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Nissan Versa

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Comments

  • Other than the CVT and ABS, did you get "any" additional options on your car (floor mats, etc.)? Also, what was the total OTD (out the door) cost of your Versa? As of now you've told me you paid a base price of $16,485 plus $102 for the title. Out of curiosity, I'd like to know what the Oregon tax added and if you got hit for any other charges that you haven't mentioned. In short, I want to be able to approach this purchase armed with enough information that I can negotiate a fair price. I'm really tired of dealers telling me that they can't possibly sell a vehicle for a certain amount and still make enough profit to buy their kids a hamburger. Because of forums like this one, those statements can now be challenged. Let's face it, if you got a good deal and I'm buying the identical car, I should be able to get it for a similar price.
    Again, any other information that you, or anyone else, can provide me with regarding this matter, will be appreciated. Hopefully, once I have my Versa, I'll be able to help someone else out with any questions they may have.
  • pixel1pixel1 Posts: 14
    tallahassee - I'm fortunate to live in a state with no sales tax, so my OTD price was
    $16587. Breakdown as follows: MSRP 15550, splashguards 110, floormats 150, ABS 250 for total of 16675. I'd called various dealers within a couple hundred miles of us to tell them what we were interested in and what we were willing to pay (MSRP + delivery), and the guy in Medford worked to locate exactly what we wanted down in Calif; got it delivered within 10 days, and worked with us to get the price down to $16485 plus the $102 for title, so we ended up at the aforementioned $16587.
    Hope you can work something out to get what you want at the right price.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    the markup between dealer invoice and MSRP is about $300. Hold back is less than $500-600.

    DO not expect to get a discount off of MSRP.

    Mark.
  • Thanks for the cost breakdown. Now that you've verified that the information on Edmunds.com is "reasonable", I'm much more comfortable with the price I'm willing to offer my local dealer. I just wish I still lived in Oregon (Springfield) and didn't have to add on the FL state tax.
    Enjoy your car and hopefully I'll be driving my own Versa in the near future.
  • All I expect is to pay a fair price. I agree that my cost should include the dealer making a "reasonable" profit. After all, he/she has bills to pay, too. However, since I grew up before computer forums and web sites like Edmunds.com became available, memories of my early car buying experiences still haunt me. I definitely got "taken" on numerous occasions. Luckily, I think I can now say those days are history.
    Hopefully I have answered your question.
    PS---By chance, are you a car dealer or do you work for one? If so, let me repeat some words of wisdom that I'm sure you've hear before. "A happy customer will likely be a return customer!" Also, a good "word of mouth" can sell a lot of cars.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    The mark-up on a Versa is more than $300. Even in a absolute base model the difference between M.S.R.P. and invoice is around $600. The reason I know this is because I am sitting in my desk in the showroom looking at invoices of cars I have sitting on the lot. Other models have a much different pricing structure. For example we have an 06 Armada on the lot with a M.S.R.P of 42k. After rebates and removing all profit from the deal we can "give" that truck away for 34k. Anyway if anyone has questions about what a dealer can and cannot do just ask.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,871
    I figured the markup was in that range. I've been dealing with the same salesman at my Datsun/Nissan dealership since 1979. he understands my position and I understand his,and we always come out with a deal that keeps us both happy. Price I got on my base model Versa was $13,675.

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  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    sorry, we have a $300 pack. So i mispoke.

    Mark.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,441
    I haven't been following the Versa threads too closely, but seem to recall hearing grumbling about poor MPG.

    Well, Road & Track did a comparison test of the Versa, Fit and Yaris this month. About what you would expect for conclusions (Versa is bigger, more of a "real car", tons of room, but the Fit is sportier with better interior materials).

    The big surprise was the mileage they got (all manual trannies): Versa 32.2, Yaris 32.1, Fit 28.x (approx., since this is from memory).

    THis included normal driving, some time on a small race track, performance testing. So maybe not what normal owners will do, but it does show what can happen when you wring out a smaller, higher revving engine.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    This is the second time in this discussion that you have "misspoken" on this point, and the second time you have been corrected. I am glad we have some other Nissan salespeople contributing here, who provide accurate pricing information.
  • inharmswayinharmsway Posts: 153
    lemonhater. I wonder if the cvt lag is less pronounced if you put the cvt in "low gear" or instead lock out the "overdrive" before you step on it to accelerate? I only went for a short test drive, and I cannot remember.
    inharmsway
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    Versa SL Hatchback

    Splash Gaurds
    Convenience Package
    Rear Spoiler
    Floor Mats
    Aluminum Kick Plate

    M.S.R.P. 17565.00

    I Can sell this car right now for $17,193 + tax title and license and still afford to keep the lights on and my family fed. That may not seem like much of a discount but the reality is that there is not that much of a markup on these particular models. The dealers are making the money on them with back end items like warranties.

    Also here is a little story for all of you. This past Saturday we sold a Sentra to a young man. It was his first new vehicle. Had just graduated college and gotten his first "real" job. Brought his parents in, they were so proud. His mother told him not to get gap insurance for $400 because it was a scam. We tried our best to explain to him it was important but he would not take it. We took it off and he saved a few dollars a month on his payment. Well he signed everything, rang the gong in the showroom and walked out to his new car. No sooner than he pulled over the curb on to our street he was creamed by an SUV. Airbags deployed and his car was totaled. Now he is going to be in the hole on that car because he did not want to take the gap insurance we offered. When it comes down to it he would have saved a few hundred dollars over 5 years. Instead he is going to lose a few thousand in a matter of seconds. Evereyone wants to have a low payment but don't screw yourself in the long run by being excessively cheap.

    p.s. I'm happy to help anyone who has questions but do me a favor and buy the car from me if you live anywhere near Michigan. ;)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If this truly happened (I have serious doubts), he should be fine. The only reason he would need Gap insurance is if the value of the car is less then his loan payoff. Not unless he rolled over negative equity into the loan or paid over MSRP (ha ha) or had some other funky "no early payment" clause, he should receive the full amount he paid for the car and pay off the principal of the loan. He may lose a few hundred dollars for the "dealer fees" but he'll start back at zero.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    Do you honestly believe what you are saying? When that vehicle rolled over the curb it became a used car and lost value. If you think that any insurance adjuster will pay that vehicle off after it's left the dealership and still keep thier job then you obviously live in some sort of fairytale land. Hence the reason gap insurance exists and the manufacturers know enough to make sure it is included in every single lease vehicle given the fact that they technically still own them. As far as whether it really happened or not you are more than entitled to your doubt. It was first for me though and I've been doing this for 10 years. Prior to this the worst thing I ever saw happen to someone pulling off the lot was the front facia falling off of a Saleen mustang and the customer (a local radio d.j.) running it over. Anyway I am sure I am wrong and you are right considering your years of experience and the two thousand vehicles you have sold (oh wait that's me) :D
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    In NJ, you only end up paying for your deductable (if you were at fault) plus a fixed depreciation rate per mile driven.

    (f) If the insured vehicle is a private passenger automobile of the current model year, meaning that the vehicle has not been
    superseded in the market place by an officially introduced succeeding model, the insurer shall utilize one of the following
    methods in the settlement of the loss, unless the utilization of (a) or (b) above is more favorable to the consumer.
    1. Either the insurer shall pay the insured an amount equal to the reasonable purchase price on the date of the loss of a new
    identical vehicle, less any applicable deductible and an allowance for depreciation in accordance with the schedule below;
    or
    2. The insurer shall provide the insured with a new identical replacement vehicle charging the insured for any applicable
    deductible and for depreciation in accordance with the schedule below:
    Depreciation Schedule
    Purchase Price Depreciation per mile
    Up to $ 6,500 $0.10
    $ 6,501-$ 8,000 0.12
    8,001- 10,000 015
    10,001- 12,000 0.18
    12,001- 15,000 0.21
    15,001- 20,000 0.25
    More than $20,000 0.29
    (g) In the event of a total loss, any parts of the insured vehicle included in its valuation which are removed by the insured or
    the designated representative shall have their value deducted from the final settlement figure. This section shall not be
    construed to grant a right of removal.

    I don't know how other states work.

    Mark.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Gap insurance is a lease serves a different purpose. It protects the leaseor from a difference between the calculated residual at inception and a deficit at auction at the end of the lease.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    Yeah insurance in New jersey is unlike insurance in pretty much every other state. The state of New Jersey screwed everything up when they tried to change to a government program. For a while there after the NJ Government screwed it all up State Farm would not even come back there. Not sure if they are finally back in the state yet.
  • garandmangarandman Posts: 524
    I've always liked small cars - although I don't fit in a lot of them. Lately I've been looking at mid-range and higher mid-sized sedans. But I was very impressed with the Versa.

    Anyone driving a lot of business miles in one? Am I the only middle-aged male on the planet comparing an Infiniti G35 and a Versa?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    mschmal: Thank you for providing that information.

    Let's see, the buyer's first car, first real job, so i'm not surprised he wants to keep his monthly payment as low as possible. You never mentioned if his insurance policy includes Gap insurance. You know he can buy it from his insurance agent. I'm sure someone who "been doing this for 10 years" knows this and it is normally much, much cheaper to buy from your insurance agent. Do you happen to know that this person did not have Gap insurance as part of his coverage?

    Second, the ink was barely dry on contract when he totaled the car. The miles on the odometer match the miles on the paperwork. If he has a legitimate insurance company, he will most likely get what he paid for the car (and sales tax). Like I mentioned, less any fees he had to pay, starting him back at zero. I thought the Sentra was a good car with fairly low depreciation for "small" car. So why would he lose several thousand dollars for simply driving off the curb? In your mind, yes it loses value because if he traded the car to you, you can not sell it as new since it was titled so he would lose several thousand dollars in that situation.

    Of course, his premiums will go up.

    BTW, how did the car hold up versus the SUV?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    I would only recommend GAP insurance to people:

    1. financing more than the MSRP of the new car. Either because they did not cover sales tax and any aftermarket options with rebates or downpayment.

    2. Buying a preowned car without at least a 10% downpayment.

    3. Including negative equity into the new loan.

    4. Be cautious of buying a "left over". Many times a left over is depreciated by more than the rebates and discounts you will receive. This is especially true if the new model year vehicle is restyled or redesigned.

    5. If you drive more than 15,000 miles per year, GAP may be a good option if you are not making a down payment.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    Not to many insurance companies in my state offer gap coverage. This particular person had State Farm and did not have any sort of gap coverage.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    It actually help up relatively well. SUV was traveling at a pretty nice pace when this guy pulled in front of it. Spun the Sentra a few times. Even so I'm pretty sure State Farm is going to total it
  • flightnurseflightnurse 35K feetPosts: 1,631
    GAP insurance is usally purchased while in the fiance office at the dealership. Its cheap, about $500, but if you plan on paying alittle extra each month towards your monthly payments, GAP insurance isn't really needed.
  • dhauerdhauer Posts: 16
    GAP is $400 here and it is figured automatically on any initial payment we quote. If we have to strip a payment out just to try and move a car we will pull the GAP out and let the F&I try to add it back on during closing. And unless you are putting a large sum down or only financing for 36mo or less I would get the GAP. It's worth $400 over 5 years to be on the safe side.
  • berbarberbar Posts: 5
    I would like to ask about the average RPMs at which the Versa's CVT works.

    And additionally (I've asked this before, yet no answer), I would like to know about selling a pre-owned car (Versa) which has mechanical transmition. Would it be difficult? For example in California?

    Thank you.
  • flightnurseflightnurse 35K feetPosts: 1,631
    for the CVT, 40MPH is about 1500, 60 MPH is about 1800, 70 is about 2100 and 80 is about 2400 rpms.

    Now regading your question about the resale value of the Manual Versa.. I think I answered this before, but here it goes again.

    In the last 10 yrs, there has been a slow movement to cars with automatic transmissions. Reason for this IMHO is, conveneice, its a pain in the butt to shift all the time, with how traffic has become. In Calif the freeway system is clogged at times and to sit with your foot on the clutch and move 2 oe 3 ft at a time is not convient. So as far as resale goes, a auto or CVT versa would be a better choice, but then again, there are some people out there that are die hard manuel shifter and that is all they want..

    This is a personel call..

    Tony
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Posts: 5,695
    good explanation on the automatic CVT or the stick shift manual. My wife and I just bought a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS with the CVT automatic transmission.

    It's funny because I went to the dealer fully expecting to test drive and buy a 5-speed manual Lancer GTS. Turns out they didn't have a GTS Lancer with the 5-speed and the Sun and Sound package. Long story short we test drove and bought the Lancer GTS with the CVT automatic. My wife wants to get her driver's license driving our new Lancer and I wanted to buy at that time and not later so we did it.

    It has the paddle-shifters on the steering wheel and cruise control on the steering wheel and you can paddle shift automatic 1 through 6 gears or just leave it in 'D' and move along w/o having to paddle shift. You can also go back down to 1 from 6th gear with the paddle shifters. It's the driver's choice. Audio controls are also on the leather-wrapped steering wheel.

    Even though this is a Versa thread and I don't own one nor am I buying one I wanted to chime in on this subject. Most cars(90% of all sold cars)are automatic-trannied cars. It's a good resale business decision for down the road to get an automatic.

    Anyhow, we love our new Lancer GTS and y'all enjoy your new or nearly-new Versa's, whichever tranny you choose or chose!

    2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS

  • berbarberbar Posts: 5
    Tony,

    Thank you for your answer. I apologize if you had answered it before, I never found it.

    I would say I am a “die hard shifter” since I learned to drive on manual cars, and “interstate” roads in my country are mostly in the mountains (lots of uphills and curves). Maybe that is why I like to feel more “in control”.

    However, from dealers’ inventories I have looked (in CA) on Nissan’s website, ALL Versa SLs are CVT, which doesn’t leave much choice. I think I’ll follow your recommendation.

    And thank you for you comprehensive answer about the RPMs.

    Cheers.
  • flightnurseflightnurse 35K feetPosts: 1,631
    no problem and happy motoring...

    Tony
  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    I'm not here to just critize the Versa. I think it's a fantastic car that genuinely an exciting vehicle. But one oddity about it and the new Sentra I'm really puzzled about. I've driven both; bothare really fine cars. However, the manual shift quality on both is so bad that it really kills having fun in either car. And I'm not talking about overtly sporting driving,either. Both cars really clang through each shift...Just no pleasing fluidity to either. Is just in brand new cars? Has anyone else noticed this? I'd really like a Versa as a going-to-work commuter, but I just don't think I could live with the shift...I've never driven a new car so clunky...
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