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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

1568101117

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  • Thanks for the replies and info. Mine has only 41k miles (I promise they are true miles, I know the original owner and she kept meticulous records) and it felt like it was braking okay as well. The squeal is intermittent but on more than off. I'm in Chicago and I authorized the work to be done. It's the first major work I've had done on the car in the year I've owned it. I figure spending between 1000.00 and 1500.000 per year on fixing stuff--not counting oil changes and the like is worth it to keep me from having a car payment. I'll report back my satisfaction and what it ends up costing me. Thanks again all.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Who do you get for a $400+ brake job? Just curious.
  • As it turns out the problem was front brakes only, so there you go. Total to replace front brake pads and rotors, plus clean and lubricate calipers and hardware came to just over 400 total. From what I get from you guys it's about what you'd expect for dealership service.
  • Helped my boyfriend make some repairs to an '89 Honda Accord LXi (fuel injected), ie. replaced front brakes, replaced power steering belt, replaced gasket on valve cover, replaced battery and negative terminal cable, and also positive terminal (but not the actual cable). Car started fine before repairs were made, but now will not start. In addition headlights and dash (control) lights will not come on. However, the interior lights and brake lights function. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions? We are very puzzled. :confuse: Thanks.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Check the main fuse.
  • lgj069lgj069 Posts: 7
    Does any one know where I can view and/or print the owners manual for a 1985 Accord SEi? Thanx for your time and efforts!PEACE lgj69 E-mail: lgj069@techemail.com if you prefer.
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    I have recently put new injector seals in my 87 Accord. Now it won't start. It spins over freely, but won't start. Do I have to prime the fuel system and if so, how do I go about this? Thanks, M. B. :confuse:
  • Last week my accord lx would shimmy when I accelerated. I took it to two mechanics and they told me it was the clutch. I had the clutch replaced yesterday and it still shimmies. Shimmy=acts like the timing is off and the car shakes when I accelerate (happens 1st gear through 4th). Now, when I saw the old parts (after the clutch job), the fly wheel had a 1/4" groove down the middle so it was going to need replacing eventually. But there's still the problem of the shimmy. Is replacing the clutch like replacing the breaks (in that you need to use a special machine to grind the rotors)? Thanks.
  • tjrrtjrr Posts: 23
    I sent the car to the dealer late last year with some information that I gathered on the net. Turns out the cause of my problem was a bad coil. I have since drive the care without any issues. For a long time the needle on my tachometer has been bouncing around, from 0 to the actual RPMS. Replacing the coil corrected this problem also.

    I do not recall the details of the info I collected, but the faulty coil was causing the fuel pump to shut off.
  • tjrrtjrr Posts: 23
    I have an 86 accord, I know it is the first year of the new body, but one of the filters is near the carb.
  • wanger3wanger3 Posts: 7
    I have a 1988 Honda Accord with a 2 barrel carb. I also have a 1987 Honda Accord with fuel injection. The 87 had jumped time and mess up the valves. It has so many miles on it that I don't deem it worthy of rebuilding, so I was wondering how much trouble it would be and if it is possible the put the FI off the 87 on the 88. Will I have to change out the computers and the cam? What is involved in this transfer of parts? :confuse:
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    Sounds like either the pressure plate or clutch plate is worn out. Does it excelerate properly or is it loosing power when doing this? If it is loosing power it's probably time for a new clutch plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. What you are feeling is the clutch plate bouncing up and down off the pressure plate.
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    I have a set of 15" after market Alloys that fit an 86-89 Accord. They have 195-60/15 on them right now. I am going to put stock rims back on it. If anyone is interested in buying them, email me @ mbbaker55@yahoo.com. They look like pretty expencive wheels, but I will take $100.00 for the set.
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    A private shop will always be cheeper. Most import mechanics are about the same. Check around and ask a few people who is a good repritable mechanic in your area. It will save you money.Honda is expencive.
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    There is a ground cable on the right side of the valve cover. It goes under one of the valve cover bolts. Was this put back on. If not, it won't start.
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    I recently purchased a 88 Accord LX. the car had previously wrecked in the front end. The fuel and temp gauges do not work. I took the dash apart and found all the wiring where it was supposed to be. Could it be a connection on the other end of the wiring? Maybe at the fuel and temp sending units. I checked all the fuses and non of them are blown. :confuse:
  • my 87 Accord has started randomly missing at highway speeds after it's been driven long enough to get hot. It will miss once or twice every 5 minutes or so. Once it starts missing, if i accelerate hard it hesitates and pours oil smoke out of the exhaust. I've had oil in the intake system for a while, so I know I'm getting blow-by from a valve(s). It also idles rough now at about 200 rpm below what it should be. Any ideas?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Well, I hate to say, but prying it should have removed it. That's how they came out of my 88 LX. There is a small amount of clearance between the inboard side of the axle and the differential case, that's where you need to pry.

    My repair manual says:

    "At the inboard or transaxle end, pry the CV-joint out about 1/2". Prying the axle out causes an internal snapring to come out of its locking groove. Pry carefully to avoid damaging the oil seal. Carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case."

    If you stick a large screwdriver up into the gap and pry, make sure you pry so the tip of the screwdriver points towards the axle and not the differential where the seal is.

    I can take a pic of an old axle end if that would help.

    Mrbill
  • just bought a 1985 honda accord thinking it needed a head gasket, has oily residue in radiator, a little bit of white build up on oil cap, rough run. started to dissamble, when i pulled plugs, cylinder 2 plug had severe hard black build up on plug. what could this be a sign of?
  • oliraolira Posts: 1
    OK SO HERES THE DEAL, MY MASTER CYLINDER HEAD CRACKED, I SHIPPED A BRAND NEW ONE TO ME.REPLACED THAT, THEN THE TIMING WAS TOO FAR OFF TO START MY HONDA. SO I CALLED MY BROTHER TO HELP WITH THE ISSUE. HE GOT IT FIXED, BUT NOW....AND,(I HATE MY LIFE BY NOW) THE FUEL PUMP HAS GONE DEAD! WHAT ELSE HUH? CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHY THE FUEL PUMP HAS STOPPED WORKING? PLEASE HELP ALL FEEDBACK IS VERY APPRICIATED!!
    THANKS,

    OMAR LIRA
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    Did you check to see if the fuse for the pump was blown. It's under the hood. If that's not it, then you will have to replace the fuel pump and that will mean dropping the fuel tank, since it's inside the fuel tank. Good luck. Let us know what the problem was.
  • robo_geekrobo_geek Posts: 20
    I'm pretty sure you can pull the pump from under the back seat and not have to drop the tank. There is a little access plate. Test for voltage at the pump. On an older car, if the fuel pump is not running, I would check:
    1) ignition switch (make sure ECU is getting power)
    2) Fuel injection main relay (that powers up the pump and ECU)
    3) pump itself. Old pumps die.
  • robo_geekrobo_geek Posts: 20
    one plug that's really fouled would likely mean that your valve stem seals (and/or valve guides) on the intake valve are shot on that cylinder, and it's sucking in oil on that cylinder.

    A faulty head gasket or cracked head could do that as well, but it would more likely be pulling in coolant than oil, and overheating.
  • roirat96roirat96 Posts: 2
    I just bought this 89 Honda Accord for better gas mileage. I paid 575.00. I replaced the Valve Cover Gasket to spot oil from blowing out. (Works Fine) The CV Boot was tore off on the passenger's side, so I replaced the axle. (Works Fine) Now, the throttle is sticking causing it to idle high, any simple suggestions to start with? Also, when left idling, the engine runs hot and coolant will boil. I am going to check the fan, any other suggestions?

    Thanks, (Only upto $800.00 for a 29 MPG Car!!!)
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    thermostat? bad coolant / water mix? bad radiator (obstructions) or fan? bad pump?
  • mvetere9mvetere9 Posts: 1
    I was driving my 1989 Accord DX (Carbeurated) yesterday, and I was close to E. I immediately put 1/2 tank of gas into it, and about a mile down the road it stalled and will not start now. It was idleing erratacly for the past few months, and even stalled once or twice when coming to a stop, or if i pushed the gas to hard from a stop.

    Do you guys think the fuel lines are clogged with the "sludge" from the bottom of the tank, form my stupidity in letting it run on E?

    Also, what should I do to get it started, and where are the fuel filters located on this car?

    Thanks
  • wanger1wanger1 Posts: 32
    If it's been doing this some for the last couple of months, I would that one or both of the fuel filters are stopped up. One is back near the fuel tank and the other is under the hood near the carb, and yes you could have picked up some sludge from the tank, but if replacing the fiters doesn't fix the problem or on only part of the problem, you may end up pulling the axcess panel under the rear seat and pull out the fuel ppick-up line in the tank and clean the strainer. To get it running, if it's been sitting a day or so, try to crank it again. If it starts, get it home and take it easy so you don't still up any of the trash in the tank. Get it home and start with the fuel filters. After you get it running where you can drive it, go to the partsstore and pick up a can of Sea-Foam fuel system treatment. Put a half can of this in the tank with a full tank. Run it until it's down to about 1/4 tank, fill it again and put the other half can in. After you run this through it, I think you will be very surprised at how well it runs. If it's still running rough, you might give it a new set of plugs and wires. I have an 88 Accord and when I bought it it was running real bad. I thought it had serious carb problems, but after doing just what I told you, the thing runs great and I'm getting almost 40mpg. Good luck. :)
  • tjrrtjrr Posts: 23
    You will see that I had a similar problem on an 86 accord (carb). Along with the stalling / bucking that my car did (and not starting after stalling), the tach needle was very eratic (and had been much before this problem started). After researching the problem on the web, I narrowed it down to the coil, which the Honda dealer confirmed and replaced. It corrected the tach problem, and the car has not stalled since.

    Since I replaced the fuel pump 3 times, I know from experience that you can remove the filter and with a flashlight see the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump sits. This will confirm if you have dirt / sludge in your tank. The fuel pump is accessed via a circular plate behind the back seat on the driver's side of the car. Very easy to check this.
  • mrbonedogmrbonedog Posts: 1
    Help! I have an 87 Accord (carbureted)that has an intermittent stalling problem. The problem is electrical - the engine quits like you turned the key off. The coil is new, so I don't think that's it - plus it stalls cold as well as hot. It usually starts right back up...except the last time it happened. The last incedent occured precisely when I hit the turn signal. This is going to be hard to find. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Brett
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would check the voltage coming off the ignition switch when you have a failure. You may have to connect a temporary wire so that it is easy to monitor with a voltmeter. If ignition switch is not the problem, then move closer toward the engine controls and distributor, to see where you are dropping electrical power.
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