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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi all, I have a 5.9 l 2000 Dodge Durango SLT. Recently my truck has been overheating so I came here to troubleshoot unfortunately I cannot find any previous topics on my problem so here it goes.
    The problem I'm having is that my truck overheats when I'm driving at low speeds. My heater doesn't work very well on in town driving and when I'm stopped it doesn't work at all. The only way to cool my truck down is to stop and put it into neutral and rev the engine at about 2000 rpm's. When I do that my heater works and my engine cools. The truck stays cool when I'm on the freeway and the heater blows very hot. So it is really making this a head scratcher. I'm stuck it has me thinking water pump, electric radiator fan, radiator fan relay, or possibly a partially stuck thermostat?
    Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • I bought my 04 Hemi D new and generally think its a good vehicle. One concern I have is that the gearing is "wrong"for our BC Canada posted limits. I drive 100 in the 90k zones 110 in the 100's and 120-130 in the (rare) 110 zones. Only at around the 130k mark does the truck feel smooth and give best economy. At lower speeds/rpm's i'm kicking it down to (3rd?)and then it runs like a train or letting it lug,which the Hemi doesn't like. It has a K&N filter and I plan to fit a Magnaflow catback in the Spring and headers later in the year.
    A friend told me if I have lower final drive crown and pinions fitted I would get an easier drive and better economy. The dealer has quoted $4000 for this to be done.

    Any thoughts on this?

    Denimo

    PS Does any one know if a one/eighteen scale model of the D is available?
  • Have the same problem with my 99 Durango with 80K.Every mrchanic tells me it needs a tune up. After many tune up I just brought it to a dealer. They tuned it up again. Plug #7 always seems to be fouled. Had several compression checks done and all ok. Came back from the dealer also with no heat. Now the dealer replaced the thermostatand backed flushed the heater core. Did get a little more heat. Now they want to replace the heater core. It's been 500 miles since their tuneup and the check engine light has come on again and will bring it back this week
  • Our 2000 durango just started doing this today. We can't keep ours running, though, unless you constantly have your foot on the gas pedal to RPM's up. Otherwise, they just go down to nothing. Any luck yet in figuring it out?
  • You probably have a speed sensor bad. It is located
    directly centered on top of diff housing. No problem
    to change, had the same problem, i think it only took
    about

    15 mins. to change. Best i remember about 35.00
    dollars give or take.

    ben
  • I think that 2000 model Durango has a mass (mass air flow
    sensor)in the air cleaner inlet side of air inlet system.
    Sure would give it a good looking at.As you probabely know it measures amount of air intering intake weight of air
    rate of air desisity of air among other things and replaces
    the map sensor used on earlyer models. hope this will help.
    ben
  • 434445434445 Posts: 1
    The A/C blows out of the rear unit and the front unit. It only blows cold out of the rear unit and warm out of the front. What do you like the problem would be?
  • I have recently purchased a 05 Dodge Durango Limited, w/ 5.7 L Hemi, and 14K miles. Beautiful vehicle, except one thing, it STALLS. It has done it to me 5 times on the way home from filling it up with gas, and namely between 10-20 mph.

    If my wife were to have been driving this on the highway it would be of a real SAFETY concern.

    There is definitely a problem with this vehicle and Chrysler is not owning up to it and is stating they believe the failure rate is low. I would suggest to this forum that we are but a small percentage of folks who have the wherewithal to actually write in to an online forum to describe the problem. Statistics would then show that with as much discussion as we are having about this, that the problem is MUCH larger, with many more folks experiencing this, but just not writing in to tell us about the “anomaly”.

    In fact I point you to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s ongoing investigation EA05-018, which can be found at NHTSA DEFECT SEARCH. Once on the page, use the case number EA05018 to search. Review for yourself, and you will find that there is an estimated 420,000 people who are experiencing this problem, with 17,328 complaints filed as of 11/02/05 regarding the same problem.

    A summary of the EA05018 NHTSA report:
    ON MAY 16, 2005, ODI OPENED PRELIMINARY EVALUATION PE05-027 TO INVESTIGATE COMPLAINTS OF ENGINE STALLING IN MODEL YEAR 2004-05 DODGE DURANGO SUVS AND RAM 1500 SERIES PICKUPS EQUIPPED WITH THE 5.7L V8 ENGINE. INFORMATION PROVIDED BY DAIMLERCHRYSLER DURING PE05-027 INDICATED THAT A LARGE PERCENTAGE OF THE COMPLAINTS ARE RELATED TO AN IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION THAT MAY CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL DURING TURNING MANEUVERS. IN FEBRUARY 2005, DAIMLERCHRYSLER REVISED THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE SOFTWARE IN PRODUCTION VEHICLES AND ISSUED A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN (TSB 18-013-05) RELEASING THE NEW SOFTWARE AS A SERVICE REMEDY FOR THE IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION. THE BULLETIN WAS SUPERCEDED BY TSB 18-013-05A IN APRIL 2005. DAIMLERCHRYSLER BELIEVES THAT THE FAILURE RATE FOR STALLING WHILE DRIVING DUE TO THE IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION IS LOW AND THAT THE BULLETIN HAS ADEQUATELY ADDRESSED THE PROBLEM. SINCE PE05-027 WAS OPENED, ODI HAS CONTINUED TO RECEIVE COMPLAINTS FROM OWNERS OF THE SUBJECT VEHICLES WHO ALLEGE EXPERIENCING ENGINE STALL INCIDENTS UNDER ALL TYPES OF DRIVING CONDITIONS. IN SOME INSTANCES THE STALLING HAS CONTINUED AFTER THE VEHICLE RECEIVED THE SERVICE BULLETIN REPAIRS. THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN UPGRADED TO AN ENGINEERING ANALYSIS (EA05-018) TO FURTHER ASSESS THE SCOPE, FREQUENCY, AND SAFETY CONSEQUENCES OF THE ALLEGED DEFECT IN DODGE DURANGO AND RAM 1500/2500/3500 SERIES PICKUP TRUCKS.
  • mtonemtone Posts: 1
    Engine light went on and truck would not start. Gas cap was not properly closed (it had been loose for a couple of days). Once we "fixed" that problem, it took a few minutes and the truck re-started. Although the truck now starts without any hesitation, engine light remains on(I've been told that the the cap being loose may be the culprit and that it set off a sensor)...any ideas?
    thxs.
  • Exactly the same, replaced o2 sensors, then informed PCM module needed replacing, but found out this was not the problem, dealer talked with Dodge tech support & now they tell me the wiring harness needs replacing. Due to the power steering sensor leeking oil on the harness. I can not believe oil on a covered wire would create a short. Repair est. 1900.00, I will seek other means of repair.
  • pas379pas379 Posts: 3
    previous posting #47.... took the Durango back to the dealer. they now said it could be a cracked head.Had them pull the head and "YES" the head was cracked.
    saw it myself. hopefully this will fix the problem.....at a cost of $1400.00! For some reason the heater seems to be working better now also.
  • ABS & Brake light caused by a ABS wheel sensor. I drove a '99 D for almost a year like this without any problem - ABS never worked on the D anyway. The speedometer problem (I'm told) is a vacuum problem on my truck caused by a leaking head gasket and I can't recall if the O2 sensor is also responsible, but I know its also getting replaced. I have been going through 2 quarts of oil between oil changes since this problem surfaced. My speedometer won't operate until the D reaches 20 MPH. Before this problem surfaced my D was doing really loud engine noise at start 0-20MPH (perhaps higher engine revs) until I reached 20 MPH when it would quiet down to normal engine noise. During this time my transmission would downshift when I made left hand turns at ANY speed. Then one day, the transmission quit down shifting at left hand turns, the engine noise at start went away and it ran normal for 6 months, but then the noise returned. Dealer head gasket repair $1,200 & ABS sensor $300 approx.
  • I need instructions on how to re-program the keyless remote(FOB), for a 2003 Durango SXT (SPORT). I lost my manual during a move, and am trying to avoid the dealer's $40 charge for re-programming. Can anyone help?

    Thanks,
  • halilhalil Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Dodge Durango.. Summer time in Florida it was overheating and cutting the power of the engine, after the engine cools of. you can start again, for this problem
    Mechanic changed the Gasket set, water pump. Took of the radiator and cleaned the radiator holes. Changed the spark plugs. But I am not sure if this fixed the problem? Because 1 month later I got my car from mechanic shop and the weather was colder because of weather was colder I did not see overheating. But I still have engine power cut of problem and I am thinking when the car was overheating it my damaged to some sensors and mechanic can not figure out the problem,
    Now when you drive the car about 15 miles it stops while you are driving. engine lights comes on.
    After finely if I can pull the car to save side of the road before have a crush I stop. and try to start the car but there is no power goes to starter, I can have head lights and parking lights on everything is on ok.
    But no power for starter and spark plucks, but if you wait 10 -15 minutes I can start the car again,
    So after the mechanic changed all those parts I thing still doing overheating but can not tell because the weather is colder now.
    And I thin when it was overheating summer time before all those parts chanced I thing overheating damaged some of the censors.
    But I do not know what censors that could be. It cuts of the power only from starter and comes back on after it cools down and I know there is no problem with starter and the battery or any fuse. and there is no problem with the fan
    If anybody can help me with this problem I will be very thankful
  • I am having the same problem that just started. I am gonna change the fan clutch just a guess though. if you have found the answer plewase forward that you tom
  • ka9nynka9nyn Posts: 1
    Here is the info for a 2001 durango. Should be the same.




    2001 Dodge Truck Durango 4WD V8-5.9L VIN Z LDC

    Top - Vehicle
    Accessories and Optional Equipment
    . Keyless Entry
    . . Technical Service Bulletins
    . . . Keyless Entry - Programming Procedure

    .



    Notes

    Keyless Entry - Programming Procedure

    NUMBER: 08-007-02

    GROUP: Electrical

    DATE: Mar. 25, 2002

    SUBJECT:
    Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures

    MODELS:

    1999 - 2002 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon

    1999 - 2002 (AN) Dakota

    1999 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup

    1999 - 2002 (DN) Durango

    2002 (DR) Ram Pickup

    2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan/Sebring Convertible

    2002 (KJ) Liberty

    1999 - 2002 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M

    1999 - 2000 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

    1999 - 2002 (PL) Neon

    1999 - 2002 (PR) Prowler

    2001 - 2002 (PT) PT Cruiser

    2001 - 2002 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

    1999 - 2002 (WJ) Grand Cherokee

    1999 - 2001 (XJ) Cherokee

    DISCUSSION:




    A Remote keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures Card (Publication No. 81-170-00011) is being provided with this Technical Service Bulletin to simplify RKE transmitter programming on 1999 - 2002 North American vehicles. Additional copies of the RKE publication, 81-170-00011 (Fig. 1), can be ordered from DDS Distribution Services, LTD. Their number is 1-800-890-4038.

    NOTE :THE RECENTLY RELEASED MILLER SPECIAL TOOL, "RF DETECTOR NO. 9001", SHOULD BE USED TO DETERMINE IF THE TRANSMITTER IS WORKING BEFORE BEGINNING PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. THE RF DETECTOR INDICATES IF THE TRANSMITTER IS WORKING, NOT IF IT IS PROGRAMMED TO A VEHICLE.

    DaimlerChrysler North American Remote Keyless Entry Programming Procedures

    NOTE :PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS FULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO PROGRAM TRANSMITTERS.

    Program Method A (Customer Program Method)

    1. Press (LOCK) button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to run position. (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Using any original (working) transmitter, press the [UNLOCK] button for 4 to 10 seconds.

    4. Within the specified 4 to 10 seconds, continue pressing the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button for 1 second and release both buttons (AN/DN release either button first). A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

    5. Press [LOCK] and [UNLOCK] buttons simultaneously for 1 second and release (a short chime will sound for AN/DN).

    6. Press and release any button on the same transmitter and a chime will sound after successfully programming the transmitter (locks will cycle for AN/DN).

    NOTE :(FOR DR ONLY) A CHIME WILL NOT SOUND ON STEP # 6 FOR THE FIRST TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMED, BUT WILL SOUND UPON PROGRAMMING THE SECOND TRANSMITTER.

    7. Repeat steps 5 through 6 to program additional transmitters.

    8. Turn ignition to OFF position. Transmitter programming mode v/ill discontinue after 60 seconds (30 seconds for AN/DN and RS). (All transmitter programming must be completed within time specified).


    Program Method B (Customer Program Method)

    1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Using original transmitter, press and hold the [UNLOCK] button on the transmitter for between 4 and 10 seconds.

    4. Continue to hold the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button. A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (Allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

    5. Press a button on all transmitters to be programmed into the system including any previously programmed transmitters; a chime will sound when each transmitter has been programmed.

    6. Turn the ignition to OFF position to exit the transmitter programming mode.


    Program Method C (Dealer Program Method) *Can be used for any type transmitter.

    1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Plug DRBIII to vehicle's 1-way data link connector.

    4. Follow Service Manual and DRBIII instructions to program transmitters.


    Program Method D (For use with AB vehicles not equipped with VTSS only)

    1. Locate the dark green program enable wire connected to pin # 1 of the 16-way data link connector under the left side of the instrument panel.

    2. Connect the program enable wire terminal to a good ground.

    3. Insert the key into the ignition and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The power locks will cycle (Lock and Unlock) indicating that program mode has been entered.

    4. Using the transmitter to be programmed, press either [LOCK] or [UNLOCK]. The power locks will cycle indicating the transmitter has been programmed successfully.

    5. Repeat step 4 to program additional transmitter.

    6. Disconnect the program enable wire from ground to exit program mode.

    7. Turn the ignition to the OFF position and remove the key.

    NOTE :REFER TO DAIMLERCHRYSLER MDS2 SYSTEM OR PARTS DEPARTMENT TO OBTAIN THE CORRECT PART NUMBER AND REVISION FOR SPECIFIED VEHICLE.

    POLICY:
    Information Only
    Copyright © 2006 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • the same happened just days after I bought my 2003 durango. As silly as this may sound...more than likely it is the handle of your oil dipstick. the techs at the service center were baffled as to what was causing the noise...and finally came up with that solution. the handle of the stick is vibrating on the underside of the hood and wind---from the acceleration (beginning probably around 45-50 mph--getting worse with more speed) is causing the very loud and annoying whistle. try bending the handle of your dipstick down/off to the side. That may be your cure.
  • mviteomviteo Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with hesitation and would like to change the fuel filter,but,Dodge has made them unservicable.There is not one to be found anywhere on the vehicle,so I am assuming that it is in the fuel tank itself.My question is,has anyone tried to change one or found a way to remove it from the tank and replace it in line under the vehicle or under the hood?Thx.
  • tonyaktonyak Posts: 1
    It's the rear speed sensor. My mechanic charged me $45 to replace. Have also replaced the speed sensor in transmission. Now having problems with sludge under oil cap.
  • Own a 2003 Dodge R/T with 52,000 miles. It seems to shift hard between 10 and 15 mph as I let off the gas in parking lots. I also get the same problem when I am on the freeway, as I back off the gas around 45-50 mph. It only "clunks" hard when letting off the gas. It started having problems around 30,000 took it in and they keep telling me it's normal? I owned a 2000 Durango SLT and never had this happen and put 73,000 miles on it before I traded it in for the R/T. They finally worked on it and said it was the torque converter, two weeks later it is getting worse. Dose any body have any idea what this might be before I go back in to have a go around with the dealer. I do have full bumper to bumper, but it runs out at 70,000. Thanks
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