Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda5 Owners Accessories & Modifications

11516182021

Comments

  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    My 40-year-long habit of carrying all of my keys on one key ring, is not proving very pleasingly compatible with Mazda5 ownership. After 2 1/2 years, the Mazda key's plastic ring-mount location has broken and the key can no longer be attached to a keyring. The Mazda dealer says this is normal wear-and-tear and not considered warranteed at this point. The parts department sells only whole new keys which cost something like $200+. What alternatives do I have? This is something that doesn't just bug me everytime I drive the Mazda, it also happens everytime I drive our other car, or open the front door of our house, or my desk at work, or change my pants, or... You get the idea. I am NOT going to spend $200 every couple years just to buy a new replacement car key. The weak link in the key where the little metal ring passes through the fob, should have been made of metal, which Mazda probably saved 2 cents, by making out of chrome-plated plastic. Yuck / Arrrghhhh / what to do now?
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Our 2006 5 has developed a very annoying habit, of the left-rear sliding door not unlocking when we try to unlock all the doors by pushing the key fob button twice. (yes, the 3 other doors and tailgate do unlock). The interior door panel lock sliding knob on the LR door does move, but not quite far enough to unlock the door. This is the door you most want to unlock, when you arrive at the car solo and want to put in your briefcase or other junk, on a back seat. Our dealer has had the car twice, attempting to fix it, a total of 3 days spent overnight at the shop. The first visit, they claimed to be unable to ever duplicate the problem. Which could well be true, but this was after the problem had intermittently occurred for both me and my wife, dozens of times over several months. The second visit, they did see the problem, and "replaced inner door handle". Yet, the problem is still occasionally recurring. Another 2006 5, owned by friends, reportedly has precisely the same problem. Any parallel experiences out there? Any 100% successful fixes??
  • eBay...or get a quick release keychain device so you can remove the Mazda key when you start it or when needed. You can get a key off eBay for under $30.

    Question...do you have the Mazda key ON another key ring or other keys attached to the Mazda key? I only carry my Mazda key, house key, safe key and a old stick of computer memory (a DIMM, makes it hard to loose the keys) on a metal key ring. No issues.
  • Yup. I already read the manual but I was hoping somebody that actually has the NAV system would post a video or something on how it works. I wouldn't mind spending the money on the housing/bezel if I knew what I was getting myself into. I can't even go to a dealer to look at the new ones because they have changed and put the NAV in the center console.

    Anybody out there have one?
  • i have had the same issue. there is a fix or it someone on here awhile back had the issue and had it fixed. it has something to do with the inner linkage. if you stand next to the door and keep pressing the key fob you can hear what ever it is that is loose. not sure how you can search on old messaged on here sorry. need to get mine sorted out too before the warranty runs out. the other door has started to do it also. try to see if it happens on colder mornings withthe car or on a front lower and first thing in the morning.

    sorry i am not more help. but if you listen to it you can hear what ever is loose kind of knocking like a ball bearing on a string kind of sound as it does an extra bounce lol
  • well if anyone knows the part numbers i would love to replace mine and even make an extra cubby hole for stuff
  • Nothing on you tube either. There has to be a way of looking up the part number on the internet. I really HATE the local dealer, I stay away!

    Help!
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    I'm still confused. Search for "Mazda key" on eBay auto parts & accessories finds nothing.

    I want to have one set of key junk with everything attached and never think about adding or subtracting bits to it. Just "yes I have keys" or "no I don't". That's been my 40 year habit so I can't change now. It can be chains or ring(s) or nylon straps or carabiniers or whatever in any necessary number, so long as it all hangs together.

    I have been using the small Mazda 3/8" diameter metal ring that came attached to the fob, and then putting my own key ring thru the 3/8" ring. Nothing else directly attached to the Mazda key.
  • dfalkdfalk Posts: 1
    We had the same problem back in Aug. I just signed up and saw your notes.
    We had the Door Actuator replaced. Mazda part#C245-72-350.
    The problem has not happened since.

    Good luck.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    thanks -- I tried again at a second dealer, and I got a new actuator too. All well for 2 weeks now.
  • I'd like to replace the factory 6 cd radio on my AT Mazda 5 and install Metra Dashkit 99-7509. The salesman at the store told me his supplier told him that the Metra dash kit for the Mazda 5 only fits on the manual transmission models.

    Has anyone installed the Metra dashkit?

    Any feedback would be appreciated.

    Gideon
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    I've got an MT MZ5 (2006) and it sure stumps me off the top of my head what the problem would be causing what you were told. I don't like how my hand motions, shifting to 1st gear, can inadvertently cause me to turn of the climate control. But the radio is further away from the shifter than the HVAC.... I'll be interested to see if any helpful comments emerge (I know this one isn't!)
  • Thanks for the feed back whobodym.

    I think I may have misunderstood the salesperson on the phone. At first he asked me about whether I had automatic climate control. I was confused by the question and said I had automatic transmission. He then told me he would ask around for me and that I should check online.

    After I posted I searched and found this link http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/appguide/2007/Mazda/Mazda5.html

    and on the link it said that

    Premium Kit 99-7509 2007 Mazda Mazda5 (models with manual climate)
    # - Major Modifications may be Required

    Perhaps there is an issue with the dash kit and manual climate controls.

    Thanks again for the feedback.

    Gideon
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Ah, you figured it out better than I did. Our 5 has Auto Climate Control (Touring model, not Sport). The 3 big circular HVAC dial/buttons might be a larger/different size than the manual HVAC. And ours has a 4th little rectangular black button, for the ambient temperature display, so the slot at the bottom of the HVAC control panel is different too.

    Do you suppose the kit you're reading about has a more durable finish than the Mazda silver stuff? Ours already looks a little scuffed after only 2 years.
  • mdchachimdchachi Posts: 275
    I have the nav system in a 2006. The screen is motorized. Press the Open button once to close. Press it again to open. But in normal operation I keep it "open" in which case it will automatically close when turning the vehicle off and automatically reopen when starting the car again.

    So unless the wires are just sitting there in the dash, it might be difficult to retrofit. On the other hand, you could just leave it in the open position.
  • Wow, I thought it was spring loaded and you had to actually push it closed. Thanks for the post. Any idea if the 5 is prewired? Or how much work it would be to wire? My guess is that it would be easy to fit in a aftermarket GPS system if the housing wasn't PIA to install.

    Maybe somebody has the directions they could post? I thought the DVD navigation was a dealer installed option, maybe it was a factory only option?

    Thanks,
  • a101a101 Posts: 9
    Hello Everyone,

    Could anyone share their experience with the remote engine starter kits for M5? Is the one from the dealership the best thing or an after market one? Good recommendations for any specific model/make?
    Thanks,
  • It seems to me, in an era of peak oil and global warming, that a remote engine starter is a gizmo that one might reasonable dispense with.
  • a101a101 Posts: 9
    Good point joant1x :D

    However, its only 2 - 3 minutes of extra engine ON time (less than 2% of overall engine ON). By getting a Mazda5 and not a Sienna or Odyssey with V6, I think we have earned somewhat of a carbon credit that can be applied towards this. :shades:

    With a newborn and around freezing temps for 5 months here in Utah, I don't feel bad about using the convenience of a remote Engine Starter.

    Anyone with suggestions for a good model/unit for M5?
  • Fair observations, but of course a cold engine is at its least efficient. I don't know how long you've owned the car, but one of the things that has struck me about it is how much more quickly the cabin warms up than was the case with our former vehicle, a 99 Windstar.

    The remote starter is not a device that I know a great deal about but presumably you know that Mazda offers one for the 5? MSRP is $300 but I found it at Med Center Mazda in AL for $253 plus shipping.
  • Has anybody gotten the dealer to fix the crunching noise that comes from the suspension in cold weather? I have a 2007 and I know that they issued a TSB for 2006's. The dealer would not provide a fix because the TSB was not for my year and of course by the time I got my car to the dealer it was warmed up and the crunch was gone. They asked me to keep it there for a couple days so they could hear it but I can't give my car up because of my schedule (dropping off kids, picking them up, etc). Anybody else having this problem? Better yet, anybody else found a solution?
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Here is some so-so quality help. Our 5 is a 2006 Touring 5MT. We had a lot of the suspension crunchy noise our first winter with the car ('06-'07). I associated it with colder weather as you do, but also with rain. I think it has to do with the anti-roll bar rubber bushings. This is the place where, on a bump that is equal for both wheels on an axle, the bar just swivels back and forth inside the bushings and doesn't act with any force on the wheels. In my own imagination at least, the wet cold rubber gets "squeakier", just like certain pairs of your shoes, when walking on linoleum floors when you come in from the wet, can be really noisy. We did have the SB work done on our car 1-2 years ago, and it was relatively successful. Our original problem clearly seemed to be coming from the front suspension. Now however, there seems to be quite similar noise effects coming from the rear suspension. The problem is likely something quite similar. I've been too lazy to try to work on this myself, or take it back to the dealer, but it certainly seems promising to be worth working on. I'm going to stay lazy though -- 3 years old is about the point where car noises stop bothering me and I just get used to them. And assuming the analogy about the wet shoes is exact, the problem is purely annoying and completely harmless to safety and durability. The one firm piece of advice I'd give you is, if you do try the dealer, don't accept that stuff about no SB for 2007 models. That sounds like a total cop-out to me.
  • Or if your mechanically inclined and are willing to get you back and hands a little dirty and screw the dealer all together. Just buy the two $8 or so pair of bushings and install them yourself. The rear ones are particularly way easier to get to then the front ones.

    On a side note, I guess you can take the darn rear stabilizer bar completely off and never have to worry about another crunching sound in the rear.....LOL!
  • riproyriproy Posts: 57
    Lots of experience on this topic under the suspension forum. Our 06 is going to have parts replaced for the 4th time next Monday for this same problem. Bushings were replaced at least 2 of 3 previous times - no joy. Taking the rear sway bar off may be my next step. Still won't cure the front end however.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    I'd be extremely reluctant to remove any anti-roll (sway) bar permanently. The 5 in my experience is an excellent handling vehicle, and corners very well. Especially so considering that it rides quite well, not harshly, too. You do not want to change the carefully engineered stability and response of a vehicle that you may depend on in high speed emergency maneuvers someday.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    thanks for the encouragement. I hadn't taken the time to look at the rear setup yet. It's definitely worth $8 -- I'm the kind of guy who changes my own oil because I enjoy it, not to save money.
  • No problem. After reading all these noise problems with the sway bars (front and rear) and actually hearing a little coming from mine from the rear after a couple of rainy days (which by the way, to second someone's post earlier the noise also happens on wet weather not just cold temperatures). I got down underneath the rear suspension only to discover that the bushings are not that hard to get to and with the help of the printable service bulletin from here to change the first set (as I am sure we will have to do it more than once) it should be a breeze.

    My other sugestion was to remove the rear sway bar and then you wount have to hear the crunch from the rear ever. Someone said it may affect the handling but I highly doubt anyone will notice the small change unless they are carting the thing around and pushing the suspension to its limits. The front sway bar is the main bar that shouls always stay in place because it is the thicker one and the one that controls the front suspension and for the most part the entire vehicle's dynamics.

    I used to own a 2004 Nissan Frontier in which I removed my rear sway bar entirely to have better articulation on the rear suspension when I went off-roading and I never even noticed a change in stability when driving it on a normal basis in freeways and surface streets, I know that this may be comparing apples to oranges in regards to the two different vehicles, but who knows, maybe removing the rear sway bar (for those who just can take it anymore with the rear crunching noise) may not make a difference either in our MZ5's.

    Is there after market companies that perhaps make polyurethane bushings instead of the OEM rubber ones???

    I know Energy Suspension makes these types of bushings, but they do not make them for our MZ5s.
  • Thanks for all the posts. After going into the dealer with the 2006 TSB (I have a 2007) they said they could not do the work because the TSB was NOT for my year car. However, he promised that they (the dealer) would contact me if an updated TSB that included my car was issued. The one you linked seemed to be for my car, I'll have to check my VIN number tomorrow. How do you find the TSB's? Is there a way to look them up?

    Also, did the fix provided in the TSB actually work or is it a waste of time?

    Thanks!
  • Rosenthal Mazda does a pretty good job updating the most crucial TSB's issued for all Mazda vehicles. Click on the link and scroll all the way down and you will see at the bottom left corner of the webpage the list of service bulletins by type of vehicle.

    I think you should try another Mazda dealer that is willing to help you because the TSB should also apply to 2007 MY MZ5s.

    I cannot attest to the rear sway bar bushing replacement fixing the problem because I have never gotten it done, since mine only crunches a tiny bit when it rains and immediately goes away after it dries up. Replacing the fronts however, did fix my "knocking" sound when going up or down a driveway or anytime the road was uneven. I never had the "crunch" noise.
  • a101a101 Posts: 9
    Isn't this post related to mods and accessories?
    Lets focus and post messages related to those here...
Sign In or Register to comment.