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Ford Shelby GT500



  • Congrats to you and shelbwise on getting your cars. You will love them!
  • "I was going over the owners manual and found it does not reference anything on the Shelby, or it's options."

    You can download a GT 500 manual supplement from here:
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Mine is the Alloy and I'm not sure what the factory set mine at. The sales manager was going over options before I drove it home and he was fiddling with all sorts of buttons I have no clue as what he was doing. I can tell you that it is currently at the blue setting now. I did have mine on Saturday up to 80 mph and it seemed like I was going 55. The dealer filled my tank and I have roughly 115 miles and topped it off last night. It took 8.25 gallons so I guess my first 100 miles I averaged just under 14 mpg. Most of my miles have been in 4th gear doing between 40 and 50 mph. I love this car. Kirstie our moderator will be posting some of my pictures when she gets a chance that I E-mailed to her. I can't seem to figure how to put them on my car space. :shades:
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    You can find the GT 500 manual supplement inside the packet that they gave us with the car. It's a small booklet clearly marked.
  • Gentlemen:

    When I was a kid of owned a 1967 GT 2+2. I have since owned a 2004 Premium Convertible. I sold the 2004 about 6 months ago. The thought of owning a GT 500 makes me dream of my youth and of the time when American Torque Monsters roamed the highways. Can you tell me what dealers are selling these cars for? I am in the market for a 2007 Mustang GT, but if I can snag a GT 500, I might get it. Since I have a family to support, I have to put things in perspective.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    My Dad showed me his original invoice some time back on his 2+2. Don't recall the actual price he paid, but he regrets selling it. I gave him a ride this past Saturday in my Shelby and he loved it. Most dealers in my area are holding private auctions at their dealerships with closed bidding. Average price you will find a coupe on eBay is somewhere $55K to $60K. $5K more if it's a convertible. I assure you if you purchase one it will more than fulfill any of your dreams. Good luck. ;)
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    "My Dad showed me his original invoice some time back on his 2+2. Don't recall the actual price he paid, but he regrets selling it."

    I hope you kept your '66 coupe. I've got a '66 fastback that I think would be a terrific graduation present for my daughter - in 12 years.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    I need some help. I have read everything that I received with my Shelby, but nowhere can I see or find any info that refers to the super charger. There is a gauge on the instrument panel that reads 0 to 15 psi that I think has something to do with the super charger. Anybody Know anything about that gauge? I read some postings somewhere on the web that claims you need to disconnect the battery before taking delivery of your car or else the super charger won't be programmed. I asked my dealership about that but they claimed you never disconnect the battery or else you will get multiple error codes. I bought mine from a small Ford dealer and like I said in previous postings I believe I had more knowledge about this car than they did. Page 8 in the Shelby supplement references the PCM feature that limits boost pressure, but very little or no information in detail. Anyone know where I can read up on the super charger in our Shelby's? :confuse:
  • Pre-Delivery Instruction (PDI) #J10 (Shelby Only) makes reference to the the disconnecting of the battery. I believe you must 1. Disconnect the negative side of battery. 2. Reinstall the battery cable. 3. Turn ignition key to ON position for 10 seconds, but do not allow the car to start...This will satisfy the J10 instruction with regard to the PCM re-program. And if you had been getting a high rev at start-up this should no longer happen. The gauge you speak of is the S/C boost gauge. The owners supplement is clear on when boost becomes need to romp these things pretty hard before you actually begin to see it produce any boost...Don't be afraid, thats what its made for! Hopefully this helps. If you would like me to email you a copy of the complete PDI, please forward your email address to
  • BTW....our mechanic claims they no longer need to disconnect the battery cable for pre-delivery. You need to drive it for 5 consecutive miles then turn it off then on again to get full power. Or wait until you have turned it on and off for 50 consecutive starts. We took mine out for a 5 mile spin and then turned it off and started it again. My mechanic claims that is all that needed to be done to restore full power.
  • shelbydude...Thanks for the clarification. I received the same info. from my dealership regarding the battery cable. The only thing that I initially questioned about my car was that the boost gauge didn't seem to be working after knowing that all the proper PDI's had been performed...they said don't be afraid to get on it and then watch the gauge...and to my surprise it was working quite well!
  • mechanic here said the same thing. The gauge only moves when pressure builds up which means you have to get on it to make that happen. The more you get on it, the more pressure builds, the more the gauge will move.
  • BTW....what is the fastest anyone has had their shelby up to so far? I was up to 130 MPH before having to let off and slow down because of approaching traffic. I've read these cut off at 155 and/or 160 but I haven't been able to get up that fast yet.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    I don't think I will drive my Shelby again until I talk to another Ford dealership. I don't believe mine was delivered correctly to me and I'm afraid I may be doing damage to my Shelby. I was even handed the bag of lock nuts for the rims that I had to request to have put on. The dealership I bought my Shelby from have nice people there, but I just don't believe their knowledgeable to deliver this type of auto. I haven't heard of anything about this PDI checklist or anything. The psi gauge on my dash has stayed at 0 each time I have driven my Shelby. I have accelerated to 80 mph and it has stayed at 0. You speak of getting on it, but if that means 130 mph, I don't need to worry about that psi gauge because my Shelby nor any vehicle of mine will ever see 130mph. HA! HA! I out grew that many years ago. :confuse:
  • When you accelerated to 80 MPH how fast did you go from o to 80? Just crusing up to 80 isn't going to cause the gauge to move. If you REALLY GET ON IT you will see the gauge move. It has to create a lot of pressure in the supercharger before it will move the pressure gauge. Now if you really get on it as in 0 - 100 in 60 seconds you will see that gauge move. Cruising up to 80 or cruising around at 80 or a 100 won't move the gauge because that alone will not build enough pressure to move the gauge. It only creates pressure when you go all out at full bore if you were starting out slow and going to 80 or 100 in 60 seconds or less. That is getting on it! Just cruising up to 80 isn't going to move it at all. There isn't any pressure building up.
  • bri66...Unlike a turbocharger, the supercharger is driven directly off of the crankshaft...The harder you mash your right foot the more demand for gas and the RPM's rise the rotors in the supercharger spin faster and boost will build...This whole cycle happens very fast and the boost gauge will be very erratic if you do not keep your foot it long enough to look down at the gauge. I suggest you find yourself a safe bit of open road and lay into it while looking @ the gauge and knowing you have nothing but open/safe road in front of you...Also it won't hurt your car to go through the PDI instructions again just to make sure they got done...
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    I was entering onto a state highway so maybe 30 to 80 in 3 to 4 seconds maybe. I was watching the tach and it only climbed a bit above 3K. I tried it again today with the same results. Unfortunately their was a state cruiser a ways back that saw me enter the highway and followed my butt off at the next exit. I don't think he was too impressed, but once he saw who was driving it I guess he figured I was an old fool. HA! HA! When you say it has to build up boost prior to showing on the gauge what speed and rpm's are you at? Thanks for the PDI instructions, I am going to go over them this weekend. I took my wife's uncle for a ride today and he owned brand new a 68 Chevelle SS that put out 350 horses in the day and he claimed he would not have stood a chance against this car. Although he claimed he only paid $3,800 for his toy back in the day. I love this car, it is soo sweet to drive and quite the eye catcher. :shades:
  • If you take it to 4000 RPM's like right now, your gauge should show signs of life... :)
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,613
    you could try using a lower gear, to get the revs up without too much speed.
  • Yea...I was thinking 4000 RPM in 1st gear...sorry I didn't specify that...and don't worry, thats still 2000 RPM below redline.
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