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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

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  • Does anyone know how to pull codes from these 89 accord Lx-i fuel injected models and where the terminals are to do so??? i think it's OBD-1, or am i wrong on that??can't you ground a few terminals with OBD-1 and use the flashes to determine the code?? whether you can or not, i cannot even find the test port to pull codes and looked everywhere?? my accord has 230,000 miles but runs fine mostly. only after it warms up, the check engine light comes on. The temp. gauge ALWAYS runs in the middle constantly when it's warmed up, NEVER fluctuates unless it's turned off or warming up. The other day on the temp gauge it was running almost down to a quarter steadily after it warmed up, i left it running and went in the store and when i came out and went to leave it died and wouldn't crank. 2 days later i went back to check it and it crunk up and drove home fine as usual, but the check engine light still comes on ONLY after it warms up or after it's been driven for 5 minutes. If i turn it off and turn the switch off, on, off, on, then crank it again, the engine light usually won't come on at all only during that driving session.
    Any help is greatly appreciated as this is my only reliable transportation at the time.
  • what could it mean if the check engine light comes on only when the car is warm, but it still runs and shifts fine, dies and over cools occasionally, but after a while, will crank up and run fine again? another sensor maybe or something mechanical?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You can have the check-engine code read at an auto parts chain like Auto Zone for free, usually. That's what I did in my '96 Accord.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,003
    You might find a manual HERE to give you the instructions for counting the codes.

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  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Alright...picked up new fuel filter and no I wasn't in the accord or I would had them check the codes out. The only change is its quicker on the throttle until it decides to strande ur ***..! again...lol......I guess the idle problem fix itself or the filter had something to do with it.....Fuel pump sounds fine..acts like it runs out of gas and spits and sputters when it cranks back up then it clears out. #422 explains what i've done.... sktex
  • Ok well sorry that didnt work out for you. There are too many possibilties to be guessing at, so since the cheapest option didn't work out it is time for you to do some diag. Anyway you can put on a fuel guage and see if you loose fuel pressure when it dies out?
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Well I think your right..and thats what I'll start on in a couple of days I'm gonna take a break!!...Hey thanks again auburn6..
  • Another thing I thought of today was for you to take off the air tube to the throttle body and try running it without it.. Since you said this car was sitting for a while I was thinking maybe a critter crawled up in there and made a home that is restricting air flow.
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Lol......No critters...auburn6..I'm gonna check fuel pressure and rule out fuel pump. My box under drivers seat blinked 6 times pause 6 more...checked it out and itwas temp sensor problem?? Might have something to do with?? Ive been reading about igniter problems and symptoms are th same...cool down to restart...it just dies a block away frome your house....and it will fireup after you walk back home for help. still gonna check fuel pressure and go from there. The igniter symptoms got worse after I got new filter...
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Fuel pressure is ok... the regulator is ok.....has to be the igniter...
  • Well doesn't have to be but can be I guess. Did you drive it and watch the fuel pressure as the car lost power? The same goes for did you drive it with the air intake hose off and did it still die out? I remember you said that you would idle all day but once you started down the street it would stop running but that it would start back up. After how long did it take before it would start up?

    Sorry for all the questions just trying to see if your headed in the right direction. After cars sit for a while things tend to freeze up such as vacuum advances, fuel injectors, idle air control valves and fuel can even go bad.
    If the fuel pressure was checked during power loss then I would check to see if it has spark after power down if there is enough time to do so.
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    I checked the fuel pressure while it was running and was 33psi/36psi and took vacuum hose off regulator after it died and it started to rise 40psi/41psi. The answer to your ?? is no..seems everything has changed since the new fuel filter...idles rough real rough now smokes smell fuel. checked a couple of plugs out yesterday right after it died and the plugs was bone dry. my ECU still blinks 6x pause 6x.. like to find a little more before buy anything cant afford real mechanic right now...... ????????????? if I'm not headed in the right direction let me know. Does the ECU tell u 1 problem at a time? ........Thanks for your replys
  • The ECU can tell you more than one code at a time and the code 6 if I remember correctly is a engine coolant temp sensor to the ECU. 2 pin connector sensor usually located in or near the thermostat housing or the head. Not the single pin in the head under distributor area that is the temp gauge sensor. Also can get confused with the radiator coolant temp sensor so you may want to check a book or the internet for photos to make sure you have the correct one. Temp sensors can create issues I have known one to cause a car to stall when coming to a stop but not while driving. Also would cause resart problems if ECU is getting the wrong signal, thinks its cold when its hot or hot when cold as the ECU controls fuel delivery its input.

    I cant think of a reason why the car seems worse after the fuel filter replacement that just doesn't make much sense. The plugs being dry is good but still nice to know if spark is available when car dies. Also makes me wonder about the injectors being clogged allowing enough fuel at idle but not off idle.

    Just making sure of the complaint once again the car originally was idling great but once driving down the road would die? Or was it when coming to a stop it would die? Sorry if I am not understanding something but read back and not for sure..

    The pcv valve, vacuum leak, tight valves, temp sensor and or the idle air control valve could be whats currently happening but there are test available for those components if you can get a hold of a service manual.
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Your understood when you read back...idling great...would die moving...now cant get it out of shop or down the driveway..since new filter. I was checking regulator one more time..took off return line and replaced it with longer one so I could see fuel come out...I couldn't believe it.....fuel was cloudy and had a white tint to it..I just thought I blew out those lines!!! No wonder it spits and sputters and barely fires.....Im gonna start my Superbowl party tonight...let ya know something next week...
  • cool glad to see you have a direction to go in....enjoy your party and the game should be a great game
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    If your still out there, the Honda is running great. I took the tank off and cleaned it out again and put a liner in it and a new fuel filter., and fresh gas and it fired right up. next will be the temp sensor. thanks for the help....later
  • auburn6auburn6 Posts: 17
    cool glad everything worked out
  • gracey1gracey1 Posts: 1
    My car it starts then when im driving my car will just shut off.then i wait 5 min and then it starts.Can somebody please tell me what it might be.Please!!!!!!!!!!!
  • sktexsktex Posts: 10
    Hey gracey1 it could be fuel problems or electrical......if you read some of mine post you seen it was fuel. Ask auburn6 for some help he pointing me in the right direction.Hope it works out for ya'
  • nygizzlenygizzle Posts: 2
    Hi guys, I recently bought a 1989 honda accord lxi and now it doesn't start. I already replaced, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and the coil pack and it still doesn't start. Does this mean I need to replace the distributor? And is the ignition module part of the distributor, or is it a separate part? Thank you
  • dextindextin Posts: 7
    edited June 2010
    I have been hearing a grinding sound coming from my engine lately, and i was looking under the hood to see if i could find the problem, i found a wheel that was sticking and as far as i can tell it is the A/C compressor, but im not 100%. I have searched for a diagram online, and have not been able to find one that labels it. It has a belt that connects to what i think is the crankshaft pulley which is connected with a belt to the alternator. my car is a 1997 Honda Accord ex V6 with a C27A4 2.7 L engine. if anyone has any advice on how to trouble shoot, or who can find a diagram that shows the lable of the A/C compressor i would appreciate it a lot. also i dont know if the two have anything in common, but a little before the noise began it started leaking oil, i changed the oil, replaced the oil filter, and it still leaks oil.

    any help is much appreciated
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Do a search on google images to see what a compressor looks like. Sometimes they post a wiring diagram as well as one that is disassembled.
    http://images.google.com/
    Corkscrew
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,003
    Also if corkscrews excellent suggestion doesn't work, you can find the various diagrams HERE

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  • dextindextin Posts: 7
    Thanks Mr Shiftright and Corkscrew that helped alot, i am now 100% sure that it is the A/C compressor. i looked it up some more and looked closer at the compressor and it looks like the clutch to the compressor has locked up so it wont spin, the belt was just spinning around the locked up pulley. With those diagrams i could see that luckily the belt is only for the compressor and not linked directly to the alternator like other models, because i did not like the idea of having a belt slipping on the pulley making horrible smells, and the possibility of it then breaking and knocking into other belts, i cut the belt off. so now all the noises have stopped along with the smells. i talked to some shops and they say its about $700 bucks just for the new compressor kit, plus i would have to recharge, and replace other things that come along with replacing the compressor, so after all that plus labor, everyone quoted me around $1,100. they also suggested i try a junk yard to find a compressor, but i still don't have the money for that right now. so i guess this will be a hot summer for now. thanks for everyone who replied, i appreciate you taking time from your day to help me. and if anyone has any other suggestions on fixing it i would love to hear what you think.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,003
    You could try for a used compressor but if your old compressor actually seized up (you can't turn it by hand and the belt couldn't turn it) then this may not be enoug---why? Because when a compressor seizes, it often (not always but often) sends metal debris throughout the AC system, requiring that many other components be either cleaned or replaced. If you put in a used compressor and don't get all the old debris out, the second compressor will probably seize up too, soon enough.

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  • I've recently picked up a 89 accord and was told about the "issue" it has, but im not 100% sure they were honest about its defects. The engine itself seems to run fine and the electrical works, but it wont shift into gear and i was told this is because of a burnt out diode. I would like to know if anyone has any experience with this type of issue and how to go about fixing it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,003
    You mean you can't move the gear lever or you mean you can move the lever into drive but nothing happens?

    If the former, you may have a simple problem of a bad brake light switch which will not release the gearshift "neutral safety" system. You can release the lever by inserting a screwdriver into a slot that should be nearby the lever.

    If you mean the latter, your transmission is shifted hydraulically, not electronically, so you either have a badly adjusted or broken shift cable, no fluid in the transmission, or a bad transmission.

    Anytime someone says "all it needs is a simple ____" one has to wonder why they never did it prior to sale.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dextindextin Posts: 7
    I recently bought a 1997 Accord ex, and stupid me i didn't test the horn before i bought it. i guess its just something you don't think of being a problem. Anyway, after getting it i was driving it to get safety and emissions when a person cut me off and almost clipped the front of my car, when i pushed the horn to let them know i was there because i couldn't swerve no sound came out. it still passed safety but i would like to know if there is a way to test if the horn is bad, or if i need to replace it. I have done some research but i need a diagram of the horn and where to find it or something, i have made sure all the fuzzes are good, i have checked like 5 times. any advice is wonderfully appreciated, thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    If you do end-up needing to have the horn replaced, its a relatively easy fix; fairly inexpensive too. I'm no mechanic, so I'm sorry I can't answer your direct question. :)
  • dextindextin Posts: 7
    So you do think that i could do it myself? Im pretty handy with a wrench, haha, but i have a brother and brother in law who love to help with any auto repair, so i just need to know how about diagnosing the problem and first off where to find the dang horn.
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