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Honda Ridgeline Maintenance and Repair

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  • jhnfrmrjhnfrmr Posts: 2
    This is when I make a left or Right turn while rolling if stopped and cut wheels and give it a little gas it won't do it but if it goes over 5 mph it does but only then I'm a little concerned I'll take to dealer cause everyone else doesn't know I thought again it may need greasing but there's no fittings on the front to grease! I hope to hear more it's been doing since about 65000 I got 102000 I love the truck and plan on keeping to start my refrideration buisness but in school so I hope it's not an expensive fix!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Mine 'rattles' a little when turning and hit a rough part of street. Many Ridgelines are known to have problems with the struts. Turning on a smooth street and and straight line at high speed (even hitting potholes), I don't have any noise at 43,000 miles.

    Car and Driver, or one of the magazines, blew out the struts on a new Ridgeline when they did a 'test drive'. I'm not sure exactly how many miles they drove it on a rough dirt road, but it wasn't a lot. Something like 100 miles or so. At 45mph or so. And the struts were leaking, gone.
  • My Question Is: Are there any widely reported/known ignition problems in the 2007 Ridgeline? My narrative/pertinent information follows.
    I started my truck ('07 Ridgeline) to go to the store-no problems starting. I stopped at a gas station on my way. I got back in the truck-started fine no problems. I went to the store and was inside for 15 minutes at most. I came back out and turned the key in the ignition and nothing. I released the key from 'Start' so it would flip back to the 'Run' position and when I let the ignition flip back to 'Run' the Tachometer needle began making a 'rumbling' sound as the needle jumped up and down rapidly between 0-1. I tried several more times with the same result each time. Each time I turned the key there was no 'Click' of the starter, which usually points to battery problems. Each time I released the key from 'Start' to 'Run' the Tach needle rumbled and shook/jumped rapidly between 0-1. The only indicators that illuminated on the gauge panel were the Emergency Brake indicator, the 'VSA' indicator and one more that I cannot remember at the moment (I do remember thinking the 3rd indicator was unimportant and would have nothing to do with ignition). I live a few blocks from the store so I came home to get a second vehicle and Jumper Cables and see if that does it. I wanted to post this on here before I go back to jump it in case it does not work and hopefully I'll have some more information to go with by then. I thought it could be the Coil and/or Distributor cap & rotor. However, it has been so long since I've worked on my own vehicles or even looked under the hood regularly that I'm not even sure what modern ignition systems consist of anymore (it is slightly shameful, but you reach that age when crawling in/under/over/through/around your vehicles becomes more of an embarrassing physical spectacle that leaves you sore, stiff and hobbled for 3 days after, than an actual successful repair/maintenance expedition). Also, the reason I buy newer Honda vehicles is so I don't have to deal with this type of problem. I'm too old and lazy to work on my vehicles anymore. One final bit of information: I just had my truck serviced a month ago at the dealership and it was basically a tune-up/oil change/preventative maintenance job ($700). So I am a bit concerned that this may be more than a simple battery problem. Try not to laugh too hard when I confessed that it has been a long time since I worked on my cars and that I'm not sure what ignitions even consist of. I earned the right to be lazy after spending the first 30 years of married/family life maintaining/fixing everything on all of our vehicles and house, to make sure we could save and provide for our children's educations. I joke-I can take the mockery!
  • That is easy. You need a new battery. Jumping needles are a common problem with a weak battery
  • spaafspaaf Posts: 1
    I was in Florida last week and notice my passenger side mats was wet. By the time I drove back to Washington DC, I was in several rain storms. The driver and passenger side both got wet. I used a wet vacuum and pulled more than a gallon of water from the carpet and floor mats. This water problem has been going on for many models now. Is there a fix for this problem or is it time to trade?
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    According to discountacparts.com:
    "Your compressor failed for a reason. The number 1 reason is contamination in the system. Cleaning out this contamination is crucial to ensuring that the new compressor is not also contaminated. Always flush and evacuate before changing parts. Always use A/C system flush solvent. If it is not perfectly clean after the flush and vacuum, we recommend re-flushing the system."

    My Atlanta Honda dealer botched my A/C system repair by initially just installing a new compressor and running the system to note poor performance. Only then did they inspect the accumulator/drier (replacement of this part is REQUIRED by every compressor manufacturer as part of the warranty) and noted it was leaking desiccant balls and other black junk into the system. THEN they decided to flush only the evaporator line and replace the clogged dryer and also the contaminated condensor (the A/C radiator at the front of the car, often difficult to flush). This is noted right on my invoice! The invoice doesn't mention cleaning or replacing the expansion valve nor purging the other line - things any half-trained A/C technician would have done. Obviously, my new compressor now has it's oil flooded with seven years of accumulated black crud. So I just paid $1,800 for a brand new compressor which WILL fail prematurely.

    I have a case open with Honda corporate to see what they can do given that the repair ddn't follow the Honda's - or anyone's - service procedures. You have to watch your dealer closely to ensure they perform the A/C repair correctly. The warranty on the repair will be only 90-days labor / 12 -months parts so, if the new compressor fails again within a year, you get to hassle with them all over again on the labor. After a year, you're just out another $1,500-$1,800.
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    Honda got back to me regarding my case. I had faxed them Denso’s warranty on their compressors (requires system purging and dryer replacement or the warranty is immediately void) along with industry articles describing the importance of thoroughly cleaning A/C systems to avoid contaminating a new compressor. I faxed them a copy of the Honda Service Bulletin showing the easy and very inexpensive alternative to the dealer’s suggested $480 power steering pump rebuild to cure a minor noise issue. I explained how the Service Advisor switched from protesting AGAINST additional work that would be wise (but would have required him to come in on his day off OR split his commission with someone else) to pushing unnecessary and over-priced work the next day (once he was resigned to protecting his commission by coming in on his day off, the Service Advisor wanted to make it damned worth his while). I explained how the dealer tried to charge me 8.976111 shop hours (a plugged number they made up) before they backed off their “mistake” and cut the labor charge by 40%.

    Bottom line: Honda said repairing a contaminated A/C system just by replacing one part at a time was “proper”. The attempted over-charges and commission wrangling are solely between me and the dealership. Honda suggested I contact the dealership Service Manager again to see if he can explain what they had previously refused to explain. In a word, Honda offered me NOTHING.

    If you’re looking for Honda dealer service in downtown Atlanta, you’d be wise to go far North (Woodstock, Georgia) or far South (Morrow, Georgia) instead. Even then, ask in advance to insure that your Service Advisor will be working the next day too in case your car needs to stay overnight. If anyone quotes you a price over the phone, get their full name to avoid hassles over service prices and commissions. Better yet, find a small, local shop who works off their reputation and repeat customers.
  • bkdrakebkdrake Posts: 1
    Bought a 2006 RTL new. Within a year I was replacing the power steering pump under warranty. Exactly 1000 miles after warranty, it went out again. Honda replaced it under warranty again. As I write this, the truck is having the steering rack replaced - NOT cheap! Other issues have been premature replacement of brakes, the seat heater stopped working at 40K, the digital odometer stops working intermittently. I am VERY easy on vehicles, never abused, never off-road. Just freeway miles on the wet roads of the Pacific Northwest. This is by far the most expensive vehicle to maintain that I have ever had. I'd dump it now if I could afford to. Anyone else with similar issues?
  • jesserkjesserk Posts: 4
    The issues with my 2006 in the cab are due to an excessive amount of dust coming into the cab. CD player was replaced and a week later it stopped working again. They would not replace it. Seatbelts have been replaced numerous times due to dust in the retraction mechanism. Dome lights have to be taken apart constantly to remove the dust to get them to work again. I had the side airbags deploy from hitting a pothole which i am convinced was due to dust causing it to malfunction. I had leather seats treated from new with lifetime warranty from the seats wrinkling or cracking, and they will not replace seat covers because they say that the dust caused it. They will not do anything or even admit they have a dust problem. In dry conditions it would be cleaner to ride in a convertible. As for the steering!! My truck steered hard from new. I thought that was just the way they are. After warranty was up a Honda mechanic drove my truck to check out another issue and came back and asked what was wrong with my steering. He said that there was something wrong, but Honda did nothing for me. Honda's customer service is bar none the WORST that I have ever experienced. And I feel your pain about dumping it. I spent alot of money on this vehicle new and cannot afford to dump it either. I will never buy another Honda product again. Very disappointed.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    About your dust issue. I, and probably all Ridgeline owners, have this problem. And just recently in cold weather people riding in the back seat complained about cold air coming in around, under the rear seat.

    Anyway, there is a solution. I almost always drive with the climate control in 'recirculate' option. Second buttom on bottom row pushed, and light on the button lites up.

    I would think having it in 'recirculate' mode would be best to keep dust and cold air out. This is NOT the case. Do not run it in recirculate mode, and if you are driving on a dusty road, turn the fan UP. With the fan running fast, it will push air back out of whatever holes the dust is leaking in, and reduce the dust a lot.

    I don't know the exact place the dust comes in, but this is a Ridgeline problem. I still run in recirculate while on paved roads because I think not bringing in outside hot air in the summer means the AC will operate better. But, if you hit a dirt road, get it off recirculate and turn the fan up to a faster speed.
  • dokroxdokrox Posts: 2
    On my 2006 Ridgeline I had a problem with water coming up into the floor boards. We live on the Oregon coast where there is plenty of rain. Our dealer took it to a body shop and they discovered that the body underneath was not welded properly and hence there were gaps where water could come in. They welded these openings in two tries and the problem went away. Perhaps in dusty conditions the dust in coming up through those same gaps and, of course, cold air.
  • jesserkjesserk Posts: 4
    Thx for the info. I always drive with the fan system on fresh air and have the fan on high. This still does not help. Honda told me that there are holes in the kick plate right under the doors that go from the outside into the cab. So when dust comes off the front tires it goes in through the holes. Basically the inside of the cab is like the inside of a vaccum cleaner. This is if you have a window open. If you keep them closed, then the road dust gets in these holes and sits there. If you open the window while driving, after having them closed for a long period of time, the dust blasts in the cab. I tried this and there was so much dust in the cab that I couldn't see out the window and had to pull over. I opened all the doors so the cross wind could blow the dust out. It looked like my truck was on fire. Honda does know about this and their comment was that this is how the vehicle was designed and this is normal. I even have anti lock brakes malfuctioning occasionally and I attest all issues with this truck to the dust problem. Seat belts also malfunction due to dust in the lock mechanism. They won't do anything until it is too late and someone gets seriously injured or ill, or even worse. Then it will be too late. I have a 1968 pickup that doesn't get dust in the cab like my Honda and it only retailed at $1900.00 not $40,000.00 plus like my Honda. Disgusting!!! They should be ashamed of themselves.
  • gd12gd12 Posts: 2
    I have had a similar experience with my 2007 Ridgeline. Once in March and again today, when attempting to start the truck it appears as if there is no power whatsoever. If you turn on and off the headlights and then attempt to start, the power is back and the truck starts as usual. The residual problem is that the radio won't operate until a special code through a special procedure of button pushing (which the dealer talked me through) is entered. Other than that there appear to be no negative side effects.

    Because the shop can't repair a vehicle that is operational, I will probably have to wait until is stays dead or someone responds to this forum with some ideas on what the cause may be.

    Gary
  • gd12gd12 Posts: 2
    I found the apparent cause of the two power failures - the positive battery terminal clamp was loose. The tightening bolt/nut assembly was as tight as it could go, but the terminal still slid around on the post. I added a shim between the post and the terminal clamp and now it is tight.

    Gary
  • ljc2tallljc2tall Posts: 9
    I have a 2007 Ridgeline. Only have 42000 miles on it. It has developed a creaking sound in the rear suspension. Actually in the center of the vehicle. At slow speeds on rough roads it is very prominent. It does not appear to be coming from the struts. Anyone else experience this?
    Ken
  • lem888lem888 Posts: 7
    I had the same problem a few years ago on my 2006 Ridgeline. It was the strut assembly and the dealer replaced it - I forget if it was under warranty or was a recall of some kind.
  • keef3keef3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline and I have a strange creaking sound at the rear end of the truck. The sound happens when I drive it normally on the street. To trouble shoot the problem I stand in the back of truck and jump up and down to simulate driving conditions. I have my mechanic listen under the truck and we can not find the squeak or creak. If there is a recall how do I get Honda involved? Is the strut assembly the creak? Is the strut the shock absorber? I don't think that's covered.....Who can help?
  • ljc2tallljc2tall Posts: 9
    I had the same problem this spring. I posted a question here but the only response was the one before your post.
    My problem stopped after I took my trailer with a full load of wood down the road. Not sure if a rock had gotten wedged in the suspension or just what it was. But it is gone now.
    I also jumped up and down on the bumper and was able to make it creak.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My 2006 Ridgeline clunks and rattles in the front, in slow turns over rough pavement.

    I would replace the struts, but there are also rubber mounts that might be the problem. I would hate to order the struts and replace when it's the mounts instead.

    I just remembered something from many years back. I sprayed silicone all over the rear spring mounts of some old car and cured squeaks. I might try this on my truck.

    It seem like Ridgelines have various problems and noises with both from and rear strut assemblies.
  • keef3keef3 Posts: 2
    ..I needed to jack up the truck and look around myself....I had a can of spray silicon and while I was spraying I found the creak. There are two short rods attached to each side of the rear assembly....they are about a foot long and the left side rod was broken and had become lodged against the inner wheel well. As the rear assembly moves the rod would rub and squeak....until I replace the rod I moved the part away from where it made the noise.....
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