lanos 1400cc
    turn key you hear the 2 second pump noise buzzing and it starts 1st time usualy always'

    go to it next time turn key dont hear the pump kicking in and no way will it start, the engine tries to start but wont

    i have changed the pump and pump relay switch but hasnt made any difference

    question.......
    could it be the selonoid , it sounds as though it may be electrical and when i dont hear the noise it doesnt start as if it isnt getting a signal to the pump?

    any ideas please
    thanks
  • jdh93jdh93 Posts: 7
    I haven`t done either of these things. Only the fuel system has been looked at. Do you suggest that I have the exhaust system replaced?
    Thanks
  • I bought a 95 toyota corolla dx that is in good shape with high miles. My first
    toyota and I use it for commuting. My problem is a hesitation when you drive it
    cold and when you are maintaing highway speeds. it is like you are letting all the way off the gas and pressing it again then doining it all over. I can see that the injectors look to be new. could it be the throttle position sensor, or fuel pressure (fuel pump). It bugs me and I want to figure out what is happening. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,970
    You'll have to read the codes first off, from a scanner.

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  • 2003 eclipse gts we have bench checked the fuel pump works great. put it back in the car does not the 15 amp fuse is fine. is there a relay and where?

    thanks
    fred
  • spy888spy888 Posts: 2
    a plugged CAT converter. Back pressure builds up after a while and engine dies, Then
    it start ok again coz pressure is released after it dies. And so on......
    Try diconnecting the front of the CAT, leaving a crack for exhaust to escape.
    If it works now, replace the CAT
  • when I parked the car every thing was fine. the car sat for about a year. when I tried to trun her over she would'nt start. got a new battery, notthing, It seens that there is no power or juice going to the gas tank. I'm not quite certain... could you help me on this problem? Help!!

    How do I clean or blow out the EGR Valves so it will pass AirCare.and where would the valve be underneith that hood?
    Car (1989 Cadillac Fleetwood
    Help!
    Patches5619
  • wcarnes1wcarnes1 Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 oldsmobile 98 regency elite that stalls when you stop or turn a sharp turn. It has in the past stalled when the fuel level got below 1/4 of a tank, but could always be fixed with filling the tank up. Now With over a 1/2 tank of gas I get the stalling. It seems to be better when the engine is cold , but gets progressivly worse when the engine gets hotter. On a friends advice, I changed the idle air control valve. This didn't seem to help the problem. After stalling , I put it in park and I can start it up as though nothing happened. Please help me with this problem as for financial reasons, I can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now. Thanks for the help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Stall after stopping or turning is sometimes caused by a baffle inside the fuel tank breaking loose. The tank has L shaped plastic or metal baffles glued or welded to the bottom of the tank to keep fuel from 'sloshing' around.

    If one of these break loose it can interfer with the fuel pickup and cause stalling.

    If this is the problem, the tank will have to be dropped, and either replaced, or it might be possible to fish the loose baffle out of the tank.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Is the "checd engine" light on?

    It sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor.
  • wcarnes1wcarnes1 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. If it is that and I am able to fish out the baffle. Would it be OK to use the tank without a baffle? Maybe I could just keep the tank pretty full and avoid a problem with not having a baffle. Thanks for your help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, there usually are more than one baffle in there. I think you will be ok if you pull one out. You may be able to hear the slosh, but I would think a loose baffle would be much worse wear and tear on the fuel pickup and pump than a little more sloshing.

    You might have something else wrong. Loose baffle is just one thing that it might be.

    Bad crank position sensor/sensors is another one, but these usually do not happen after a turn. They will just randomly shut down a car. And many times will not set a 'check engine' light. I am more familar with problems from them in 2000/2001 Cadillacs rather than - what did you say you had - a Pontiac?
  • wcarnes1wcarnes1 Posts: 3
    Thanks again for the advice Bolivar. I Have an oldsmobile. The car had this problem (not as bad) many many years ago and it cleared up. They just kept it full of gas and didn't have to worry about it. I think maybe the baffle has been loose in there for some time. Maybe it has just gotton lodged in a bad place now, which is causing the stalling. I find it had to be a fuel pump or a filter. This would cause a loose of power as well? It may not be too hard to drop the tank and check this out. If one is loose, I hopefully can get it out. If I can't Maybe I can replace the tank.
  • dek1dek1 Posts: 1
    where is the fuel filter on 2004 chevy trailblazer. Do i have to drop the gas tank?
    How hard is it to change? please help.
    Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,970
    The fuel

    filter is located on the LH frame rail.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
    3. Clean all the fuel filter connections and the surrounding areas before disconnecting the fuel pipes in order to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system.
    4. Disconnect the quick connect fitting (3) from the fuel filter outlet.
    5. Disconnect the threaded fitting from the fuel filter inlet.

    6. Remove the fuel filter bracket bolt.
    7. Disconnect the fuel pipes from the fuel filter bracket.

    8. Remove the fuel filter from the bracket.
    9. Inspect the fuel pipe O-ring for cuts, nicks, swelling, or distortion.

    INSTALL

    1. Install the fuel filter to the bracket.

    2. Connect the fuel pipes to the fuel filter bracket.
    3. Install the fuel filter bracket bolt.

    4. Connect the threaded fitting to the fuel filter inlet.
    5. Connect the quick connect fitting (3) to the fuel filter outlet.
    6. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
    7. Inspect for leaks.

    7.1. Turn ON the ignition for 2 seconds .
    7.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds .
    7.3. Turn ON the ignition.
    7.4. Inspect for fuel leaks.

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Martha,
    You sure are having bad auto problems, with your toyota altis and now your galant.

    But I do want to thank you for your elaborate descriptions of your problems, as a matter of fact you didn't really need give us all this detailed information about your problems.

    Sudden brake downs to toyotas or galants cost $4,325 to repair.

    To convert to hybrid toyota will cost about $127,000.

    I hope I have been of help to you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,970
    Post removed in the cue for soliciting in the forums

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    "Post removed in the cue for soliciting in the forums "

    Ahhhhhhhhh...... And I gave her such great advice.
  • minismomminismom Posts: 4
    hi

    I got a P1133 message code when vip checked the check engine light on my sunfire

    they told me to take it to the local dealer

    what does that code mean - gas, fuel pump o2 censor ect

    thanks
    minismom
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,970
    It could be a defective 02 sensor, or the wiring/circuit to that sensor and worst possible case would be a defective PCM (brain) module.

    This can all be tested by a competent diagnostician---no guessing required.

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Google is your friend.

    What I found.

    "Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 1 sensor 1 (Rear Bank)"
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 6,808
    I have been hearing a lot lately about fuel system cleaners and injector flushes to clean out "deposits". I thought I understood all about this but I'm wondering now if I do.

    So take me to school. Where do these deposits come from, do any of the dealer offered or over the counter products work and what exactly are they supose to cure? :confuse:

    Is this the modern equivalent to "blowing the carbon out" by racing up and down the highway?

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • jason46jason46 Posts: 1
    Please help.
    I have a 1992 Cherokee Jeep and it died on the highway. There appears to be no power going to the fuel pump. Any ideas on finding out where the power has broken down?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If nobody is able to answer your question that specifically knows about your year/make/model, then you can probably get a set of electrical schematics (and service manual) from eautorepair.com for a cheap fee.

    I'd suspect either a fuse, or a relay.
  • I am wondering where the fuel filter is for the 2000 chrysler concorde lxi 3.2 L? Also we are gonna change the fuel pump and want to know if you have to drop the gas tank or if you can get to it threw the trunk?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,970
    A combination fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator is used on all gas powered engines. It is located on the top of the fuel pump module.

    The fuel pump module is an in-tank unit with an integral fuel level sensor and pressure regulator.

    Yes you have to remove the fuel tank.

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  • budhbudh Posts: 109
    I filled my tank yesterday evening in my 153,000 mile 2002 Highlander Limited AWD V6. Then went through an automatic car wash before driving five miles home. When I got out of the Highlander I saw the gas cap was off and was off during the car wash!

    No issue with my five mile drive home.

    What would you do to make sure it keeps running right after this error?

    And now that I have reinstalled the gas cap properly, can I prevent the check engine light from coming on?

    (I live in a fairly cold climate near the Indiana/Michigan state line.)

    Bud H
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