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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • It has to either smoke or leak, no other way to lose that much that fast. Try a pressure test to "force" the leak.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    If it is a bad oil pump, then I would ask the dealer to call Chevy to discuss the problem (low mileage, oil maintenance records, etc), especially if the repair cost exceeds $400. In the event the dealer does not help, then I have had success calling Chevy Customer Service to discuss problems out of warranty. I had the well-known battery acid leak problem when I was at 50,000 miles, out of factory warranty (and extended warranty would not pay $). It was a pleasure talking with Customer Service, they called my dealership to verify the info and that the car was actually at the dealership, then they paid the acid cleanup and installed a new better battery. Of course, I made it clear this was my first Chevy purchase. I am glad you have it at the dealership with that oil pressure reading so low. How many miles do you think have past since your last oil change? Let us know how it goes.
  • Thanks for all the info. I will definitely take your advice re: calling Chevy if it is an oil pump problem. The car has been well maintained and is rarely driven. It's been just a little over 3 months since my last oil chance and I've put 800 miles on my car since then. The TB is also my first Chevy and it seems I've been a lucky TB owner as this is the first problem I've had with the car.

    I will definitely keep you posted how this plays out.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    My sister in law had a similiar problem on her Tahoe. Turned out to be the sending unit. Hopefully your problem is something as simple also.
  • The GM service manual for the TrailBlazer indicates that the replacement of the outlet heater hose requires removal of the transmission. Since hoses are not a warranty item, replacement of a relatively cheap part that is subject to wear becomes labor intense (costly) if the transmission needs to be pulled. I notice the outlet heater does snake around the top of the bell housing, which I suspect is why the manual calls for the removal of the transmission. Can anyone tell me from their experience if the transmission really needs to be pulled to install a new heater hose?
  • A gallon a week is a lot of coolant to disappear without leaving evidence behind. Cover the basics first in trying to sort out if you have a big vs. little problem. If you have a bad head gasket some or all of the following could be happening: Check your oil dipstick and if the oil looks foamy / grey and frothy then you've got coolant making it's way into he lubrication system. If the oil looks OK on the dipstick then allow your engine to cool or better yet, start with a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. If you have a blown head gasket that is allowing products of combustion to enter the cooling system you will see bubbles in the radiator filler neck. May have to let the engine warm up some for this to work because if you have a bad head gasket, head or block surface problem it's probably not going to make itself apparent until your engine reaches normal operating temp which causes the different mating surfaces to make dimensional changes relative to heat.

    A head gasket problem that loses a gallon of coolant a week is probably also going to manifest itself in visible loss of power, overheating. I want to give you a little hope here by saying if you are not noticing anything else other than loss of coolant then you probably have something else going on besides a head gasket but just have not found it yet.

    How many miles on your blazer? Have you pressure tested the radiator cap? If yours is a 98 and you've never replaced the cap now would be a good time. How about your water pump? Most of the time when they leak they do so through a weep hole on the underside of the pump casting where the impeller shaft runs through and leave a puddle but not always. With the engine off and key out of the ignition grasp a fan blade and they to wiggle it up and down or side to side. If you've got some play then it's time to have a mechanic check the waterpump. While you are at it, how are your radiator / heater hoses. When did you replace them last. The factory wire hoseclamps are junk. Replace them when you have a chance with real hose clamps, not the formed wire factory junk. If you have a leak on a hose at a joint that is near the exhaust manifolds, well the coolant will turn to steam once it comes in contact with the mainfold and all your evidence more or less goes up in smoke to be cliche.

    I've saved the easiest for last and it's something that is frequently overlooked: Your heater core might be leaking. Check the carpeting on the pasenger foot area where the carpeting works it's way up the firewall. If you've got a leak there the carpet will be wet.

    These are just some thoughts and ideas but if some of the things I've written above sound totally foreign to you you might be ahead of the game getting your blazer in a shop for a coolant system pressure test. Just giving you some ideas to try to save a little money by eliminating the obvious. Good luck. I bet you are going to find it's something minor. :)
  • rwannrwann Posts: 1
    i took my 2002 trailblazer into the gm dealer for the recall work ,oil change, and a cam sensor problem. they replaced the cam sensor and did all the work including a tune up. i noticed an oil smell a week later and when i checked the oil i noticed the oil had been overfilled. i didn't do anything about it because they told me i had some oil blow by and i figured they overfilled on purpose. about two days later i noticed lots of oil spots on my driveway. when i took it back they said the air filter was saturated with oil due to the blow by and that i had no loose oil filter etc. they said it would require an engine replacement. it never leaked b4 i took it in. ithink i am being scammed. would the overfill cause this problem? how do i fix the leaks. they say it is oil blowing on the engine and dripping off. possible?
  • I have an 04 Chevy Trailblazer 5.4 V8 Engine. When I am at an idle, or low speeds, you can feel the car vibrating. This happens intermittently, so sometimes it happens and other times it won't. I have taken it to the two different dealers for a total of three occasions, and each time, the service technicians have told me that the vibration is a "natural characteristic" of the car and that there is no fix. I have told them that on a new car, this is unacceptable. I then went into talks with GM and they too have said that this is natural and that they can not fix it and will not replace the car.

    Has anybody else seen this or have had problems with this vibration. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
  • I have a 2004 Trailblazer that continues to have electrical problems. Problems range from the engine momentarily cutting out, to the security light or the check engine light flashing, to the headlights dimming when the vechile shifts. The dealership acts like I am a psycho to bring up these problems and deny they can find anything wrong. They have reprogramed the Trailblazer so many times, it should be able to do it on its own now. My husband talked with one of the service techs who said his sister's Trailblazer had similar problems. I get the sense they do not know how to fix it ... but then they are very dismissive of me any time I am there. Make my husband deal with them now. Have also had problems with a vibration at about 60 mph and an a/c leak. Did I just get the lemon, or is this common???? :confuse: :lemon:
  • 2002 Trailblazer...only 30,000 miles :surprise:
    Here's a good one!!!!
    Service engine soon light came on intermittently, then stayed on & reduced engine power light would come on too when car first started in the morning. aAfter car was running a while I restart car & reduced engine power light turns off but Service engine soon light still on. Brought to chevy dealer who put it on the computer & the following codes came up:P0530, P1221, P1634, P1481, P1635. They say main harness is rubbed through & faulty throttle body & both need to be replaced. I take car to my mechanic who does not see any damage to main harness, so thinks it just might be throttle body & orders the part. In the meantime I'm driving my car again & if upon exiting my car I turn on securuty system, all sensors get cleared out & car is running fine. What's up with that? Body control module shouldn't affect fuel system sensors?????
  • karenhkarenh Posts: 3
    Wow. Hate to say it, but glad I'm not the only one with all the Trailblazer issues. I posted my woes about my 02 TB with the electrical nightmare. Since then, the rear liftgate has stopped locking (as in...doesn't lock at all!!!) The alarm doesn't sound when ANY door is opened (including liftgate--how secure) Rear windshield wiper stopped working. Front windshield wipers pause half way down the windshield, engine stalls in reverse intermittently, keyless entry stopped working all together, loses power when you step on the gas too hard, shifting VERY hard from 1st to 2nd gear. I think they are ALL Lemons!!! The dealer I go to says that the BCM needs replacing, but, they wont guarantee that'll fix it. "could need to be flashed or need some new relays" is the best diagnosis I could get. ARGH!!! :mad:
  • Cannot find the fuse and/or relay for the rear wiper in my 2002 Trailblazer. Does anyone have that information? Wiper does not work. Testing with a voltmeter shows constant 12 volts at the wiper motor connection but nothing on the third does not energize in any switch position.

    I opened the electrical panel under the backseat and was surprised to see a green wire snaked into the panel and clipped into one of the fuses. The wire was pinched flat by both of the panel covers. It appears that this band-aid was done at the factory.
  • :cry:
    OK here's an update- replaced the throttlebody & "reduced engine power" light went out but "service engine soon" still coming on. They figured it was actually a "bad computer" now instead. They replaced the computer & everything was fine
    but the next day "service engine soon" light came back on. Everyone is baffled!
    Any ideas????? :confuse:
  • We recently WON!!! our Lemon Law case against GM. Vibration is more of a idleing problem. We were plagued with service engine lights, Stalling, A/C problems and a drive shaft being replaced twice. The dealership said the loud ping noise coming from the drive shaft was normal. They replaced my entire fuel system including fuel injectors and cat converter. I had to stay on their butts about all of it. The Texas Dept. of Transportation decided we had had enough. :lemon: Let me know if you need anymore info.
  • Can you tell me more about the vibration. My '02TB has a chronic vibration at 40, and 55-60. No one can tell me what is going on. The dealer has turned a deaf ear to it. What vibration did your TB experience. What was the problem ?. I want to sell it but I really like it.

    Kevin
  • yours sounds like a tire problem. My problem was never acknowledged by GM. They said if there is not a code on the computer, there is nothing to fix!!! Mine actually stalled while at a traffic signal several time. at the time it was running rough. It is all theirs now!!!!!!!!!!
  • We purchased an '03 Trailblazer in Sept. of '04. It drove fine (but had a few electrical issues) until July of '05. We were on our way to California and the transmission blew. The dealer eventually replaced the vehicle with another '03 Trailblazer. We drove that one for only a day and a half before that tranny blew! To date, the vehicle has been at their shop four times in the last 90 days for tranny work, and recently, on 10/16, the tranny blew again! We are now pursuing our rights under the lemon law, but the dealer is completely ignoring our calls and faxes!
  • My new 2005 TB has 7000 mi and the service engine light and reduced engine power light came on Monday. Car wouldn't drive over 20 mph. Called dealer& they said bring it in. I loped to the dealer. Said the electronic gas pedal was bad. Replaced it. Took car home. next morning got up and backed out of driveway and low and behold both lights came on again when I put car into drive. The max speed I could go was about 10 mph. This time they came and towed. Wasn't about to spend 1 1/2 hours creeping to dealership. They have had my car 4 days and they claim they can't get a reading from computer module what's wrong. Every day they say they couldn't duplicate problem and that they want to keep overnight and start it while it is cold. What's with that. It's almost the week-end and if they tell me to come get it I don't know what to do??? Anyone else with this problem. ???
  • wxman4wxman4 Posts: 53
    I had the SES light and the Reduced Engine Power light come on together as well, two different times. Each time the truck would barely run.

    Both times, (they were months apart) it was the ignition switch.

    Good luck
  • mparmpar Posts: 1
    It seems that you are having some of the same problems that I recently had! We have had the TB in the shop on three different ocasions with the same issues! It finally came down to a chafed wire that was getting wet and causing the power loss! After the same series of repairs as others have mentioned including the trottle and computer repairs all that it was was chaffed wiring that showed up when wet!

    Hope that this helps.
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