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What disappoints me is that when you manually select the gears...the TL transmission is so refined that it just drops into the gear so seamlessly when gearing up in a sprint. Just like it shifts so effortlessly in auto. So you don't get that 'pop' of surge as you do with a pure manual as the TL is just so darn well tuned. Just doesn't get my heart racing with how it drops into gears as it is too silky smooth...however you could get some major pop when gearing down with that huge 270hp engine.
I agree that it would be great if you are climbing up a hill and if the car hunts between gears.
I have a feeling that the sequential shifting feature will be the achilles heels of the upcoming Lexus IS350...which I understand is only offered in automatic with sequential shift. For those that want manual tranny....it will be a huge disappointment how it drops effortlessly into gear.
I am with a 8 mile commute. I see the first 3 is where I get lower than 20mpg...then it creeps up so I get my 25mpg. I say the car is tuned to where it is just optimal after warmup.
Trust me, my commute is pure city!
The timed lights work all day in San Francisco, and most drivers drive the limit.
"...and then you have to deal with those moronic zig zagging bastards....'
My wife says not to call her those nasty names! :P She claims she zig zags to get away from the real morons!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Paranoid about my gas mileage, I've noticed a high pitched whine from the transmission. Had it checked out at the dealer but was told "that noise is normal from a 6 speed."
Anybody else notice the high pitched whine from your manual transmission?
What kind of math is that? 8-19 should equal -11. Nick, have you been drinking again? :P
All the gasoline arrives in your area via the same pipeline. Every "brand" loads up with gasoline from this pipeline. Some put in their own additives but some add nothing at all. They then deliver the gasoline to the stations. None are more 'refined' than the other.
I personally do prefer Chevron for the Techron additive.
I figure leaving 2 gals is good enough...why not.
I have also heard that all the gasoline arrives in an area via the same pipeline...and that is what confuses me. What I don't understand is that there are various branded refineries. For instance...when I drive near L.A. I see the ARCO refinery...seen Chevron...etc. So if the various brands have their own refinery...how does it get segregated?
Also...what I really don't get is how my MPG varies amongst the brands. Why when I use Costco brand does my MPG suffer by 3 mpg. Why Chevron gives me 1mpg more than Shell. Is it the additives? Don't know.
Does anyone here have a primer for me to understand how the whole gasoline transport process work and how does mpg vary amongst brands?
You mean you have not reset your trip computer for 8k miles. I can hardly go a tank before resetting. Excellent information.
Do you get better on straight highway?
I consistently get 31-32 at 70 mph over several hunderd miles and even better on my commute (all expressway 60 mph). 5 speed auto.
I have thought I should have waited for the almost rare if not non existent 6 speed manuals but with the price the same--I imagine most 6 speed owners will get less money for their cars.
Keep in mind I do not touch the brake for 24 miles and road is fairly flat and speed steady.
On times I do not reset, I consistantly average 30 or above as verified by fill ups.
I am very pleased with this. But as yesterday it was nice to hit 80 mph in nothing flat to pass the garbage truck on the hill. The TL has some guts, you should have seen the mpg go down on just that move.
Anyway, overall pleased with mpg and I suspect the TL is a highway cruiser and pure city or mostly city is in the teens.
Anyone else able to make these kind of fuel economy runs. And my TL has the Michelin Tires which I had traded off a NAVI. I think the BS tires are less efficient, noisy and hydroplane. I have about 34 psi in them.
Basically the car gets its worst mileage in the first 3 miles...when it is warming up. But that is to be expected from all cars. That phase...basically below 20mpg on the streets and low 20's if on the freeway.
Once it is past 10 miles...the freeway mpg gets 35mpg on the freeway w/o air and 32mpg w/ air.
I don't know if I would over-inflate the tires...as you would chew up your tires sooner and negate any mpg savings.
The car treated me better than the destination.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
[ (9 days / 7 days) x 27mpg in the past ]
Off topic, what's up with the change holder? It loses the change down into the lower compartment every time. You'd think they'd have fixed that by now. No other complaints.
Secondly will use of regular or 89 octane badly affect the car in terms of life, performance and MPG. Can i switch between fuel grades? I would really appreciate some feedback on this.
thanks..
As for switching between fuel grades. I am not a chemical engineer...but I don't think that if you mix equally 91 and 89 octane you would obtain an average of 90 octane. Does anyone know regarding that?
If the fuel has a low octane, and the engine has a high compression ratio, then the fuel will combust BEFORE the cylinder reaches its highest point (ie BEFORE the spark plug ignites), due to the pressue in the cylinder at that position, thus causing less fuel efficiency, and eventual long term damge due to the exhaust in that cylinder being forced out of valves that are not yet opened.
Putting high octane fuel into a low compression engine that has low mileage has little to no effect.
But engines these days have detonation sensors, oxygen sensors, throttle sensors and more. All of these sensors relay information to the computer, and the computer adjusts the air/fuel mixture and the timing to keep the engines from detonating. The short term effect of this is that the engine will just have worse perfomance. However, when one sensor goes bad, we are back to an engine with too much squeeze for the quality of the fuel that's available.
In a well used car, tired cooling systems, old sensors, and engine deposits will cause the low octane fuel to combust sooner than it should, thus causing the valves to "ping". Ping is caused by the explosion happening before the valves are open, and you hear the explosion hitting the valve. Simply using higher octane fuel will reduce the pinging. This works for my 1990 Accord which has 270,000 miles on it. Honda's seem to have a greater tendancy to ping as they age, and often people think something is wrong with engine, when in fact this is a common occurance.
I got blasted on HAH forum yesterday for posting my feathered driving MPG results. When I go for mpg I drive like granny galore but the results are amazing.
First I got rid of BS Turanza EL 42s and switched with Michelin Pilots which are standard on the NAVI (charge was $80 when new). Next I changed oil at 3k with Castrol 5w20 syntec which is a slippery fuel efficient oil.
My results are fairly consistent. I have a 25 mile communte (expressway no lights and no brakes till I turn into work in tulsa. I drive on flat following the Arkasas River.
55 mph cruise 41-42 mpg over 20 miles after warmup. I did this to vindicate myself this morning.
65 mph cruise yields 38 mpg over same 20 miles
76 mph on the turnpike over 100 miles yields 32-34 depending on AC usage, wind etc
Trip to MD in my 04 TL< now a 05 (a whole other story)
2000 miles and got 33 mpg with those nasty BS Turanaza tires which lost me 1 mpg at least. They hydroplane easily.
City driving is not the TL's best showing. My wife can drop a 32 mpg average to 22 mpg with one or two of her trips. I have quit trying to change her driving habits
Bottom line, if you own a TL it has tremendous potential for mpg. Even at 80 mph on turnpike when I just want to get home 30-31 is easily done. Maybe the TL is a hybrid.
If a city driver none of this will make sense to you as that mileage sucks.
Yes....I find it amazing a 270 hp car can get well over 30mph on the highway and still get low 20s city. I average out about 27mpg mixed.
As a comparison...What turned me off from the G35 which will get less than 15mpg mixed and the owners I have talked to are thrilled when they get 20mpg on the highway.
The lowest mpg I get is during the 3 mile warm-up...so that is where the tl owners should attempt to consolidate trips.
What you are describing here is PRE-IGNITION, not detonation. The problem with low-octane fuel is that it burns FASTER than high-octane fuel. It's ignited by the spark plug but burns so fast it causes the familiar rattle or pinging. It's more like a sudden explosion than a smooth burn. And the exhaust is not forced out of the closed valves unless they already leak.
The proof is in the fact that the computer controls you described retard the ignition...they don't reduce the compression ratio. If the problem were caused by the fuel igniting before the plug fires, retarding the timing would have no effect.
It will take getting used to coming from a car that got 29 city.