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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • chevyman63,

    The PCV on that model is in a weird place. While standing in front of the car lean over and look down in between the intake tubes. It is actually in the top of the intake, but because of the location, it is hard to see. It should be at the other end of the tube coming from the valve cover.
  • The PCV on my 88 Accord (carb model) is located below the bracket coming from the air cleaner enclosure to the valve cover. Look for an upside down U shaped hose. The PCV is on one end of the U.

    Mrbill
  • Yo Honda Bro, Whats the secret to 40mpg out of an Accord? I have a carburated 89 that has been thru tuneup,timing belt,radiator flush, new cv joint,seafoam thru whole system and syntetic 10-30 oil. I have yet to break the 28mpg any advice would be appreciated. 28mpg ain't bad but 40mpg sounds much better. Thanks in advance!
  • I no longer have the car, but when I did mine was a 5 speed. I did nothing special to mine to get the 40mpg out of it other than keeping the rpm under 3000 rpm between shifts and keeping the car under 70mph on the hwy. If yours is only getting 28mpg I am guessing that it's an automatic. I had an automatic before the 5 speed and I was averaging 35 to 37 mpg out of it. I think it may be the way you drive it. Not trying to tell you how to drive, but as I was growing up my dad always preached that jackrabbit starts and high rpm's between shifts lowers the gas mileage. I hope that the oil you put in the car is only part synthetic. If the engine is not new, you could knock the main bearings out of the engine using totally synthetic oil. I would dump the oil and change back to regular motor oil. I have for years and will continue to use 10w40 valvoline in everything I own. I had a 67 AMC Rambler when I was a teen and I drove it very hard as most teens do. I was using 30hd Pennzoil. I could not keep oil in that engine to save my life. The car only had 65,000 miles on it. I was talking to a mechanic about it at the shop I was working in and he said the next time I changed the oil to switch off and put Valvoline in. I did and the car stopped using any oil. I was sold on Valvoline products and will never use anything else. Sears Spectrum motor oil is made by Valvoline, if you want to save a buck or two on your oil changes. I hope this little bit of info helps.
  • I had same trouble and a new window motor did not help! You can split the control box open and inside is a small circut board that has a couple of relays on it. If you study the solder joints under a magnefing glass you might find a joint that looks a little discolored (not shine but kinda flat color). Use a soldering iron to heat pin to that joint and apply some new solder. I pulled new motor out and installed old one back in and walaaa no more troubles
  • Thanks for the comeback wanger1, Yes this is an automatic with only about 55k on it. I try not to drive it very hard but don't like getting run over in the city. it sounds like the 2.0L is not known for being fast however I think I still have a smaller vacume leak somewhere in those miles of lines. My 89 owner manual says 10-30w straight or syntectic oil. I am using a product Royal purple and I can tell a big difference in the engine coasting or decellerating. Was told by the Napa (now car quest) engine gruru thats its tops in its line. As you tell from my email name I am still into old american iron. Have been driving a 1963 Impala since 1980 that now runs like a raped ape but the gas prices were killing me. Sorry to here you gave up your Honda cuz from what I've been hearing they are a great car for what they were designed for. Like you my friend I run the valvoline racing 10-40w in the chevy but it seems the newer motors are designed with the syntectic oil in mind. You seem pretty smart on these rice burners where I am just trying to figure out sideways 4 clys. open to any and all good advice from those who have already been down this road. Thanks and stay in touch!
  • me8eme8e Posts: 7
    I believe that refers to the ...MAIN/Fuel relay....it's actually 2 relays in one module. When you turn the key "on" the Main relay applies 12 volts to the computer ....then the computer applies the voltage to energize the FL (fuell pump) relay.
  • rick105rick105 Posts: 2
    my 86 accord started idling rough,running out of gas on a hill,have to pump pedal to keep it going.also if you hold it to the floor on highway goes to 4-5 grand & starts cutting out like a rev limiter. i seen on here it could be coil not sending enough juice to the fuel pump.any other ideas? also does anyone know what the vacuum diaphram on drivers side of carb. controls? thanks :sick:
  • thomasonthomason Posts: 3
    we are having about the same problem with 88 honda accord, runs very rough, cant set idle carberator or timing to make it run smooth with out shutting off at stop signs. Have to put in nuetral to keep it from dying. If everything is set to run half way smooth the next time it is started or the next day it will be right back to not running good at all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,254
    First two things to do for both these cars is to check for vacuum leaks everywhere, and to do a simple tune up.

    japanese carburetors are very difficult to rebuild and you don't want to go in there unless you really have to.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Hi everyone,

    I own an '88 LXI hatchback with 217K miles. Needless to say its had many parts replaced over the last 20 years, but it has the original O2 sensors. I'm always reading how O2 sensors should be periodically changed, especially from places that sell them! So, I get no check engine light, I get good gas mileage, as high as 37MPG, and the car runs great and passes emissions. I'm guessing those little buggers would be a PITA to come out after all this time.

    My question is are their others who have never changed their O2 sensors? Should I relax about not fixing what's not broken?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,254
    Unless you've noticed a conspicuous drop in fuel mileage, no, I wouldn't touch 'em.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • i have a 89 accord. carb. ive been having the same problem with the idle for almost 2 years now. its a 5 speed so im able to drive as you said. abit differently. i was wondering if anyone has come up with any solutions for this problem. i have a mechanic that i trust and we are trying to research and tackle this problem. we are thinking its somewhere in the carb. maybe a air intake valve somewhere in there? Id love any kind of feed back. im ready to fix this problem for good. :confuse:
  • bgortzbgortz Posts: 1
    stopped while running in driveway. was hot at time. now no spark. tried coil, cap, points check. nothing works. getting current to coil and no spark. is there some kind of reset for the engine?
  • if its not your clutch slipping. it come most def. be your idle screw. when i first got my 89. it popped out one day im guessing and it only acted up every once and awhile. check it. simple little thing
  • adams135adams135 Posts: 3
    I have a 1989 Honda Accord Ex with an intermittent cooling problem.

    Gage .. generally stays the halfway mark but out of the blue starts climbing to HOT .. may be hot foe 15 seconds then back down below the halfway mark on the temp gage .. then go back up .. after a while goes up and stays up at HOT.

    Fan runs when AC is on (but car still runs hot even when fans are on)… does not run otherwise.

    When HOT and I cut the car off and open hood even though the fans aren’t running I can hear a humming coming from back of engine close to firewall.

    Just paid $187 to get fixed .. they replaced sensor and thermostat .. worked great for one day then started doing the HOT bit again.

    ??????? HELP !!!!!!!!

    Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I was thinking thermostat, myself, but they replaced it.

    Just a tip - when the car IS running hot, try rolling the windows down and running the heater. It'll pull heat out of the heater core of the engine and help it cool off. I've had to do this when my radiator fan quit working in my '96 Accord. It kept me from the shoulder since it stayed in the safe zone long enough for me to get to the dealer.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Gauge jumping around like that, is usually indicative of air in the cooling system/engine block. The air can get in there in one of two ways. If you open up the system to change the coolant and thermostat, or if you have a head gasket blown.

    With a blown headgasket, the exhaust gas is able to be pushed pass the gasket and into the coolant fluid. This air and pressure causes the waterpump to not be able to circulate the fluid very well, and the exhaust gases are very not so you also overheat. Hope you don't have this problem.

    If you just have air in the system from draining and filling, most of the time it will clear itself with some heating and cooling cycles. Engine heats up, pressure builds up, it blows the air (at the highest point) past the rad cap and into the overflow tank. When it cools, it draws coolant back in to refill.

    Sometimes you may also have to purge the engine block air, some vehicles have bleeder screws near the thermostat.
  • trantotranto Posts: 5
    Had the same thing Rick. I'm pretty sure you'll find that the vacuum diaphram you mentioned, has failed, and in my car an87 2l carb EX, this is the choke regulator. In my case, what was happening was that the car gradually flooded itself, and eventually cut out, usually at almost the same distance from home.Try wiring open the butterfly valve in the carby a little,the car will run so much better and be more fuel efficient. Down side, the car will be a [non-permissible content removed] to start in the morning, and you should run it for at least 3 minutes before setting off.I can't find a replacement part in my part of the world, so any help greatly appreciated. Also the diaphram(plastic) has gone on the distributor and i cant find a replacement for that either. Help!- please.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Try the parts bin:
    http://www.thepartsbin.com/

    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • Guys … I want to thank you for taking the time to give me your thoughts and suggestions. Want you to know I really appreciate all of them.

    Thegraduate .. will remember that tip … I cut the AC on so the fans would work and that didn’t seem to help .. will try the heat next time (although I am afraid to get too fat from home with it now).

    Chucko3 … DO’t think it is the Rad Cap since I can feel pressure on the rad hose (a trick I learned years ago to keep from getting scalded by opening a Rad that was hot and had pressure on it.

    Kiawah ….. I can’t tell you how much I hope you’ve right (i.e no money to speak of ). Will have to see.

    I suspect the fans don’t come on because it is not really as hot as the gauge states ..

    On another thread someone mentioned headlights … they had one where the gauge did that when the headlights were on (wiring harness?) Since I use them during the day (I like people to see me) this is a slim … remote .. possibility.

    Haven’t driven the car since I entered my plea for help. Will have to try tomorrow.

    Again … thanks for all your suggestions.
  • Hi, everyone. I need to change my 1987DX, 2.0L headgasket (168K miles). I've done this job on older American cars/trucks lots of times, but I couldn't even change the fuel filter on the 1994 Honda (just could'nt get a wrench on it!). I've been scared of newer cars ever since. White smoke pours out the exhaust pipe, and I use a radiator of coolant for every tank of gas...pretty sure I need a head gasket. Can the intake manifold be left attached to the head? Is the timing gear keyed to the shaft, etc? Just how awful is this job? Any guidance will be much appreciated. Thanks
  • I own a 1988 accord dx. It has around 200,000 miles, but a good portion of them are tow miles. On my way home from work, doing about 75mph, it just died. No warning, no noise, just died. It sat on the side of the road until that evening when i towed it on a car dolly about 15 miles. When i stopped, i noticed smoke coming from the hood of the car. The coil had melted a hole in itself from the inside out. The key was on Acc, so the flashers would work but thats it. I replaced the coil, car started right up and ran fine for about 40 miles then Just died again. It still turns over fine, just wont start. Any help please!!
  • Did you check to see you still have spark in case the new coil was defective?

    Mrbill
  • 0chuck0chuck Posts: 2
    Punching the gas pedal revs up the engine, then the idle goes low and oscilates widely, but below higher rate. Once I go again I have to repeat the procedure. Causing excessive brake wear, and results in poor gas milage.
  • 0chuck0chuck Posts: 2
    Problem solved. The idle adjustment screw was completely loose! Cleaned with carb cleaner and screwed it all the way in. Runs like a top again. :)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Glad you solved it!! Thanks for letting us know the solution.
  • Hi,
    I have a 1988 honda accord lxi, 2.0 litter, 5 manual speed. One day my after driving it to the store and back I realized that my rpm was staying at around 2 even when I was stopping and not pressing on the gas (but the engine sounded like I'm stepping on the gas). After a couple of days of driving white smoke started to come out of the exhaust. The smoke is coming after I start driving for a while, not when I start the car, especially on third gear. It happens often when I'm stuck in traffic and the car is hot. It lasts for a while but after driving it at a higher speed it goes away. The smoke smells pretty bad and it's very choky. Can anyone tell me what could be the problem? And how much it would cost to fix? Thank you very much.
  • i have a 88 honda accord, carbeurated, automatic. once and a while when i turn the key (the starter has just been replaced) the lights on the dash light up, but nothing else happens. every other time i turn it over it fires up like a new car. when it wont start, i shake the car a little, and then it usually fires up. once it didnt no matter what i did, and i had it towed to the local shop, then it started for them every time, no matter what they did. could it be a loose wire?
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