Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Infiniti G37 Lease Questions

13031333536276

Comments

  • I plugged your numbers into my spreadsheet and there seems to be a mistake somewhere. The MSRP on that car w/o tint is 35540.00 at 56% the residual is 19,902.40, however at that money factor and tax your payment would actually be around 572/mo. When I calculate it in at 57% the residual goes up to 20,257.80 and your monthly payment is now 562.91/mo. I'm going to assume that's the case. So, it looks like you are getting the best MF and residual right now (57% and .00196), so it comes down to how much they are charging over invoice to see if there is any other room to play with. By my calculations, assuming around 350.00 to cover the registration and doc fees, and 595.00 for the acquisition fee, it looks like they marked up the invoice of the car 1650.00 for dealer profit, tint, and probably things like wheel and airbag locks (approx. 190.00 for the locks). Not sure what they are charging for the tint, but depending on that you can probably get a good idea of how much over invoice they are charging and maybe squeeze a bit more out of them. I hope this helps. If you have anymore details about the extra things, it would make it easier to figure out where you can try to work them some more. Good luck.
  • 2007 Infiniti G35 2dr Coupe / Instantly Compare Lease Payments HERE (1)

    24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 70% of MSRP – .00214 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 60% of MSRP – .00212 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 47% of MSRP – .00240 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 37% of MSRP – .00253 Money Factor Buy Rate

    24 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 71% of MSRP – .00214 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 61% of MSRP – .00212 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 48% of MSRP – .00240 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 39% of MSRP – .00253 Money Factor Buy Rate

    2007 Infiniti G35 4dr Sedan / Instantly Compare Lease Payments HERE (1)

    24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 68% of MSRP – .00186 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 57% of MSRP – .00196 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 46% of MSRP – .00238 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 38% of MSRP – .00259 Money Factor Buy Rate

    24 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 69% of MSRP – .00186 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 58% of MSRP – .00196 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 47% of MSRP – .00238 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 40% of MSRP – .00259 Money Factor Buy Rate

    2007 Infiniti G35 4dr Sedan Sport / Instantly Compare Lease Payments HERE (1)

    24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 66% of MSRP – .00216 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 56% of MSRP – .00193 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 43% of MSRP – .00245 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 36% of MSRP – .00257 Money Factor Buy Rate

    24 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 67% of MSRP – .00216 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 57% of MSRP – .00193 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 44% of MSRP – .00245 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 38% of MSRP – .00257 Money Factor Buy Rate

    2007 Infiniti G35 4dr Sedan X / Instantly Compare Lease Payments HERE (1)

    24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 68% of MSRP – .00197 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 57% of MSRP – .00211 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 44% of MSRP – .00239 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 38% of MSRP – .00259 Money Factor Buy Rate

    24 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 69% of MSRP – .00197 Money Factor Buy Rate
    36 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 58% of MSRP – .00211 Money Factor Buy Rate
    48 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 45% of MSRP – .00239 Money Factor Buy Rate
    60 mo/12k mi – Residual Value 40% of MSRP – .00259 Money Factor Buy Rate

    Use the following formula to calculate a lease payment:

    (Capitalized Cost – Residual Value) / Term = Monthly Depreciation
    (Capitalized Cost + Residual Value) X Money Factor = Monthly Interest
    Monthly Depreciation + Monthly Interest = Base Monthly Payment
  • Aside from the 1000 dollar cap reduction are you paying anything else for drive offs? Registration, 1st month, sec deposit? The number they quoted you almost looks like they are rolling in the registration and doc fees...not sure what it's like in Florida, but in CA it's about 300 for registration and 45 for doc fees. Also, from what I understand the acq. fee and bank fee are the same thing, so they are just calling it two different things in order to add more to the cap cost. When I got my car we agreed upon a cap cost and then I added the fees. The only fees added on to the cap cost for me were acq. fee of 595, registration of 315, doc fee of 45, upfront tax of 50, and 190 for dealer add ons (wheel and airbag locks). The dealer add ons were unfortunately not negotiable. There were also a couple of minor things for like 8 bucks.

    I plugged your numbers into my list with 500 over invoice which is actually 34388 (including dest. fee of 700). I then added in the acq. fee of 595 and your 1k cap reduction payment. With the residual and MF you quoted and their monthly payment, it means that there is about 1215 bucks OVER the supposedly 500 over invoice price. You should get an exact breakdown of each fee and dealer add on that is in there. I still don't think they should be charging you that extra 600 dollar bank fee. I think they are just adding the fee so you think you are getting it for 500 over invoice when in reality it's more like 1k over...which isn't bad, but they should call it exactly what it is.

    Here is what your lease could look like if you were to say pay your acq. fee and doc fees up front. Again, this is assuming the same fees as in CA and FL might be different..you have to ask for the specifics. At 500 over invoice (34388.00), 54% residual, .0024 MF and 42 months, and paying the acq. fee, doc fee, registration, AND 1st month payment up front (approx 1500), I get a payment of 508.00/ month. Anyway, I hope that helps a bit. If you get the exact breakdown of fees it will make it easier to get exact numbers for you. My spreadsheet is dead on as I just completed my lease and my numbers matched theirs exactly when I had the right figures to plug in. Good luck!!
  • Thank you so much for your wealth of information. Per your request, I will fill in some more details for you. I have an expiring 39-month lease (expires 1/21/07) on a 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe with a residual of around $20,300. There is some body repair work to be done (the appraiser for my lease wrote $300). The dealer is buying me out of the lease and paying $20,500 which in effect applies $200 towards my lease. The Title, License and Registration are $28.25, acq. fee is $595 and the "fluff" of Doc Fee and VTR are $594. My credit is the top tier and the dealer is insisting that the residual is 56% for 36 months.

    Could you please comment on my deal with my new information? Also, from where did you get the information that you listed regarding the Money Factor and Residual. I would love to be able to refer to the source during my negotiating.

    Thank you again for your time and extremely helpful information. I truly appreciate it.

    Eric
  • I'll have to try to work more specifics in a bit since I'm at work. But the MF and residuals are the IFS posted buy rates. This is the number IFS posts, but the dealer doesn't have to stick to it. They can try to mark it up. Also, if you are going with say a 39 month or 42 month lease, it will affect the residual and MF and those numbers aren't on that list. Here is the website where I got the numbers. http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/financing/

    They can argue all they want, but if they say they are giving you the true IFS buy rate with no mark up than the numbers I listed are acurate. Also, the 600 bucks of fluff is just that. It seems that all dealers have about 200.00 in add ons whether it's for a VTR fee like window etching or for wheel locks, etc. You probably won't get that down. As for the doc fee, I know in CA it's regulated to 45 bucks, but when I talked to someone in Nevada they aren't regulated and were charging 399 for it. However, when I pushed them, they couldn't drop the doc fee, miraculously were able to drop the actual price of the car by 350 bucks....go figure ;)
  • Well I just spoke with the sales manager again and yes I am paying $595 essentially twice once for the bank fee, and once for dealer aquisition, in either case my net cap is $34791 including my $1000 cash down. At signing all I am paying is my intial payment which is now $519.34 after further negotiation and the deposit of $1000 plus 72 which I assume is for tax, total payment is $1591.31 OTD 41 payments remaining.

    The MF is still .0024 and residual still 54%. Sticker was $36900 but they also added an aftermarket Wood Package (Sport Model) which is listed as an additional $1000 (call it $37900 now). They did this after we first ran numbers and agreed to the price the first time around so they ate it, sort of.

    I feel this is a pretty good deal, while not the best it's good enough and it's the car we want.

    Thanks for everyones input and assistance here, I promise to come back and post more regarding my overall experience of the car and buying process so others can benefit as all of us have.
  • Thank you again for your thorough information. I truly appreciate your knowledge and insight. The Doc Fee is actually $399.00 and the window etching is $195. It looks to me that I could push the residual for the 57% rate. When I was at the dealer, they showed me the computer they use for IFS and when he went from 36 to 39 months, the residual stayed at 56%. I am not naive enough to think that they could not have had a way to manipulate the numbers. My agreed upom value for the vehicle was $33,938.73. After the Title, acq. fee, and doc and VTR fee, the gross capitalized cost became %35,155.98.

    If you have time to respond, do you see anywhere I can push them for a better deal?

    Thank you again.

    Eric
  • OK...so after looking at it some more, it looks like they are giving you like 300 bucks as a trade in towards the new car. With the residual at 56 and that trade it evens out. You can probably still push for 57% for 36 months, but if it means nothing for your trade then it's basically a wash. However, if all things are equal and you will make the same payment either way, I'd stick with the LOWER residual percentage in case you decide to buy it at the lease end you will have paid off more of the car and owe less...get it? If everything but the first month is rolled into your lease then you are basically paying 595 for acq. fee, and 620 bucks for registration, VTR, doc, and anything else which doesn't seem too bad. Your agreed upon price is about 1370 over invoice, but that DOESN'T take into account the tint. I can't tell you what that is since it's a dealer added expense and not a factory one. Honestly, it seems like most people are paying anywhere between 200-500 for tint so depending on that you can figure you are paying around 1k over invoice, which at this point isn't too bad...but since you aren't going for one with Navigation or Sport which are REALLY hard to negotiate, you might be able to get them down another couple hundred bucks. But it doesn't look too unrealistic right now. Just make sure there aren't any other hidden fees anywhere. But overall, considering they are buying out your old lease it all seems like a fair deal unless they have really undervalued your trade. But if you are happy with the number then it's fine. Personally, on my lease, I preferred to pay the registration, acq. fee, dealer add ons, and 1st month up front so that I'm not paying the finance charge on it. I figured that I was going to pay it anyway, so I'd rather just factor the cost of the car for the financing. If you paid the approx 1200 dollars for fees and registration up front and just financed the 33638.73 (cap cost minus 300 for trade in), your monthly payment would be 525/mo including tax.
  • One other thing...before you consider a term like 39 months, be sure to factor in that your registration does not pro-rate, so you will pay for your registration near the end of your term, and then you will have to pay for it again when you get your new car. It's only a couple hundred bucks, but it's something to consider...plus the financing numbers on those length leases might not be favorable (which at the moment for infiniti they don't appear to be).
  • Wow! Fantastic information. Just to clarify, I will owe 35 payments and not be putting anyhting out-of-pocket down. Your fees analysis is a good one. It is a bit unnecessary to finance these amounts although I am not to broken up over this extra amount.

    I think that the trade may be undervalued a bit. The manager told me that the car, with body repair, is worth $20,500 because they will be $21,500 to $22,000 into the car after getting it ready for sale. I do not totally buy this argument although I have not truly explored the re-sale market. I pushed here and was told that above $20,500, the dealer was not interested.

    It looks like the residual value has some room (the 57 instead of 56%). Outside of that, I think it is a reasonable deal. I truly appreciate your taking time to counsel me on the deal. I will let you know what happens. If you have any final pearls of wisdom, I am open to hearing them.

    Eric
  • If your 1st payment wasn't included in all of that then it certainly seems very reasonable. I never factor in the 1st month as I assume that I'll have to pay for it when I sign. As for your trade, they aren't totally BS'ing you about the added cost. It's pretty standard that they need to put 1k or more into the car (not including the body work) to get it to the point where they can say it's certified, so all in all it looks like you have a decent deal. You might get the residual up a bit, but like I said, if it affects them giving you anything for your trade, you might as well keep it at the lower residual for the better potential price at lease end...it could help when you go for your next lease. Enjoy the new ride!
  • Thank you again. I will not have to give them any $ when I sign and will any be responsible for the following 35 payments. I will take another shot with the residual although I will deifnitely heed your advice and be flexible if it affects my trade. I'll let you know about the car. How do you like your ride?
  • I really enjoy the ride...I got the sport with everything, so it's a bit stiffer than the Journey, but I like it. I haven't pushed it yet though....trying to take it easy thru the break in period.
  • I just called uup the dealer to arrange for my pick-up tonight. I was told that the residual was 57% for 36 months. The payment came out to $562.91. However, that would seem to neglect the buy-out for my car, right? It would seem that the few hundred they offered my car above my residual value would bring the payment a little below that monthly number. Am I viewing this correctly?

    Thank you,
    Eric
  • Here is the bottom line. With your adjusted cap cost for EVERYTHING rolled in..zero down @ 35155.98, 57% residual, and .00196 MF, the monthly payment should be 558 and change per month including tax...it's a small discrepancy, so it's not really a huge deal. it probably means that your actual cap cost is more like 35300 which makes the monthly payment right about inline with their number. Now here is what you can consider if you want to look for where the money is, the Invoice price on that car...just for a Journey w/ Premium, splash guards, satellite, and wood trim is 32824 (includes destination of 700 bucks). So that is a difference between the cap cost and the invoice of 2476.00 dollars. If you figure the minimum drive offs would probably be around 1500 bucks for 1st month, acq. fee, registration, doc fees, etc...that means the car is only 1k over invoice at most...not including tint, dealer add ons or any value for your car which they are probably factoring as a wash, so it doesn't look too bad IMO.
  • Thank you for the analysis. It really helps me to clear it up when I go there now. I like knowing all the facts going in. I will let you know how it goes.
  • $484/MO INCLUDES TAXES :blush:
  • THANKS CAR MAN!
    definitely loving it...
    Just hit the 1k point today.
    ">Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
  • I have the car now. It drives great! Somehow, I only got $40 towards my car (we called IFS and the payoff was higher than before) although the payment still came out to $562.94. Since it was still around the same payment, I went ahead with the deal. I guess I could have poisitioned it better so if I wanted to buy the car at the end of the lease, the residual would have been lower. I still think it worked out pretty well.
  • Congrats!!! As long as the payment didn't change you did fine. Realistically, if they weren't giving you anything for your car and the payment didn't change then they lowered the cost of the new car. Considering they added tint too, you did good I think....probably not as good as me ;) but I had to work REALLY hard and had the VPP plan to help. Enjoy the new ride. I actually had some kind of electrical thing pop up so I had to take it in today :( I hope it's nothing major and just a little glitch due to all the new technology.
  • Right on! Glad you did well on your deal. I like the ride, very smooth. I just have to figure out how to use the voice commands better asd well as the radio. I am used to doing everyhting from the steering wheel and it appears that I have to do more on the console now. BTW- what is the VPP plan?

    Eric
    RobertFitzgibbons.com
  • The voice commands are very convenient...as long as it recognizes your voice. Mine can be a bit nasal, so somethings get confused. VPP is the pricing plan for Employees, friends & family of employees, and businesses that qualify, etc. I happened to have a friend who worked for Nissan, so I qualified for it...it was just hard to find a dealer who would accept it since it is basically a no haggle pricing structure. Worked out to about 300 bucks over invoice and the best financing I could qualify for...which was about the same as yours, except mine is a Sport so it was like .00193 and 56%. It's definitely fun...right now I think my favorite feature is the real time traffic on the navigation
  • I am looking at a 39mo/10K lease on a 2007 G35X with Prem, Nav, Wood trim, splash guards, trunk mat. The MSRP is $39,540 and the sale price is $36,800. I'm assuming 58% residual and .00211 MF. The dealer gave me a price of $489 a month with $2900 out-of-pocket. That includes NY taxes, bank fee, fees and 1st payment. How do I know how much over invoice is this car? Thanks.
  • The best way would be to ask them for an EXACT breakdown of all the fees that the 2900 covers. There is likely a nice little cap reduction that they have rolled into it. Whatever they have for cap reduction you can add to the sale price they told you and that will give you the "true" sale price and from there you can figure out how much over invoice it is.
  • g35mcg35mc Posts: 9
    Hello all, I am looking to get a 2007 G35 Sport and I was offered the following deal on a lease for the car below. Please let me know what you think, this is my first car purchase and first least so any insight would be appreciated. The car I located is in L.A. California. Thanks!

    Model: Infinity G35 6-speed
    Color: Liquid Platinum
    Options: Premium Package (no NAV)
    Mudguards
    Cargo Net
    Sirius Satellite Radio
    Lease/Milage: 15K miles per year/36 month lease
    Total Due at Signing: $2886.28
    Monthly Payment: $550 per month even payment
  • Without knowing your exact specifics on Cap cost of the car, and how much of your down payment is going towards cap reduction, this doesn't look like a very good deal. By my calculations (and I just bought one in CA so I can estimate the drive off costs), it appears like they are just selling you the car at MSRP and just applying some of your total due at signing towards cap cost (approx 1300.00). When I put in the best lease financing numbers and 1300 cap reduction the payment is just about 550/month. That is too high IMO. This car is not that hot that people are still buying them at MSRP. You should try to negotiate more off of the cap cost and instead of putting money down towards cap reduction you should either keep it in your pocket or apply it towards addl. security deposits which will reduce the money factor. You should also ask them for a detailed breakdown of every single cost in your total due at signing, and what money factor and residual they are using...it will make it easier to figure your exact lease calculations.

    for an example...that car with just 1k off MSRP and only about 1600 due at signing to cover Acquision fee, registration, 1st month, and doc fees would make your payment around 560/month including tax.
  • Hi,
    i am trying to buy a car. this is my first car, so please help me out. i have some cars in mind

    2007 infiniti g35 sport automatic fully loaded,
    2007 acura tl-s type fully loaded
    2007 maxima sl fully loaded
    2007 lexus ES 350 fully loaded

    please let me know which car do you suggest and also please let me know what is the best price for these cars, inorder to negotiate with the dealer.

    thank you

    jpkreddy
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,702
    Wow. Those are pricey vehicles for your first car. Are you a new driver? No offense, but if you are new to the road, I would seriously consider something a little more tame.

    As far as the list goes, my personal preference would be the G35. Carsdirect is giving me a price of only about $800 under sticker on the car. I'd go to the dealer with the intentions of paying invoice and let them work you up from there.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • hey none taken..
    i am not new to cars.. just this is my first new car.. i changed 2 used cars.. when i was a student. so i am now looking for the best new car.. so please let me know what will be the best bargain price for 07 g35 sport fully loaded with premium pkg, nav etc..

    any help is appreciated.
  • please someone let me know if this a good deal.. i dont want an 'OK' deal.

    2007 g35X awd

    $0 out of pocket (just sign and drive)
    39 month lease
    $549/month
    msrp $36,850
    total payments/residual $21,411/$21,373

    intelligent key, sunroof, heated seats, dual climate control, automatic, 6 cd, leather, alloy wheels, full power etc..
Sign In or Register to comment.