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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    Concerning the distributor. If you will go to (thepartsbin.com) they carry the distributor for $161.00 to $213.00 as oposed to $500.00 or was that price including installation? You might also try ebay and (thatpartsgiant.com). If it is a part I don't have to have right away, I buy 90% of my parts on line. For the master key, I would suggest going to Honda. They should be able to get one from their warehouse or direct from Japan. If it is just the ignition itself, try (thepartsbin). I know they carry them and you might come out cheaper just replacing the whole switch. I hope this info helps.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    another option for some things: a pull-it yard.
  • Please tell me where I can find a wiring diagram for the stereo in my 89' Accord DX.
    The previous owner cut out the aftermarket stereo and I don't khow which wires are for what.

    Thank You!

    Apxracer
  • need to know what wires in the Honda go where...the wires are cut and hanging out of my console. In order to wire up a new stereo I need to know the color codes for the speakers, acc/on, etc....

    Thank You!

    Apxracer
  • www.installdr.com

    an hour online and I found this free site.

    -apxracer
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    If you are installing a factory style sterio, the wire colors should match up. If it is a aftermarket sterio, you might try following the wires and see which ones go to the speakers and which ones go to the dash wiring. Then use your diagram for the aftermarket and match up the wires one at a time until you get them right. There should be no more than 8 speaker wires and 2 to 4 power wires, so as far as hooking up the radio, you will have a max of 16 combinations to deal with. You might blow a couple of fuses in the process, but it shouldn't be that hard. Good luck.
  • I have a 89 Accord EXI (2.0L fuel injected) that seems to be running on two cylinders. It was running strong until a drive the other day on the highway between shifts it lost power.
    I pulled each spark plug boot off individually to confirm spark and noticed that when I pulled the left most boots (driver's side) there is no difference in the engine. It is however evident when the right side is pulled as the car almost stalls.

    I also measured the fuel injector resistance and it was 1.7ohms which is within spec. Can it be the ECU and where is this located? Also the manual said to check the resistance of the injector resistor terminal which I also cannot seem to locate...it should be a connector harness of 5 pins that is located around the strut tower of the left fender apron???

    The plug appears to be slightly fouled but not overly wet...so where do I go from here. I was thinking about testing the injectors by swapping them to the working cylinders but I have strong feeling that it could be the ECU or some other electrical sensor...

    Thanks in advance,
    Peter
  • Dose anyone have a diagram of the vacume lines to 1989 accord? It would be a big help as it seems I have no distributor advance? Any other thoughts then vacume?
  • I have a similar problem,have you pressure tested the diaphram on your distributor If as i suspect this is the problem,and you have a metal housing it can be repaired, however if you have a plastic housing the diaphram can not be accessed and you're up for a new distributor. If you are also getting poor mileage this is the likely culprit.
  • Thanks tranto for the reply!!! That was a good thought but in my case it turned out that my main trouble was a cracked vacume hose from the valve cover to the pcv filter box at aircleaner. (I still can't find the pcv valve.. from what I've been seeing it is in line to a vacume canister somewhere under hood?) Soooooo after finding crack on bottom of hose I pulled the 2 vac lines to distributer and drew on them they seemed to hold pressure. Then with those lines plugged I put a timing light on the car and couldn't find the mark until I lossen distributer and went way back conterclockwise. Did cracked hose cause this to be that off........ I don't think so, I belive last owner tried setting timing without pluging distributer vac lines. The putt putt ( my name for her) is much better with power but I wonder about the rest of the miles of vacume lines. Looks like different color codes on some of the lines and a pile of little plastic tees and such. have you ever heard of a kit to go thru these mess?
  • chevyman63,

    The PCV on that model is in a weird place. While standing in front of the car lean over and look down in between the intake tubes. It is actually in the top of the intake, but because of the location, it is hard to see. It should be at the other end of the tube coming from the valve cover.
  • The PCV on my 88 Accord (carb model) is located below the bracket coming from the air cleaner enclosure to the valve cover. Look for an upside down U shaped hose. The PCV is on one end of the U.

    Mrbill
  • Yo Honda Bro, Whats the secret to 40mpg out of an Accord? I have a carburated 89 that has been thru tuneup,timing belt,radiator flush, new cv joint,seafoam thru whole system and syntetic 10-30 oil. I have yet to break the 28mpg any advice would be appreciated. 28mpg ain't bad but 40mpg sounds much better. Thanks in advance!
  • I no longer have the car, but when I did mine was a 5 speed. I did nothing special to mine to get the 40mpg out of it other than keeping the rpm under 3000 rpm between shifts and keeping the car under 70mph on the hwy. If yours is only getting 28mpg I am guessing that it's an automatic. I had an automatic before the 5 speed and I was averaging 35 to 37 mpg out of it. I think it may be the way you drive it. Not trying to tell you how to drive, but as I was growing up my dad always preached that jackrabbit starts and high rpm's between shifts lowers the gas mileage. I hope that the oil you put in the car is only part synthetic. If the engine is not new, you could knock the main bearings out of the engine using totally synthetic oil. I would dump the oil and change back to regular motor oil. I have for years and will continue to use 10w40 valvoline in everything I own. I had a 67 AMC Rambler when I was a teen and I drove it very hard as most teens do. I was using 30hd Pennzoil. I could not keep oil in that engine to save my life. The car only had 65,000 miles on it. I was talking to a mechanic about it at the shop I was working in and he said the next time I changed the oil to switch off and put Valvoline in. I did and the car stopped using any oil. I was sold on Valvoline products and will never use anything else. Sears Spectrum motor oil is made by Valvoline, if you want to save a buck or two on your oil changes. I hope this little bit of info helps.
  • I had same trouble and a new window motor did not help! You can split the control box open and inside is a small circut board that has a couple of relays on it. If you study the solder joints under a magnefing glass you might find a joint that looks a little discolored (not shine but kinda flat color). Use a soldering iron to heat pin to that joint and apply some new solder. I pulled new motor out and installed old one back in and walaaa no more troubles
  • Thanks for the comeback wanger1, Yes this is an automatic with only about 55k on it. I try not to drive it very hard but don't like getting run over in the city. it sounds like the 2.0L is not known for being fast however I think I still have a smaller vacume leak somewhere in those miles of lines. My 89 owner manual says 10-30w straight or syntectic oil. I am using a product Royal purple and I can tell a big difference in the engine coasting or decellerating. Was told by the Napa (now car quest) engine gruru thats its tops in its line. As you tell from my email name I am still into old american iron. Have been driving a 1963 Impala since 1980 that now runs like a raped ape but the gas prices were killing me. Sorry to here you gave up your Honda cuz from what I've been hearing they are a great car for what they were designed for. Like you my friend I run the valvoline racing 10-40w in the chevy but it seems the newer motors are designed with the syntectic oil in mind. You seem pretty smart on these rice burners where I am just trying to figure out sideways 4 clys. open to any and all good advice from those who have already been down this road. Thanks and stay in touch!
  • me8eme8e Posts: 7
    I believe that refers to the ...MAIN/Fuel relay....it's actually 2 relays in one module. When you turn the key "on" the Main relay applies 12 volts to the computer ....then the computer applies the voltage to energize the FL (fuell pump) relay.
  • rick105rick105 Posts: 2
    my 86 accord started idling rough,running out of gas on a hill,have to pump pedal to keep it going.also if you hold it to the floor on highway goes to 4-5 grand & starts cutting out like a rev limiter. i seen on here it could be coil not sending enough juice to the fuel pump.any other ideas? also does anyone know what the vacuum diaphram on drivers side of carb. controls? thanks :sick:
  • thomasonthomason Posts: 3
    we are having about the same problem with 88 honda accord, runs very rough, cant set idle carberator or timing to make it run smooth with out shutting off at stop signs. Have to put in nuetral to keep it from dying. If everything is set to run half way smooth the next time it is started or the next day it will be right back to not running good at all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    First two things to do for both these cars is to check for vacuum leaks everywhere, and to do a simple tune up.

    japanese carburetors are very difficult to rebuild and you don't want to go in there unless you really have to.

    MODERATOR

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