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Honda Insight Maintenance and Repair



  • If you got the Owner's Manual with the car, it's on page 59:
    1. Turn off the engine.
    2. Press and hold the trip button in the instrument panel, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).
    3. Hold the button until the indicator resets (approximately ten seconds).
  • ianuianu Posts: 2
    My '03 Insight has a water leak too! I've determined that the water is coming from the passenger side quarter interior trim panel (just below the pass side rear glass). The water ends up on the right side of the hatch's floor, under the trunk carpet. The passenger side seatbelt gets wet (water travels to where the belt winds up near the floor).

    Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any fixes known?
  • ianuianu Posts: 2

    Did you ever get any answers on your water leak problem? Mine's doing it too!

  • plamboplambo Posts: 5
    After taking it to several places (including a dealer) I found a small repair shop guy who told me the back hatch was not closing properly. We discovered the car had been in an accident (which I did nor know when I bought it) and had had the rear hatch window replaced. Anyway, he removed the entire hatch and re-welded the hinges so now the hatch closes more tightly. Its still not perfect but the leak is now very minimal! He only charged me $250 which I felt was a bargain since no one else could do anything at any price.
  • hi all...just thought I'd close my water leaking chapter on my 2001 honda insight. Long story short, if you see my previous post you will see my problem started with a bad windshield replacement. After 2 different body shop repairs my leak is fixed. My leak was coming into the seat belt areas from 3 places, above the door under the side moldings and a little bit in around the antenna. FYI if you ever have a windshield replaced do it at honda, they should understand that when the side moldings go back on they have to go back on in a very specific way, if not done exactly to spec with each of the clips on in place it leaves gaps where water can enter the body and channel into the seat belt area. To properly diagnose they removed the interior head liner and tested the entire roof for leaks, thats how they found the additional small one from the antenna.

    good luck
  • How did you get this as a warranty repair with 120000 miles? My warranty reads 8/80000 unless I'm missing something? I'm asking because my IMA light just came on at 134,000 on my 2000 Insight and my mileage has dropped from 65 to 60 - so I've been anticipating the worst.
  • I have a 2000 insight with 96,000 miles and the car has been bucking while trying to maintain constant speed. Doesn't buck on eccel or decel. Also, the MPG have dropped to 40-43MPG (used to be 60-65). Was told probably the EGR valve. Removed the valve but don't know how to test it. hooked it up to the connector and ran the engine at different throttle positions and it doesn't open or move. Anyone know how to test these EGR valves?
  • slyhamslyham Posts: 2
    When they replaced my IMA controller to correct the battery heating problem, my mileage dropped about 3 - 4 mpg. 45 mpg is unacceptable, and I think you may be being snowed by your dealer. Call Honda USA about this.
  • Try Mavis tire. Got all 4 replaced recently and they were not any more expensive then other tires.
  • So good to hear this. What/where is Mavis Tires?
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    Yes, that's definitely a bad EGR. Get one from a junkyard and you'll be good.
  • I have a 2006 insight windows were slow going up and down put windex on rubber seal fixed it right away, butis there something better for this .
  • I have a 2006 honda insight my milage is around 55.6-57.5 I take it pretty easy but drive the Oregon coast Hwy101 most of the time which is fairly hilly but I see people post mileage of 60 plus. Just wondering if this seems about right.
  • Update on MY battery replacement. I wasn't able to get it replaced under warranty. Apparently the extended warranty time varies by State? Anyway, I was looking at a $3500 - $5000 repair. Not a very nice Christmas present. So just for giggles I searched eBay. Found a battery and the attached modules from a car that had front end damage. Had the entire unit shipped to my local Honda dealer. They installed it. The entire repair cost me about $1000. I know it was risky but there was a 90 day warranty and I purchased the extended warranty from SquareTrade.

    End result - my car runs like new. I lost no mpg when the repair was completed. In fact I actually gained back a couple that we had lost in the last few years. Steadily at 65 mpg. The dealership was great about using the used parts and said the unit looked new. Oh - the eBayer is LKQonline
  • Anyone have any idea for a do-it-yourself fix on a 2002 is tight and don't think I can afford to pay a mechanic. Only 52,000 miles on odometer! :confuse:
    ANY IDEAS????
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    Adjust it? Lubricate it? It's a simple repair.
  • Thanks for your input. Simple for you :) to lub...a bit more difficult for me :cry: , but I tried to get some WD-40 inside the cable sheath and IT WORKED ! ! !
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    Okay, but you've only made a temporary fix. WD40 will gunk up rather quickly. It picks up dirt. Get some "White Lithium Grease". It comes in a spray can. Spray it again with the lithium grease and then work the brake handle a couple dozen times to work it in. (Then spray your door hinges with the stuff - it's what it's designed for.)

    DO NOT GET ANY ON YOUR BRAKES! Just on the cable where it enters the sheath.
  • Great words of advice. Every suggestion is greatly appreciated to keep this old 2002 Insight in tip-top shape until the all new 2010 comes out soon!
  • This sounds like a thermostat problem. It sounds like your thermostat is stuck open which does not allow your coolant to maintain the proper operating temperature in cold weather. Have your radiatior flushed and replace the thermostat and you should be nice and crispy when it's cold outside.
  • My Insight has developed a new trick. It pops out of second gear all by itself. This only happens on deceleration while in second gear and not all the time. I do not believe that hills have any relation to this issue but I may be wrong.
  • svogelsvogel Posts: 1
    2001 Insight. "light" went on last May. Oxygen sensor replaced (fairly expensive). Mileage dropped 10mpg. Dealer repair jiggled idle and since mieage now down about 5mpg (partly fixed problem). Recent check by dealer service says nothing is wrong. Any ideas?
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    What light? The CEL or the IMA? The LAF sensor (upper O2 sensor) is a $400-$600 part. There are literally dozens of things that it could be from the expensive (cat getting clogged) to the cheap (check your tire pressure). Do you have any codes stored? Without codes you have to look at general issues like dragging calipers and CV joints and things like that.
  • I checked the panels under the oil pan & they're all tight, but I still here a rattle noise... :cry: could it be my catalytic converter? :confuse:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,415
    edited November 2010
    A heat shield by the cat? Could be.


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  • I'm checking your the cat. shield out today...Thanks :) !
  • It's like you had a "crystal ball", it IS the cat. heat shield...Wow!!! :surprise:
    Maybe your crystal ball can tell me if that loose heat shield will be an expensive fix?!? :confuse:
    Thank you for your knowledgeable input. ;)
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,415
    Things like heat shields usually aren't an expensive fix. Sometimes it's only that the heat shield got bent and is now too close to something. Unbending doesn't cost much :shades:

    Glad you could find it so easily. Sometimes rattles are a bugger to chase down


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  • I have this same issue with my 2000 Insight (water leaking from below the rear passenger side window) and just had a glass guy come out and check it for me. We took off the inside panel and did a pressure test. The leak is coming from around the fuel intake. He suspected that there is either a missing or damaged gasket. (Either worn out, or possibly left off from some fuel system repair from before I owned the car.)

    Anyway, with a pressure nozzle, it was evident that even from the gas cap area the water could easily get pushed up and look like it's seeping in from below the window.
  • Your heater problem sounds like normal operation in very cold weather. One of the disadvantages of having a very fuel efficient car is that it is, in fact, very efficient. This means that the engine wastes very little energy. Wasted energy is often in the form of heat. So there's less heat generation and therefore less heat available to be blown into the cabin by the climate control system. Also, the car often shuts off at stops (AUTO STOP feature). Since you are not idling, there's even less opportunity for heat generation, and actually gives the engine time to cool down.

    So here's your trade-off... if you want more heat you'll have to sacrifice some MPGs. If you want, you can make the car less fuel efficient during the coldest winter months only. One way to do this is to drive with gear shift in the "S" position during cold weather. The car will have slightly more performance by being higher rev-ing (lower gear ratio). This will create more friction and therefore more heat in the engine. It will also cancel the AUTO STOP feature so you'll generate more heat at stops instead of giving the engine a cool down period. Of course your millage will also go down. Also turn off the ECO button which blunts the climate control in order to improve millage.

    If you really wanted to get crazy, you could pull a fuse to disable the electric portion of the engine (IMA system). The gas engine will then have to do all the work. Working harder generates more heat. Reinstall the fuse in Spring.
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