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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon
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Comments
Yesterday, I had the same problem again with the window at lunch time. By the time I got off work, it was operating normally once again.
Has anyone had this problem/gotten results from the dealer?
I am so mad with the being such a new vehicle and costing so much. I would like to get this resolved.
The first time when trying to operate from the driver side door panel, the window would not work. I honestly cannot recall if I tried the passenger door panel that time. However, the second time it happened, it did work from the passenger door panel, but not the driver side.
2008 - 4WD
3LT- LT3 Equipment Group
U3U – Navigation AM/FM/MP3
RCS – 20” Polished Aluminum Wheels
CF5 – Sunroof
AS3 – 3rd Row Removable Vinyl 50/50 Bench Seat
PDD – Convenience Package #2
UVC – Rearview Camera System
V1K – Luggage Rack Cross Bars
YF5 – California Emissions Requirements
Recall #?
Date issues?
All 07 Tahoes?
Also..if your battery has been drained stone cold a number of times, chances are you will need a new battery defore its expected lifespan.
Like many questions this depends on the assumptions going in. I think that we can all agree that you can't pay much less for what you ordered. So it was a good price. But did you get a good deal? Maybe not.
The NAV option is grossly overpriced and not very good (see above posts). We should just call West Marine and buy Lowrance.
The sunroof option has always struck me as being something one uses for the first week or so. I rarely find anyone actually driving with them open because of wind noise, temperature, etc. The only time I see anyone driving with one open is in slow urban traffic where the driver can be "noticed" by fellow drivers as a cool dude.
The 20" wheels are going to give you a horrible, jiggly ride (just check out the October issue of Automobile Magazine), be lousy in snow and impossible in mild off road stuff such as a muddy construction job site or a sea weed slippery boat ramp, prone to balancing problems, cost much more for replacement tires, ad nauseum. The fact that you actually paid extra for these is mind boggling.
Did you get a good price? Yes. Did you get a good deal? No. Unfortunately, there is a significant difference between the two.
I have an 07 Tahoe that is equipped almost exactly as the one you ordered. I have the power lift gate as well, but maybe that is included in the Convenience Package #2 you listed because it is definitely convenient. I feel it is a must have option. It' wonderful to have that when your hands are full - just a push of the key fob.
I have the Nav system and it includes the very easy to operate touch screen radio. I've not ever had a Nav system and don't claim to be a buff on this, but mine has gotten me to many places without getting lost. Maybe it's just a "don't know what I'm missing" situation, but hey, if I don't know what I'm missing, how can I miss it? And, you have to have the screen to have the backup camera, which is also very handy since there are blind spots when backing up. Besides, from a purely cosmetic standpoint, the Nav radio looks so much better and more modern than knobs and buttons.
I have sunroof and use it daily (and I've had my Tahoe for a year and a half). I live in the mountains of So. California and our weather lends itself to the sunroof. And when the weather is not as pleasant, I have it open with the air on, or the heater on. The open feeling is great. It's not a "must have" but it's a little luxury that's terrific if it's in your budget.
I also have the 20" wheels, which I had chromed because I didn't like the brushed aluminum look as much, and have driven through a terrible snow storm (we also get snow here)where many cars had slid off the road and I had no trouble at all. The car never let me down, even when I was taking evasive action to not be hit by another. I have not taken it off road, but never had any intention to do that when I bought it so I can't attest to it's off-road-worthiness. Who wants to off road in such a big vehicle? That's what my Jeep is for. I can attest to the cost of the tires though. I just got new ones last week to replace the factory tires. I got 19,100 miles on the stock tires and paid just over $1000.00 for new Goodyear tires. The new ones seem to have a beefier tread and should do very well. The ride is smooth and not noisy at all. I had a Z71 Tahoe before, so this is a definite improvement over it's stiff and sluggish ride.
All this said, I hope I helped a bit. You'll love your new Tahoe. Don't be deterred by negative feedback. And you'll look darn good driving it. I know I do!!
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Not good. Those factory tires should, under normal driving conditions be giving you at least 40,000 miles. I have 26K miles on the my '06 factory tires and they hardly look worn.
Steve in Saratoga Springs, NY
Please remember that for most of us we are spending after tax dollars so a 45K vehicle requires us to earn maybe 57K in a W2 statement. In other words, a 45K vehicle is going to cost us about 1K per week for 57 weeks to pay off.
YMMV
I was just at a dealership having a discussion about what options I needed, and the salesman was trying to convince me that the 4WD 'auto' setting, was the same as the Locking Differential. Now to me this absolutely makes no sense, unless it is done electronically via braking of the spinning rear wheel.
How I thought this worked, was that the 'auto' setting basically ran in 2wd, unless it sensed it needed '4wd' and if so would shift the front wheels into 4wd-high gear by itself. (I'm personally not crazy about it doing that at what I understand can be at up to 55mph, and will probably control it myself in 2wd mode, but that is a separate topic.)
I also thought the rear locking differential G80 option is the same differential Chevy has had for 10 years.
Am I off base here and have an incorrect understanding ....or is the salesman all wet?
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That salesman needs a course in basic automotive applications. The locking differential has nothing to do with the 4x4 drive train system. The locking differential, formerly called PosiTraction works in 2 and 4 wheel drive and is active anytime you are driving. And that "auto" setting??? Who needs it. Most drivers report getting lower fuel economy when in that mode. Just drive in 2x4 until you need more traction then punch in the 4x4 button. No problem.
Well I did start thinking about how they could electronically give you a locking differential. With all of the skid control technology and wheel sensors now adays...you could detect wheel slippage on a rear wheel, and put the brakes on that wheel, thereby forcing power transfer to the other rear wheel. Not outside the realm of possibilities, just didn't think GM did anything like that since they have called it the same thing (with the same option number G80) from my '97.
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Why try to come up with some electronic locking differential when you don't need it? The lockup is a mechanical function, not electric. Much simpler and this technology has been around for more than 45 years. GM originally called it PosiTraction. Traction control and skid control are two different things. You don't want to detect slippage and then brake it...you want to control the slippage and lock it up for more power and traction to both rear driving wheels.
GM is actually at the cutting edge of some very ambitious and advanced technolgy: Chevy Fuel Cell Technology
You could be eligible to test drive one of those vehicles if you live in the right place.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Markets/Automotive/TorqueControls/index.htm
I have read all the replies to the cricket noise and not sure if I have the same thing happing with mine. I have this noise that sounds like a high pitch squeal or a monotone cricket. It seems to only do it intimately at low speeds (up to 35 or so) and only during acceleration. It does not do it when I turn the wheel, and it’s not the radio. What gives? Is this the same thing you had wrong with yours Shawn? Thanks
Dave
I've seen the G-80's take some pretty impressive abuse and won't buy a truck/SUV without one now!
(the most impressive example of this is my buddy's '87 Cutlass 442 with a .060" over 455 under the hood that runs 12.60's on drag radials while on a good day lifting the front wheels 6-8" off the ground for 15-20 feet. That rear has stood up for 8 summers of burn outs at the track and playing on the street and other than annual lube changes has had no required service! I personally think that is a pretty impessive example of the reliability of the design)
Here is a link to the 20% grade with rollers (2wd open vs 2wd G-80, 4wd open vs 4wd G-80 equipt)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8nAbg5suFw
There are other videos showing how it works, use in a "twist ditch", etc.
It's really too bad that GM doesn't do a better job of either educating it's sales force, or giving them the tools to "show" the advantages of options like this to customers. (kind of reminds me of the blank look I got from the local salesman when I asked about getting quadra-steer on a Silverado a couple years ago. He had no clue what it even was, or what the advantages were.) :-\
Congrats on your new purchase. I know you are anxiously awaiting it's arrival. Like you I found many great ideas/suggestions from this site from others that OWN or in the PROCESS OF OWNING a Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban. I found it very useful from the many posters that gave insightful feedback. I actually spent several weeks going back and reading all of the posts from the beginning to make sure there wasn't something that I had missed. Unfortunately there will be a few 'professional posters' that jump from forum to forum just to throw rain on your parade or the entire GM product line.
I own a 2007 Denali, I previously owned a 2002 Denali. I also ordered mine with most of the same options that you did. Sunroof....love it, live in Texas and don't get to use it much, but it is worth every penny to ME. I also ordered the 20' rims & tires along with the retractable running boards.........Smooth ride and handling. I have been through creekbeds, mudholes and boat launches with no problems or slippage. I get more positive feedback from the rims and running boards than anything else. Was it worth it to ME....most definitely.
Did you get a good deal? Are you happy with the dealership and the salespeople? Did they walk you through the entire process and spend time explaining all of the options? Did they know what a locking differential is? If you are happy with all of those answers....then most likely YOU got a good deal, and will be happy with the service they provide you after the sale.
Let's face it, the cars that we drive from day to day are depreciating assets that get us from point A to B. So buying new car every couple of years doesn't make economic sense. But if I lived by that logic, I would still be driving a seafoam green 1968 Chevy Stepside with no AC and 3 on the tree. Come to think about it, I still wish I had it....I miss that truck. :shades:
Clearly the General wants to limit the high tech content to limit the headaches, warranty claims, and added costs. That is their perogative. But they are not introducing or even using current technology in their vehicles.
For anyone that has the Weathertech Floor Liner system mentioned above does the third row section that comes up the aisle between the buckets bump up against the second row mat that goes all the way across or is there a gap between the two mats where they meet?
Thanks,
I do know that a basic brake job on any four wheel disc brake European car is going to cost you a grand before you drive home. On some cars such as Land Rovers, you will be spending this grand every 18,000 miles. So, maybe drums aren't so bad afterall.
"the truth is that today's disc/drum setups are completely adequate for the majority of new cars. Remember that both disc and drum brake design has been vastly improved in the last 20 years. In fact, the current rear drum brake systems on today's cars would provide better stopping performance then the front disc setups of the '70s. And today's front disc brakes are truly exceptional in terms of stopping power. Combined with the fact that between 60 and 90 percent of a vehicle's stopping power comes from the front wheels, it's clear that a well-designed, modern drum brake is all that's required for most rear wheel brake duty."
Brakes: Drum vs. Disc
I've done front discs recently and but haven't done any rear drums since back in the mid-70's. The big issue for me as a sometime d-i-y'er is that the rear discs are sometimes screwy because of the parking brake mechanism back there. I don't remember the rear drums being all that easy either though.
Also, I don't like having to reach behind me to adjust the rear a/c controls. They used to be on the top by the sunroof controls. You can't tell a 3year old or a dog to turn the a/c up or down!
Gas mileage was better on my 04 esclade which had better acceleration at 14 mpg avg, here I am only getting 12.9 ( but I only have a couple of thousand miles, so I have to let the break in period be taken into consideration)
I like the rear camera, but it takes a long time to come on and my Mother's Nissan Murano has a much more accurate view with guide lines to show the actual car and it's pathway, I find this system to be inaccurate except to see if something big is behind you.
Another dissapointment is the hard to read gauges and especially the fuel gauge, once you near empty it drops all the way and have no idea how much gas you have left.
Lastly, the seats don't fold flat and you loose what used to be a big great flat cargo hold...
I would have loved to wait to see the new Sequoia, but I needed to get out of my lease. Oh well... hopefully it will be as reliable mechanically as my last one was!
Months ago, my mother was driving her '04 Suburban and said there was this new loud chirp/squeal sound intermittently. Then it went away. Then it came back, and baffled my mechanically inclined father too, who even went underneath, checked brakes, etc. and nothing.
Then a few weeks ago, they were helping me move, and we went out to dinner and the whole way up the street around 35-40, there would be a loud chirp every 10-20 seconds from the one back corner (we had the air on, front and rear) AND there was a new odd whirring sound coming from the rear vents when I had the blower on back there. Then the whirring stopped, but the chirping continued.
Never had heard anyone else mention this...but randomly pop on here, and WOW, other people have too! I'll have to keep checking in and keep that part in mind.
His third sentence says that "...current rear drum brakes..would provide better stopping performance then (sic) the front disc set ups of the '70's". Is he suggesting that if you put current rear drum brakes on the FRONT axle of a 70's car they would out-stop the front disc brakes then being used? This is an interesting notion, maybe something the guys at CarCraft could do, but without a shred of empirical evidence.
Earlier he tells us that the current drum brakes have "vastly improved" over the last 20 years. He never amplifies this sweeping statement to specify where the improvements came from or how they show up. Materials? Stopping performance? Fade Resistance? Do the linings no longer get wet while going through puddles?
Don't know about the Denalis but my Tahoe rear A/C can be operated from the front by punching the Aux button. Not sure why it's not called rear A/C. The rear controls can also be operated by rear passengers.
"I find this system to be inaccurate except to see if something big is behind you."
My shows almost straight down behind me. Can see the hitch ball. Makes hooking up a breeze.
"have no idea how much gas you have left."
Doesn't the Denali have the DIC? Mine tells me how many gallons I've used which subtracted from 26, tells me what's left. This assumes zeroing out when filling. I agree that the gauges are hard to read in the daytime, especially with sunglasses. Also don't care for the non-flat load floor but since I put a console between the second row seats, it's a moot point.
And for blckislandguy, I routinely pull my jet ski up a very steep, algae covered ramp in 4WD on my 20s with no problem.
A few more links for you:
CanadianDriver (last two paragraphs; more dust in the back and cheaper to maintain)
Popular Mechanics (drums are lighter and have less friction when not applied, so your mpg is better).
Family Car (that parking brake thing)
You may want to take this to Stop here! Let's talk about brakes. You'll get more responses and we won't bore the Tahoe owners to tears.