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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • zaxmomzaxmom Posts: 2
    Saturday my two children and I were on our way to shop for pageant dresses when less than a quarter of a mile from my destination I went from 70mph to 0 with guages all dropping to 0. I fortunately had got into the right lane knowing my exit was coming up and was able to make it to the side of the road safely. We sat in 93 degree weather waiting an hour for the tow truck. After speaking with the tow truck driver He stated it sounded like an electrical problem and towed me close to home at a dealer. It as I type is still sitting there, I have no other vehicle, and they may not even be able to look at it until tomorrow. Please help any suggestions? I read about the PCM is that it? I appreciate any help or suggestions!!!!!!! Thank you! :confuse:
  • howardc44howardc44 Posts: 8
    99 durango also. Had the same problem. Would start but not stay running. IAC Valve and the TPS Sensor. So far has fixed the problem. About $88.00 worth. Does not always show up in a diagnostic. More power and better idleing.

    Cindy :shades:
  • upsetmom3upsetmom3 Posts: 2
    a very similar thing happened to me this weekend. After a very long day at the waterpark in 103 tempetures, my family could not get our 1999 dodge durango(89,000miles) started in the parking lot. After 30 minutes of frustration it finally started only to die again 3 miles down the road.We were left fearing our saftey because we were not all the way on the shoulder and the hazard lights would not work. Seeing as how we were on a desert road in hundred degree tempeures we had little options. We waited 2 hours for a tow truck to find us.The truck sat in the driveway for 2 days and started no problem this morning, but as my husband was driving on the freeway to his work at a body shop it stalled again!!!!!The abs light goes on, my low fuel warning light,oil gauge as well as many others lights. somebody please help. :cry: 3 kids and without a car!!!!
  • upsetmom3upsetmom3 Posts: 2
    PLEASE HELP! Durango acting up/stalling out and not starting. Hazard lights and other electrical on the fritz. Bodyshop scratching their head and blowing smoke up my tailpipe!3 kids and no car please help :sick: :mad:
  • howardc44howardc44 Posts: 8
    Try having someone check the IAC Valve, TPS Sensor. Also could be your computer needing a kick in the butt. I just installed these parts on my 99 Durango and it works like a charm (knock on wood). Also changed my spark plugs. Disconnecting the battery will also clear the computer. If the problem reappears it is probly a sensor. Good luck.

    Cindy :shades:
  • jugheadjughead Posts: 1
    Same issue with my '99 Durango. Typically when it stalls, it takes 5-30 minutes to get a restart. I figured out through various posts that it is the PCM. Mine has a problem in high ambient temps of staying cool and overheats. I pour ice-water on the PCM and viola - starts right up like nothing happened. This usually lasts for less than 5 minutes in city driving (stop & go) but can last for 100's of miles at 70 mph. What a pain it is though!! :mad:
  • gerowz11gerowz11 Posts: 1
    i have an 03 durango and the check engine light came on so i had a diagnostic test done and the code p0440 came up and i was hoping someone could tell me what exactly i need to fix or what to look for to find the exact problem
  • cbr1cbr1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Durango which after reading some of the problems with stalling feel very fortunate that I do not have that issue. I am having problems with a clunking noise in the rear end when I travel rough roads or go over speed bumps. I have taken it to the dealership and they initially thought it was the spare tire moving up and down that was causing the noise However, the noise remains after tightening the spare tire in the carrier. Anyone have similar problems with this type of noise or other rattles etc Any help appreciated cbr1
  • chiefqmchiefqm Posts: 1
    My girlfriend has a 2002 Durango that has developed a rumbling noise from what sounds like the right front end of the vehicle, when stopped in traffic, foot on the brake in drive, with the air conditioning on. Noise goes away when the brake is released and the vehicle is moving again. Dealer diagnosed a bad electrical cooling (radiator) fan, which was replaced. Noise still there. Anybody have similar problems or know cure? 53000 miles, balljoints just replaced. Possibly a bad ABS mechanism?
  • joe1974joe1974 Posts: 1
    i have a problem i hope someone can tell me what's wrong.the truck is burning thru gas very quickly.and when it's first started there is black smoke from the muffler. someone had told me to try injection cleaner but that didn't work.
  • jw811jw811 Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 dodge durango with the 5.9 v8 engine. it has 77000 miles and has been running rough(mainly noticed while idling the engine RPM's would go up and down)it was overdue for a tune up so i had a tune up done and the mechanic advised me that the computer gave two codes and recommended additional work but that they could not perform the work. the codes are P1757(ZERO PRESSURE MALFUNCTION) and P01762 (GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR OFFSET). can anyone tell me what these two parts are and where they are located? and are they something that a do it yourself person can handle?jw811
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Do you have a 4.7L engine? Don't laugh - is your power steering switch leaking oil?

    I have the same problem and still looking for the answer to fix problem. The power steering pressure switch connector has failed and is pumping power steering fluid through your ground (black wire) wire - which is also coupled to your o2 sensors. Front sensor is shorted out - causing the computer to receive mixed signals. Tells the computer to go rich, dumping gas through extended opening of the injector. If you have been driving it for a while like this, step down on the gas in neutral or let it rev up. Take a look behind you and see the black cloud that you just created. Dealership stated to replace the wires involved within the wiring harness and reconnect them to the proper location. I am still in the process of doing this - unless anyone has a better idea!
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Is your Durango a 2000, with a 4.7L? Power steering switch fail?

    Did you resolve your problem?

    I have the same issues and still looking for the solution.

    Thanks in advance.
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Did you get your Durango fixed? I have the same problem.
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Yep, same problem but I don't have a fix yet. Did you get yours fixed?

    Check your power steering switch and see if it is leaking. If so, I am told that the power steering fluid is getting pumped into the wiring. The black wire from the pressure switch goes / shares the ground wire to the o2 sensor, and shorts it out. I have been battling this for some time.

    Dealership stated to create another wiring harness to the 4 wires that the 02 sensor. Still in the process of getting the right wires.

    Let me know what you found out.
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Check your power steering switch for leaks.
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    Identical problem and same statement by my dealer, except that I have a 2000 Durango.

    I went to Alldata and purchased the 'book' for $25. The ground wire for the power steering switch and o2 sensor are shared.

    Did you get yours fixed?
  • Please Help 1998 Dodge Durango IssuesI have a 1998 Dodge Durango that seems to be very touchy. When I start the car, it runs fine, then after about 3-5 minutes, the idle kicks way down and smells terrible - like unburnt fuel or exhaust. Then, I step on the gas and the engine revs realllllly high and then it idles itself out. I can just not step on the gas and it will even itself out, however, I can not stand the smell. I have 3 little kids and I know it can not be safe. I have spent aprox. $1500.00 on "I thinks" or "It seems to be" and I an going broke and could buy a new car. Please help if anyone has any ideas. :P
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    Probably the bushings on the sway bar. They're held in by 2 u-shaped clamps. take out the screws on the clamps and let the bar hang loose and see if the noise goes away. If so, replace the bushings.
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I saw a post, a while ago, about not being able to open the rear hatch (can't find it now) if the outside handle did not work. I recently noticed that my hatch handle was sticking and making an odd noise. Remembering the post, I opened the hatch to get to the mechanism. I found that many of the pieces had rusted. After wire brushing and spray lube, it now works smoothly. Just in case you run into this after the mechanism breaks; from the inside, pry off the plastic trim (the u-shaped piece that covers the top) near where it overlaps the bottom trim. There are 2 screws under there that hold the bottom trim. Remove those screws and pry off as much of the bottom trim as you can and you should be able to reach under the rubber seal and get to the mechanism to release it.
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