2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

samk17

I hear more and more squeaking and rattling as the days go by... esp from the seatbelts adjusters and from within the door panels when I go over bumps. The car was solid when I first got it. I've only had the car for about 5 weeks now. Truly dissappointing. Anyone having similar problems? Is this something the dealer can fix?

gcmartin

I finally took delivery on my 2007 Tahoe LTZ. After three weeks of bashing around with dealers in the Houston area who wouldn't deal or wouldn't do dealer trades with Jim Jard, Jim Jard stepped up to the plate and put me in 2007 4x4 LTZ demo for an extremely fair and equitable price when I was only looking for a 2x4 LTZ. I wanted a 4x4, but could swing the big pricetag. I am a very happy new Tahoe owner after a not so wonderful experience with a 2004 Land Rover Discovery.

If you are in the market for a 2007 Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban or Escalade make the trip out to Rosenberg, Texas ten minutes south of Sugar Land on 59 at 36 and go see them. I promise you will be pleased with his service. A real refreshing experience from a professional salesman. I have found that no other GM dealers in Southwest Houston are as professional.

mrpistola

I bought some chrome door handles for my 2007 yukon, but the door panel removal instructions are illegible. I removed the switch plate, door lock knob, the bolt under the open handle and the bolt under the grip handle. Is there one I'm missing? The panel will not pop off like my 2002 does by pushing it up. Any ideas?

kssooner

Had our '07 Tahoe for about one month and around 1500 miles, we're around 15.4 MPG average and also have the 3.73 gears. We were also hoping that the unit would do around 20 MPG but it looks like wishful thinking and will probably not have this unit for a very lengthy period. Hank

landy man

Use silicone lubricant around all all door seals and along door panels. You can either spray it on or wipe it on with a cloth. Even wipe down the inside of the painted part of the doors where the seals may have left marks. Let everything dry thoroughly before you close the doors - usually about 10 minutes is fine. You may have to reapply every few thousand miles thereafter but should be satisfied with the results. As for tensioners, let the dealer look at that - don't touch them yourself.

hawkeye54

Had the same thing happen to my LT3. One fix - one minor adjustment. The dealer may need to replace the temp. sensor above your head (at least that's where most of the rattles radiated from for us). We also noticed the seat belt would squeak when the side panel adjustment was low. When it was it the top position - it does not squeak at all. So just move the seat belt adjustment to the top. Still need to figure out what is causing this, but at least you won't go crazy waiting for GM to find the fix.

tuscotodd

Hey guys -
After reading the info on what people are seeing with 3.73's vs 4.10's I did a bit of experimenting yesterday and noticed that if I drove in Tow-Haul mode, the Tahoe stays in V-4 mode MUCH more. In fact it will actually hold in V-4 going up light grades etc. This seems to go hand in hand with the rpm/torque multiplication observations noted in previous posts. For reference I was experimenting with the tow-haul at speeds of 35-45 mph, my 4.10 equipt LT3 basically holding in 3rd gear instead of going into OD.
Just thought I'd share my observations.
--
TuscoTodd

stever

Please continue the audio talk in the Tahoe/Suburban CD, MP3, iPod, AUX, XM, Sirius discussion. Thanks!

junglegeorge

Interesting, My LTZ- with 3:73’s will not activate the v-4 mode in third gear.

samk17

Can't really identify where the rattles are coming from.. must be a similar problem. As far as the seat belt squeak... my problem is just the opposite. When the adjustment is high it'll squeak. Now i'm getting a squeaking sound from the seatbelt latch on the seat and the center console area. ANNOYING. What did the dealer say about the seatbelt problem? Thanks~~

tuscotodd

junglegeorge -
I guess I should have clarified that, as mine won't activate with the selector in "3" either - however, at 35-45mph, with the tow-haul engaged, the transmission does not upshift into overdrive (you have to get to 50-55 before it will shift into overdrive in tow-haul mode). Hopefully that makes sense.
If not, you can replicate what I did by engaging the tow-haul button and driving at 35-45 mph hour (vey notable with the cruise engaged!). If you engage it from a standing start, you will notice that the transmission shifts later/at higher rpm - it is this alternate shift point program that holds it in third gear at the 35-45mph speeds.
--
TuscoTodd

yukon7

I reported the same problem, and the dealership said it was normal operation. I'm woried that the battery life could be affected by this.

junglegeorge

Yes that clears it up, mine reacts the same with slightly different shift points due to the 3:73's. Thanks George

jerrywimer

I'll be interested to hear if running with Tow/Haul mode on will actually improve your mileage results. A couple AV owners reported this same thing on a different board. I haven't bothered to test it with mine though.

junglegeorge

I ran my LTZ in tow mode on the way into work this AM, approximately 15 miles @ 45-55 MPH. As stated in an earlier post, the truck remained in 3rd gear as long as I stayed under 58 MPH, for the most part, the AFM allowed activation of the V4 mode as soon as I reached speed, on both level and slight upgrades. Very impressive, although a 15 mile trip is hardly a true test. I am however convinced that I should have opted for the 4:10’s .

hawkeye54

Haven't heard back from the dealer yet. However, dealer will have my tahoe next week so maybe he'll know the answer by then.

gcmartin

Just purchased both 9006/low and 9005/high kits from highintensityxenon.com. They will give you a big discount if you buy both kits. Will post pictures once they are installed. I opted for the 6K kits. I will install some 880 blue bulbs in the fogs to match. Maybe late I will get the HIDF kit for the foglights. Just too much right now!

deovindice

Interesting, I tried this today running 40 mph or so in Tow Haul (I have 3:73's) and it actually worked. Odd. Still doesn't solve the issue...which means it should work at actually highway speeds.

07denali

Anyone using this?

http://www.smartpark.net/usa/iConnect_11feb06.pdf

jerrywimer

Great to hear the experimental results you've all seen so far. But I still am curious whether your actual mileage goes up or down because of it. (Wonder if V4 in 3rd is better than V8 80% / V4 20% or less in overdrive)

davemec

I've had problems with all power functions in the passenger door not working from driver side and passenger side controls. To fix I restarted the car and everything started working again. I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and if so, what it might be, and how to go about getting it fixed since it is hard to reproduce.

I also wanted to see if anyone else noticed that the dinging in the driver door that happens when the turn signal is left on for too long is very low and really hard to hear.

One last weird thing that I noticed and wanted to see if anyone else had noticed. When I turn the car off, leave the key in the ignition, and open the door it beeps to warn me, but if I pull the key out then put it back in, it doesn't start to ding again to warn me unless I turn it forward first and then back to off position. not a big deal, just thought it was weird that it didn't always warn you if the key is in the ignition and the door is open.

Thanks for the help.

patinsd

:surprise: WOW, great find. Just called number on the flier. Roger said that all GM dealierships should be carring very soon. If you have never seen one of these work you will be blown away. It makes it so much safer to drive is really should be a standard item.

nosbor77

I've had the same thing happen to me twice. The second time, I parked, removed the key from ignition, walked to the passanger side to roll the passanger window back up (wouldn't work from driver side) and inspect the problem.

Never did figure out why it did that, so I had to put the key back in the ignition to power the windows (as expected) and my radio came back on (as expected). Once I had the passanger window rolled back up, I pullded the key from the ignition and radio stayed on (keep in mind, driver door is closed and passanger door is still open).

I thought this was strange. I couldn't get the radio to turn off by simply pulling the key. I had to either press power button on radio or walk over to the driver door and open it and shut it. I know they do this purposely so that radio stays on when key is out of ignition until you open the driver door to get out, but they obviously overlooked the possibility that someone may need to try to power up electronics from passanger side.

I was able to have all doors shut & locked with the key in my pocket and the radio blaring. What if I accidentaly left my key in the car and I was locked out.. Uh oh!! They didn't think of this one!! Can you say dead battery?? I only noticed radio didn't turn off b/c my music was loud enough to hear it. This could have happened un noticed if music was lower and I walked away thinking it was off. If this happend at night, you'd be an unhappy camper trying to get to work on time.

tuscotodd

nosbor77 -
Just for reference, the radio will go off after either 10 or 15 minutes (can't remember which it is set for). I think it is tied into the whole circuit sensor deal that powers down a circuit if there is a draw on it without the car running. This applies to dome lights, etc as well. If I leave my lift gate up the dome light goes out after the same type of time frame. Just thought you might want to know this if you didn't already.

07tahoeguy

I have had the same thing (I Think) happen once, but did not check to see if the windows would work. We got into the vehicle and neither of the front doors would lock or unlock. I tried by using the key FOB, door lock and unlock on the armrest on both sides and the Tahoe would not auto lock the front doors when it went into drive, but it would secure every other door including the rear hatch. I shut the Tahoe off and restarted it, still nothing. I had to remove my key from the ignition to get it to reset. Didn't even attempt to call the dealer because it is intermitant. My Tahoe has 8700 miles on it now and this has only happened to me once. If anyone else has a clue about it, please post!

rockin_ltz

Hey GCMartin...Don't think those kits are going to work if you've got an '07 Tahoe.

The '07's take the H11 bulb and NOT the 9005 and 9006.

I did this conversion a month or so ago...And know that my bulbs had to be H11's.

If you go back to post #1277 you can see pics of my lights. I got the 6000K for my LTZ and they ended up being a lot bluer than I was expecting. I also bought the 8000K for my Honda...And these are REAL BLUE!!

rockin_ltz

Question from davmec:
"I also wanted to see if anyone else noticed that the dinging in the driver door that happens when the turn signal is left on for too long is very low and really hard to hear."

Hey davemec...You can actually adjust the volume for all the chimes in the DIC. Check your manual on setting your preferences for the different features...And one of them is the chime volume. I changed mine to be so loud that my wife now complains about them.

davemec

That is what happened to me, except only the passenger side door. When the window wouldn't work using the driver or passenger door buttons, I tried the locking buttons and they didn't work for the passenger door either. It only happened to me once also, so I knew that it would be hard to get the dealer to do anything about it. Just wanted to see if maybe someone here had success with getting it looked at by the dealer.

davemec

I tried to do that and set the chime volume to loud, but it didn;t seem to change the level when the turn signal was left on, but it did change all other levels (door open, lights on, etc). It seemed strange that somehow the chimes would be different for the different functions. I'll try it again to see if maybe I did something wrong.

gcmartin

Thank you for the info. The low is definitely an H11. The hi-beam is different. Just confirmed with Chevy that hi-beam is 9005. High Intensity Xenon has sent me the right kit for lows.

Chevy also confirmed that the fog is proprietary, but I still think it is an 880. Will confirm when I disassemble them.

gcmartin

Since you installed them a month ago how are they holding up? Any regrets about conversion? I am putting the Zoomers exhaust on tomorrow.

patinsd

FYI-Just received an email from GM. Looks like they are giving and extra $500 off on the 2007 Tahoe for people with supplier discounts.

kssooner

gcmartin
let us know how the exhaust change out works, cuz i'm very interested. thanks
kssooner

rockin_ltz

Hey GCMartin...IMHO this is the best mod I've done to my LTZ so far. I LOVE The looks and the improvement in the head lights. No problems whatsoever after doing the install!!

Now I haven't gone as far as a LOT of others here on the board with their mods...But think that you'll be very pleased with the HID's.

After hearing all about these exhaust systems that you guys are installing...I might have to look into this too!!!

Only problem is...This is our family bus (in other words, my wife drives it 99% of the time with my two kids) and I'm not too sure that an exhaust mod will be something for the "family wagon" !!!

Let me know how your install goes and what you think about it...Maybe I will give it a shot!!!

tony97gt

I recently purchased my HID Kit from Genuine Auto on Ebay. The ad claimed a "3 Year, No Hassle" warranty. One of the ballasts stopped working several days after I installed it. When I emailed Genuine Auto requesting a new ballast, they tried to make me advance them $15 for return shipping. After I brought it to thier attention that it was a defective product and told them I was not paying for return shipping (from them back to me), then they "realized" I just bought it a week beforehand. So I mailed my old ballast in because the only way they will send out a new one is after they "receive and test" the defective one I sent back. What a crock of #$%^. Thats not what I call a "no hassle" warranty. When someone pays a few hundred dollars for a brand new product and you mail them a defective product, you should be jumping to mail out a replacement ASAP. Cause if they did I would have reccomended them to everyone for price and service. But I guess I got what I paid for.

I'm still waiting on them to "receive and test" my ballast. Next few days go by and my attorney is getting involved. :mad:

gcmartin

I didn't have that problem with High Intensity. They had the wrong part number for the low beams and had sent it out. When I called them after rockin ltz noticed the mistake, they sent the right one out and trusted me to send the wrong part back. I think many of the ebay sellers are operating on a very thin margin and can't afford even the the shipping on a bad order! Many are just not good risks.

pg476a

Has anyone been informed of a fix for these moldings. Mine are loose and when I go to the dealership, I'd like to be able to enlighten them if they don't know whats going on with these pieces.

07denali

Thats what you get from Ebay, Ebay is the rock bottom as far as retailers go. Very rarely does the cheapest price go along with great service. I always try to buy from places in the middle price range.

rockin_ltz

This problem with the L molding has been an issue since day 1 with the new Tahoes. I was one of the first to by an '07 and had brought this to my dealers attention the day I took delivery. I've been told that GM is aware of it and is "working on a fix"...Yeh right!!!

Maybe you can check with your dealer since mine hasn't been to helpful...And maybe they have implemented a fix for this and nobody's told me. If you do find something out...Please let us all know as I think we are all experiencing this problem.

73shark

I took delivery of mine on May 17 (built the previous week) and so far the "hockey stick" molding is staying fixed. Check it every time I wash it. I'm not sure what the purpose of it is since previous models didn't have it. Guess if it ever comes off, I'll be able to see why it's there.

tuscotodd

kssooner -
I put the Zoomer's system on my '07 and absolutely love it! Fit and finish was top knotch! I installed it in my driveway, and all of the hangers were properly positioned and indexed - very easy to install and the system looks and sounds great!
I'll be intersted to hear how gcmartin makes out as well - as I've had my system for roughly 3500 miles and really like it!

fierygems

I recently purchased some matching splash guards for my 07 tahoe, they are the same ones pictured in Dave's post #1056. Only problem is the fronts don't seem to fit, and the back does fit, but not exact. I know dave has his on an escalade, but I thought it would fit. Anyone buy the same guards and got them to fit on the tahoe? Thanks in advance, heres a link to an example of the one I bought http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-CADILLAC-ESCALADE-SET-WHITE-MOLDED-SPLASH-GU- - ARDS_W0QQitemZ170015839481QQihZ007QQcategoryZ50455QQssPageNameZWD6VQQrdZ1QQcmdZV- - iewItem.

Tan

rockin_ltz

OK...All this talk about these exhaust systems has got me interested. However, I have a few questions:

Does changing this exhaust void or in any way effect your warranty?? I purchased the 5 year 75K mile extended warranty and want to make sure it won't be voided.

Is there any issues with the way this sounds when the truck switches over to the V4 mode?

I have little to no mechanical experience (and limited tools), so is this something (installing) that I can do myself?

Lastly...This may be old news, but below is a link to where you can see some pics and videos of this system. It sounds really AWESOME when they are getting on it from a dead stop!!

http://www.zoomersexhaust.com/vehicle_chevrolet_tahoe.asp

Anyone's advice or input would be MUCH appreciated.

tuscotodd

rockin ltz -
To answer your questions:
- I can't see what effect the exhaust would have on the warranty. I've had my tahoe in for service (oil change, air bag sensor replace, etc) and the only comments I got were - "Who's system is that?!? - That sounds NICE!" The service manager even asked for the contact info for the company, as he was going to look into offer it as a "dealer installed" option at their dealership.

- There is a slight change in the exhaust note when going from V-4 to V-8, but sounds good in both modes and there is no funky drone, etc either V-4 or V-8.

- Installation is a breeze using simple hand tools in your own drive way. The system came well packaged and comes with directions as to how to remove your original system and then install the new system. (with pictures!) I consider myselt to have a pretty varied mechanical back ground, but I would think that if you change your own oil, this system's instructions are detailed enough, that you would have no issue with the install.
Hope that helps!

rockin_ltz

Cool...Thanks for the quick reply. I see where you had been corresponding with Ron over at Zoomers on the GM-Trucks.com board. I know he was discussing a "Group Buy" price if 10 people would commit to ordering. Do you mind if I ask what you did pay for your system? Does it come with everything needed including the tip?

One other question too...When you're cruising at higher highway speeds (70-80 mph), is it very noisy? I ask as I don't want it to interfere with my 2 girls and their watching of their videos in the back seat.

That system sounds awesome from what I could hear on Ron's videos. I think I may have to break down and buy me one!!

Thanks again for all your help.....

tuscotodd

Rockin LTZ -
Yeah - I was the first to sign up for the group buy on the other board at the $749 price and to the best of my knowledge - the group buy is still open - so you may want to give Ron a call and talk to him to see if you can still get in on the deal.
The system that he shipped they ship definitely comes with everything you need. The brackets are welded on so that the system pops into the factory mounts and then it is just a matter of using the three supplied clamps to attach the pieces together. Fit and finish is definitely top notch!

The noise at speed is going to vary depending on what gear ratio you are running to an extent. I have 4.10's in my LT3, and at speeds up to roughly 72 mph the system is pretty quiet while cruising. Once I get up to around 80 at a steady cruise, it is notably loader - but I am also spinning 2500 rpm. For me, it isn't objectionably loud - but it is definitely noticable.
Heck - if you are anywhere in the Ohio-Michigan and want to give it a listen in real life, drop me a line!
(Definitely one of my most enjoyed upgrades thus far!)

gcmartin

rockin ltz

I was told by Ron at Zoomers that it will not violate or cancel your warranty. He did mention that if you put an intake on you will need to remove it every time you go in for service. For this reason I opted for the K&N filter as it will not violate warranties. I might do a DUB later on, but taking it off every time is a real pain.

stever

SEMA has a page about aftermarket products and warranty issues:

Warranty Denied?

samk17

Everyday a new squeak and rattle. I'm getting loud rattling coming from the rear doors now. This is getting out of hand now. Am I the only one? I shouldve expected this from a new GM product.

gcmartin

How many miles. Mine has 5900. No unusual noises coming from the interior.