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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • terrmeyeterrmeye Posts: 3
    I don't get a "service engine light" everything just dies. But I guess that doesn't really matter. It seems like there have been problems with Trailblazers and Envoys for that last 3 or so years and nothing is coming from it.
  • Hi Michael,

    I had a similar problem with my 2004 Saturn Vue: the driver's side rear door would sometimes not unlock with the other doors & tailgate, when using the remote. I placed the key in the ignition in the run position (ENGINE NOT RUNNING)and held the "unlock" button for approximately 8 seconds. That apparently fixed the problem.

    By the way, I'm strongly considering the TB as my next vehicle. Anything I should know?

    Good luck,

    Matt
  • terrmeyeterrmeye Posts: 3
    My 2005 TB (I bought it brand new)only 14,200 miles on it now) is having a problem stalling here and there I've seen from the message board that there have been some Envoy's with the same problem. My Chevrolet mechanic has no clue what it could be and neither do we.
  • mjdartmjdart Posts: 11
    Thanks Matt, I'll try it when my son brings it home.
  • lagelage Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with my 2003 LT. I was going to put washers on longer screws and see if I could reuse the piece instead of reward GM for a crappy design by buying an over priced new one.
  • stopher1stopher1 Posts: 1
    I've had a light vibration at 70mph from the front. I think it is resonance from 40,000 miles used on the tires.
    Any tire recommendations ?
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    I had to replace the tires from the factory (Open Trail) at around 40,000 as well. I went with Michelin LTX M/S tires and now have 100,000 miles on my vehicle. I think there is enough tread to get another 20,000 miles. Best truck tires I have ever owned. To each his own though.
    -gmfan
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Yes, I did mine at 92,000 miles. My plugs looked good too. Not too difficult and it took me 1.5 hours. Fortunately for me though, my father-in-law has an ungodly number of tools which was the key. Not sure what you mean about plugs under the dashboard. The first plug is a little tricky since you have negiotate a cable before you lift out the coil, and the last one is also a little tricky since it is tucked under the wipers ledge area etc with not much room. Get a quote from the dealer- if under $120, then I would have the dealer do it. I think my dealer quoted me $205.
    -gmfan
  • There were a lot of posts that helped me with my 02, should be similar with the 05.

    I had the PCM re programmed three times (first two did not save for some reason) the third time was the charm. It did fix the erratic idling and stalling. However the SES light would come on all the time. It was the O2 sensor which the dealer replaced but it was so corroded it was difficult to replace. Anyway, they did and its been running like a champ for the past 4 months, HOWEVER the SES light comes on every now and again, but no adverse symptoms. At this point, I just deal with the light on. As long as its running okay! Its paid off next month and I hope to keep it for a while longer. I have 90K on it now.

    Hope this helps!
  • mjdartmjdart Posts: 11
    I highly recommend Yokohama "Geolanders" Low price, great treadware, very quiet, smoother ride. I put 'em on my wifes TB about 13K miles ago and they still look like new, awesome.
  • jworkmanjworkman Posts: 27
    I have an 02 TB LT 4WD with almost 100k. At about 90k, I developed a serious, immediate transmission fluid leak. Luckily, I was at home when I noticed Lake Dexron forming under my TB. Being fairly mechanical, I inspected the problem for myself, and found that the culprit was a very burnt hole in my trans cooler line. It seems GM, in their infinite wisdom, decided to run the trans cooler line up the passenger side of the vehicle, RESTING ON THE EXHAUST PIPES! They did cover the lines with some heat resistant fabric, which apparently lasts about 90k miles. I was tempted to fix the problem with an inexpensive brass compression fitting, since the trans cooler lines aren't under considerable pressure, but the desire to not get dirty prompted me to take it to the dealer (Culberson Stowers, Pampa, TX). MISTAKE # 1. Being familiar with the service manager, ( I have worked in various auto parts store for many years) he allowed me to enter the service bay and point out the problem to the tech. The tech nodded and said this was a common problem, which led me to ask the service mananger if GM was going to take care of this obvious design flaw. Has anyone else had a service manager laugh directly in your face? The guy told me that the replacement cooler line was about 60 bucks, would take less than hour to put on, and he could have it in 2 days. I swallowed my aggravation and told him to go ahead. The part actually came in a day early, but the service manager called to inform me that the line had been redesigned, and would not mate to the OTHER line that went on to the cooler. The other piece of line would be another 60 bucks, and they could have it the next day. I told him to forget it, I would come get the TB and fix it myself with a compression fitting. He went on to inform me that they had already pulled the tranny and the crossmember, and it would cost me 400 bucks labor to reinstall and come get my truck. I explained to him that obviously GM had found a problem with the original design, had updated it, and this was GM's problem, not mine. I was completely blown off, even after talking to the General manager and threatening to call the better Business Bureau. I was also out of town, and knew I would need the TB when I got home, so I had them fix it. So anyway, those of you who are mechanically minded might crawl under your TB and see how close your Trans cooler lines are sitting to your exhaust pipes. GM might have fixed this problem in later models (mine is an 02), as the part has been redesigned. Moral of this story.....just use the compression fitting...hahaha.
  • jworkmanjworkman Posts: 27
    Just a couple of other minor problems on my 02 TB 4WD LT.....does anyone else's door chime stay on if you start the truck with the drivers door open? I have to turn off the ignition, switch the headlights on, listen for the chime to speed up, and then when I turn the ignition back on, the chime stops. Also, and it has only happened a few times in the last year, and always when idling in park, the engine just turns off. It always starts right back up...I just chalked it up to crummy gas. I have also experienced the 4WD light "ghosting" on...but only when in cruise on trips, it seems. I call it "ghosting", because I have never felt the transfer case actually engaging...just the light coming on. And, just within the last month, I have heard what I thought was the tranny whining...but from reading the other posts, this might be a fan problem???
  • mfusillomfusillo Posts: 1
    I'm dealing with the problem as we speak. Are there any recalls for this or will GM/dealership pay for the repair?
    help meeeeee!!!!!!!!!
  • baltychenbaltychen Posts: 50
    Thanks a million. I'll try to do it myself. :)
  • hobbitdmbhobbitdmb Posts: 1
    Water pump replaced (not under warranty) at 44,000 miles, wrecked the serpentine belt, 7 days later, had to have catalytic converter replaced (under warranty). Was losing power... said it was clogged. That was at 45,000 miles. All on vacation of course! Just FYI!
  • rmt201rmt201 Posts: 1
    This really is bull hockey...........why would they GLUE glass to the hinge?!!!! We are having this problem, and my husband who knows how to do things correctly has used 3 or 4 types of adhesive now to repair this hatch. The dealer states they cannot get the kind of adhesive that they use at the factory. I too think this is faulty design.....why should I have to shell out $1200.00 when GM uses GLUE to hold the thing together at the factory. This just amazes me! And TICKS me off, too!
  • wheeler57wheeler57 Posts: 2
    THE RPM HAND RUNS AT AROUND 5500 TO 7000 EVEN AT AT 20 MPH BUT MOTOR DOES NOT REV UP ANY.ALSO WHEN TRAILBLAZER IS SHUT OFF RPM HAND WILL ONLY DROP TO 4 TO 5000 RPS & STAY THERE.ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED.OTHER THAN RPM HAND THER IS NOT ANYTHING WRONG WITH WAY CAR RUNS.THANKS
    1ST. TIME POSTING--NEW MEMBER
  • I've had my Trailblazer LT for around a year. When I purchased it I complained about a knock in the engine and was notified by the dealer that nothing was wrong. It still Knocks to this day. I really think somethings wrong. I.E. transmission or fan. I got my complaint and their response in writing and tried to talk to Chevy about it. They told me to get diagnostics and get back at them. Then a few weeks after the purchase I had a problem with my exterior lighting. First my top tail light panel went and I replaced it and then I have had my headlamps burn out (meaning the harness and connectors melt completely) several times and all together have had at least 9 bulbs fixed. I asked Chevy about recalls and was told there were none and after that found out that these problems were fixed a few times before I purchased the vehicle. I now also have a problem with my A/C in which it works when it wants. Any Suggestions? Please Help Me.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Anyone out there have a low pitched harmonic bass sound when braking from a speed range of 25 mph to 15 mph? The service manager blames the "boom" on the angle of the u-joint and says they will do nothing to fix it. I used to have an 02 TB (inline 6) and it never did this. I now have an 06 TB with the 5.3 V-8 motor. Any help would be appreciated. I know it is not a tranny mount and it does not do it when putting the vehicle in neutral while braking in that speed range. If you have the radio on or the A/C running you hardly notice it.
    -gmfan
  • bckareobckareo Posts: 3
    document everything...and get an attorney... I've had similar problems with my trailblazer, but am unable to qualify for the lemon law, because the original repairs did not occur under the original manufactor's warranty... ive had my transmission rebuilt, 4 fan clutchs, 2 times they have fixed my a/c....and ive only got 45000 miles on it...also you might want to call gm customer service and file a complaint... ive seen so much bad things about trailblazers on these boards, it just kills me... my car is a pos and there is nothing i can do about it. :lemon:.... also there is a gm document(bulletin) that my dealer provided me with, that just states that this is a normal problem for trailblazers, bs i know, you might want to take a look at it, it might help your case....document id#1765088, if you need me to send it to you, let me know
  • bckareobckareo Posts: 3
    Ive had similar problems, it is the fan clutch... it does not come up on diagnostic tests... but gm knows what is going on, they are just playing stupid, thats what they did to me... there is a document out that states that this is a normal condition for trailblazers and in the new models they have change the kind of fan clutch they manufacter, it states that the condition occurs if vehicle is parked at an incline, that vehicle reving is normal for the first 3 mintues that it is running, which is bs, this is a unacceptable stand the gm is taking on this problem... i have gotten my fan clutch replaced 4 times, and transmission rebuilt once, and it all started at 42000 miles... so document everything, make a claim with gm customer support... i dont know what else to tell you, becuase I am in the same boat, I have a copy of the gm document that states that this is a normal condition and for the techs not to repair it, if you would like it, please let me know...good luck
  • bckareobckareo Posts: 3
    Dont buy a Trailblazer, I have a 2003, with 45000 miles on it.. ive have already had to get the transmisson rebuilt, replace the fan clutch 4 times, and there is still problems... the fan clutch defect in this car makes it sound like the engine is reving really loud, sorta sounds like im driving a trash truck... and gm ssays its a normal occurance for trailblazers...gm states that it happens when turning on the car and for 3 mintues after that, and then it should disingage, mine doesnt, it does it everytime that i accelerate, also gm states that if you park the car at an incline it will do this, if its hot out it will over heat, it also effect the rate at which you accelerate... i would never buy a gm again...
  • staceypstaceyp Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Trailblazer in March. Someone pulled in front of me and I did not have time to stop. The front of my Trailblazer was smashed in. My passenger and I are suffering from neck, back pains, and plenty bruises (from the seat belt). With all of this my air bags did not deploy. Does anyone know of anyone else who has had this problem?
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Following up to see if anyone has ideas. It only does it "D" (drive) position and does not do it in "3" position. Any help would be seriously appreciated.
    Regards,
    Gmfan
  • ron_mron_m Posts: 188
    Ive had similar problems, it is the fan clutch... it does not come up on diagnostic tests... but gm knows what is going on, they are just playing stupid, thats what they did to me... there is a document out that states that this is a normal condition for trailblazers and in the new models they have change the kind of fan clutch they manufacter, it states that the condition occurs if vehicle is parked at an incline, that vehicle reving is normal for the first 3 mintues that it is running, which is bs, this is a unacceptable stand the gm is taking on this problem... i have gotten my fan clutch replaced 4 times, and transmission rebuilt once, and it all started at 42000 miles... so document everything, make a claim with gm customer support... i dont know what else to tell you, becuase I am in the same boat, I have a copy of the gm document that states that this is a normal condition and for the techs not to repair it, if you would like it, please let me know...good luck

    While this loud roaring noise due to a poor fan clutch design may be "a normal condition for TrailBlazers", it most definitely is not a normal condition in the automotive world as a whole. There's no way to describe to you how many Chevy and GMC pickup trucks and SUVs I have heard make this noise. Although I didn't particularly care for the fan clutch-related, loud roaring noise with my 2002 TrailBlazer LTZ, that wasn't the worst part of the problem. There is a temporary loss of horsepower with many GM pickup trucks and SUVs when this fan clutch issue rears its ugly head, and it can actually be dangerous at certain times. Like when you need to accelerate to get on the freeway, pull out into an interesection, etc.

    It's pretty sad how long that this problem has been present in many, many GM pickup trucks and SUVs. A good friend of mine has a 1996 Blazer LS that does the same thing. Another friend's 1999 2-door Blazer LS had the exact same problem.

    Good luck to you guys!

    Ron M.
  • bbarcenbbarcen Posts: 3
    I love my '02 TB. I have heard many horror stories, fortunately my TB hasn't given me any problems, yes the A/C does take a while to get cold, it shakes but only when my hubby is driving & hits 100mph (which he doesn't do anymore). The only problem I am having is it makes a clicking noise in the ignition area when i start it up. It only did it once in a while like a month ago, but now it is happening every time. What could it be?
  • bbarcenbbarcen Posts: 3
    I forgot to add..My TB has 52,00 miles on it. I have seen postings where a few people have said there Transmission blows out @ 57,000....my hubby says to sell it and upgrade...I love my TB,but don't want the aggravation...Is it time to let go?
  • Hope someone can help me out. I have a 2002 TB and the heater/AC blower will not work on setting 1,2,or 3. Works fine on 4 and 5. It sounds like a relay or fuse to me but cannot find anything. Any suggestions??

    Thanks
    Keith
  • manicommanicom Posts: 2
    What turned out to be your problem? Our 2002 TB has an air conditioning problem in that the temperature display (showing the outside temp) will start going down to -26 degrees several degrees at a time. Once it drops below about 40 degrees, the air conditioning stops working. Sometimes, you can keep turning it off and on and it will eventually start getting the temp back towards normal. However, it won't go to the correct outside temp ever now. We're in OK and we've been having over 100 degree temps every day. This is very inconvenient to say the least. Anyone know what the problem is here? HELP!!
  • Me too! I have the very same problem. Has anyone come up with a solution? I think if it is a bad sensor then repacing it should be the fix. I would think the computer is sensing the outside air temp and telling the compresor to come on or not.
    Do you know where the sensor is located.
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