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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Actually yes, Honda listed it in the owners manuals. My 88 Accord says Dexron fluid for the transmission. I guess it was a useable substitution, but it did cause a harder shifting trans.

    For the question Fukuyama posted, I would go with what the manual says for the weight of the motor oil.

    Mrbill
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    I have the owner manual for my 1990 honda accord and says transmission fluid----- DEXTRON only! thnaks god I knew this forum! so i followed your advice.

    on the oil change issue, I wonder if the mileage(133k miles) changes the type of oil to be used. any help on this? Should I use 5-30W or a higher grade 20-50W
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The reason older Accord manuals say to use Dextron ATF is because Honda had not developed their own ATF Z-1 at that time. The new Honda fluid is better than Dextron. I would use the Honda fluid.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    on the oil change issue, I wonder if the mileage(133k miles) changes the type of oil to be used. any help on this? Should I use 5-30W or a higher grade 20-50W

    The grade of oil represents viscosity, kind of how the oil thickness (water has low viscosity, maple syrup has high viscosity).
    In the old days, the rings around the pistons and the seals around the valves would wear out and the car would burn oil (and the main bearings would wear, also). To minimize the effect of all this wear, thicker oils were used to cushion bearings and minimize oil burning from bad valve seals and rings.
    This shouldn't be the case with a maintained motor made in the last 20 years. The same way your blood pressure can go up with high cholesterol, thicker oil raises your oil pressure which can blow seals, etc. It also increases friction in the motor and can reduce fuel economy.

    Sorry for the long winded-ness but I would keep using what the manufacturer recommends, 5w30. Some of the "high mileage" oils have a slightly different detergent package and supposedly condition older seals and what not, but I am not sure. The Accord has had Castrol GTX 5w30 every ~5k or so for the last 150k (okay, 143k) and there have been no oil burning issues.
  • cstout73cstout73 Posts: 9
    I too have a 1993 Honda Accord that I think the Master Cyliner is going. I have replaced the pads and they are good but the brake pedal is soft. I dont think its the power assist (I followed the Haynes Book to check). I am considering buying a OEM master cylinder and replace it myself but I don't know how to bleed the brakes or change the brake fluid with ABS brakes. 1992RustBucket - Did you do it yourself? How did it go? Can anyone give me some tips?
    My experience: I haven't bleed brakes before. I have changed pads several times. I replace the radiator myself.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Here is a link that may be helpful. There should be instructions on how to bench-bleed the MC with the MC when you buy one. Good luck.
    http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The master cylinder usually goes out shortly after a pad change. If the fluid has not been changed often the moisture in the fluid will cause the MC shaft to rust. When bleeding the brakes, when the pedal goes to the floor, it pushes the rusted and mostly unused portion of the shaft through the seals, tearing them up. This is why I recommend using a vacume pump to bleed the brakes, instead of the old fashioned way of pumping the brake pedal.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    The master cylinder usually goes out shortly after a pad change. If the fluid has not been changed often the moisture in the fluid will cause the MC shaft to rust. When bleeding the brakes, when the pedal goes to the floor, it pushes the rusted and mostly unused portion of the shaft through the seals, tearing them up. This is why I recommend using a vacume pump to bleed the brakes, instead of the old fashioned way of pumping the brake pedal.

    Unless you are some totally anal freak who actually changes the brake fluid every 2 years or so :blush:
  • cstout73cstout73 Posts: 9
    Here is my plan - I am going to purchase a new Master Cylinder (I am assuming this is the reason for the soft brakes - 140k miles on the car & I have never changed brake fluid), get some new blake fluid, and install the master cylinder and replace brake fluid WITHOUT using the recommended ABS Checker/Scanner.
    Anyone see any issues with that??? Whats the worst that could happen? I am assume too that the booster is good.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I think you should just bleed the brakes. I've always done my own vehicle repair, and we have easily over a million miles on our vehicles over the years.....and I've NEVER had a master cylinder go bad.

    Had to replace and/or rebuild a number of brake cylinders, replaced a number of calipers. Master cylinders? Never even on our very old very high mileage vehicles.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    I have replaced the MC, as has Elroy.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Honda maintenance schedule says to change the brake fluid every 3 years (no matter what the miles are). I plan to do it every 3 years, so maybe I will not have to change the MC on this car. The service manual for my 03 Accord says to bleed the brake lines only (not the abs). It does say to activate the abs (make the abs system activate), then bleed the brakes again. My fluid was not that bad (first 3 years of the car's life), so I decided that was not necessary this time. When the MC went out on my old car, the fluid was very dirty.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    But if he has never bled the brakes, to change the fluid and get any air out of the lines....why would one jump to recommend a MC replacement? That would be the last thing on the list.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Yes, if he hasn't tried bleeding the brakes, he should try that first. Even if the MC does turn out to be bad, the lines will already have clean fluid in them.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Put me on that list, after about 160k miles on the car. (1996 Accord LX)
  • aoroaoro Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 1991 honda accord ,what was the fix on yours if you don't mind sharing thanks.
  • 2spic4u2spic4u Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Honda Accord, after I park the car within 10-15 minutes the cooling fan goes on while the car is off... Its on for about an hour to two hours and makes a clicking sound near the relay... its stops momentarily..makes clicking sounds...then starts up again... & it doesnt stop until it drains my battery.. I changed the relay twice and realized that this isnt the problem...
    Anyone know what may be the problem?

    Any help would great!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    speaking a about brakes...I have never touched the brake fluid system in 6 years in my 1990 accord. though, I replaced the brakes pads/rotors or disk(where the pads press onto), a year ago... when you say bleeding the brake system is the same as changing the brake fluid?

    Another questions for the gang here...the manuals says I should put tires P185 70R14 87S with 29 psi front and rear...The new tires I put are P195 65R15 89T.....should I use the same pressure the manual says? or it varies depending on the tires? :confuse: :confuse:

    cheers :confuse: :confuse:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It's probably the fan timer, but you should read this link first, to make sure. Good luck

    http://techauto.bravehost.com/

    Click on "overheating" and scroll down.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    I have the same problem on my 1991 honda accord ,what was the fix on yours if you don't mind sharing thanks.

    That was the M/C going out. Within a couple of days, it didn't matter if the AC was on or off, and it would always pull very hard to one side when it was close to stopped.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the brakes feel spongy, or seem to push back up on your foot, there is probably air in the system (need to bleed them). If the pedal sinks, you either have a leak somewhere, or the Master Cylinder is going out.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    So with the availability of summer gas, fuel mileage has returned. One tank @ 32 mpg and 1 tank at 35 mpg up from 27/28 on the winter stuff.
    T-stat is fine, the car runs at normal operating temp in the winter, and typically runs the defroster without the AC if its possible to get away with it.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    Another question since I am doing some mechanics... I had some oil getting into the spark plug's chamber(were the spark plugs go in). So I took my honda to the mechanic and he changed the gasket around the engine and put some sealant (two months ago). Back then Oil was leaking into three of the chambers. No I did the oil change and checked the spark plugs, I am still getting oil in chamber 2-3 (middle ones). Is that too bad? Did the mechanic did a lousy job? Can I drie the car like that?
    :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Well if he put sealant around a valve cover gasket that's not too cool but if he's careful that might be okay (sealant goop can get sucked into the engine's oil galley's, which is NOT GOOD).

    But, presuming the valve cover gasket was put on properly, you might check your Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve to see if it's plugged up. If it is, you will build up excessive crankcase pressure and this will push oil out of the valve cover gasket no matter how much you goop it up.

    Also check the gasket on your oil filler cap.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say 'into the chamber'.....are you referring to inside the cylinder (inside the engine) where the spark plug fires?....or are you saying on the outside of the engine and outside of sparkplug at it's base?
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    sorry for the confusion...no, not inside of the engine, but outside.where the spark plug is connected to the distributor through cables. sorry for my lack of technical words :(
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    PVC was broken and was replaced at the same time as the gasket ....I will check it again ..thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Also if the valve cover is tightened down too much that will cause the gasket to spread out and leak or worse, the valve cover to bend.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Since the gasket has been changed, and the oil is still getting in, it's probably the o-rings under the rocker arm assembly. If you look down the spark plug tubes there are two seams that the oil can leak through. The valve cover and the second seam is where the rocker arm assembly is. This is a much more difficult job than just changing the valve cover gasket. A mechanic who's worked on these engines before should have checked that out. :sick:
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    hi el roy and shiftright,
    I followed your recommendation and after checking , I am impressed I drove from Florida to Canada like this.

    1. I checked the oil filler cap, and there is no gasket or o ring around. :sick:
    2. Since shiftright mentioned hte valve cover being too tightened down, Ichecke the 10 mm bolts and they were rather loose! :sick: so I tigthened them down for good(not to the extreme)

    3. I was oing to check the PVC. but I was in doubt on how to pull it off..so please let me now how to get it out. Is it screwed to the engine or just comes off by puling it out? I checked the hose and it is sucking air in??(makes vaccum).
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