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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    edited May 2011
    The Maintenance Reminder Indicator is a mechanical device which switches a colored tab from green to yellow, and later from yellow to red as the maintenance interval of 12,000km (7,500 miles) is approached and then reached.

    The indicator is reset to the start of the maintenance interval by inserting the ignition key into the slot located on the front of the instrument cluster lens. When reset, the indicator's colored tab will return to green.

    RE: TACHOMETER -- in that case, it sounds like a malfunction in the tachometer itself---I believe this is a part of the speedometer so maybe not much you can do about it at this point.

    Any good repair shop should know how to read the trouble codes on an older OBD-I system.
  • dzwoman09dzwoman09 Posts: 1
    when you changed your distributor cap. Did that work?
  • if it is obd1 computer. the head and the block will work. but the obd2 distributor and some other sensors are differnt. you can change out with your old stuff. if you want power go to i think and get an h22 dohc vtec and go from 130 to 200 hp. adding four wire from the motor to the ecu in the car is quite easy.i have one in my 92 accord four door. had it in a 90 accord two door till the body fell aprt. had it up to 147mph in fourth with pedal and another gear to go. makes the accord fun to drive.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Posts: 48
    I have an '01 Accord, 4cyl that will need engine replacement soon and would be very interested to know if you think I could go from a present 150hp to 200hp??
    Think Tiger can help me? :shades:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Not unless you turbocharge it, or possibly do some serious internal engine work. You aren't going to get that kind of HP from bolt-on air filters and exhaust systems.

    Maybe a different type of Honda engine, but this gets pricey.
  • dnannerdnanner Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm just the wife of a very experienced mechanic, and for the past two and half weeks he has been diagnosing the PGM-FI, the low fuel pressure,the ECM, IAT, ground wires,blue wires,white and green wires, he replaced the 70.00 relay under the steering wheel but the original wasn't bad. He could not find ANYTHING that checked bad. He went thru all the service manual check list one by one w/his meter and jumpers and switch on and switch off etc... But the car refused to start, the brake lights would stay on then the d4 light would come on when you turned on the key over and over he took this car apart. The seats out, the dash out, the console in the middle out. Nothing was ever apparent everything always had the right current or voltage. This is what he did to fix the starting fuel d4 problem.
    The PGM-FI relay and terminals 4and5 He put in a switch between these two things relay and terminals and when the car will not start you can hit this switch(button)and it triggers the PGM to fire the fuel pump on which I guess is terminals 4and5. Starts every time. I posted earlier that I thought the cracked board was the fix he was looking for but I was wrong.
    That board is in the 70.00 part he replaced so that's not the problem he said. It still revs up and down in park and the dash lights didn't come on but it starts now every time and runs super. He will figure out the rest I'll keep you posted. 1994 Honda Accord EX
  • Hello people, I am looking for some help here on the 1990 Honda Accord Gas Gauge. I have recently purchased the vehicle and the gauge was faulting to a point where it no longer works. I tried cleaning the wire contacts and even bypassing the Ground Wire and connecting a new one to the sending unit for the gas gauge. I think the empty tank light works it least it does in my tests but I have not tried to rin the tank dry yet.anyways the the gauge still does not work properly. Anybody with info on this issue please respond thanks.
  • My 93 Honda does the in and out of gear and surging also. I have no problem starting it at all. Also, when it does this, it is very sluggish when starting to drive. Feels like almost no power, so I never pull out in traffic because it is so slow. My independent Honda repair guy said another guy had the same problem and just manually shifted all the time. My neighbor suggested that I manually shift it to see if it was a transmission problem, and it shifted and ran perfectly. I was in an accident Aug 2010 and didn't drive it for 5 months and of course the battery was dead. My son in law charged the battery and it drove like a new car. I thought someone had fixed it while I was not able to drive. All my family said no they didn't. As I was diving my now perfectly driving car, I tried to think of what was different now, and the only thing I could come up with was that the battery was dead. So the car drove fine for a couple of months and then started doing the in and out of gear and surging. Before my accident, I did the manual shifting, and manually shifted all the way to my daughter's house 15 minutes away. I had my son in law disconnect the battery for a couple of hours and then hook it up again. I left my daughter's house with a perfectly driving car again. I think it must reset the computer is all I can guess. It drives fine for several weeks and the problem starts up again. Son in law disconnects the battery for a few hours and I then have a perfectly driving car. ??
  • I also have a 93 Accord 10th Anniversary Edition, and had the exact same problem. I suffered with it for about a year. I posted a msg on page 103, msg # 2035 with my solution, but I had forgotten that the tachometer did that awful thing and when the car wouldn't shift, the tach stayed there when I was driving and scared the stuff out of me. I thought the transmission might blow up at any second. My battery solution (Pg 103 msg 2035) keeps working for now, but I have no idea how long it will still be a good solution. I'll think of something else if it fails to fix the problem in the future. Good Luck, and if you manually shift, you will see that it isn't a transmission problem. I don't have an idea what IS causing the problem, I just have the temporary band-aid for a month or two fix.
  • fergusonrfergusonr Posts: 2
    changed the front brake pads on my 1991 honda accord. Did everything by book. Test drove it and there is a rattle and the brakes arnt sticking. The two bolts that hold the caliper in place dont go in flush. There is a 2 mm gap, but i cant tighten them anymore. HELP!!
  • I had this problem about two years ago. I changed a sensor in the transmission and it fixed the problem. Hadn't had the problem ever since. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the sensor, but it was located in the transmission on the bottom part.
  • My instrument panel cluster light is dimly there, but the bulb that lights up the speedometer needle, and other needles, went completely out, my repair guy said..... anyway, he told me the console and all the dash has to come off to put a new bulb in.....that seems severe for a light bulb. He said it was more expensive than it was worth, so I just drive around at night wondering???? Does anyone know if this is the same as the cluster dimming or is it a different thing? I wonder if the whole instrument panel is going to go dark next. My car runs just fine, other than that. All of my console lights have been out for a long time, and occasionally, I go over a bump and they come on for a few minutes, or until I start up the engine again, and they're gone. The '93 accords have all sorts of electrical problems and I'm just guessing here, but it probably wouldn't be cost effective to get a new wiring harness.....may be cheaper to get a newer car. I will just keep my car and do without some of the lights. (and other things related)
  • Have a 1993 Honda Accord DX w/Auto-Transmission. If you face car, a line from the transmission enters the bottom of radiator on the right side of rad(driver side). It leaks at the connection at the rad. It did not leak, until a mechanic replaced the rad. because I had a rad. leak. Took car back and the mech. tightened the connection at the botton of the rad. and said cannot tighten anymore or would break connection at rad. what do I do. do not trust same mech. to work on it. Did he mess up when putting new rad. in car?
  • Hello,

    The Check engine light comes on and stays lit on the dash, next when I try to jump the diagnostic connector in-order to pull trouble codes it has no effect on the Check engine light,
    What I am experiencing is no gas or pump prime with no fuel at the injectors and no spark simultaneous, I have verified that the cam is turning but it seems like the computer is the culprit here.

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • I had a 93 with automatic and several years ago there was a slow leak under the transmission. At least 2 mechanics wanted to replace the transmission lines, which included the radiator.

    Finally, went to the guy who is my current mechanic and he suggested replacing the rubber (probably synthetic) tube connections as they might be 'weaping'. He did. No problem since.

    Not sure if this might apply in your case, but if the connection is something like rubber held on with something like a hose clamp, try replacing it.

    Pretty cheap solution for me.

    Tom C
  • I have a 1990 accord. It just went over 300K miles. When the weather starts to get cold (anything under 40 degrees and in the mornings when the car's been sitting all night) the car has a hard time starting. I just replaced the rotor, spark plugs and fuel filter. It will crank and crank but still has quite a hard time starting. Onces started it runs great! Any thoughts on what to look at or do? Thanks!
  • Well with all those miles it could just be old age...have you replaced the battery in the last 5 years? If not, it might be getting too old to spin the engine fast enough. You could verify by trying a jump start. If it starts right up, then a more powerful battery may help a lot. Also you can switch to synthetic oil, which allows a cold engine to crank faster and easier.

    If nothing works, you might try a compression test and see what's what in that 300K engine.
  • Well, this morning was a cold morning with frost on the car. It would not start as usual. I jumped it from our truck and it still would NOT start right away. The cranking speed sounded the same. When it is cranking I eventually get a check engine light and then the car does finally start. Once it's started I need to let it idle and warm up for 5 to 10 minutes or it will die at an intersection. Once its warmed up I can turn the engine off and restart the car right away with no check engine light on. Could this be soming to do with fuel delivery, say the fuel pump or some type of sensor or something to do with the chock mechanism? I do need to check compression like you said. Does anyone else have any ideas?
  • Maybe a bleed down on the fuel pressure regulator overnight? That would mean your fuel pump would have to re-pressurize the entire system before the injectors would get fuel.

    Low compression would exhibit the symptoms you describe. So might tight valves. Have they ever been adjusted?
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