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Jeep Commander Maintenance and Repair



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That's great and thank for the update!

    I have pictures if anyone cares to see them ...

    You can post them right here - click on the link at the bottom of the page if you need help posting pictures.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Just wanted to post an update. Took my '08 4x4 Limited Hemi into the dealer on 10/8/08 for a Chrysler Corp scheduled "final attempt to repair" service appointment after my attorney sent "Request for repurchase under Georgia Lemon Law" letter. In the week before the appointment 3 of the issues I've had since the first day I picked up the vehicle on 2/28/08 were present. The stereo sound would intermittently go out upon start-up, the sunroof would reverse itself when auto closing if any button in the vehicle were touched, and the vehicle would stall randomly. When I brought the car in I had to move it forward once and it started then immediately stalled right in front of the Service Manager and Chrysler Rep who had come to tell me "what a fine vehicle" I had purchased.

    So here it is Monday, 10/13/08. I'm still in the crappy Sebring rental as on Friday I was told they could not find a remedy for my stalling problem. I'm guessing that Chrysler Rep. will not be present when/if I can go pick up my "fine vehicle" that I've only been able to manage to put 5k miles on in 8 months because it's in the shop for weeks at a time.

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    An advertising agency would like to speak with satisfied Jeep Commander drivers. If you own or regularly drive one of these vehicles, please respond to with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, October 31st.

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  • I guess that wouldn't be me.
  • It surely wouldn't be me either - LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Cruz63Cruz63 Posts: 2
    I am having similar problems. When climbing hills, the vehicle starts to jerk around 40 mph. Also when going downhill, utilizing the manual downshifting does not seem to hold the vehicle back.

    Did replacing the transmission fix your problems? Thanks!
  • Is anyone having a problem with the commander hesitating at low RPMs which alomst feels like it's stuck between gears and the engine doesn't know whether to down shift. You can hear what appears to be engine noise when this happens and also feel vibration. The noise sounds liuke the engine is sucking air or not getting the right air / gas mix. I do not have a check engine light on or any other sgnal telling me something is not right. Any help would greatly be appreciated!
  • You have left out lots of information...year, which engine (and which trans); 4x4 or 4x2, how many miles, cold weather, snow, etc.

    However, assuming it's a 3.7 L like mine (which is a 2006), you might be describing the "feature" which limits the slippping of one or more tires, by 1) automatically applying the brake to the slipping wheel(s) and 2) lowering engine RPM. The noise you are hearing may be the brakes being applied. The engine slowing would make no noise, but it would mean that your foot is not controlling the is being computer controlled. This is supposed to avoid making you spin out of control on wet roads, snow or ice. OR...

    You could be describing a cold engine/trans symptom that I have encountered only once, when it was -6 in Chicago last month and the engine/trans had not warmed up for more than a few minutes. This I indeed attributed to the possibility of foul gasoline and I put a bottle of Fuel Injection Cleaner in the tank. I have not encountered the problem since and it has been darn cold.

    So far I really like my Jeep. It is very sure footed in the snow. Much more so than my old Suburban.

  • Sorry for the missing info! 3.7 4x4 2006. Thanks for the suggestions, but this is not traction control or antilocking brake symptoms. This has been happening for a while now....prior to any snow or foul weather. I am able to reproduce the problem every time I drive at 1.75 rpms and ask the car to down shift from 5 gear to 4th or 4th to 3rd. The transmission seems to get stuck for a few seconds which causes slight bucking and vibration. I did try some fuel additives to rule out clogged fuel injectors or bad gas. I've given up and will take it back to the dealer tomorrow. I will let you know what they find.
  • i know you posted this message a long time ago, i am just curious if you remember what they replaced to get the airbag light to stop coming on intermittenly. I am having problems with mine and the dealership cant figure out what is wrong. Thanks!
  • My daughter bought a 2006 Commander and is stationed in Montana. She tells me that the front fan operation for the heat is not working but the rear is operating fine. Can you please tell me what direction to send her in finding what I hope is either a fuse or relay problem.
  • I have the same problem on a 4.7L 2006 Commander. The sudden downshift seems to occur at the shift points, instead of shifting into the higher gear it shifts into the lower gear. At first the problem happened after driving about 60 miles at 75-85 mph, usually during wet weather or wet pavement with road-spray. One of the engine codes indicated an electrical short and another a speed detection problem (or something like that in the wheel sensor). The dealer replaced the transmission computer and transmission fluid all-around. The problem re-occured during the next wet weather period. Now it seems to occur randomly, even on short trips where speed never exceeds 50 mph.

    The sudden downshifts cause passengers to nearly hit the windshield, luckily no ones ever been tailgating me and I haven't been taking a turn on wet pavement or in icy conditions - the down shift would definitely cause a loss of control, loss of traction, and an accident.

    Shortly after the first few downshifts, I started using the slap-shift to manually control the gear settings which stopped the sudden downshifts while in manual mode. Since then I've learned that leaving the slap-shift in 4th works fine and the trans goes through all the gears, although at slightly different shift points.

    I can normally sense the problem about to happen when in Drive - the jeep seems to miss a shift point and the rpms increase as it struggles to make the up-shift. At this point I slap shift into 4th and leave it there - otherwise there would be a sudden downshift.

    The dealer is useless, say they can't find a problem, and say their diagnosis is confirmed by their sending a car-hop out to drive the jeep for 15 miles with nothing happening.

    Anyone know the fix - please post.

  • ctomctom Posts: 11
    I have a new '08 Commander and was hoping for some guidance on some way to lock the spare tire. There has been a rash of thefts of spares (I live in Chicago) - they cut the cable that holds the tire up. Any help is appreciated...
  • Additional info:

    First time this happened the check engine light came on with the codes:

    P0700 (Chrysler Transmission Control System fault - transaxle control module fault) OBDII - turn on check engine light

    P0734 OBDII - the PCM has detected an incorrect gear ratio in 4th gear

    P0735 OBDII - the PCM has detected an incorrect gear ration in 5th gear

    Dealer replaced the transmission solenoid (can't find receipt to see exactly what they said)

    Check engine light hasn't come on since, but the Tire Pressure indicator blinks occaisionally indicating a fault in the tire pressure sensor system (not solid indicating an incorrect tire pressure).

    Problem still occurs.
  • pjl6pjl6 Posts: 1
    I am having a simialr problem already discussed and I am ready to trade the vehicle in. I have a 2006 3.7L 4X4 that has a harmonic vibration at 40 mph to the point you would think you are on a rumble strip on the side of the road. It doesn't only occur there, but at 70 mph on the highway as well. It seems like it wants to downshift, but can't. I've had it in the dealer several times and the last time I was there they told me to blame it on the Government ! Their reasoning was the gas mileage restrictions the government has placed on the industry and once it gets into the overdrive gear it doesn't come out until it absolutely needs to. They updated the PCM with the latest shift points, but still no help. I've had the valve body replaced as well as the torque converter. Still has the same issue. Someone help before I loose my shirt and give up on this one.
  • jasonphjasonph Posts: 1
    Hi Jim,
    I had the same problem with my 06 4.7 4x4. The transmission started that crazy downshifting and was at the dealership 17 times for various repairs on that problem. Almost every part regarding the transmission was replaced but never the transmission it's self. The down shifting got so bad that the rear axle had to be rebuilt from being jerked around so hard and one down shift locked up a rear tire for a second and burned a complete flat spot in it. Just shortly after having to replace the rear tires (17,000 miles on my own dime), the jeep downshifted while on cruise control at 70 mph and ruined another tire. Unfortunately the Jeep's problems came to a sudden end one night while driving home. The transmission started to bind up, shift violently and then seemed to drop into neutral. I pulled off the road due to the complete loss of power and when I got out of the jeep I heard popping and crackling and then realized that the Jeep was catching on fire. Fire and rescue arrived within 6 minutes and the Jeep had already burned to the ground on the side of the road. After 1 year of investigations and insurance claims, the Jeep was concluded to have burned due to transmission fluid blowing onto the exhaust. In the end it was the insurance company and myself that ended up losing on that vehicle due to an incorrectly diagnosed and not repaired warranty problem.

  • I can not believe this story. I have the same car same engine and now have been car less for about 2 months. My transmission blew right before it caught fire, My warranty is up and they will not help me at all. Im getting a lawyer I guess. I never recieved any recall information either. Great post! Thanks
  • Hi Jason,

    That's some bad news, but thanks for the info. Once had a Celica throw a rod through the engine block at 60 mph - didn't think I was going to be able to pull off the road before being engulfed in flames - luckily it was just smoke from the oil on the engine, no fire.

    The Jeep is currently in the shop having the transmission rebuilt (Jasper rebuilt installed).

    Took the Jeep to a local repair shop that I've heard good things about. Actually took it to them for an oil change and they gave me more diagnosis information on the trans than the dealer ever did. The dealer said nothing was wrong. The new mechanic hooked it up to his computer and could see where the downshifts were happening in the history log.

    The dealer solution when I first reported this was to replace:
    RS10 - Rear Pinion Oil Seal $175 (not related to trans)
    EN18 - Front Pinion Oil Seal $150 (not related to trans)
    TR03 - Transmission Cooler lines $275
    TR001 - Transmission Solenoid Pack $746
    MA23 - Front Differential Fluid - $128
    MA24 - Rear Differential Fluid - $128
    MA25 - Transfer Case Fluid - $105

    Total - about $1,700

    That dealer is now a Hundyi (sp) dealer - saw it on the way to the new mechnanic.

    The new diagnosis is that 3rd gear was slipping, causing the computer to drop into second gear.

    I'll let you know how the Jasper trans works at $3,000.

    - Jim
  • Hi All,

    Thought I'd get a head start on my next problem.

    I'm going to need to replace the rear rotors on my '06 4.7L 4WD Commander with about 85K miles. I've already replaced the rear pads at every 40K miles (drivers inboard pad was just about worn to the metal, but the outboard pad still had about 25K left on it). The front pads were replaced at about 75K with another 5-10K to go.

    My problem is the rear-rotor is completely frozen to the hub. It also has a parking brake drum in the middle of the rotor (who designed this????). Couldn't remove this in the Autozone parking lot, even after this gorgeous woman (Stephanie) with a Jeep happend by and showed me how to remove the oval seal on the inboard side of the drum and use a screwdriver/stardriver to release the parking shoes (haven't worked on brake drums in years). Anyway, the rotor was still frozen. I've tried the back of a large one-bladed axe and an acetylene torch, but couldn't free the rotor.

    I've been looking for large 3 or 4 claw pullers, but can't find any that looks suitable for under $250. Might try and make something with a few large C-Clamps and some steel bars as a last resort.

    Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this rotor/parking drum off?


    P.S. I love my Jeep but here are my past problems:

    Roof Rack installed with blades backwards from dealer - very loud noise at 60+ mph. Easy Fix, turn the roof rack blades around.

    Headlights blind drivers, cause them to high-beam me. Factory problem. Used a star driver to lower the low-beams to below the level of the car trunk in front of me. Easy Fix.

    Trans slips in third, drop-shifts into second when it should up-shift into 4th, violent deceleration, trans needs replacement. $3000 (Jasper Remanufactured), plus $1,700 Dealership mis-diagnosis and unnecessary repairs.

    Rear Rotor/Drum frozen on hub.
  • sameyesameye Posts: 1
    Greetings Mopar lovers,

    I'm on my third Commander. My 2006 did not have water problems, but my wife's '07 did. I turned the '06 in when the lease expired, and purchased a used '07 with 20+k miles. The problem now with both the '07s is that after a heavy rain, the water pools/collects in the door wells and splashes out when you open the door. No consistent pattern. With my wife's car, it is the driver side front door. With mine, it is the passenger side front door. Dealer keeps talking about drains getting plugged, but can't seek to fix it.

    Thoughts - similar problems?

    I would appreciate any insight. I love the cars, but if I wanted a footwash, I would probably seek a different method.

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