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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions

1246

Comments

  • nev3nev3 Posts: 1
    help i have a golf mark3 1996 model and when i turn my key in the door it turns but doesnt open the door it went on the passenger side first then the driver side went next. Has anyone had this problem or know how to solve this problem i would be very much grateful :blush:
  • A few days ago, my power sunroof started opening and closing a couple of inches on its own while I was driving. My sunroof was in the off position. I got it to stop opening and closing by turing the knob to an on setting, and then back to off. That seems to have stopped the strangeness, but I still have no clue as to the cause. Any ideas?

    Also, yesterday, my stereo refused to turn on. It was working fine the day before, then I got into my car and start it the next day, and my radio is dead. The alarm light is blinking, so it just looks like the stereo doesn't realize the car is on. Could this be connected to the sunroof issue? Again, any ideas?

    My going theory is that rough roads have jiggled some connections loose. I live in Colorado, and we have some major side street issues at the moment. We have ice ruts 4-6 inches high and only a little pavement showing. It's been a very bumpy ride for the past 4 weeks. Is that plausible, or am I missing something more obvious? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: I want to banish these bizzare electrical gremlins from my car!
  • Hi There,

    I am having the exact same problems. Have you had any luck with either issue?

    The car just stalls out whenever it wants. It seems to do it more when the car is warmed up. This is the fourth time it's been in the shop in 4 months. It's always one reason or another as to whey this happens.
    The oil light first came on when I was leaving the highway. I pulled over and checked all the oils and everything was fine. The light, at first, only came on when slowing down from high speeds, pick up the speed/rpms and it would go out. Now it just comes on whenever, but only seems to happen when the car is warmed up.

    The car is at VW right now. Let's see what they say today.
  • (This is a follow-up to message #93) Well, I had to have my car towed to VW yesterday becuase it wouldn't start. Looks like I needed a new battery. I'm not too surprised by that as the old battery was the one from the factory and was 5 years old. Plus with the weeks of temperatures at or below 20 degrees, I see now that a dead battery was pretty inevitable.

    While they had my car, I had them check my stereo, and it was inoperable becuase of a blown fuse. The fuse was replaced, and the stereo works fine again, but they said I'll need to get a new stereo if the fuse blows again. A second blown fuse would indicate that it's the stereo itself that was shorting out.

    I asked about the sunroof strangeness (the opening and closing on its own), and they pretty much told me that it would be an extensive (also meaning expensive) diognostic to do becuase of all the visual wiring checks required and they would also have to try to re-create the issue. Since I got the sunroof to stop moving on its own, and it still responds to its controls, I opted to not have them look at it at this time. I figure I'll wait for it to get worse so it will be easier for someone to recreate the situation.

    Has anybody had this happen with their sunroof before? Will it get worse? What was the cause? Any information on this issue would still be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • Hey to everyone...
    First time here, so please forgive me if I am using it incorrectly.
    My problem just recently started:
    My "open door" indicator light goes on and off randomly if the door is shut or open. Mainly it is just plain annoying. I'll be driving, and it will decide to tell me my door is open...when it is not.
    If I hit the panel right next to my handle and lock, it sometimes goes off...
    Can I just cut the wire to it?
    Remove the fuse...?

    ANy help is appreciated... :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You should really consider having this FIXED because it may affect the alarm system.

    There are several microSwitches in each door on a circuitboard. Please check the following links which explain. ($3 fix)

    Door Switch link

    Another DoorSwitch link
  • I will include a picture to help illustrate my problem, but let me ask it as simple as possible just in case it doesn't work. I would like to know on my 2000 Golf, on the SMALLER lamp, not the larger one more towards the side of the car, but the smaller one, is it REALLY necessary to remove the front bumper to replace the bulb? I can replace the larger daytime running lamp by just popping out the headlight assembly and detaching it from the wire">, but it seems i cant pull out the blown out bulb for the other lamp without removing the front bumper or the headlamp itself. All help is genuinely appreciated.
    image
  • All these problems seem inter-related. I am experiencing the same problems with my '02 Golf 2.0L. Just before Christmas '06, my EPC light came on and my brake lights would not go out. I figured this was just a brake light switch problem (it ended up going away on its own). A few weeks after that, my sunroof opened on its own. A week after that, my radio would not come on. Just a few hours ago, my car wouldn't start (battery very weak evidentally). I wish I could offer up a solution, but the best I can do is relate my common story. There seems to be some "sneak" electrical paths in there some where (possibly a short in the system, but haven't checked my fuses yet). A sneak path seems more reasonable to me because of the other electrical problems and the battery dying.
  • > .its the regulator...if you look under the hood there is a little black box next to the firewall. I bet the casing is cracked and when it gets wet it arcs causing a short.

    The location is correct, but the part you described is actually the coil/ignition control unit. You will need a special torx socket to remove the two bolts that secure the unit to the firewall....
  • My 96 golf 2 litre has an odd electrical problem when the weather is warm. While driving, the car will cut out completely for a second and then perform faultlessly - until its stopped and you try to restart it. It fires but then dies like you've lost the magnet in the ignition key. When the weather is cool the car doesn't have this problem which makes me think it's a sensor but which one?
    My technician says that the on-board computer tells him that the crank sensor has a problem but would that be affected by heat?

    At my wits end - any help would be appreciated.
  • Twice in the past two days I have gotten out my car and attempted to lock it with my remote and have noticed that it won't lock. The clock and odometer readings also turn off inside the car. Just wondering if anyone knows if this could be an alternator prob or if this has happened to anyone else?
  • Depending on the age of the car the Transmission may need to be checked. Any "knocking" while shifting may be a signal of failing transmission
  • Did A search online found this:
    It seems that VW did such a great job of insulating the terminals on 1994-95 Golfs and Jettas (Bosch reman alternators AL0185X, AL0186X, AL0181X, AL0184X) that they inadvertently created some low/dead battery problems on these cars.

    In some cases, the eyelet connector of the wiring harness, which connects to the B+ stud of the alternator, had just enough extra insulation applied to it to keep it from making good contact. This, in turn, prevents the alternator from charging properly.

    To prevent a return trip to the battery charger, VW suggests that you disconnect the battery ground, remove the eyelet terminal from the alternator B+ stud and remove approximately 6mm of the insulation from the terminal. Then, some die electric gel should be applied to the eyelet before re-attaching to the B+ stud with a torque of 13Nm or 10 ft lbs. Then, reattach the battery ground.
  • Thanks a lot for your reply. So I found the two grounds connected to the rear tail lights. There was no visible corrosion but I unscrewed them and scrubbed them with sandpaper and tightened everything back up. Then I removed every lightbulb and used the sandpaper on them. All the sockets looked clean. Separately, I checked all the fuses related to the brakelights and indicators. Still having the same problem though as described in message #90.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The problem you describe sounds like what we electrical techs call a "ground loop". Apparently you did not locate the point of poor ground. Dont forget, it may be ANYWHERE in the circuit which controls the lighting.

    I Personally, I would be using a DVM (Digital VoltMeter) and have my wife pushing on the brake pedal. Oftentimes, it is FARR easier to just add another ground wire to complete the circuit instead of trying to locate the faulty one.

    Have you tried doing your cleaning process to every ground wire you can find under the hood which is screwed to the body?
  • It doesn't look like there was a response to this yet, so perhaps a bump will result in an answer.. I am also looking for a relay diagram for my 97 Golf. I've scoured the internet with little result and have contacted VW directly for the info. If that should yield anything, I'll post here. In the meantime, if there are any other owners willing to look at their relay layout and post here, that would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Andrea
  • My '96 Golf starts strongly, except once in Dec., and then again 2 days ago. The tow truck guy checked the battery and the alternator and said they were fine. A jump started the car (the first time), as did rocking it (two days ago). Turning the key to start would result either in no lights on the dash or a quick flicker of the lights and then off. I would appreciate any ideas about what to do next. TIA
  • ssilvassilva Posts: 6
    I have a VW GOLF 1.8t.. it's an '01.. with about 56,000 miles on it.. and now it seems when ever i start it up, its stalling.. my car is automatic though. Also, my engine light is on, but i got that checked out, and they said it was because i had a head unit put in that wasn't compatible with the car. SO i got that taken out, and had the computer reset in my car, but the engine light is on. any thoughts on that or the stalling?!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you are saying that the engine dies immedeatly after starting... that sounds like the IMMOBILIZER kicking in. It thinks the car is stolen or the key is forgery.

    I would look into that CEL. It could also be a clue.
  • ssilvassilva Posts: 6
    well thanks.. i dont think it's stolen though.. i've had it for a while.. and what's CEL.? sorry i kno basically nothing about car's.. i'm a 17 yr old girl...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Each of my 2 daughters have VWs. They are the safest small car on the road.

    CEL ==> Check Engine Light

    I was not suggesting that your car is stolen. It is possible for the IMMOBILIZER to *think* the key is a forgery. The symptoms would be the engine will start and immedeatly shut itself off. Is that not what you are complaining about?

    Most often, this kind of problem is related to the ring around the ignition key hole which "senses" the chip in the key.

    Dont forget that VW uses a computer-chip imbedded into the key to determine if the key is a forgery.

    One way you can prove or disprove that this is a problem with the immonilizer is to try the other 2 keys that came with your car.
    *)If the problem does NOT happen with those keys, then your problem must be the key you are using.
    *)If the problem DOES happen, then it is likely that the immobilizer is the problem.

    As I said before - A scan of the CEL codes can give you more information.
  • ssilvassilva Posts: 6
    alright well thank you a lot!
  • sjb269sjb269 Posts: 1
    HOPEFULLY SOMEONE CAN HELP ME WITH THIS, AS I KNOW ALARMS ON VW'S ARE FINNICKY!! I GOT INTO MY 95 VW GOLF GL TO GO TO WORK, IT CRANKED FOR A SEC OR TWO THEN IT JUST STOPPED. EVER SINCE THAT TIME I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE CAR TO START.. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED, TOOK THE STARTER OFF TO GET IT TESTED, INSTALLED A NEW IGNITION SWITCH... STILL NOTHING. THEN FINALLY I THOUGHT MAYBE IT WAS THE IMMOBILIZER ON THE ALARM CUZ I HEAD A CLICKING COMING FROM THE ALARM ECU. IF I LOCKED THE DRIVERS DOOR AND OPENED IT I AM THEN ABLE TO CRANK THE CAR FOR A SEC UNTIL THE ALARM GOES OFF AGAIN. THE FLASHERS FLASH AND THE CAR WILL NOT CRANK AFTER THIS HAPPENS.. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED!!! THANK YOU!!!!
  • ssilvassilva Posts: 6
    i dont know if this will help you.. but when i would go to start my car.. it would crank.. and like then kinda turn off.. but the battery light and all those would be on.. and it turned out.. it was my key.. so maybe that's ur prob?
  • walts1walts1 Posts: 2
    Many thanks for your response. The big problem is that it happened only twice, and weeks apart. The consensus so far
    points to the ignition, but I'm reluctant to go that expensive
    route of repair when the car starts 99% of the time. It is a
    variation of Russian roulette.
  • ssilvassilva Posts: 6
    well good luck with it!
  • dblj369dblj369 Posts: 3
    Has anyone else had problems with the windshield wiper motors on their 2003 (or other model year) VW Golfs? Mine has died 4 times while driving in rain/snow/ice. Most recently it happened during the ice storm on Friday as I was driving across the Delaware River. VW dealer wants to charge me $90 to diagnose the problem and the VW advocacy line says another 50 people have to contact them with the same problem for a recall...
  • nanstagnanstag Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 VW Beetle and have the same problem. The dealer replaced the motor once 2 months ago and the wipers still quit. They quit the other night in a heavy rain storm. Do you know if VW is aware of this?
  • wooly4wooly4 Posts: 1
    My Golf has had 3 failures related to the windshield wipers. All related to arm becoming disconnected from the wiper motor under load (heavy snow etc). The latest happened this morning. First repair was under warranty, the next 3 months ago which I paid for. I think there is a defect in the design but my dealer doesn't think so...
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