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Infiniti M35/M45 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Just wanted to share a humerous happening about a rattle. Bought a new m35x about a year and half ago. For two months from the time I bought it I heard a rattle evertime I would hit a bump or a washboard type road. Went crazy trying to find the rattle. One day for some reason(even though I don't where sun glasses) I opened the sunglass holder in the roof console. Someone at the dealership had left a pair of great looking sunglasses in the holder. Removed the glasses and the rattle disappeared. Have slept well since.
  • I too am experiencing the steering defect and extremely low gas mileage (~14 mpg in local driving) with my '06 Sport (27,000 miles). I just bought it this past summer (came off of a two year lease) and generally like the car but am now wondering if I made the right choice.

    Before I go back to my dealer about the steering rack does anyone know if this fix is covered by the warranty and if this is indeed the best way to correct the issue? The gas mileage sucks but that I can live with for now - the steering problem not so much.
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 960
    The steering problem may be a faulty rack which would be covered under warranty. Your service manager has to see/feel the problem driving the car and sometimes that's the tough part.
  • I'd be concerned about the 14 mpg city too. My '07 gets 17.5 mpg city and I drive it fairly aggressively. Are going around all day with your right foot on the floor? If not, I'd question why only 14 mpg.
  • barryendbarryend Posts: 121
    I have a 2006 M35X. Tracking was dangerous. My steering rack was replaced under warranty in 2007 and that helped allot. Shortly thereafter I replaced the horrible 27,000 mile OEM Goodyear GT-A tires with Continental Contacts. That helped even more. They greatly improved wet and snow traction and softened the ride.

    The M still does not track that well but the roads in my Westchester, NY area are horrible. Otherwise the car is great.

    My theory is the design of the steering lacks caster in the alignment. It is incurable. More caster would increase the steering's tendency to go straight.

    Gas mileage is not very good. Killed me last summer. It is a heavy car with 4-wheel drive and the top gearing is low. No 7-speed on the M35X even for 2009. No real cure. Go light on the pedal and easy on the a/c. Keep the air cleaner clean. Sluggish on regular gas use mid grade or premium.

    My lease is over soon. Thinking of Audi an A4 (a bit small not cheap but wonderful),
    Caddy CTS 4 wheel drive (beautiful, aggressive prices, no backup camera, great warranty, On Star, but who knows about GM service and quality?)
    Infiniti G-37 sedan (a bit small and rear seats do not fold down),
    Good but uglies: Acura TL and Infiniti FX. (don't know if I can look at those for years).
  • My driving is almost always local and I'm actually driving fairly easy to get the 14 MPG -- driving it hard brings it down closer to 12. Based on consumption history in the computer the best the previous driver did was about 18 mpg (assume that was more highway miles). With gas below $2/gal it's just an annoyance but I'd sure love the additional gear.

    As for the steering rack - I'll make an appointment with my service rep and hope that they notice the same thing I do (somehow I suspect that Murphy's Law will temporarily disappear...). The car has OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE050As that have a fair amount of mileage left on them and none of the boards have pointed to these tires as a culprit. Will keep you all posted.
  • barryendbarryend Posts: 121
    The 4 wheel drive should use more gas than the rear wheel drive. I cannot understand your low mileage. Maybe it is allot of hills and heavy traffic.
  • Have a '06 Caddy CTS 3.6 (wife's car). 58k trouble free miles. My '02 Olds Intrigue .. 100k trouble free before I sold it to my neice 3 yrs ago - still driving it. My point is GM builds some very good/reliable/affordable cars. Don't shy away from the '09 CTS. It's prob what I'll buy next yr when the '06 comes off smartbuy.
  • So I went to the dealer this morning (Infiniti of South Bay) and took the technician for a drive. They had never heard of any other M35/45 having the issues I was experiencing which is no surprise - they don't want to admit there is a problem). During the test drive the car tramlined (as expected) but they said that that is normal driving characteristic of the M35.

    Dutifully, they checked the alignment and found nothing out of the ordinary and said that the grabby/wandering steering is typical of a "sport" model with 19" wheels and low profile tires, particularly on bumpy/uneven road surfaces. Unless Infiniti issues a technical bulletin they are not going to be doing any steering rack work. I also asked the service manager about gas mileage and he said that 14-15 MPG is typical of what they're seeing until the car is sufficiently broken in and after which it should get closer to 18 MPG (apparently 27K miles is not broken in enough).
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 960
    Your technician may not have heard of it, but your service manager should have been in the car with you. I suggest you drive a 2008 sport to see if it does the same thing. With stock tires and 19" wheels, it is, unfortunately, a common complaint.

    Ask to meet with the Infiniti service representive the next time he visits the dealer. Tell them that it is a safety concern...your wife drives the car and at times it jerks and is uncontrollable. Make them write that on the service ticket from today's visit...or make them write up a new ticket saying "customer concerned about safety. At times the car is uncontrollable when it catches a tar strip of similar in the road". Make sure that the infiniti rep sees that those words are on file.

    (note: at some point Infiniti is going to wind up in court on this issue due to an accident. With documentation such as I am suggesting, they will have a great deal of difficulty saying they were unaware of the issue).

    The tires really are the bulk of the problem and changing them seems to be a significant part of the solution. Not all the cars need a new steering rack, but you want to be on record, just in case you have a problem down the road.....and need an extended warranty repair.

    As far as gas mileage...your car is broken in. I got 16-17 on my 06 M35 and I only rarely floor it. Most of my driving is in a spralled out city with a fair number of lights. If I were in NY with lights at every corner, I would expect significantly less MPG. I always burn regular fuel. I now get about 19 on my 08 M35 (5000 miles) using regular with no ethanol which is available at a few local stations.
  • hi, barryend,

    You got the exactly same answer I got. It looks infiniti is trying to avoid this issue.
  • BMW540BMW540 Posts: 33
    I have a 06 M45 sport that has noticeable driveline whine at 40mph and 80 mph. The dealer states that this is a normal characteristic of the car. Anybody else notice this in their car?
    Bmw
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 960
    As always, when the service manager says "they all do that" or "that's normal", you say ok...let's find one in your used car lot and drive it just to verify that "they all do it" ....make him come with you. If he refuses, then ask to see the infiniti regional rep on his next pass thru the dealership and then take the infiniti service rep out driving with you.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I have a 06 M45 and when ever I adjust the steering wheel (up, down or telescope), it makes squeaking noises. Has anyone had this kind of issue? If anyone does, what is the fix?

    TIA
  • I forgot to add that when I saw the service manager last week they took me out in another '06 M35 Sport that was in for service (for some other issue I was told). It too showed the same grabby/wandering steering but all that really tells me is that the problem is pervasive to the '06s. Is anyone driving '07-'09s experiencing the same steering problem/defect or has Infiniti quietly fixed the issue in the newer models?
  • My 06 M35x did the same thing. The dealer lubricated it and it stopped for about a year, now it's starting to do it again, mostly when it's cold. Other than that, not sure what another fix might be.

    Alan
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Thanks. I will ask my dealer to lubricate it and see how long it will last...
  • can someone help, my seat will not lean forward, all the buttons are working, seat will go forward and back but the back rest will only move back, has anyone had this problem how did you fix it?
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Well, I take the car in this morning to have the steering wheel noise checked out - thought it just need to be lubricated or something,no biggie. This afternoon, got a call from the service adviser, the motor to move the steering wheel need to be replace and they ordered the parts, should be all good next Monday.

    While doing the inspection, they want to replace the coolant, tranny fluid, air filter and driving belts and stating there are some bad cracks on the belt. I know for a fact that the coolant was flushed 3 month ago and I myself replaced the air filter last month, I just basically declined all those service requests.

    Now, I am curious: Has anyone replace their driving belts? If you did, at what mileage & age of the car? It seems too early consider the car is only 3 years old and has about 43k miles on it.
  • my '07 M35 has 27k and the belts are making a squeaky noise - more so when cold. Dealer told me the pulleys were fine but I should think about replacing the belts for "a couple of hundred" bucks. At 27k !!?? Isn't it under warranty? Nope - wear part. I hate #$%^&-ing wear parts!

    Then he said, well if you get some belt stop-squeak spray at Pep Boys and spray it on the belts they'll quiet right up. They show no signs of wear so that's prob what I'll do.

    My experience with american cars is belts every 45-50k miles whether they show signs of wear or not. You don't want to get in the middle of tim-buck-too and have the altenator belt snap. Probably at night. If you're gonna keep it a while I'd say 43k is getting to the point of consideration. BUT if you can see cracks on the INSIDE of the belt or any fraying on the edges it's time to change them regardless of mileage. Rubber belts will degrade at different rates depending upon your climate, humidity, is it garaged every night or out in the weather ... this type of stuff.

    I'd be interested to know what they charge you, so let me know if you get it done.
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    I've been told that the reinforcing fibers inside the belt end up getting brittle as they age (fatigue from being flexed), and the belt can break with no obvious wear...so, follow the suggested time frame for replacment, regardless of what they look like.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Wow, that is strange. I had Nissan and Honda before and their belts do not need to be replaced until 105K (and Infiniti share parts with Nissan). As a matter of fact, I have a 10 years old Honda that the driving belts has never been replaced. Although there are a few cracks on the inside, they works fine. I do the same type of driving and keep all my cars in garage. So, I guess it is either Infiniti use inferior belts or the stealership is trying to make some profit out of us. :mad:
  • Speaking for myself, I will not do any major preventive maintenance until our 2007/M35 has between 50k-60k miles on it other then oil/filter and air cleaner. This has always been my practice since we started with Japanese cars some 30 years ago.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I agree with you. I normally just do the oil/filter and air filter until about 45K, then I replace coolant and brake fluid. By about 60K, have the tranny fluid, power steering fluid changed.

    Granted I do not keep cars as long (used to keep them for 10-12 years), but I have never need to replace the driving belts before 90K miles on Japanese cars. So, this seems fishy to me. I will have to look at the belts Monday to see what is going on.
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 960
    I agree with the other posters...check the serpantine belt and if it's not worn, it's more than likely OK. Also, if it does break, you won't hurt the engine (assuming you turn the car off before it overheats)...it will just be awkward explaining to the "meaningful other" why you didn't replace it as you are waiting for the flatbed tow truck.

    Don't use the belt spray...it's a temporary fix, at best. If you can't tighten the belts and get rid of fan belt noise, replace the belt.

    The only belt I change religiously when it's recommended is the timing belt. If that goes and you have an "interference" engine your engine will be destroyed. I don't know if the M35 or M45 are "interference" engines.
  • c5_4func5_4fun Posts: 59
    At the top of the front window where it meets the roof I have a black rubber seal that runs all the way across the front of the car. I noticed a big section of it is flush with the top of the window and the roof while other sections are pushed in and not flush where the window meets the roofline.The dealer said its normal, but I'm wondering where the water goes at the spots where the rubber is pushed down in the opening. Anyone else have this issue and more importantly, any problems with water leaks?
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    If you are talking about the M, then, no, it should not be pushed in. Mine is flushed all the way.

    What year and model is yours?
  • c5_4func5_4fun Posts: 59
    thanks. It's a 2006 M35x. I was going to walk a dealer lot and look at a few others as the dealer noted on my repair note that it was a "normal condition".
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I see. Mine is 2006 as well (M45 though, but oth.er than the engine, it should be the same). So, it is definitely not normal. Have it checked out while it is still under warranty.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Well, the other day, my wife bought me a few music CDs and I like them, so I thought I will put them in the CD player (6 CD changer with MP3). But, the strange thing is: some of them will not play and show a message: "Track information not available" while the others plays just fine.

    I thought it might be the slot, so I swapped them and didn't make any difference. The ones works still works and the ones doesn't doesn't. I can play ALL of them in my regular CD player at home, so all CDs are good CD.

    So, is there any trick that I am not aware or is there a work around?
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