Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

1990 BMW 735iL Questions and Upgrades?



  • looking for tranny 735 il and CE unit for tranny!

    Or Bmw for sale for parts all but tranny work
    will sell engine seperately and body seperately
    727482 1738 or cansomeone sell me a CE unit for my
    transmission. engine runs good very good if you have problems with other than tranny this is you ticket
    $3000 for whole or 1500 for engine and 1500 for shell
    wheels and bloupunk stereo also for sale
  • carman40carman40 Posts: 1
    I could use some help putting in the code to the radio in my 89 735iL. Also, I have a trunklid open and Brake LT circuit + message on the dash board? could anyone help out? Would really appreciate your replies if you have an idea.


  • Wow, having same exact problem on my 735il. At first could solve by disconnecting battery but now that doesn't work. Only solution now is to blast radio.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    I'm guessin' a bad bit of wiring/coupler/connector in the trunk wiring harness. Something is "grounding" out or dropping voltage.


  • I had a braking problem were I ended up in a front end accident because of the faulty performance in the brake system. A slowing down as opposed to a quick stop. I thought it might be a problem with the ABS system in this earlier model year. Has anyone had similar braking problems, seen any bulletins, or have ideas on making performance work reasonably better?
  • dgraggdgragg Posts: 2
    recline the back seat about one inch there is a small button(it's hard to see) in the middle it's a little tricky but once you've done it it gets easier if your battery is dead i'd put jumpers on it or you'll need a screwdriver to push the button and it can be a real pain
  • dgraggdgragg Posts: 2
    with the ac on i get cold air on the driver and hot air for the passenger both controls are at 65 degrees
  • fearvofearvo Posts: 2
    hi there, i am considering buying one of these for $3500 new zealand dollars, the only thing i can see reasonably wrong is these apears to be some oil leakage. ARE THESE CARS NOTORIOUS FOR OIL LEAKS FROM THE MAIN SEALS? or is there another issue?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Pretty good cars all in all. You might watch out for AC/Heat problems (test these functions!!) and if you feel a vibration in the car when you start off, that's the driveshaft, which IS notorious. But that engine is great.

    Good cars, but don't buy a "fixer-upper".


  • fearvofearvo Posts: 2
    thank for that advise. we DID get the car and are amazed with it. It has plenty of alzhiemers issues what with warnings and all that..... when i turn the lights on a warning on the dash says "tail light" "side light" any idea to which this may refer? i cant see anything wrong with these lights they work like normal... is it just that the wiring gets a bit confused after twenty years do you think?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    edited March 2010
    That's a typical 735 problem. You should fish back there and see if you have corroded wiring or dirty contacts. The sensor is just getting a high resistance reading. You could even swap in new bulbs and see what happens.

    This is why you don't see German electronics at Best Buy :P


  • As for all battery Q's... Weather rear seats are power or not. The passenger side rear seat contains the battery. Remove the buttons and side panel on the seat. directly under the seat belt reciver is a 13mm bolt. Remove that and move the seat all the way forward. Now to the front side of the seat. There is a small black tab in the center under the seat. You have to pull it all the way out and pull up and out on the seat. FYI.... It's not so easy to put it back. 30 min start to finish.
  • From time to time my 90 e32's battery will drain completely over night. I jump it and as soon as it warms up it sputters very bad. If I turn it off and attempt to restart it... It says NO WAY!!!! Stinks like fuel and cranks and cranks but won't start. I replaced plugs, wires and coil. I don't get it. And I refuse to pay the dealer for something I can do. I must be missing something. Any ideas????
  • pennylaneapennylanea Posts: 3
    i had the 1989 735i that only had less than 50k on it. It belong to some old rich woman that prefered to use the limo. It has a Mag mile sticker on it. Im in chicago.
    My son 32 yrs old has been working on restoring cars since he was 13 he loved this car and got it in perfect condition. The inside was beautiful even the mats looked un used. The body was beautiful no rust at all.
    Well to our horror a semi truck ran on top of it and crushed it to the ground. Hurt my son and his friend. :sick: The truckers insurance wants to only give me $4,000.00. I have been in such stress about the whole thing. I refused the offer but I dont know how to prove its worth alot more.
    Maybe you know?
    please email me at
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    You should be able to get more for the car if you handle the situation correctly. You can approach this two ways:

    1. You can refuse their offer and demand X dollars, showing proof from ads and price guides. You can't just pick a number out of the air. You need to base it on something.

    2. Perhaps a better way is to hire an appraiser who can look at the remains, look at your receipts, etc. and blend it all together in a professional appraisal which is then submitted to the trucking company.

    If neither of those works, you can sue them in Small Claims Court up to the amount allowed by Small Claims in your jurisdiction.

    Depending on how nice the car was, it's possible you could justify asking between $5000--$7500. Any more than that isn't going to happen IMO.


  • pennylaneapennylanea Posts: 3
    I saw one online less as nice as mine was for 13k. I did refuse the offer and I will take them to small claims court. Thanks for your input. I appreciate it very much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    edited May 2010
    13K is simply not supportable by evidence. Asking prices are nothing more than a seller exercising his First Amendment rights.

    If you present a radical value, they will stonewall you, and I don't blame them actually, for insisting on proof of value.

    The market price is based on points of sale, not upon what someone puts into a car, unfortunately.

    The whole purpose of insurance, and in fact what it was meant to do, was to "make you whole" by giving you enough money to replace the car with one in like kind and condition.

    That is, legally, what you are entitled to IMO.


  • pennylaneapennylanea Posts: 3
    2 bmw here in Chicago just like mine sold for 10k. I dont know what your talking about. Im not trying to rip of the insurance company. but never mind dont need your advice anymore Im talking to an apraisal
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Well I'm just telling you what to expect. $10K is probably not a realistic expectation given how insurance settlements work. You can buy a year 2000 7-series for that money. Of course, you can ask whatever you want, and I hope you get it. Good luck.


Sign In or Register to comment.