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Comments
Some significant design flaws. For example: the "radiator support" comprises a 1/8" thick piece of plastic (!) that runs along the front of the undercarriage. The result? Hitting a curb at 3 mph caused $1400 worth of damage. Apparently, not only is the support exposed and weak, but to replace it one must take off the front end of the car.
Be aware, too, that the mpg, at least in my experience, is lower than claimed. The rear windows cannot be controlled from the rear. After one month, my EOS top already has developed a rattle and squeak. The windows mesh (too) tightly with the doors, so they "stick" a little when opening or closing. Maybe most important, VW's generally don't last as long without a lot of maintenance when compared to many, maybe most, of the other manufacturers.
Try the Volvo, Toyota, or Saab instead.
That radiator issue sounds like a bum deal. Sorry to hear it. But, hitting curbs should always be avoided. For fair comparison, my volvo had a painted lower lip that got horribly scratched up by curbs. If I was so inclined, replacing and painting it would have cost quite a lot. So many many cars have poorly thought-out design elements.
For your mileage issue, your complaint is with the EPA, not VW.
Sorry to hear about the rattle and squeak. That would annoy me, too.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I treat it like the sports car that it is, if you take a look at the one Osborn tricked out on my site myvweos.com you will see it's eased over bumps in the road too and it's lowered!
The days of my youth and my solid metal 67 firebird are gone, it's all plastic now and not meant to outlast a 6 year lease.
Steve
That window stick is by design, the windows go up into the top to prevent leaks and stiffen the car, when you start opening the door they move down a little, watch it closely,
You just have to open the handle and hesitate before pulling the door open.
Anyway, here's a new item: VW is now telling their EOS owners NOT to take the car to an automated car wash as it will damage the roof seals. I have a funny feeling this car may start getting rampant bad reports once enough are in the field ...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
-sgp
sorry to hear as I love the 2.0.
Steve
Paid an extra buck for a second power rinse, too
3 drops of water leaked in through the seam atop the passenger window - 1 drop on the driver side.
(3.2L Eos, 1.2k miles... give me a few more months to break the "newness")
As I've said many times in the past - never buy a new car within the first couple of years of production. To do so means that you are volunteering to be the beta testers for the automotive industry. It doesn't matter what brand of car you purchase. Cases in point:
2007 VW Eos - leaking roof seals
2007 Toyota Tundra pickup - engine replacement due to faulty camshafts
2007 Dodge Nitro, Magnum, Charger and Caliber - Faulty ABS software
2007 - GMC Acadia and Saturn Outlook - potentially faulty airbag sensors.
These are examples where someone's desire to be the first kid on the block to own X vehicle or Y vehicle (possibly to satisfy one's ego or enhance one's personal image) may get them into trouble...
I purchase my vehicles at or near the end of the production cycle - where chances are very good that most of the bugs have been worked out...
To each their own, I guess... :confuse:
With 91 octane, I get 320 miles from a full tank.
(That's a fully topped off tank in both cases. I ran 4 full tanks through the car before reading those "miles until empty" numbers from the car's MFD.)
My brakes are fantastic.
No, seriously, this car has the best brakes I have ever experienced. I'm rather gentle with her usually and she performs great - I've tried a few controlled slams on my street when no one was about and the ABS kicked in and I stopped QUICK. No mushy pedal, just an instant and firm response.
I have a 2007, 3.2 with DVD/Lux/Sport/Tech packages. (In other words, "everything")
I bought it in SE Mass for Wholesale+700.
This car has been getting a lot of press lately so people who I never would have thought cared about cars have commented on it... Must admit, I usually don't get that much attention for my more conservative car choices.
With no upper frame for the window, it's hard to act surprised when a little water leaks in. (Operative word being "little".) I sprayed a little silicone on the rubber seals to keep them moist. Can't blame VW for the properties of rubber, unfortunately.
My mpg is worse than yours, and I was disapointed that VW made the move to premium fuel only (91 octane). My previous VW's all called for 87 octane.
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/audio_video/times_online_tv/?channel=driving&clipid=1152_timesonline0208
I wonder if anyone else experiences the following (i.e. is this normal?)
I have a 2.0T EOS with the 6 speed tiptronic transmission, the car is quite new, about 1700 miles on it.
When I place the car in park and take my foot off the brake the car invariably rolls backward a bit before settling into a set position. Sometimes the roll is barely noticable, but sometimes I think it's as much as 4-6 inches, probably enough to roll backward into another vehicle or other obstacle if I parked really close.
Anyone else experience this, or is it a unique glitch to my vehicle that a mechanic should look at?
Also, you should always have your parking brake engaged, when the car is unattended.
regards,
kyfdx
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When I test drove the Eos recently, the dealer was willing to negotiate and actually sell the car at a decent price, I just wasn't ready. No financing deals however. (VW has financing deals on almost everything but the Eos.)
When do the 2008 Eos' become available? As far as future reliability, would it be better to take a cheaper 2007 or pay a little more for a 2008?
I hate shopping for a car. Absolutely hate it. But if it has to be done, what's the best time-frame if one does not need a car immediately?
Any tips would be appreciated!
Has anyone else had this problem?
It's almost a year old and I love it everytime I drive it, my motorcycle is pretty pissed, it's more fun to cruise with my daughter to Rocky Mountain National Park with the top down than squirming on the motorcycle waiting for someone to hit you.
Steve
Has anyone else had this kid of problem?
After the compressor was replaced all works well except it had a strange smell when the AC was first turned on. I took it to the dealer and they found there was a TSB for that and they performed a 4 zone cleaning or something like that. Now all is well in that department.
The roof got stuck halfway down the other day then finally retracted and it would not go up. The dealer says to turn the key on and off removing the key each time until the top works it took 4 times but clunks and makes a lot of noise. I'm taking it in to see the dealer I'll let yall know.
The fun thing about the top getting stuck down was that it was going to rain. So I called the dealer and asked how to get the top up in an emergency. They said only they can do that which their computer. So I asked them who was going to be responsible for my 31K hot tub when I brought it to the dealer full of water. They said I was under warranty still so there should be no problem. I wonder though if they would try to get out of repairing the interior due to water damage because the top was down.
The AC quit working with 5000 miles. It's been replaced.
The AC ducts smelled odd. There is a TSB for cleaning.
Make friends with the guy who fixes your car. That way when you take it in for a leak he will record it and the third time is the charm (at least in Florida).
The new 3 series hardtop looks better every day.
I usually keep my car in the garage, but on two seperate occasions where it was out at night and it snowed, my windows didn't go down to allow the door to open. Then, when I finally did get the door to open, the window wouldn't go down to close the door. Has anyone else had this problem?
Also, in the cold weather, my rear window seems to rattle. I thought that it was going to fall out-but it has not yet.
My other concern is that on the roof, it almost looks like the paint is "cracking" in a spiderweb form.
My dealer did a swap with a out of state dealer to get the car I wanted.
The car showed up without an Owners Manual, my Salesperson assured me they ordered me one and I'd have it soon.
Well it's going on three months now and despite calls and emails... no manual.
So before I rachet up my pressure on them I'm wondering what else I should of received.
Did you Eos owners get a Valet Key with your vehicle (or think of anything else I could be missing)?
Thanks for any info,
Lance
(I know I also need to obtain the Radio Security code, that I think is usually in the manual)
Anyone else with this cold weather experience? Please post because this is an enigma and I would like to know whether it is a widespread problem or a fairly isolated incident.
The whole window adjustment thing is iffy, and you may find that after you close the door there is a small gap along the side which can be addressed by putting the window down slightly and putting it up again.
I have been able to deal with the minor issue by toggling the switch, but the major issue has been times that the window won't move at all, either down to open/close or in my case where it retracted totally into the door never to return. My biggest concern is that since the Eos requires such tight tolerances to function that this may develop into a chronic issue. Hopefully Volkswagen will pay attention and address this.
I'll post once I get my car back and get more information from the dealer as to what actually went wrong and how widespread the problem is.
Disconnect the Car Battery,
Wait 2 minutes
Connect the Car Battery
Start Car, (all Dash warning Lights should be on)
Preform the following on each window:
Wind down the car window by pressing the down button
wait 3 sec
Wind the window up to the top holding the up button
Release the button for 1 sec
Push the Up Button again and hold for 2 secs
(then Release for one sec)
Push the Up Button again and hold for 2 secs then release
Repeat for each window, one at a time.
Turn the steering wheel full left lock then full right lock
(all warning lights should go out, if not drive the car around the block and all the systems should reset)
Does anyone have recommendations? Costco sells the Michelin Pilots, and Firestone is recommending the Bridgestone Potenzas.
Thanks
I've had it to the dealer 5 times now and they can't seem to find the problem.
Thanks!
Mark