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Mazda5 Owners Care & Maintenance

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  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    gladly. we bought in March 2006 and now have 26,000 miles. I like the handling, maneuverability, nimble driving feel, cheap price, lots of features and gadgets, quiet engine for a 4 cylinder. I don't like only black interior, small inside rear view mirror, small rear window, wiper lever works "upside down", key fob feels flimsy, cubby holes are the wrong shape and in the wrong places (need handier storage for long thin things like maps and sunglass cases). I wanted even more gadgets, like 6 speed MT, LH/RH separate hvac thermostats, heated mirrors, heated seats, stability control. I actually would have bought a Mazdaspeed5 were there such a thing and it had a sunroof.
  • mrbwa1mrbwa1 Posts: 42
    whobodym,

    What do you mean by "the wiper lever works upside down"? Just curious, is it works exactly the same and the wiper lever in our Toyota ECHO. I definitely agree about the cubbies in the 5. Again, that ECHO has spoiled us, but it would be nicer to have a few more cubbies. At least the glover box is freakishly large; techinchally the space is in the dash behind the glovebox. We currently have the Gigantic Manual, a power inverter, pluse a few other things back there with room to spare.

    We have the Auto-Dimming/Compass mirror and it is nice and large, so perhaps that is a worthwhile options for others to consider.

    As far as our first year goes ('07 Sport, Auto), thing are very nice.

    Dislikes:

    -Plastic "metallic" trim around the controls and shifter. scratched and gouges too easiy

    -Can be a little loud on the Highway with the OEM tires. Ironically our Snow tires seem quieter

    -A little more storage space would be nice. I have prescription sunglasses and need a spot to hold my glasses case in case a switchover is needed.

    Likes:

    -Quiet, Strong 4-cyl Engine (prenty of pull on a 2-lane highway with 4 adults onboad

    -Flexible Interior. Easy to reconfigure for people/stuff. Enough room for a real person, esp with a child in the middle. Car seats are fairly easy to install as well.

    -Respectable Fuel Economy. Returning 25-25.5 MPG in 50/50 driving in the middle of winter. My 30+ MPG ECHO is only giving 26MPG this winter, wheras the 5 seems unaffected. (well I secretly hope that summer will bring more like 30MPG in the 5 as well.

    -Responsive handling. She really drives like a sports sedan, albeit a tall one. I've driven a 3 and the 5 isn't quite as sharp, but handles nearly as well if you push. It'll lean a bit into a corner, but still turn in nicely if you keep going.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Re the wiper lever, I'm a Honda loyalist so I expect a downwards push on the lever to give one swipe of wipers then off. Mazda does this going upwards instead, and down gives the always-on positions. I suppose I can get used to it, but it still annoys after 2 years.
  • mrbwa1mrbwa1 Posts: 42
    Ahhh... sorry to hear about the wiper lever. I guess I haven't driven enough Hondas. I used to work for Enterprise Rental and drove a lot of cars (no Hondas though) and all the wipers always used up for the swipe (if available). That is one of those annoying little quirks that I wish car manufacturers would agree on.
  • mdchachimdchachi Posts: 275
    The problem seemed to go away for a while so I didn't follow up. However it seems to be back. I should take it in to look at that as well as the cold suspension noise.
  • Since we are on the subject of wipers, it seems that when the wiper is going, it sweeps a tad too fast, so the left wiper would *squirt* water to the right side. I checked on a Honda and BMW, and both sweeps slower, and also without the overspray action. Has anyone else notice this issue?

    On a separate note, went to the dealership yesturday, and we got new black plastic tabs on the door, replaced the cargo cover (the first one never retracted). After 1.5hrs of fiddling around, the service manager reported that the heated seat switch part is not available, so we would have to come back when they have the part.

    Other than that, the car is in great shape, and it is the prefered car for the whole family.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The wipers need to move faster to cover the enormous windsheild. Are you comparing it to an Odyssey or a Civic?
  • I compared to the Civic, though I don't think there is a rule that from start to end of sweep that it needs to complete in ~1 sec. I rather have it sweep slower and not splatter the right side of the windshield with view distorting overspray. I suspect that by design, there is only 1 sweep rate, with varied time interval in between, whereas Honda has variable interval and sweep rate.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    You might want to take a look at FMVSS 104.

    Here are a couple lines that specify wiper frequency:

    S4.1.1.1 Each windshield wiping system shall have at least two
    frequencies or speeds.
    S4.1.1.2 One frequency or speed shall be at least 45 cycles per
    minute regardless of engine load and engine speed.
    S4.1.1.3 Regardless of engine speed and engine load, the highest and
    one lower frequency or speed shall differ by at least 15 cycles per
    minute. Such lower frequency or speed shall be at least 20 cycles per
    minute regardless of engine speed and engine load.


    So, set your timer for one minute and start counting.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Further discovery! A new Mazda Service Bulletin, #01-008/08, was published in Feb 2008. The subject is "Engine Stumble while driving with light acceleration at 1500-2500 rpm" and it applies to all 2006-2007 Mazda5s, manual and automatic, federal, California, and Mexico. The symptom description is exactly my problem, "some vehicles may experience an intermittent engine stumble... caused by the camshaft position sensor picking up [electrical] noise from the nearby ignition coil harness, which the PCM detects as an abnormal signal." I haven't had the fix done to our 5 yet but I'm finally very hopeful that the software engineers have understood the problem and found a fix.
  • gsupstategsupstate Posts: 6
    I noticed this somewhat on my '06 Touring, but even more on my new '08: if you touch the black dash in any way, or use normal paper towel to wipe/clean the dash, it leaves smudges and "lint" behind. Which, by the way, is next to impossible to remove. BTW-I'm talking about the upper black parts of the dash, not the center stack.

    What can be done to remove these spots? I haven't had my car a month yet, and the dash looks awful! Help! :confuse:
  • athenasiusathenasius Posts: 118
    Not sure if this helps but i just use a damp very clean dish cloth if it is really bad I put a drop of dish soap on it. i never use armourall or anything on the dash. i know what you mean re the paper towels bits. the benifits of the cotton dish towel is that it cleans well and does not leave any glossy surfaces and no VOC's
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Use micro-fiber detailing towels and make sure the dash is not hot from the sun.
  • gsupstategsupstate Posts: 6
    Bought a new '08 5, GT a few wks ago. LOVE IT. I say this, coming from an '06 Mazda5 Touring w/5 spd manual. In comparison, the '08 GT feels much more substantial, smoother, even qieter. I love my new car!!
  • Purchased a 2008 5 GT three weeks ago and have gone 1,000 miles. I called the dealer to schedule the first oil change. After reading the manual, it appears that Mazda does not require or recommend an oil change until after the first 7,500 miles. I have typically had my oil changed after the first 1,000 miles and every 4,000 - 5,000 miles afterwards. Is there a school of thought as to why one would wait for the 7,500 mile mark to perform the first oil change in a brand new engine?

    Thanks,
    MWS_74
  • On new vehicles the first oil change usually occurs at an "elongated" amount of time (usually 5000-10,000 miles) because engine manufacturers add a special additive that helps the "break-in" period of the engine and the overall reliability and longebility of the engine life. This is why the first oil change is not until 5k mikes or perhaps in computer controlled service minder vehicles (e.g. Hondas, etc...) somewhere in the 7500 mile region. My sister's 335i does not get her first oil change per BMW specs until 10k miles. with this in mind it is way better for you to leave the oil mixture the car came in from the factory as long as possible or reccomended by the manual. If after the first oil change you want to go back to the "old " mentality of "change your oil every 3k miles" then by all means go right ahead. the only thing you will hurt by doing so is your wallet, and not by much usually. As far as me I am sticking to the reccomended every 5k mile. Hope this helps.
  • According to the book you need to replace the Air Filter at 37,500. My local service station guy told me that I will be burning gas if I don't replace the Air Filter sooner. What's your opinion?
  • IMHO, the more often you can afford to to replace the air filter the better. I personally went with a "Drop-in" K&N filter and I benefit from a tiny bit better acceleration, 1-2 MPG increase and the ease of pulling it out and cleaning it and re-using it. Best $35 spent. Here is the link
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    or, for a more conservative approach, take out the air filter yourself and look at it. Yes a plugged up air filter is bad, but it entirely depends how dusty the environment of your usual driving has been. I replace mine on time, not early, and while they always look a little dirty, they aren't dramatically packed with volumes of dust -- you can tell what color the original new filter element was. My driving is ordinary urban/suburban Pacific Northwest, not very dry or dusty. I'd guess the midwest / south / eastern seaboard cities and suburbs would be similar, but the southwest, dry mountain west, and farming regions would be worse. Frequent dirt roads would obviously be bad. And I also advise, don't take mileage / power claims too seriously.
  • Well, to each its own. My claims of MPG increase and little pep is subjective. I also offered the K&N option because in the long run it last longer and pays itself off, rather then spending $15 or so on a replacement filter every 15K miles. Plus I live in sunny and dry SoCal, so for me that was my best choice. Just my $0.02
This discussion has been closed.