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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • kimosmkimosm Posts: 7
    I have ran out of time , patience , and money . We did have the PCM changed and they said they cleaned the wires and connectors. Also they cleaned out the o2 sensors. The check engine light has came back on .I am a mother of three small children and school is starting up soon . The fumes are coming up inside the Durango . The black exhaust comes up over the the back of the car really bad while ilding . (very embrassing) . Thank you for all your help . This forum got some of the mechanics pointed in right direction . It took 2 months before anyone would touch it.
  • Do you still have the Durango or did you trade it in on something else? What state do you live in?
  • billyk3billyk3 Posts: 1
    There is a resistor pack under the blower motor under the passenger side dashboard.One plug and 2 screws takes it out.The part costs 12.00 at the dealer.
  • Today I replaced the power steering pressure switch (diagnostic code after check engine light came on indicated I should do this) and there was ps fluid in the connection. I blew it out. Am I to understand that I should anticipate an O2 sensor problem down the road? I just hit 135K on my 2000 4.7 Durango Sport. Can anyone around Michigan help? Do I need to buy a bypass wire or does someone know what needs to be done exactly? Anyone know what's in the bypass kit?
  • kimosmkimosm Posts: 7
    I live in a Lower South Eastern State . I have took it to a mechanic friend of my dad's and he is going to pay it off and try to fix . I gave him all of information that was given to me in this forum. About the $66 bypass. I asked the dealership about this bypass and they said it wouldn't be a good idea because it would cause the computer to get a bad reading from something else. I think they just didn't want the responiblty of fixing it or wanted me to buy the whole wiring harness for $1400 .
  • We finally replaced the computer in our 99 Dodge Durango. We had previously replaced the crank sensor and it was still randomly stalling. The computer replacement has seemed to fix the problems (knock on wood) Amazing that Dodge put a 8 year 80,000 mile warrenty on this defective part when in fact it should just have been a recall. Pretty sad!

  • We have a 2001 and had pretty much the same problem. We put a new gas cap on it and no longer had check engine light come on. Gas cap was bad and leaking air into fuel system.
  • Can any one tell me what the soulation is for the over heating problem.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    I have written about this in this forum. The dealership does sell a o2 wiring bypass for about $66.00. This bypass connects to your o2 connector and will reroute the wires to the pcm module. Make sure you clean out the o2 connector with electrical spray before reconnecting. The reason is that the ground wire from the ps switch is a common ground with the o2 ground and the fluid travels through this ground to the o2 sensor. I just replaced the "ground wire on the harness side" with a "new ground wire run seperate from anything else".
    DO NOT CUT THE WIRES ON THE o2. If you have a bosh o2, the "white wire" should be the ground. Match the white wire at the connector to whatever color wire that is on the harness side, cut that wire. Solder a new ground from that wire to a ground. The color on the harness side of my onnector was black with a blue stripe i believe. Check yours to be sure. Good luck
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Can any one tell me what the soulation is for the over heating problem.

    The solution will depend on what's causing the problem. It could be as simple as your radiator cap not holding pressure adequately or your thermostat not functioning properly. Have you checked your radiator coolant level? You may have a leak somewhere in your system.

    tidester, host
  • Hello,

    First time posting here but had a problem hopefully someone can help me with.

    Have a 99 Dodge Durango 5.9 4WD that recently has been having these stalling problems i've read about on here.
    It will run just fine,but out of the blue it will die on me at different times.sometimes idling,or even sometimes driving it will just quit.but will usually start back up right after.

    The check engine light has been on since i've had it,but thats been 1.5 years ago and the vehicle was used.
    I tried to fire it up today and it ran just fine idling in the driveway with no problems.the main problems happened last week in the 95-100 Degree weather.

    If anyone may know what i should start with on this,i'd appreaciate any info.

  • I received some info on the forum about the AC blower resistor which is found under the passenger side dashboard. The part cost $12 from the dealer so I am going to pick one up tomorrow and try it out. I will email again to let you know if it works.
  • :cry: We have had some issues with the radio shutting down in the past but it
    always comes back on. Then on sunday we were on our way back from cali
    and I jumped a bump a bump nothing seemed to happen -why would it this
    is an suv right? Then about an hour later the radio (which is stock)
    shut down, then the int lights stopped working, then when we took the
    keys out the car still dings. so we checked the fuses and the relays
    the int fuse was blown and when we replace it it pops instantly. The
    relays are fine except the int relay is making a clicking noise when
    you turn the headlights on. So I drove the car to the store and it ran
    fine (just no radio or int lights) the next morning when I went to go
    to work it wouldn't start!!! so after checking all fuses the starter fuse was also blown! A friend came over and my car is now in a million pieces they have taken the whole inside apart and unplugged everything and it is still blowing the int fuse. Has this happened to anyone? HELP!!!
  • Problem solved. I had the radiator flushed and the thermostat changed and it seems to be fine now.
  • You're postings have helped a tremendous amount and I plan to rewire my dakota tonight. Same problem with the power steering switch leaking and fouling the o2 sensor. I have a new sensor and switch that I will be installing, but had a couple questions on the wiring. Is the O2 sensor failing inside the sensor itself and not the wiring connector/plug to harness? I mean the fluid flows down into the sensor body and fouls it's circuitry? I would like to just take the O2 sensor, cut the 4 wires and splice in about a foot of new wire, soldering the connections and sealing around the soldered connection, which would isolate the sensor from the vehicles wiring and not allow oil into the sensor, but my concern is that the short is in the plug to the harness?
    Thank you so much for any help. This will be the third sensor.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    If you have a new o2 sensor, just cut the ground wire on the harness side of the o2 connector and run a new ground wire. The ground wire is whats at fault. Unless you buy a new "Bypass o2"harness from the dealership, which will have instructions on where to connect the other three wires, I dont recommend cutting all the wires. The dealership bypass for the o2 cost around $66.00. A piece of wire to replace just the ground wire will cost you about $2.00, and you dont have to worry about the other three wires.The ground wire from the p/s switch and o2 share a common ground. Hense the problem. Good luck
  • Justin,

    I see that the recommendation is to just replace the ground wire for the O2 sensor. If this works, congratulations.

    If it doesn't, such as mine, I cut all 4 wires above the factory front O2 harness (vehicle side) and ran all 4 wires in a new harness. The location that they all tie into is by the air cleaner box.

    I unsoldered the factory pins that are inside the plug, and soldered my new wires to the existing pins. I would recommend going to the factory to see if the individual pins can be purchased. (I didn't - as the day I was doing this was Sunday).

    At the time, I put in a new O2 sensor, although the old sensor may be good. Insert & see.

    About 2 weeks after I cured the front O2 sensor, the back O2 sensor brought on the check engine light. To date (about a month), I have not corrected the wiring for the second sensor. The ground wire for the 2 sensors and power steering switch are all coupled together.

    I hope the ground wire takes care of the problem. If not - let us know. Good luck.
  • gutmangutman Posts: 3
    i have the p/s, o2 problem too and all your help has been great but not beeing a savey machanic i dont know which "thing" on the fender well to splice into, since cant follow the wt wire from sensor all the way up. thanx for any help
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    What white wire are you talking about? I called bosh, the manufacturers of my o2 to find out what wire was the o2 ground. The white wire from the o2 to the connector is the ground wire. On the opposite side of the connector, the wire will be a different color. That is the wire you cut, run a new ground up next to the pcm module. Not to the pcm but next to it. On the fender well next to the pcm, you will see a few wires that come from the pcm to this ground. This is where I ran the o2 ground to for my connection. It's a ground. The two black wires on the o2 are for the o2 heater. The other wire is the hot wire or signal wire for the o2.
  • gutmangutman Posts: 3
    thanx for the help aray2, i will give this a shot and let you know what happens!
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