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Subaru Crew MPG-Real World Numbers

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Comments

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    do people think a 3.0 Bean will get better mileage than a 2.5 XT OB turbo with auto ? I ask because its probably a choice between those two to replace my 98 legacy (unless the bums at SOA come out with a 2.5i with VDC).
  • dino001dino001 Tampa, FLPosts: 3,497
    VDC will propagate down the scale and probability of getting it with 2.5i in 2008 is high, as Subaru wants to capitalize on IIHS top ratings. Perhaps Ltd. trim first - who knows.

    2012 BMW 328i wagon, manual and sports package. No. sold in the US: 1. Probably.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It really depends. I think if you step into it, i.e. accelerate and really use that turbo, it'll use more gas. Plus it requires premium, while the H6 can make do on regular.

    If you baby it, it'll probably be about the same mileage.

    Odds are the H6 will cost less to fuel up, especially if you use regular or plus.

    -juice
  • Hi, new to the forums. I don't see many WRX listings in this forum so I figured I'd chime in.

    I've owned the car since it was new. Now has 73,400 on the odometer.

    Local driving - lots of shifting, stop signs, traffic lights, etc. I will get about 20mpg.

    Mixed driving - Some highway mixed in with the above I get in the 22-24mpg range.

    Pure Highway - I sometimes take the car from NY to VA for business trips. I'll set cruise at 65mph (when possible). Last trip I was able to pull in 30mpg on the ride down. Basically I filled up the tank the night before in NY. Drove down to Reston, VA and gassed up. The ride home was a bit less. I calculated 28.5 mpg. There was some more traffic on I-95.

    I have been running Mobil-1 synthetic so maybe that helped a bit. As for tires I'm running stock 16" rims with Falken ZE-512s.

    Also my car has the turbo boost gauge on the steering column. I tend to use it to tell me how hard I am on the gas. I try and keep it out of the boost range as much as possible. Of course it is a WRX so I get on it once in a while. Very large grin on my face when I do that :D
  • dino001dino001 Tampa, FLPosts: 3,497
    Just passing 60K. It's a wagon. My commute numbers (3/4 60-70 mph 1/4 city or traffic jam) is consistent on 24 mpg.

    My highway (interstate cruise 75-85 mph) - lucky to get 27, more reaslistic is 25-26 mpg.

    City stop and go: 19-20 mpg.

    Motor oil: synthetic. Tires: stock 16" with BF Goodrich Traction TA.

    2012 BMW 328i wagon, manual and sports package. No. sold in the US: 1. Probably.

  • dliboirondliboiron Posts: 10
    What does the pinging sound like?
  • dliboirondliboiron Posts: 10
    Update i guess, I do about 8L/100km, (30mpg). I bought a '97 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AT.
    I have a question though, in the manual it says I should have a 60L tank, but at fillup its about half that, could it have been a typo?
  • aaykayaaykay Posts: 539
    There should be around 3 gallons (11 liters) of reserve fuel in the tank, when the fuel light comes on.

    However, half of the rated capacity when the fuel light comes on, is definitely a bit extreme and should be checked out.
  • dliboirondliboiron Posts: 10
    Um, I never mentioned the empty ever going on, I fill up before that point.
  • aaykayaaykay Posts: 539
    Then there lies your answer. You are filling it up, well before it hits the "reserve" and hence you are only filling up half the tank's capacity, since the rest of the fuel is already present in the tank. No typo there.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,450
    I notice that the fuel gauge drops faster during the first "1/2 tank" than the second. If I fill up at the 1/2 mark on the gauge, it never takes more than 7 gallons or so. The closer it gets to empty, the more accurate the gauge. For example, if I wait until the light comes on (which I usually do), I can guarantee myself the car will take at least 13 gallons. ;)
  • stevecebustevecebu Posts: 493
    Then there lies your answer. You are filling it up, well before it hits the "reserve" and hence you are only filling up half the tank's capacity, since the rest of the fuel is already present in the tank. No typo there.

    It's not relevant. f you know how much gas you used and you know how many miles you drove you can get your figures.
    If you fill it til it clicks off and then refill it again you will know how many gallons or liters you've used. This works every time. It's important to consistently shut off the fuel at the first click or in my case the second click with my present vehicle. The idiot light is sporadic at best. See how much fuel it is each time you fill up because the rest is in the tank.
    I admit I'll use the low fuel idiot light but it can vary by quite a bit.
    For the record my 1.3L Honda Jazz was tested by the Honda Factory guys with me driving the car to figure out why the economy was so low. They had me do some crazy stuff to improve it. I had an actual factory computer hooked up real time while driving with 2 techs. Bottom line is some Jazz/Fit's get great economy and others don't. But Honda won't admit that. It's a great car but some specific cars get lower economy than others.
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Huh? What's not relevant? Dliboiron wasn't asking how to calculate his mileage, he was asking how how many liters the tank holds (60L sounds right).

    -Frank
  • mike205mike205 Posts: 3
    06 Legacy Wagon 2.5iSE with Automatic Transmission
    - rated 23 - 30mpg EPA.

    Actual 100% Highway 26 - 29 mpg.
    Actual 90% City Short-Haul point to point - 16 - 18mpg.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    05 LGT Wagon 5MT
    30k miles

    So far only did a highway trip 75-80mph, 28.x mpg

    I'll post back when I do some city driving.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sweet mike, you sure you were going "only" 80? ;)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    yup cruise control has saved me from many tickets! I set it on 75 these days and leave it there.

    -mike
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    Since replacing my Knock Sensor, I have seen a nice increase in MPG :) . It was throwing an intermittent CEL (P0325) that specified a Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction and was able to replace it myself (with a few hiccups) and since then been rewarded with the following jump in MPG :shades: over the past two tankfulls.

    Most recent MPG results.
    25.925
    25.684
    22.684
    23.170
    24.430
    22.689
    22.814
    23.060

    Now those "hiccups" were due to me leaning into the engine bay a bit too hard while doing the sensor replacement :blush: .

    #1 - I unseated the cruise control cable/linkage a bit which caused a P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected CEL. I started hunting down IAC issues until I noticed the problem and simply resnapped the cable back.

    #2 - Cracked a vacuum line that operates the EGR, which led to it throwing the P0400 EGR Flow Malfunction. Fixed that with a new section of appropriated tubing.

    Now I can take it in for inspection with my fingers crossed.

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd - 139,500 miles
  • Hi Alan. I got a CEL light myself for the Knock Sensor on my 98 GT. Do you have instructions on how to change it?
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    Recommended tools:
    Flashlight
    Socket wrench
    8" socket extension
    12mm socket
    Magnetic pickup tool

    Finding the sensor was the first issue.

    [copied from a Nabisco post] ;)
    The knock sensor is located on top of the block, above the #4 cylinder. It should be on the drivers side, left of the throttle body near the cable linkage if you are standing in front of the engine. There may be a EGR solenoid in the way, so you need to peer pass that to see it. It should be a black round thing with a 12mm bolt through the middle, connected by one wire, but with a white 2-pin connector.

    Getting to it with hands and tools is the 2nd issue
    From the drivers side -
    With the socket on the extension, I seated it on the bolt, attached the wrench and backed it out. I had the magnetic pickup handy to get the bolt fully out. Put this aside as you will likely need it during the replacement, my part from the dealer did not come with a new bolt.

    From the passenger side -
    Pull the sensor out into the more open area on the left side of the throttle body. I pulled it through using where it connects to the harness.
    There is not enough room on the right side to get both hands in to release the connector from the harness.
    Unclip it from the harness and attach the new one onto the harness and thread the sensor back under the throttle body.

    Back on the drivers side -
    Again use the magnet tool to pull it into the generally area where it has to be remounted.
    Put the bolt back through the center of the sensor and carefully guide it back down towards the engine block.
    With just the extension and socket, attach to the bolt and "feel it" back into the bolt hole.
    Turn it counter clockwise a bit just to be sure of alignment and that you will catch the threads correctly.
    Attach the wrench and tighten it down, but not too tight. There are warnings that you can damage the sensor if you really overtighten it.

    "Plug n Play" right?!?!

    Clear your code(s) and start her up.

    Good Luck!

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    BTW, my dealer charged me $107 + tax. If you are not in a hurry, I am sure you can get a better price online.

    I used a Subaru Bucks coupon so it was only $15 out of pocket.

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd
  • Subaru bucks, how do you get those? Are they available in Canada?
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    Chase offers a Subaru credit card where as you spend on the card, you accumulate points (3%). The dealers honor these for parts, service, and car purchases.

    I'm not sure about the Canada availability. Take a look at the Chase credit card site for details.

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd
  • stantontstantont Posts: 148
    '08 OB XT turbo, MT5. First trip after breakin. Approx 2500 miles at start. 75-80 mph on cruise control. [Included about 50 miles of letting family try out the car in New Orleans; that particular tankful only came to 23 mpg(!).]

    TOTAL: 103.0 gallons for 2839 miles equals 27.56 mpg. Wouldn't be surprised to see it creep to 28+ by 20k miles.

    MPG indicator is about 10-15 % low; it read 25.2 mpg for trip. At first I was pretty disappointed in "mileage" until I realized the trip MPG calculator was off.

    Looks like the new EPA test routine (18 city, 24 highway, Hah!) is pretty hostile to the turbo. I routinely get 22-23 city, and the highway mileage speaks for itself.
  • 10years10years Posts: 48
    03 Forester, 4 EAT, 83 K miles.

    Last year, June 2007, I'd been averaging about 25.5 mpg. But now I'm averaging a touch better than 28 mpg over the last three fill-ups. Although I'm not a hyper-miling purist, I've kinda of:
    1. Inflated tires a couple pounds more than the door placard shows.
    2. Slowed down to not exceed speed limits very much and mostly stay in the right lane.
    3. Look far ahead to anticipate conditions to better to take advantage of coasting and light touch braking to minimize full dead stops and starts.
    4. Go light on the accelerator.

    On the downside my 26 mile compute time is extended about 5 minutes and the brakes have developed a light squeal.

    Have Fun,
    Ted
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The brakes probably do that because you rarely use them! ;)
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