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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair



  • Hi everyone,

    I own an '88 LXI hatchback with 217K miles. Needless to say its had many parts replaced over the last 20 years, but it has the original O2 sensors. I'm always reading how O2 sensors should be periodically changed, especially from places that sell them! So, I get no check engine light, I get good gas mileage, as high as 37MPG, and the car runs great and passes emissions. I'm guessing those little buggers would be a PITA to come out after all this time.

    My question is are their others who have never changed their O2 sensors? Should I relax about not fixing what's not broken?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    Unless you've noticed a conspicuous drop in fuel mileage, no, I wouldn't touch 'em.


  • i have a 89 accord. carb. ive been having the same problem with the idle for almost 2 years now. its a 5 speed so im able to drive as you said. abit differently. i was wondering if anyone has come up with any solutions for this problem. i have a mechanic that i trust and we are trying to research and tackle this problem. we are thinking its somewhere in the carb. maybe a air intake valve somewhere in there? Id love any kind of feed back. im ready to fix this problem for good. :confuse:
  • bgortzbgortz Posts: 1
    stopped while running in driveway. was hot at time. now no spark. tried coil, cap, points check. nothing works. getting current to coil and no spark. is there some kind of reset for the engine?
  • if its not your clutch slipping. it come most def. be your idle screw. when i first got my 89. it popped out one day im guessing and it only acted up every once and awhile. check it. simple little thing
  • adams135adams135 Posts: 3
    I have a 1989 Honda Accord Ex with an intermittent cooling problem.

    Gage .. generally stays the halfway mark but out of the blue starts climbing to HOT .. may be hot foe 15 seconds then back down below the halfway mark on the temp gage .. then go back up .. after a while goes up and stays up at HOT.

    Fan runs when AC is on (but car still runs hot even when fans are on)… does not run otherwise.

    When HOT and I cut the car off and open hood even though the fans aren’t running I can hear a humming coming from back of engine close to firewall.

    Just paid $187 to get fixed .. they replaced sensor and thermostat .. worked great for one day then started doing the HOT bit again.

    ??????? HELP !!!!!!!!

    Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I was thinking thermostat, myself, but they replaced it.

    Just a tip - when the car IS running hot, try rolling the windows down and running the heater. It'll pull heat out of the heater core of the engine and help it cool off. I've had to do this when my radiator fan quit working in my '96 Accord. It kept me from the shoulder since it stayed in the safe zone long enough for me to get to the dealer.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Gauge jumping around like that, is usually indicative of air in the cooling system/engine block. The air can get in there in one of two ways. If you open up the system to change the coolant and thermostat, or if you have a head gasket blown.

    With a blown headgasket, the exhaust gas is able to be pushed pass the gasket and into the coolant fluid. This air and pressure causes the waterpump to not be able to circulate the fluid very well, and the exhaust gases are very not so you also overheat. Hope you don't have this problem.

    If you just have air in the system from draining and filling, most of the time it will clear itself with some heating and cooling cycles. Engine heats up, pressure builds up, it blows the air (at the highest point) past the rad cap and into the overflow tank. When it cools, it draws coolant back in to refill.

    Sometimes you may also have to purge the engine block air, some vehicles have bleeder screws near the thermostat.
  • trantotranto Posts: 5
    Had the same thing Rick. I'm pretty sure you'll find that the vacuum diaphram you mentioned, has failed, and in my car an87 2l carb EX, this is the choke regulator. In my case, what was happening was that the car gradually flooded itself, and eventually cut out, usually at almost the same distance from home.Try wiring open the butterfly valve in the carby a little,the car will run so much better and be more fuel efficient. Down side, the car will be a [non-permissible content removed] to start in the morning, and you should run it for at least 3 minutes before setting off.I can't find a replacement part in my part of the world, so any help greatly appreciated. Also the diaphram(plastic) has gone on the distributor and i cant find a replacement for that either. Help!- please.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Try the parts bin:

  • Guys … I want to thank you for taking the time to give me your thoughts and suggestions. Want you to know I really appreciate all of them.

    Thegraduate .. will remember that tip … I cut the AC on so the fans would work and that didn’t seem to help .. will try the heat next time (although I am afraid to get too fat from home with it now).

    Chucko3 … DO’t think it is the Rad Cap since I can feel pressure on the rad hose (a trick I learned years ago to keep from getting scalded by opening a Rad that was hot and had pressure on it.

    Kiawah ….. I can’t tell you how much I hope you’ve right (i.e no money to speak of ). Will have to see.

    I suspect the fans don’t come on because it is not really as hot as the gauge states ..

    On another thread someone mentioned headlights … they had one where the gauge did that when the headlights were on (wiring harness?) Since I use them during the day (I like people to see me) this is a slim … remote .. possibility.

    Haven’t driven the car since I entered my plea for help. Will have to try tomorrow.

    Again … thanks for all your suggestions.
  • Hi, everyone. I need to change my 1987DX, 2.0L headgasket (168K miles). I've done this job on older American cars/trucks lots of times, but I couldn't even change the fuel filter on the 1994 Honda (just could'nt get a wrench on it!). I've been scared of newer cars ever since. White smoke pours out the exhaust pipe, and I use a radiator of coolant for every tank of gas...pretty sure I need a head gasket. Can the intake manifold be left attached to the head? Is the timing gear keyed to the shaft, etc? Just how awful is this job? Any guidance will be much appreciated. Thanks
  • I own a 1988 accord dx. It has around 200,000 miles, but a good portion of them are tow miles. On my way home from work, doing about 75mph, it just died. No warning, no noise, just died. It sat on the side of the road until that evening when i towed it on a car dolly about 15 miles. When i stopped, i noticed smoke coming from the hood of the car. The coil had melted a hole in itself from the inside out. The key was on Acc, so the flashers would work but thats it. I replaced the coil, car started right up and ran fine for about 40 miles then Just died again. It still turns over fine, just wont start. Any help please!!
  • Did you check to see you still have spark in case the new coil was defective?

  • 0chuck0chuck Posts: 2
    Punching the gas pedal revs up the engine, then the idle goes low and oscilates widely, but below higher rate. Once I go again I have to repeat the procedure. Causing excessive brake wear, and results in poor gas milage.
  • 0chuck0chuck Posts: 2
    Problem solved. The idle adjustment screw was completely loose! Cleaned with carb cleaner and screwed it all the way in. Runs like a top again. :)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Glad you solved it!! Thanks for letting us know the solution.
  • Hi,
    I have a 1988 honda accord lxi, 2.0 litter, 5 manual speed. One day my after driving it to the store and back I realized that my rpm was staying at around 2 even when I was stopping and not pressing on the gas (but the engine sounded like I'm stepping on the gas). After a couple of days of driving white smoke started to come out of the exhaust. The smoke is coming after I start driving for a while, not when I start the car, especially on third gear. It happens often when I'm stuck in traffic and the car is hot. It lasts for a while but after driving it at a higher speed it goes away. The smoke smells pretty bad and it's very choky. Can anyone tell me what could be the problem? And how much it would cost to fix? Thank you very much.
  • i have a 88 honda accord, carbeurated, automatic. once and a while when i turn the key (the starter has just been replaced) the lights on the dash light up, but nothing else happens. every other time i turn it over it fires up like a new car. when it wont start, i shake the car a little, and then it usually fires up. once it didnt no matter what i did, and i had it towed to the local shop, then it started for them every time, no matter what they did. could it be a loose wire?
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