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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions

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  • bozabbozab Posts: 1
    hi,i own a 1997 golf,which i took for a service last week.next day i noticed that the radio stayed on when the ignition was switched off,strange.today i noticed that the warning buzzer to tell you that your sidelights and parking light are still on has also stopped working.any suggestions would be much appreciated.thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You asked for suggestions... but did not really specify what your perceved 'problem' is.

    On all VWs the radio is SUPPOSED to stay on when you turn off the ignition. There is no connection between the ignition switch and the radio. (besides a timer)

    HOWEVER: If you leave the radio on for too long with ignition turned off, to save the battery, the radio will automatically turn off. (You can always turn the radio back on and the turn-off timer will restart)
  • here is a link to another forum which hopefully helps you out, im going to try this tomorrow.

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461

    everytime i try and lock my golf, the windows come down, i changed the battery and solved some problems, but only for 1 day, but now the windows are going crazy.
  • gandrgandr Posts: 1
    Any joy with this problem?

    I'm having exactly the same problem with my 96 gti.

    Every time i lock the door the windows come down.
  • peeshapeesha Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 vw golf. I recently went to get in to it and the door wouldn't unlock with the remote, so I opened it with the key. I turned on my lights and the lights to the radio didn't turn on, and I couldn't eject the cd in the player. I tried to lock my door from the inside.. it unlocked itself. I tried to roll down my windows... they won't roll down. I tried to open the sunroof... it won't open. I replaced one 30amp breaker, but that wasn't the problem. HELP!!!!
  • gmeadesgmeades Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 2.8 V6 4motion which died a week ago and the garage is stumped. The engine stopped and whilst it would turn over, it would not start. The EPC and engine management lights don't show on the dash.

    The ECU, along with the fuel pump and relay, fuses and other relays have all been checked, as has the immobiliser and the other obvious things. Sometimes the car will start, but after a few minutes it stops again,

    Help!
  • nazkmetnazkmet Posts: 1
    :sick: Hi How are you, I have same problem with 97 Golf How did you fix it ??? Is any suggestions ????
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    What makes you think this is an ELECTRICAL problem? Nothing in your append leads me to beleive that it is an ELECTRICAL problem.

    Any mechanic that knows anything will tell you for an engine to run you only need 3 things FUEL, SPARK, and COMPRESSION. Lets assume your engine has COMPRESSION, so you need to check the other 2 things. Sparkplug readings can help isolate the problem too. Are the tips of the sparkplugs 'wet' with fuel/ or dry as a bone? (Any deicent mechanic knows how to "read" a sparkplug too) Checking for signal at the injectors and/or ignitors is trivial and can also help isolate your problem.

    I know you say the fuel-pump was checked... did they check the FUEL PRESSURE itself? low fuel pressure may cause the symptoms you describe. (no start, start-then stall... etc.)
  • jaranajarana Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I want to change my current after-market satellite radio receiver for a new one with iPod connectivity, but I'm not sure what to do given the following situation:

    In case it helps, I don't drive more than 5,500-6,000 miles/year.

    I have a 2001 Golf (manual, no power windows) with a battery/satellite radio problem. Some 6 years ago, I had the original VW car radio (radio, tape player, no CD player) changed for an Alpine receiver (model CDA-9807) in order to get XM radio. The equipment was installed by a professional audio business that no longer exists. Everything went well for years, until about 2 years ago when the car wouldn't start in the winter mornings (in Pennsylvania). At the beginning, I would recharge or jump start the battery and the car would be just fine. But then the problem would recur more and more often until one day the car would just not start. I took the car to a reputable independent mechanic and he told me that they noticed that my Alpine radio was drawing too much juice from the battery. He replaced my battery for a better one (I forget the brand/model). This was at the end of December 2008. Now, 3 weeks ago I lose my satellite radio signal. I get the FM/AM fine, and the CD's will play fine, but the XM radio signal is gone. I called XM and they re-fed the signal to the car. According to them, it's the radio unit. They suggest that the radio is probably old and needs to be replaced.

    I take the car to the same mechanic and ask them to check on the radio. I had to leave town and when I came back the battery is dead--the car had been sitting in the lot for 1 ½ weeks. The mechanic says that the battery problem has to be related to the radio. He can't fix the satellite reception problem, but after talking to a business that specializes in car audio/video equipment, he refers me to them. Since my battery died only 6 months after my mechanic had installed it, he replaces it for a new one--a Mega-Tron MT-47. Additionally, he installs a battery disconnect so I can quickly disconnect the battery if I'm going to have the car parked for longer periods of time.

    My two-fold question is: Is it just a bad idea to install after-market radios on VW's? Some time ago, my VW dealer told me that in some cases they will not be able to diagnose car problems if the original VW radio is not installed in the car, which, by the way, I still have. Also, if this particular type of radio was causing the battery problem, either because it is broken or because of the way it draws power from the battery, can you recommend a brand/model for may particular needs (basically, XM radio, iPod connectivity, CD player)?

    Thank you very much.
  • hi guys new to forum , my golf mk4 has a problem now and wont turn on electrically ie when the indicators lights horn etc should turn on with the ingnition wont but when the key is carried on turning the car will turnover just wont do anything electrically anyone have any ideas to whats causing this?

    thanks in advance
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    So to clarify, the car will start and run, but nothing else that's electrical works? Or is it just the dashboard instrumentation that's out?

    PFFlyer@Edmunds

    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • pp2pp2 Posts: 2
    Hi All I have a Golf 2001 1600cc 5 door hatchback, This morning when I started the car the interior lights would not go out, and the message on the dash said " drivers door open" I opened and closed the drivers door and all the other door without success, I can not use the remote key fob to open and lock the doors or to set the alarm since this has happened. I know that we had tremendous wind and rain last night would this have made any difference?
    Can anyone help with a solution on how to repair the fault.

    Regards
    PP2
  • Sounds like one of the door switches is stuck or shorted out, and of course, this sends a signal to your anti-theft system. You might try a little electrical spray cleaner on them and see if that helps clean 'em up or dislodge them (if they are the movable type). Otherwise, you'll have to disconnect them one by one and test them for their "on-off" continuity with an ohm meter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    The door-switchs are burried inside the latch mecanism inside the door. As I recall, there are 3 microSwitches inside each door which send signals to the onboard computer about the "status" of locking mecanism. (locked, unlocked, doorOpen, doorClosed....etc)

    These switches are KNOWN to get flakey sometimes. (especially after a rainstorm). In this "flakey" condition, they may send signals that the computer does not understand. (door OPEN and CLOSED at same time.....-or- door LOCKED and UNLOCKED at same time)

    If you search the internet, you will find some folks have posted photos showing how to access the switches and how to clean them so the contacts are working again.

    Sometimes when my VW gets like this, I repeatedly lock/unlock the door for several minutes.... this tends to "exercize" the microSwitches and clean up the contacts. After that, they work for several months.
  • pp2pp2 Posts: 2
    Hi hope you well ,thanks for your speedy reply. I have had a quick look on the net for instructions for removal and cleaning of the contacts as you suggested. But cant find any information would you be kind enough to give me any contact addresses that I may try?

    Kind regards

    PP2 :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Here is link which shows photos accessing the doorswitches Most of the time you can simply re-solder the bad connections.

    If you have to replace a microswitch, here is link to use $3 part at Radio Shack .

    .
  • rugbytexrugbytex Posts: 1
    3 weeks ago, I took my GTI to an aftermarket mechanic, after it had issues not starting. I bought this car in March 2010, and it has 55, 000 miles on it. It will start beautifully once it is connected via jumper cables, but is having issues starting on it's own. I thought it was the battery, and had it checked three different places, which all said it checked out fine. I took it to advance auto, where I ran a diagnostic, which told me that something was pulling power from the battery. I took it to the said aftermarket mechanic, and of course it started perfectly, no problems without fail. I noted that it was on 3/4 of a tank of gas at the time.
    When I hit less than a 1/2 tank of gas, it didn't start again, but did with a jump. I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, where he stated it was the battery, and replaced it. A week later, it would not start again, and I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, who stated that he hooked up to the voltage meter, stated that it pulled the regular 3300 milliamps for 15-20 minutes after it was parked, and then intermittently had a parasitic draw of 3300 milliamps 2 -3 hours after sitting there. He suggested that I take it to the dealer.
    SO I took it to the dealer, left it over night, and it started up the next AM. They ran a diagnostic, and told me that I might have had a bad plate in the new battery. I let them keep it, with the old battery in it, in hopes that it would not start this AM. Naturally, it started like a champ. The service tech stated that he did not want to pull the old (potentially bad 1 week old battery out) until he can figure out the issue. Now it is sitting at the dealer for the weekend.
    Any thoughts? I have had both mechanics check everything I know that could be causing it not to start....including fuel pump and system, alternator, sensors, electrical system....
    Thanks for any help in advance....
  • vw golf 1.4 1999 petrol the engine management light will not show at all with fault on the car so i cant put the ecu on the car could anyone help me or tell me about why the engine managment light will not show at all even on ignition
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You are being led down a primrose path.... The mechanic who measured the parasitic draw was on the right path... but most of the other folks you worked with were full of cr@p.

    A parasitic draw on the battery CANNOT be blamed on the battery. That "dealership" may not have their best factory-trained electronics personall on your issue.

    The standard troubleshooting process should work just fine:
    1) We know there is a parasitic draw on the battery.
    2) Pull fuses or disconnect wires to isolate the problem-circuit.
    3) troubleshoot down to the specific problem component
    4) Fix it!

    Of course the above process works better if one has a good schematic digram and electronics knowledge. Any knowledgable person should have the problem-circuit isolated within 30 minutes....then consult the schematic digrams to continue from there.

    Suggestions for troubleshooting this issue.
    *) Set up ammeter to monitor the parasitic draw as you troubleshoot.
    *) Pull each the wires off of the master fusebox (located on top of the battery.)... until the specific one causing the problem is ioslated.
    *) use schematic digram to figure out where that wire leads to.
  • we have a 2003 golf, now the battery dies, no specific problem, my daughter goes out in the morning and it won't turn over.

    Several months ago the radio would turn its self on while the car was off, but the battery never died, 2 months ago we replaced the radio and cd player. 2 weeks ago she went out and the car was dead, we had it towed to the dealer, they said the battery was dead, they charged it and kept it 3 full days but could never find where anything was draining a charge from the battery. Today she goes out, the car is dead again. The dealer says there is nothing to do but try and find the drain. I have asked about some kind of switch that would keep it from draining the battery and he said it is not possible. She is suppose to leave on a 1600 mile trip with this car.

    I have not idea what to do, what to ask
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