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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I think you should reconsider getting a second,older car "just for fun". Calculate the additional annual cost of the older car. Surely you can find something better and more fun to do with the $ in Austin. No offense,just my .02.
  • austinman7austinman7 Posts: 313

    Well, if I lived in Austin you'd probably have a point, but here in Kentucky all there is to do is sit on the veranda, sip our mint juleps and wait for next year's Derby. ;)

    Hey, give me a break -- Edmunds is a place for people with above average interest in cars, right? I confess, that's me. :)
  • austinman7austinman7 Posts: 313

    Thanks for your perspective on the 94-97 gen, which I'm looking at, but the overall design just doesn't appeal to me like the 90-93 gen.

    I agree with all your points about the 90-93 models.
  • austinman7austinman7 Posts: 313

    Sounds like you have a nice 1996 model and are quite happy with it. As I said in the above post, I'm driving a few of those too, but the 90-93 gen has the styling appeal to me. Interesting that your 1996 Accord seems quicker than the 2006. Maybe the weight difference accounts for that.
  • djkotodjkoto Posts: 1
    I have a chance to get a 93 accord and VERY good aesthetic condition that runs well. the problem is I dont know much about cars and how long they can go, and it has 210k miles. I know any other car would probably blow up tomorrow with that millage, but does this accord still have enough life to get me to work and sometimes road trips?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    That's impossible to answer. Statistically, the car is finished...that's the normal lifespan (and then some) for just about any car built on earth. But if it had excellent care, or perhaps a rebuild at some point, who knows how far it might go? Generally the bottom ends of those engines can last quite a while, but head gaskets and valves and camshafts can be pretty tired by 200K. When they talk about an engine "blowing up", it's usually not a thrown rod or bad crankshaft, it's usually a head gasket, or oil starvation and seizing because the engine has burned oil for so long and somebody forgot to check oil level. Also oil pumps can fail, etc.

    All I CAN say with some assurance is that you should pay very very little for a car with 210K miles on it, because you are in a high risk situation. Certainly not anything close to "book" value.


  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Interesting that your 1996 Accord seems quicker than the 2006. Maybe the weight difference accounts for that.

    Well, I didn't mean faster, just a little "lighter on its feet" when handling curves. It drives like a compact (which it is) while the 06 drives like a larger yet-still-excellent vehicle. The 2006 is definitely the speed AND economy champ though (that 2.4L is freakin' fantastic!).

    To clarify the weight/power issue, the 1996 Accord has 21.96 lb for each horsepower (2855 lbs, 130 hp), while the 2006 has only 19.26 lb for each horsey (3,200 lbs, 166 hp). Basically, my 2006 is as fast with 500 lbs on board as my 1996 is empty.
  • miyage007miyage007 Posts: 5
    I just signed in on this awsome site and maybe someone can help me with this problem. My 1990 Ex Accord just started making buzzing/clicking noise when the car is running and discovered that its coming from the return signal/hazzard relay.

    I replaced it but clicking noise is still there. Signalling to the left or right seems to work normally. Its pretty anoying when you have to go for a long drive. I also got the feeling that the relay itself will eventually die from this. Does the signal handle itself causing this? Maybe its worn? Anyone here has any idea on how to resolve this?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    So,then,they don't have nice restaurants in Kentucky? :)
  • austinman7austinman7 Posts: 313
    Hmmmm...not sure how to relate eating out to the subject of my (obviously satiric) post. But we do have nice places to eat out, as you do everywhere. Of course, we practically invented gourmet dining, aka KFC. ;)
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Just suggesting another way for you to spend your "second car/beater" money. Much more exciting than 2nd car insurance,repairs,etc. Just my .02.
  • tbarbe02tbarbe02 Posts: 2
    Ok, I have a problem. I just had my TCU replaced and in the process my battery was disconnected, now my radio which has an anit theft code on it will not work and is asking for a code. I purchased the car from someone a little over a year and a half ago. I have been unable to get the radio out to put a new aftermarket radio in. I do not know what the code is and not sure where I can find the code. Does anyone have a code or know where I can find the code or a "dummy" code to reset the radio.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If you can't find the code, you would have to get it from the dealer. If you have the owner's manual, it may be written down it there somewhere, or look in the glove box. It will be a 5 digit number. If you have to go to the dealer, you may need the serial # from the radio, so call before you go.
  • scubasteve,
    I had a very similar problem with my 95 accord. I was ready to replace the window motor for the driver door...until I saw what a pain it looked like it was going to be. I hated evry time I had to pull up to a drive through! Guess what fixed it? A $5.00 can of CRC Silicone Spray! I generously sprayed the entire rubber window gasket inside the door from top to bottom that I was able to reach with the spray (don't get it on your paint!). Then I sprayed some on a rag and wiped it around the edge of the window glass. The very first time I tried it, it worked like brand new!! I know it sounds too simple, but it sure would be worth the $5.00 can of silicone spray : ) When I saw how good it worked, I did all four windows!

    let me know if it works...or at least helps.

  • tbarbe02tbarbe02 Posts: 2
    Do anyone know how to take a 1993 honda accord ex four door radio out? It is still stock with the tape and cd deck :( ....
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    I am trying to pull out the condenser fan and I don;t know how to access the lowest screw. (from under the hood?)... another thing my check engine light comes up randomly, no prob with the car though. The rpm when the car starts is 1000 then goes down to 600 that normal? i just orderd tha haynes manual, since I couldn;t find it for free in the internet :confuse:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Can't help with the condenser fan at the moment but here is a link to get a code for the CEL.

    Follow the instructions there and you'll get your error code. Not sure on your vehicle mileage but I would guess it's above 100K (hey, our babies are getting old now) and if you aren't noticing drivability issues I'm betting on an EGR code or something along those lines. Be sure to post what you get though.

    The Haynes manual is decent for basic maintenance and a bit more, but if you are interested in the real nitty gritty you might want to consider the service manual from Helm Inc. The service manual combined with a Haynes make for a formidable combination!

    Good luck!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    thank for the advice man. Yep check engine light ...code 12 (EGR system).... S light flashing codes 1,2,15 S light flashing has been documented on this forum before...I am gonna check the TCM 'cheap' resistor in the next days.

    About EGR, could I inspect the system without a vacuum gauge?

  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    You really should have a vacuum gauge for that but people have "gotten around it" by moving the EGR diaphragm up by hand and seeing if the car stalled. No change is a good indication your EGR flow is restricted in the passages enough so that cleaning is very needed.

    Some have even plugged the port with the diaphragm up to see if the valve could hold vacuum as well but again, a gauge is a cheap investment you will get use out of.

    If some of that didn't make sense please forgive me, I need sleep!
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