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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions

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  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,890
    So to clarify, the car will start and run, but nothing else that's electrical works? Or is it just the dashboard instrumentation that's out?

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  • pp2pp2 Posts: 2
    Hi All I have a Golf 2001 1600cc 5 door hatchback, This morning when I started the car the interior lights would not go out, and the message on the dash said " drivers door open" I opened and closed the drivers door and all the other door without success, I can not use the remote key fob to open and lock the doors or to set the alarm since this has happened. I know that we had tremendous wind and rain last night would this have made any difference?
    Can anyone help with a solution on how to repair the fault.

    Regards
    PP2
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Sounds like one of the door switches is stuck or shorted out, and of course, this sends a signal to your anti-theft system. You might try a little electrical spray cleaner on them and see if that helps clean 'em up or dislodge them (if they are the movable type). Otherwise, you'll have to disconnect them one by one and test them for their "on-off" continuity with an ohm meter.

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The door-switchs are burried inside the latch mecanism inside the door. As I recall, there are 3 microSwitches inside each door which send signals to the onboard computer about the "status" of locking mecanism. (locked, unlocked, doorOpen, doorClosed....etc)

    These switches are KNOWN to get flakey sometimes. (especially after a rainstorm). In this "flakey" condition, they may send signals that the computer does not understand. (door OPEN and CLOSED at same time.....-or- door LOCKED and UNLOCKED at same time)

    If you search the internet, you will find some folks have posted photos showing how to access the switches and how to clean them so the contacts are working again.

    Sometimes when my VW gets like this, I repeatedly lock/unlock the door for several minutes.... this tends to "exercize" the microSwitches and clean up the contacts. After that, they work for several months.
  • pp2pp2 Posts: 2
    Hi hope you well ,thanks for your speedy reply. I have had a quick look on the net for instructions for removal and cleaning of the contacts as you suggested. But cant find any information would you be kind enough to give me any contact addresses that I may try?

    Kind regards

    PP2 :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here is link which shows photos accessing the doorswitches Most of the time you can simply re-solder the bad connections.

    If you have to replace a microswitch, here is link to use $3 part at Radio Shack .

    .
  • rugbytexrugbytex Posts: 1
    3 weeks ago, I took my GTI to an aftermarket mechanic, after it had issues not starting. I bought this car in March 2010, and it has 55, 000 miles on it. It will start beautifully once it is connected via jumper cables, but is having issues starting on it's own. I thought it was the battery, and had it checked three different places, which all said it checked out fine. I took it to advance auto, where I ran a diagnostic, which told me that something was pulling power from the battery. I took it to the said aftermarket mechanic, and of course it started perfectly, no problems without fail. I noted that it was on 3/4 of a tank of gas at the time.
    When I hit less than a 1/2 tank of gas, it didn't start again, but did with a jump. I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, where he stated it was the battery, and replaced it. A week later, it would not start again, and I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, who stated that he hooked up to the voltage meter, stated that it pulled the regular 3300 milliamps for 15-20 minutes after it was parked, and then intermittently had a parasitic draw of 3300 milliamps 2 -3 hours after sitting there. He suggested that I take it to the dealer.
    SO I took it to the dealer, left it over night, and it started up the next AM. They ran a diagnostic, and told me that I might have had a bad plate in the new battery. I let them keep it, with the old battery in it, in hopes that it would not start this AM. Naturally, it started like a champ. The service tech stated that he did not want to pull the old (potentially bad 1 week old battery out) until he can figure out the issue. Now it is sitting at the dealer for the weekend.
    Any thoughts? I have had both mechanics check everything I know that could be causing it not to start....including fuel pump and system, alternator, sensors, electrical system....
    Thanks for any help in advance....
  • vw golf 1.4 1999 petrol the engine management light will not show at all with fault on the car so i cant put the ecu on the car could anyone help me or tell me about why the engine managment light will not show at all even on ignition
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are being led down a primrose path.... The mechanic who measured the parasitic draw was on the right path... but most of the other folks you worked with were full of cr@p.

    A parasitic draw on the battery CANNOT be blamed on the battery. That "dealership" may not have their best factory-trained electronics personall on your issue.

    The standard troubleshooting process should work just fine:
    1) We know there is a parasitic draw on the battery.
    2) Pull fuses or disconnect wires to isolate the problem-circuit.
    3) troubleshoot down to the specific problem component
    4) Fix it!

    Of course the above process works better if one has a good schematic digram and electronics knowledge. Any knowledgable person should have the problem-circuit isolated within 30 minutes....then consult the schematic digrams to continue from there.

    Suggestions for troubleshooting this issue.
    *) Set up ammeter to monitor the parasitic draw as you troubleshoot.
    *) Pull each the wires off of the master fusebox (located on top of the battery.)... until the specific one causing the problem is ioslated.
    *) use schematic digram to figure out where that wire leads to.
  • we have a 2003 golf, now the battery dies, no specific problem, my daughter goes out in the morning and it won't turn over.

    Several months ago the radio would turn its self on while the car was off, but the battery never died, 2 months ago we replaced the radio and cd player. 2 weeks ago she went out and the car was dead, we had it towed to the dealer, they said the battery was dead, they charged it and kept it 3 full days but could never find where anything was draining a charge from the battery. Today she goes out, the car is dead again. The dealer says there is nothing to do but try and find the drain. I have asked about some kind of switch that would keep it from draining the battery and he said it is not possible. She is suppose to leave on a 1600 mile trip with this car.

    I have not idea what to do, what to ask
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You asked about "some kind of switch that would keep it from draining the battery"

    Have you considerd a "Battery Buddy" ? ... its purpose in life is to automaticly disconnect the battery from the car if its voltage gets too low... hence preventing battery from draining completely.

    Obviously, this would to SOLVE your problem...just would be a 'band aid'.
  • I had similar problem. My radio created a short in the system and killed the battery. Replaced the head unit with a new battery. A week later the battery wasn't charging. So of course it is the alternator. Got it replaced and it dies the next day again. He looked at it again and said he couldn't find it. I took it to another mechanic and he found that the alternator was overcharging. I don't know if the alternator does this when first installed or sometimes changed but maybe the battery isn't charging because the alternator is sucking too much out of it each night.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    woahhh - Your understanding of electronics is very interesting ;-)

    I dont even know where to start here...
    You said "My radio created a short in the system and killed the battery." How is that possible... that is why they invented fuses.

    You said that you "Replaced the head unit with a new battery." Why did you you do that? Was the battery under the hood not satisfactory?

    Then you say "A week later the battery wasn't charging. So of course it is the alternator"... how do you know that this problem was due to the alternator? Most charging issues are caused by faulty voltage-regulator.

    Then you say "the alternator was overcharging." ... Perhaps you mean the "battery was getting too high a charging voltage"?

    Then you suggest "the alternator is sucking too much out of it each night" ... HUH?? an alternator sucks?

    In reality what most likely happend was the 1st "mechanic" knew very little about electronics and decide to replace the alternator to get some of your money. That is why he did not want to deal with your problem any longer (he already got some of your money)

    The, 2nd "mechanic" suggested the charging voltage was too high... this is OBVIOUSLY a problem with the voltage-regulator.... not alternator at all.

    BOTTOM LINE: If you want to fix a charging problem, use a voltmeter and electronics-skills. It takes about 10 minutes to isolate any problems. Most "mechanics" may be wonder-boy when it comes to mechanical issues... but they know very little about electronics.

    Back to the original discussion - To isolate an "electrical drain" simply monitor the milliamp draw from the battery and start pulling fuses until you isolate the problem curcuit. Then look at the electronic schematic to see what components that fuse protects.... simple as pie. (cept, I cant cook worth a cr@p)
  • Hi all hope someone can help me with this one. I have a 1995 mrk3 golf estate. Driving home one night my oil light starts to flash and i loose rev counter and speedo on my dash , then suddenly it all goes back to normal. Couple of days later the problem is back and it eventually drained the battery. Thought it was a faulty dash so i managed to get my hands on a new dash.Plugged it in and the problem was still there. Brought it to a company who specialise in car electrics and after a couple of days said two wires behind the fuse bow had rubbed together causing a short circuit, problen solved i thuoght. Car was fine for a couple of months then recently driving one day on comes the oil light and total loss of the rev counter and speedo. drove it untill the complete dash failed and the car cut out due to battery going flat. When it happens my fan heater and window wipers run slow. After recharging my battery attemped the journey home only to find that about a mile from my house when i took off from a set of traffic lights and was above 20 mph everything started to work again only to fail once i was at traffic lights. Have checked all the wires around fuse box and in the engine. This one is driving me mad Please Help.Steve
  • mrk3ermrk3er Posts: 3
    Hi all hope someone can help me with this one. I have a 1995 mrk3 golf estate. Driving home one night my oil light starts to flash and i loose rev counter and speedo on my dash , then suddenly it all goes back to normal. Couple of days later the problem is back and it eventually drained the battery. Thought it was a faulty dash so i managed to get my hands on a new dash.Plugged it in and the problem was still there. Brought it to a company who specialise in car electrics and after a couple of days said two wires behind the fuse bow had rubbed together causing a short circuit, problen solved i thuoght. Car was fine for a couple of months then recently driving one day on comes the oil light and total loss of the rev counter and speedo. drove it untill the complete dash failed and the car cut out due to battery going flat. When it happens my fan heater and window wipers run slow. After recharging my battery attemped the journey home only to find that about a mile from my house when i took off from a set of traffic lights and was above 20 mph everything started to work again only to fail once i was at traffic lights. Have checked all the wires around fuse box and in the engine. This one is driving me mad Please Help.Steve
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello All: 2006 Golf 2.0, 65k miles. OK, I have had complete faith in this rig since my son purchased it about two years ago with 36k miles. Suddenly, it's starting to remind me of my '02 Passat, and let's just say...that's NOT a good thing. Problem #1: A couple of months ago, all of the dash lights, including the instrument cluster, bonked out. No problema during the day, but it sucks having to use a small flashlight in the car at night! I checked EVERY fuse...all OK. Pulled the reostat and headlight switch out of the dash...no problem evident (there is no juice flowing IN to the rheostat...I was wondering if I could connect a line from a fuse into the line side of the reostat, which might then light the instrument lights?? Comments, anyone?). Problem #2: A few weeks ago, the interior lights won't come on when the driver door is opened, and the door SELF-LOCKS even despite the door being opened. It sounds like a driver door microswitch to me (the lights fail to come in ONLY when the driver door is opened. Has anyone had this problem, and do you know where the microswitch is located, and is it easily replaced? Problem #3: Now the airbag light has come on! This has an ominous, expensive sound to it, unless the microswitch has something to do with all of this garbage. Comments appreciated. Thanks...vwdawg
  • does the whole dash go out or just the speedo and tach? a good way to tell if the cluster has lost total power at all is to look at the trip meter. if it lost total power, it will be at zero.if just one or more systems(i.e. tach,speedo, oil only,) then meter should stay the same meaning wiring from them in a bundle or component. since your wipers/fan are running slow there is a massive sudden steady short drawing power from the battery. chances are its in a component or connection( like a pin of a plug not fully meeting) to one, not a rubbing wiring. have u replaced your battery? have any other issues like headlights acting weird? anything that you would smack to get working the right way? need more info.
  • shano20shano20 Posts: 1
    Hi i have 2001 golf 1.4 petrol. Ive been having a problem with it for a while now. Wen ur driving thr car sometimes looses power for a split second and the rev counter drops suddenly and after a few minutes of that happening the rev clock wil then drop to 0 and stay there while driving then the oil light comes on and wen u deaccelerate or brake the car will cut out. This alll usually happens when u are driving for approx 15 to 20 mins. Would be grateful if anyone coild help me as ive been to two mechanics and voildnt find the problem
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Sorry...I inadvertantly just sent a blank message. My job involves going into my 2006 Golf quite frequently, but I get very annoyed because of the feature that automatically locks all the doors as soon as the vehicle reaches 10 MPH. When I stop, get out of the car and need to open a door, they're of course all locked, so I have to either press the unlock button inside, or get the remote of of my pocket and do the same. I called a local Vdub dealer and asked if that feature could be disabled. He said "Sure, no problem, just bring it in and for around $100 we can take care of it". I told him that I have access to a VAG COM and could I just get the code so I can do it myself? He immediately went into "I'm not the one who does this procedure...have no idea" mode. I understand that they would lose a few bucks, but come on...I have owned six Vdubs and Audis...and they won't take 60 seconds to ask the tech for the code for a loyal Vdub guy? (I think my Volvo dealer WOULD do that for me). Anyway...has anyone figured out how to disable this locking feature, or have the code to do so? I think you can do it yourself with newer Vdubs, but not on a six-year-old Golf. Help! vwdawg
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have a 3-ring notebook kept with my VagCom with all kinds of tidbits in it. (How to manually turn on the ABS pump to bleed brakes, How to re-sychronize the fly-by-wire throttle pedal to the throttle-plate...etc)

    I am CERTAIN you are not the first person who asked this question. Have you tried searching the various VagCom forums? (or even read the VagCom instruction manual?)
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