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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • tietz99tietz99 Posts: 2
    The AC in my 2002 Dodge Durango SLT Plus only works at the highest speed. From the posts I see pretty clearly that it is the blower motor resistor that is most likely the cause. The posts say that there are two screws located just to the left of the blower fan. For the life of me I can not find these screws. Any diagrams out there to assist me in locating this. ...Seems like a pretty easy and cheap repair once I'm able to find where the heck the part is.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Sounds like you are towing sometimes? You might need a transmission oil cooler if you don't have one on the optional towing package.

    Overheating can be a very tricky thing to diagnose. Since you are losing coolant, I'd have a pressure test done on the cooling system, and I'd extract a few spark plugs while the system is under pressure, just to check for the outside chance of a head gasket leak (you'll see coolant on the plug tips).


  • moosymaemoosymae Posts: 1
    about 2 maybe 3 weeks ago i was driving and when i went to back in to a place i put it in gear and as soon as my foot came off the break the rig shut off on its own..i had to put it back in park and re start it and everything was did this a couple of times but our battery really needed replaced so we thought it was that..we replaced the battery and everything was going well until yeasterday..i tried 4 different times in a row to move the rig after starting it and putting it in reverse it shut off everytime...then the fifth time trying to start it it wouldn't even turn over or make any kind of sound...i let it sit for an hour or two and tried it again and eveyting was just fine it was like nothing ever happened.... :confuse:
  • draw32draw32 Posts: 1
    is there a recet switch for fuelpump on 88 durango
  • Hi,

    I have searched this forum for this problem and see others have encountered he same issue. However I didnt see what the solution to this was.

    I put in a new battery and the cargo lamp and tire pressure light came on. Called my Dodge dealer and they wanted to charge me what seemed like a very high cost to diagnose the problem. Obviously my cargo light and tire pressure is good since I've checked them both and found this problem to be common

    Any help would be appreciated and my wife says thank you in advance.
  • rchiirchii Posts: 7
    edited August 2010

    I would like to thank all of you for your assistance with our 2000 Durango during the time we had it. Without your expertise and real world experience with these vehicles, I would have had a hard time diagnosing ours. We have sold ours and have moved cross country to New Mexico (much different than Virginia). Now I have to start working on my Ram truck, it is getting terrible gas mileage here. I suspect it is the altitude change. We are now at about 5300 feet as apposed to the 1200 feet we were at in Virginia. Guess it is time to sell my factory Durango manual set and get the Ram set. Hey!, anybody need a full set of factory manuals for the 2000 Durango?

    Again, thank you all for your help.

  • I could use your Durango manuals!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,971
    Please take it to email - we don't buy and sell on the forums. You can mark your email public in your Profile. Thanks.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • laspianlaspian Posts: 2
    It's hard to describe but my '00 Durango lurches when driving and stopping. Even traveling at a constant speed, it lurches as if it's not sure what gear to be in. Same with slowin down - it sometimes makes a thud and jumps forward a bit. Any ideas?
  • Ok so I have a 98 durango that I need some help with I was driving down the road when it shut off once it shut off I tried to crank it again but it would not start nor would it jump off so I towed it home took the battery and the alternator to have it tested and the battery was bad alternator was good bought a new batery but still would not crank tested the distributor to see if it was getting fire and everything there was good so I'm kinda stuck on what it could be my next guess would be the fuel pump if so how long and how hard would you so it is to replace one???
  • kymankyman Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Durango SLT 4.7l that has just started running hot. It doesn't run hot when driving, only when sitting at idle with the transmission in drive. If I'm in stop and go traffic, it only takes a couple of minutes for the temp gauge to spike. But, I can drive it for an hour then come home and park it in my driveway and let it idle for 10 min with the trans in Park and it won't get hot. Does anyone know what could be going on?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Assuming the coolant is topped up and there's no serious leaks:
    1. The clutch on the fan is bad and the fan is not running at the right speed
    2. The radiator is clogged with corrosion and the coolant flow is restricted
    3. The water pump impeller is worn and not circulating the coolant

    When your not in stop and go traffic there's usually enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool with out the fan running fast. My gut feeling would be to look towards #1 first, based on your description. There's also an electric fan but it runs when the A/C is on to assist in cooling the condenser in front of the radiator.
  • Same here! ALOT of people having this problem. This should be a recall but dodge does not honor their work so here is the solution to your problem. You need to replace your ecm computer and your idle air control motor and valve. If you only replace the computer in about 2 years it will fry out again giving you this problem that you have now. Trust me. Spent way to much time and money on my wife's 2000 durango! This is the only cure to this problem. Don't go and blow your hard earned money on the dodge dealer they don't care about people like you and me. Take care.
  • rods3rods3 Posts: 1
    baffled! fuel pressure at 60 psi, no leak down, all 4 O2 sensor new, egr new, all new plugs, wires, B&G cleaner for intake, injectors, fuel system. starts great cold. runs fine while driving. no codes! any suggestions?
  • my truck was doing the same thing..started great cold but when hot it would turn over but not fire til 15 or longers minutes than would start. we took it to advance cause we had no codes, they put the little machine on it and it said my camshaft sensor was bad, we bought it for $18 and put it on and so far no problems...been about 3 weeks now.
  • I have a 2002 Durango SLT and my blower motor resistor wiring harness connector just burned up. The Dealer wants $700 to fix it. I went to area junk yards to see if I could find and replace the part myself. I saw many Durangos with the connector and resistor already cut out. The staff all advised that they are a hot item that they can't keep in stock. Their view is that this frequent problem is the result of a design flaw that should have been the subject of a recall. They also suggested I try Ebay. Has Dodge taken a position on this problem? I would appreciate any other advice available.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    edited November 2010
    I finally changed the heater core in my 2000 Durango over the weekend. No big surprises, but the instructions I downloaded off the internet that were supposed to be right out of the factory manual were useless and ended up in the trash right away.
    I found it was easier to take the front seats out. For the 15-20 minutes it took it was worth it. The steering column didn't need to come out, just dropped to the floor. I wish I had removed to console also (bucket seats) since the center support for the dash has a bracket that gets in the way when trying to set the dash back in. It would have been easier to remove it but the console would have to come out to do it.
    There's lots of connections to de mate. The lower nut that holds the plenum assembly is very difficult to get to, I removed the right front wheel and the wheel well plastic liner to get to it. It's right behind the right head (the transmission dipstick tube is also there) but it can be done. The expansion valve connected to the evaporator core needs to be removed before the plenum since it has a bracket attached that won't go through the firewall hole.
    The new core was an aftermarket and is slightly different in shape. The tabs down in the bottom of the plenum housing had to be modified. The instructions said to remove them, but I used a Dremel tool and modified them just enough to get it to fit. I was concerned it would rattle around otherwise.
    Since it's necessary to discharge the A/C I also replaced the evaporator core ( I was advised it's a good idea) but the old one was just like new. New receiver/drier also, but that's typical when opening up an A/C system anyway.
    No trouble reconnecting the A/C parts (use new seals and o-rings) and pumping it down. I haven't been able to fully charge it yet since I ran out of time and it really isn't warm enough out to do it right anyway.
    The hardest thing was getting the two support bars under the steering column back in. They look like they're an afterthought anyway. Those instructions I downloaded didn't say anything about them.........
    This isn't a job for the faint of heart. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't have the tools and experience of having done it to other cars before. Overall it took me about 10-11 hours total.
  • bigh29bigh29 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    First, I want to thank all of the people that have contributed to this thread. My 2000 durango (4.7 L) began suffering from the same problem in mid October: p0171, black soot coming out of the exhaust, horrible mileage, and dirty smelling exhaust. I was able to fix the problem on my own using this thread, and a few others I found on the internet.

    Here is a summary of my repairs, and some pictures I took at the end. My fix is very similar to the one that ncdodgeowner did.

    Oxygen sensor wiring and description of the problem:The pre-cat OEM O2 sensor from Mopar has four wires: Heater+ (black), Heater/Chassis Ground (black), Signal+ (blue), and Signal ground (white). These wires comprise two distinct circuits: the heater circuit and the sensor circuit.

    The colors on the truck side are: Heater+ (Orange/Dark Green stripe), Heater Ground (solid black), Signal+ (Light Green/Red stripe), Signal Ground (Black/Blue stripe). Note that the signal+ color is different for other engine sizes (Tan/white for the 5.2L and 5.9L engines).

    The power steering switch shares a common splice with the heater ground on the O2 sensor. This is the source of fluid contamination at the O2 sensor. However, the heater circuit is not impacted. PS fluid is not a great conductor. The heater circuit is low impedance already. PS fluid has too much resistance to prevent the heater from working. My repair strategy relies on this.

    The sensor part of the circuit has a much higher impedance. The sensor works by producing a voltage between 0.1 V (lean) and 0.9 V (rich). However, this voltage isn't very strong, and must be terminated with a high impedance load: such as a digital voltmeter or the high impedance input into the PCM. According to a few articles I found, a load of 10k to 100k ohms would be enough to load down an O2 sensor. Although PS fluid isn't a great conductor, it has a low enough resistance to intefere with this high impedance circuit.

    My fixes: I decided on a course of action that I was capable of implementing, and that was likely to prevent the problem from happening again. I couldn't raise the front of my durango up very high, so I wanted to minimize my work from underneath. I also incorporated what I though were the best ideas from the various solutions. Here is a summary of my strategy :
    Replace power steering switch. Click here to see picture
    Clean up wiring harness with electrical cleaner as best I could.
    Cut and resolder PS switch wires. I decided that I wanted a solder splice blocking a future PS switch failure and fluid leak. So I cut the PS wires and respliced with the heat shrink butt connector. I could have tried this approach at the oxygen sensor, but it was easier to do this up top under the hood.
    Install new Mopar OEM O2 sensor (PN 56028233AA). Cut the two signal wires (blue and white) and run them up to the PCM in a separate wiring harness.
    Leave the two black heater wires on the new sensor intact. Connect to the existing connector on the truck to complete the heater circuit.

    I purchased these materials: 10 ft of black corrugated harness tubing
    18 gauge wire (needed 12 ft total, bought 40 ft). Recommend buying two different colors.
    18 gauge sealed connectors (red). Click here to see picture
    18 gauge, heat shrink butt connectors with solder ring inside. Click here to see picture
    friction tape.
    various gauges of heat shrink tubing.
    heat gun (didn't already have one, this was $59)
    I already owned everything else that I needed.

    Here are the steps I followed to re-route the signal wires:
    Install new O2 sensor.
    Prepared signal harness by cutting 6' of corrugated tubing, and fed through two 18 gauge wires. I marked one wire to identify it. I should have just bought two different colors of wire.
    From below the truck, I snaked my fish tape up to the top, following the transmission dipstick. From above, I taped my new harness to the fish tape, and then pulled the tape back through.
    I cut the blue and white wires on the new O2 sensor close to the connector. I crimped on the red connectors and tried to seal them up with heat shrink tubing.
    Crimped mating connectors to the wires in my harness and connected them.
    Re-connected the gray sensor connector to the mating truck connector. That connector will continue to close the heater circuit.
    Up top, I snaked my harness behing the jumbo wiring harness and attached with a zip tie.
    Sliced open the cloth wrapping around the harness and located two light green/red wires. One is for the oxygen sensor, and the other is for the transmission.
    Picked one wire via coin flip, and shaved a little insulation off it.
    Disconnected the C1 connector on the PCM. The PCM has three big harnesses coming into it. C1 is the rearmost, black, connector.
    Pin 24 on the C1 connector connects to the wire that we want. I measured continuity between pin 24 and the wire that I shaved. As luck would have it, I guessed wrong. So I taped up that wire and repeated with the other light green/red wire.
    Once I had the O2 sensor wire identified, I cut it. I soldered the correct wire from my new harness to the cut wire that heads to the PCM, and sealed it up with heat shrink tubing. The other cut end is left open. I tucked it up into the harness.
    Inside the jumbo harness are several black wires with a light blue stripe. These all connect to signal ground, so I a convenient picked one. I shaved a little insulation off, and soldered the sensor ground wire from my harness to it. Note that you cant cut this wire. Whatever is downstream needs to still be connected. I taped up this 3 way splice with electrical tape.
    I taped up the jumbo harness with friction tape, and secured my new harness.
    Reconnected the C1 connector to the PCM.

    I wish I would have taken some pictures during my repairs. But in reality, nothing went as smoothly as my list makes it appear. I did a number of things wrong. I have attached pics of the final outcome.
    PCM and harness view
    View of splice at O2 sensor connector. Not a great pic.

    PS: If you tap into the wrong light green/red wire, your truck will function. But the shift indicator for the transmission will behave goofy (all gears will illuminate in park and neutral), and your check engine light will come on with P0132 exactly 4 minutes after starting the vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    I'm getting an error code P0141 which is a heater problem on #2 O2 sensor on bank 1. I'm assuming this is the drivers side, sensor after the catalyst. Am I correct? 2000 SLT 4.7L.
  • I also have a 2004 Dodge Durango that makes a Humming sound after turning the ignition off. The sound seems to come from the exhaust system just in front of the transmission and lasts from 8 to12 seconds. 5.7Lhemi w/164,000 miles. Any ideas ?? Exaust gasket, cat converter, erg system?? Exhaust flow seems strong, no engine lights, runs cool, good fuel mileage, norm eng temp.
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