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Honda Ridgeline Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You need to have a Honda place 'pull the codes'. The computer is turning this light on because some sensor is receiving values outside its correct boundaries.

    Wild, wild guess would be something in the transmission.

    Does the 'D' display, the little light that indicates your are in drive 'flash' when you are driving? On many Hondas, if the D flashes, the computer is indicating there is a transmission problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Plus, for a 2007, if you are under 36,000 miles, this Ridgeline is still under warranty. If so, why don't you have it at a dealer?
  • ljc2tallljc2tall Posts: 9
    It only has 11000 miles on it. The last time I was at the dealer they told me that they might not be able to pull up the code. So I should bring it in when the lights are on. Well this morning both lights were on ,this afternoon only the engine light was on. Tonight neither light was on. All so the dealer is 50 plus miles away and I can not just run up there anytime. Iwas wondering if anyone else was having this problem. On my last Honda (crv) I had a similar problem and it was a bad sensor in the fuel tank.
    Thank you for your replies,
    Ken
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's under warranty. Take it to the dealer and tell them to fix it.

    Not being able to pull 'recent' codes is BS. Codes are stored in 'history' until several start/stop cycles have passed. Some codes will stay in history for long periods.
  • Had a weird situation yesterday (21 Nov 08). Driving my 06 RL and all was okay, made several stops at stores and started right up. Oops VSA light came on, stopped, turned off engine and restared it, light did not come back on. Went to store (wife went in) and I stayed in truck to read manual for the VSA light.
    Ready to leave and go home....oh, oh...truck would not start, acted like a dead battery, checked all connections under hood, ok, no corrosion, battery water ok, no indications that it should be dead. Called Honda dealership, said it was probably the immobilizer. Per the manual it acted like the symptoms there too.
    Would not start and finally went dead, lost nav and FX radio codes...etc. Son in law insisted on giving me a jump, hooked up for just a sec, it started like nothing was wrong and started later last night and this morning...no indication of dead/weak battery. Anyone else have this happen to them or similiar situation.

    Thanks,

    Otto
  • I have a 2006 Ridgeline I live in the Southeast coast in Daytona Beach FL and have bad rust all around the door seals. The local rep blames ME for this and says I live in an area prone to this. I am furious and Honda North America will not assist me. I had it repaired by Honda in 2007 and it came back 6 weeks later. Please check your truck you have to look closely at the door around the seals and weld joints. :mad:
  • I struck my right side mirror pulling into my garage and the mirror (glass) broke. I do not have a dealership close to me, so I researched parts on-line. To my surprise, it appears I can just replace the mirror (cheap) without replacing the entire mirror assembly (expensive).

    My question is, do anyone know how to get the assembly apart to just replace the glass?

    Thanks,
  • Finally had a chance to get my ridgeline in to the shop when the engine amd vtm-4 light was on. They diagnoised it as a bad relay that is common to the engine and vtm-4 light. Alls well for now. But as I was driving over there on the rough winter roads I started to hear a clunking in the right rear. Maybe its the start of something else.
  • lem888lem888 Posts: 7
    See my earlier post (#380 I think). For me, the clunking was a defective strut assembly.
  • zach3zach3 Posts: 3
    I've experienced that clunking or wheel pulsing in the right rear area a few times as well and it always seems to be during the winter months. Can't find exactly what causes it, but I believe it may have something to do with snow or ice build up in that area. It never lasts long and it has never caused me enough concern to take it in.
  • I have a 2006 honda ridgeline and i have had 22 inch rims on it for at least a year and they have been taken off a couple of times to go out of town. We just put the originals back on and now my truck makes this horrible noise and vibrates when in drive but its normal in reverse and in park.. I need some help :) :confuse:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Google for:

    wwest abolition hesitation -dfg

    For all you might ever want to know about the re-acceleration downshift delay in these newer, post 1998, FWD and F/awd transaxles.

    Ford has a breakthrough solution in that they have adopted a variable displacement ATF oil pump for the Edge while everyone else seems to be stuck trying to get drivers to adapt to their "future intent" detection technique.

    Release, Fully Release, the gas pedal FAST/QUICKLY/RAPIDLY and the engine/transaxle ECU control firmware will "judge" (assume..??) that your intent is to slow using engine compression braking and thereby remain in the lower gear you were just using for acceleration, low to MODERATE acceleration. On the other hand ease up on the gas pedal slowly and the ECU will command an upshift.

    Once that upshift is (inadvertently) commanded it MUST be completed before a downshift can be commanded and now with the engine idling and the new HIGHLY EFFICIENT ATF real time line pressure control system there will not be enough fluid pressure in reserve to complete a second sequential gear shift/change.

    So DBW is used to delay the onset of rising engine torque until the required downshift can be completed.

    1-2 second downshift delays are being reported as typical.
  • encarlencarl Posts: 1
    My 2007 ridgeline windshield crack. Its a straight crack originating at the left side progessing toward the center. I took it to two dealers, Cerritos and Downey and said its from a rock. I disagree because the crack is clean and have no spider type impact. Is there anybody suggest how to go about getting an honest opinion.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What does the cause of the crack matter?

    Are you trying to warranty this?

    If so, what Honda says is what you are interested in.

    Otherwise, you should be interested in what your insurance says.
  • jpm150jpm150 Posts: 1
    Did you ever get any advice on how to replace the mirror glass? Mine got whacked and simply popped out without even scratching the plastic mirror assembly so I'd like to just replace the glass. Also I can't seem to turn up a mirror glass replacement for my Ridgeline -- just the entire mirror assembly. Do you remember where you bought your glass?
  • I have a 2006 Ridgeline w/ a little over 60k on it and about a month ago I started hearing this creaking sound from underneath in the rear, both sides. It got worse as time went by and now when you drive slow or go over a bump you really hear it, on the interstate it is quiet. Never had this problem with any other cars before, have an 02 VW Passat and it's as smooth as when I got it....Hmmmmm, thought Honda's were the cream of the crop in comparison to a VW. Anyone else have this problem or any suggestions of a self help fix, don't see anything underneath that's rusted.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Your main struts (shock absorbers) may be going/gone. Ridgelines have known problems with these.
    Or, there are links on the front anti-sway bars to also cause problems. I'm not sure if these are also on the rear.

    A good alignment/suspension shop should be able to quickly find the source of a noise like this.
  • lem888lem888 Posts: 7
    Check out my earlier posting #380. For me, it wasn't a creaking sound, but more of a "thunk". In any event, the dealer replaced the strut assembly (under warranty) and all was well. It seems like these assemblies are trouble.

    Good luck.
  • Thanks guys for the info, I'll have it checked out. :)
  • jcglenjcglen Posts: 1
    I don't mean to be a complainer/cry baby.
    Putting gas in one day I noticed that there is RUST in the lower seam of the compartment where the inner metal boot that the gas tank fill tube is in meets the outer body. Now this is a seam where two metals over lap one another, I would think welded together I don't know.
    I took it to the body shop for some answers and they said to do it properly the whole quarter panel would need to be replaced because of the thin metal used in the body. At the same time they asked if I had taken it to the Honda dealer....DUR I felt like a total dip. So my next stop was the dealer pulled into service was greeted by one of the service manager's and showed him the situation nicely. Just so happens there was a Honda reagonal rep there so he came out to look took pictures then returned to the office. The service mgr came back to inform me that honda will fix the problem probably by grinding it down and painting it. This might look good now but what are the chances of it returning again, and if it does what would be my options then.

    So I have two questions:
    1. Is grinding the way to go? Or try to push for proper panel replacement.
    2. Should Honda loan me a loaner car to get to work and back?

    This my transportation truck to work and after all it's not my fault the truck started rusting. I don't know I'm just a man of principle I guess.
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