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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

1568101128

Comments

  • Try the camshaft position sensor. It failed on ours three times and the symptoms were same as yours, failure ot start or stalling and unable to restart.
  • Hi. My 2004 is doing the same thing. Weird to see the dash lights and locks go wild when I open the door. The battery died today and attempting to start only brings severe clicking noise from the engine bay.

    Did you get a solution?
  • kac0kac0 Posts: 1
    I was driving yesterday and my ABS and brake dash lights came on. The brakes seemed fine and all so I kept going. Then, my speedometer went to zero and hardly ever registers now, only when I am going 50-60. I found a few posts that said to replace the speed sensor. I went to advance auto parts and the only sensor that they had was on the tranny. I replaced that one and the problem is still around. Do I have to replace the sensor on top of the diff? Is that a speed sensor? If it is the one, do I have to get it form the dealer? Thanks for any help!
  • Hi. My 2004 dash lights and locks go wild when I open the door. The battery died today and attempting to start only brings severe clicking noise from the engine bay.

    Did you get a solution?
  • Replaced battery last week. Would not start this morning. Adjusted ignition cables (which always seem loose) jumped off, drove around block, pulled in driveway and it stalled. It will restart but will not stay on.
    Other recent problem that husband fears may be some of the cause...radio and CD player will not work..not lights, nothing. Had the fuse checked....not blown...worked about an hour after the fuses had been checked. Now nothing.
    Please help. I dread having to bring it to dealership.
  • screwed2screwed2 Posts: 4
    I hope someone out there can give me the answer to this one. About 2 weeks ago, while driving my durango, the check engine light came on and the strained to go as you stepped on the gas pedal. Brought it into the mechanic who diagnosed that the problem was with the computer. The computer was replaced (very expensive) the next day I started out on a trip to Maryland from upstate NY. I got about 50 miles from home when the check engine light again came on and the suv was again struggling to move as I stepped on the gas pedal. I also noticed that the battery light had gone down to almost the as low as it can go and the RPM's on the vehicle were sitting at 3500. I managed to get the truck home and back to the mechanic. He placed another computer into the vehicle, drove around a bit and the computer blew. A third computer was put in and again it blew. It has now been two weeks and I have had the vechile in my possession for a half a day in those 2 weeks. I am not looking forward to the bill either. Has anyone had this happen and what is the answer?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • scotsboyscotsboy Posts: 2
    I had a problem with the battery discharging in mine, seemed to be that the fan was not cutting out after the engine was shut off. Traced it back to a bad fan relay. A few $ to replace, and has been fine since. Have you noticed if the fan in yours staying on for a long time?
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    For all you 2000 durango owners with a bad o2 sensor caused by the power steering switch leaking fluid into the wiring harness through the ground wire. I finally got mine corrected.I caslled Bosh and asked what wire was the ground. They said it was the "White" wire coming from the o2. You need to match what pin that relates to at the connection from the harness. Cut that wire and run a wire from where you cut it at the connection, not the harness. Connect the other end of the wire next to the air filter on the finder well. You will see three other connections on the fender well. Just loosen the net and connect your wire there. Clear you code. You may have to do it again after driving for a while. The second time the code will stay off.
    The dealership DOES sell a bypass wire for this purpose. THe part number is 56045483AC and cost $66.00 as of now. I just found this out after re-splicing the wires myself.
    Hope this info will help.
  • windkistwindkist Posts: 4
    Our 99 Durango has been stalling. Yesterday 3 times on the way home from work in 100 degree heat. We have replaced the crank sensor but, so many have said its the ECM. Is it the ECM or the PCM? whats the difference and where is the PCM located? Has anyone had any luck in figuring out this mess?

    Leah :mad:
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I have not had the problem, but I do want to avoid it. Which O2 sensor is it and which harness are you cutting?

    Thanks
  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    After it sat for a week I came to it Dead. Jumped it off and now the keyless entry, door locks, intermittent part of wipers, rear wiper, all do not work. The windows and seats and radio still work. Even the high/low on front wipers work. Anyone have any clues? Please help me as I cant afford dealership prices. Thanks in advance
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    The wiper delay and the door locks are all common to the Central Timer Module (CTM). Assuming that there was not a short that caused the battery to die,(possible if it died after only a week) you most likely blew a fuse or a relay when you jumped it. Check the door lock relay (If there is another relay on the J Block that is the same, swap them and see if the symptoms change) and all fuses associated with door locks and wipers. If there is a blown fuse and it cocntinues to blow, there is a short in that system. Diagnosing it is fairly simple and if you are averse to dealers, any competent garage mechanic can track it down.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    It's the front o2 sensor. I cut the ground wire on the connector that connects to the o2. Next to the tranny, you will see four wires that go to the connector. Look at the white wire on the o2 and see what color wire it connects to on the harness connector. That is the wire.Cut is and run a new ground as explained in my previous note.
    You can check your power steering switch every so often to make sure it's not leaking. That is what causes the problem.
    If you see fluid in the steering connection, you will need to change that also.
  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I will check that out this afternoon. Will update with findings.
  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    Well after further inspection and troubleshooting I have not found any blown fuses or relays that are bad. What else do you think might be the problem? If CTM then about how much is that?

    Thanks
  • I just want to thank you for this info. I have a 2000 Dakota 4.7 code 171 i have been fighting with for 6 months now have replace 02 3 times and was told by chrysler to have injectors cleaned, replace pcv, replace timing chains and guides still no help. Each time I took it to garage I even asked why when 02 was removed there was oil inside connector and why did 02 smoke but they could not answer this.
    I have just replaced my ps switch yesterday which also had oil in connector never did get ps fault code. Just wanted to be sure all I need to replace is just the ground wire on the o2 correct?
    I just wandered how many of you guys with this prob have Ca emissions on your trucks mine is and wiring is slightly different from federal. Thank you give this man a gold star
  • amd5amd5 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 durango, small V-8. Recently it has began to make a noise that sounds like a whistle. The whistle starts off at a low pitch then gets higher. It only lasts for about 4 or 5 seconds. It sounds like it may be coming from the rear of the truck, but I cannot be sure. The A/C can be on or off. Usually I am traveling over 20 miles per hour. I know this sounds weird but it is driving me crazy. The dealership cannot locate the problem. I have had the power steering pump replaced. The water pump has been inspected. Can someone offer some assistance. Thank You.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    The only wire i changed was the ground. I did use electrical contact cleaner to clean both connectors off about four or five times. After you spray them, just let them hang and dry out. Good luck
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I don't have a lot of info on the CTM. I know that there are 2 versions (base and high line) depending on the equipment installed on the vehicle. This module also controls the headlight chimes, the "key-in-ignition" chimes, the seat belt reminder, and various other items. Check to see if those are working. If they are, it is most likely not the CTM that failed (but I have seen some strange things). Just out of curiousity, you did check the fuses and relays in the engine bay also, correct? I'll go take a look at mine and see if I can nail down what else may be the problem.
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I'm afraid I don't have much more info. In order to properly diagnose the CTM, you should use a diagnostic scan tool. I do know that it is under the dash beside the glove box but before you replace it, I would want to be sure that all the fuses & relays are good. Most of the relays in the J Box under the hood are the same and are interchangeable. You may also want to take out the glove box and ensure that there is power to the CTM. Barring that, I don't have much more info without getting to a schematic.
  • :cry: My Durango has a hard time starting when it sets for awhile, or sets overnight. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced a faulty fuel pump, but still has a hard time starting. They say that it is carbon built up on valves and pistons. I think not but I have no clue. Can someone clue me in!!! :cry:
  • jjcroce3jjcroce3 Posts: 3
    Well, Mine has been in the shop since the june. the first few weeks of june. This is crazy. It is in the 4th shop now. i have replaced crank position sensor. battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump relay and then finally took it to the dealer. they said that it was the air intake manifold gasket without barely looking at it. they wanted $1300.00 to fix that. Funny non of the other shops have mentioned that. I even had an uncle who was a big exec. for Chrysler call Dodge and ask a few questions and they said it would have run terrible if that was it. Now it is the computer or PCM on some model years, ECM on others. they are the same. So I took it somewhere else to get fixed. I got a remanufactured ECM ordered and it was only $250.00 not the $600.00 the dealer wanted for [part and $400 they wanted to install it. It is on the way and my Mechanic will install for $35.00 and take it to Dodge and have it programmed for $100.00. I just want my car back. Keep me posted what you find and I will tell you if this works.
  • Depending on how old your durango is, its a covered part under the 7 year 70,000 mile warranty, Mine did that and it was the computer!! The CPM and then they couldn't get that started so found out my crank positon sensor was bad, Ball Joints had a recall on them and they replaced those for free while they were in there. Hadn't had any more problems since that, with the exception my battery died two days after i got it home. HOpe that helps you out.
  • pinkumspinkums Posts: 2
    try checking the fusible link on the right side of the battery cable. it is a long round cylindrical shape, usually black in color, that leads to the brain or computer,it is hard to tell if that is bad,but just wiggle it after the truck dies,and it should start back up. if so then all you need to do is change it. hope that helps.
  • barb1954barb1954 Posts: 1
    Vehicle RPM revs to 2200 RPM on start-up then fluctuates between 500 RPM and 2000 RPM for 2 - 3 minutes before reducing but still fluctuates from 700 RPM to 1100 RPM. Does this whether warm or cold. Hope someone can help.
  • vantiquesvantiques Posts: 1
    I have the same noise and have narrowed it down to the A/C. Mine has done that for two years...but only in the summer and when I turn on the A/C. Well......about two days ago (in 115 degrees) my front A/C quit blowing. Back A/C is fine and very cold. BUT....the faster I drive the more the front A/C blows. So, when I stop at a stop sign there is NO air flowing! and as I accelerate then the a/c starts coming out. I had a friend look at it and the blower will not blow (under the dash by the passengers feet) He took the blower out and connected it to something and it blows.
    Then he tested the current and it had 12V going in and coming out. ANYWAY I know this didn't help but i understand the noise that you are talking about. I would like to know what it is also.

    thanks,
    vantiques
  • pyrate951pyrate951 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong. Mine is doing the same thing.
  • kbdc8297kbdc8297 Posts: 6
    my '04 durango also has the buffeting noise when either or both of the rear windows are open even if it is just partially opened. i just dont open the windows. i have never questioned the dealership.
  • kbdc8297kbdc8297 Posts: 6
    my '04 durango limited hemi does the same thing.i just dont roll down the windows.
  • carlincarlin Posts: 1
    Our 99 5.2 Durango is having a serious cooling problem.

    It does not have a cracked block, blown headgasket or warped heads.

    We have Replaced/Done the following.

    Thermostat: Replaced Twice
    Radiator Flush: Done 4 times
    Cooling system Backflush: Done 3 times
    Water Pump: Replaced
    Fan Clutch: Replaced

    Symptoms; we cannot drive it further than about 10 miles without it nearly hitting 260 deg, now either we've gotten 2 faulty thermostats from 2 seperate manufacturer's or thier is something we are overlooking.

    Any Ideas?
1568101128
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