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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    You asked about "some kind of switch that would keep it from draining the battery"

    Have you considerd a "Battery Buddy" ? ... its purpose in life is to automaticly disconnect the battery from the car if its voltage gets too low... hence preventing battery from draining completely.

    Obviously, this would to SOLVE your problem...just would be a 'band aid'.
  • I had similar problem. My radio created a short in the system and killed the battery. Replaced the head unit with a new battery. A week later the battery wasn't charging. So of course it is the alternator. Got it replaced and it dies the next day again. He looked at it again and said he couldn't find it. I took it to another mechanic and he found that the alternator was overcharging. I don't know if the alternator does this when first installed or sometimes changed but maybe the battery isn't charging because the alternator is sucking too much out of it each night.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    woahhh - Your understanding of electronics is very interesting ;-)

    I dont even know where to start here...
    You said "My radio created a short in the system and killed the battery." How is that possible... that is why they invented fuses.

    You said that you "Replaced the head unit with a new battery." Why did you you do that? Was the battery under the hood not satisfactory?

    Then you say "A week later the battery wasn't charging. So of course it is the alternator"... how do you know that this problem was due to the alternator? Most charging issues are caused by faulty voltage-regulator.

    Then you say "the alternator was overcharging." ... Perhaps you mean the "battery was getting too high a charging voltage"?

    Then you suggest "the alternator is sucking too much out of it each night" ... HUH?? an alternator sucks?

    In reality what most likely happend was the 1st "mechanic" knew very little about electronics and decide to replace the alternator to get some of your money. That is why he did not want to deal with your problem any longer (he already got some of your money)

    The, 2nd "mechanic" suggested the charging voltage was too high... this is OBVIOUSLY a problem with the voltage-regulator.... not alternator at all.

    BOTTOM LINE: If you want to fix a charging problem, use a voltmeter and electronics-skills. It takes about 10 minutes to isolate any problems. Most "mechanics" may be wonder-boy when it comes to mechanical issues... but they know very little about electronics.

    Back to the original discussion - To isolate an "electrical drain" simply monitor the milliamp draw from the battery and start pulling fuses until you isolate the problem curcuit. Then look at the electronic schematic to see what components that fuse protects.... simple as pie. (cept, I cant cook worth a cr@p)
  • Hi all hope someone can help me with this one. I have a 1995 mrk3 golf estate. Driving home one night my oil light starts to flash and i loose rev counter and speedo on my dash , then suddenly it all goes back to normal. Couple of days later the problem is back and it eventually drained the battery. Thought it was a faulty dash so i managed to get my hands on a new dash.Plugged it in and the problem was still there. Brought it to a company who specialise in car electrics and after a couple of days said two wires behind the fuse bow had rubbed together causing a short circuit, problen solved i thuoght. Car was fine for a couple of months then recently driving one day on comes the oil light and total loss of the rev counter and speedo. drove it untill the complete dash failed and the car cut out due to battery going flat. When it happens my fan heater and window wipers run slow. After recharging my battery attemped the journey home only to find that about a mile from my house when i took off from a set of traffic lights and was above 20 mph everything started to work again only to fail once i was at traffic lights. Have checked all the wires around fuse box and in the engine. This one is driving me mad Please Help.Steve
  • mrk3ermrk3er Posts: 3
    Hi all hope someone can help me with this one. I have a 1995 mrk3 golf estate. Driving home one night my oil light starts to flash and i loose rev counter and speedo on my dash , then suddenly it all goes back to normal. Couple of days later the problem is back and it eventually drained the battery. Thought it was a faulty dash so i managed to get my hands on a new dash.Plugged it in and the problem was still there. Brought it to a company who specialise in car electrics and after a couple of days said two wires behind the fuse bow had rubbed together causing a short circuit, problen solved i thuoght. Car was fine for a couple of months then recently driving one day on comes the oil light and total loss of the rev counter and speedo. drove it untill the complete dash failed and the car cut out due to battery going flat. When it happens my fan heater and window wipers run slow. After recharging my battery attemped the journey home only to find that about a mile from my house when i took off from a set of traffic lights and was above 20 mph everything started to work again only to fail once i was at traffic lights. Have checked all the wires around fuse box and in the engine. This one is driving me mad Please Help.Steve
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello All: 2006 Golf 2.0, 65k miles. OK, I have had complete faith in this rig since my son purchased it about two years ago with 36k miles. Suddenly, it's starting to remind me of my '02 Passat, and let's just say...that's NOT a good thing. Problem #1: A couple of months ago, all of the dash lights, including the instrument cluster, bonked out. No problema during the day, but it sucks having to use a small flashlight in the car at night! I checked EVERY fuse...all OK. Pulled the reostat and headlight switch out of the dash...no problem evident (there is no juice flowing IN to the rheostat...I was wondering if I could connect a line from a fuse into the line side of the reostat, which might then light the instrument lights?? Comments, anyone?). Problem #2: A few weeks ago, the interior lights won't come on when the driver door is opened, and the door SELF-LOCKS even despite the door being opened. It sounds like a driver door microswitch to me (the lights fail to come in ONLY when the driver door is opened. Has anyone had this problem, and do you know where the microswitch is located, and is it easily replaced? Problem #3: Now the airbag light has come on! This has an ominous, expensive sound to it, unless the microswitch has something to do with all of this garbage. Comments appreciated. Thanks...vwdawg
  • does the whole dash go out or just the speedo and tach? a good way to tell if the cluster has lost total power at all is to look at the trip meter. if it lost total power, it will be at zero.if just one or more systems(i.e. tach,speedo, oil only,) then meter should stay the same meaning wiring from them in a bundle or component. since your wipers/fan are running slow there is a massive sudden steady short drawing power from the battery. chances are its in a component or connection( like a pin of a plug not fully meeting) to one, not a rubbing wiring. have u replaced your battery? have any other issues like headlights acting weird? anything that you would smack to get working the right way? need more info.
  • shano20shano20 Posts: 1
    Hi i have 2001 golf 1.4 petrol. Ive been having a problem with it for a while now. Wen ur driving thr car sometimes looses power for a split second and the rev counter drops suddenly and after a few minutes of that happening the rev clock wil then drop to 0 and stay there while driving then the oil light comes on and wen u deaccelerate or brake the car will cut out. This alll usually happens when u are driving for approx 15 to 20 mins. Would be grateful if anyone coild help me as ive been to two mechanics and voildnt find the problem
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Sorry...I inadvertantly just sent a blank message. My job involves going into my 2006 Golf quite frequently, but I get very annoyed because of the feature that automatically locks all the doors as soon as the vehicle reaches 10 MPH. When I stop, get out of the car and need to open a door, they're of course all locked, so I have to either press the unlock button inside, or get the remote of of my pocket and do the same. I called a local Vdub dealer and asked if that feature could be disabled. He said "Sure, no problem, just bring it in and for around $100 we can take care of it". I told him that I have access to a VAG COM and could I just get the code so I can do it myself? He immediately went into "I'm not the one who does this procedure...have no idea" mode. I understand that they would lose a few bucks, but come on...I have owned six Vdubs and Audis...and they won't take 60 seconds to ask the tech for the code for a loyal Vdub guy? (I think my Volvo dealer WOULD do that for me). Anyway...has anyone figured out how to disable this locking feature, or have the code to do so? I think you can do it yourself with newer Vdubs, but not on a six-year-old Golf. Help! vwdawg
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    I have a 3-ring notebook kept with my VagCom with all kinds of tidbits in it. (How to manually turn on the ABS pump to bleed brakes, How to re-sychronize the fly-by-wire throttle pedal to the throttle-plate...etc)

    I am CERTAIN you are not the first person who asked this question. Have you tried searching the various VagCom forums? (or even read the VagCom instruction manual?)
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