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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    I'm thinking of checking my local junkyard for a TCM for my 93' Honda. What year Hondas are compatible with my 93 to replace the TCM?
    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think 92 and 93 are pretty much the same. The 91 model had the "sport shift" so it may be different. Try to match the numbers on the computer, if you can.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hey Elroy,

    When replacing the TCM, do I need to disconnect the neg battery terminal?
    Any other specs I need to look into? I don't want a mechanic to over charge me just to replace this if I can do it myself.

    Let me know
    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would take the negative cable off. Do you have a stock radio? And do you have the code for it? If you don't have the code, and disconnect the battery, your radio will not work. The plugs for the wires going into the TCM are in there pretty tight, so you will have to use some force to get them off. If there is a locking tab on the connectors, make sure you release them when pulling the plugs out. Never pull them by the wires. Grab the plug. It will be easier to get the plugs off, if you unbolt the TCM from the floor first. Bring the old TCM with you, when you go looking for a used/new one, so you will be able to compare the plug sockets. That's all I can think of, right now. Good luck

    PS: open the TCU, and check it out, before you just assume it's bad. ;)
  • eilroseilros Posts: 35
    My wife and I are looking for an older Accord and we drove a 1992 EX today. It's an auto with 179K. It has the standard rust around the rear wheel wells but the paint is decent and the interior looks brand new. They are asking $2000.

    The seller had every single maintenance receipt dating back to 1998 and it's been well maintained. Looking through the records, there are four areas of concern:

    1) Right front coil spring is cracked
    2) Oil pan gasket leak
    3) Transmission line leak
    4) Rear seal leak

    The owner stated that there are just a few drops of oil on the ground and they don't have to add any oil between oil changes (3K miles).

    Are the leaks anything to be very concerned about? Since it's Sunday and I can't contact my mechanic, does anyone have an estimate of what it would cost to fix each of the issues?

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    A car that old will likely have some issues. The oil leaks could cost you a good bit to fix. The rear seal is the most difficult, because you would have to remove the transmission to change it. It that's not leaking a lot, I would leave it alone. The other leaks should be easy enough to fix. If the engine and transmission don't have any major issues, it sounds like a good deal. You may want to check down the spark plug tubes for oil (could be another potential repair). Have you test driven the car? Do any warning lights come on? Overall, it sounds like a good deal. You can't expect much for $2000.
  • nidgenidge Posts: 18
    I have the same problem. In fact Because of all the oil on the plug wells, I can't seem to be able to draw the plugs out because the oil lines the inside of the spark plug socket and it slips off. How did you remove the oil in the plug holes? Also, did you only install new o-rings or how did you seal them. The new gasket kit that I got had 4 o-rings, the cover gasket itself and 4 other type of round gaskets that I don't know what to do with. Any info could be a great help to me. I'm really not sure how to seal the plugs from the oil leaking in. Thank you
  • eilroseilros Posts: 35
    elroy5, We did drive it today and it ran well and shifted smoothly. The only warning light that came on was for the brake lamp I believe. However, all of the lights worked fine.

    I would assume we'd want to get the cracked front coil spring replaced first due to the safety aspect.

    I can deal with a little bit of an oil leak for now. We just plan to drive it until April or May until we buy a minivan. I'm hoping to find something that we'll be able to drive until then and sell for close to what we paid.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The brake light is probably no big deal, as long as the brakes are working properly, and not pulling to one side. Often, the light is just because the fluid is low, or the rubber on the master cylinder cap is sagging. The car should be just fine for your needs. You may actually like the car more, after driving it for a while, and not want to get rid of it. If you plan on changing the spring yourself, you will need a spring compressing tool to remove it from the strut.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Unless you have a small hose taped to a shop vac or vacume pump, it will be difficult to get the oil out. You can just unscrew the plug, and let the oil go into the cylinder. It may smoke a bit at startup, but the oil should burn up pretty quickly, and not hurt anything. The o-rings go under the rocker arm assembly, and the larger doughnuts go on the valve cover. You may need a needle nose pliers to get the plugs out, if your socket will not hold. Here is a link that describes in detail what you are dealing with. Good luck http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html

    PS: Be careful tightening the little nuts on the valve cover (they are only supposed to be torqed to 7 ft.lbs. If you try to tighten them too much, the little studs will snap off, and you have more parts to order, and replace.
  • My 94 Honda Accord LX will not go into park or reverse. It was alway hard to move the shift knob, but now even with both hands it won't go into park and it kinda slides from reverse to park, it's like it won't lock into the gear. It will go into all the drive gears and netural. Right how I have it in netural with the parking brake on. I tried the shift lock, but that did nothing. Please help I need my car
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hey elroy,
    I reset the TCU under the hood from the 7.5 fuse and it solved my problem for who knows how long, but it worked without spending $$$ on another TCU. The mechanic I went to had no idea what he was looking at and told me it's a tranny job, so I said see ya!!!!.

    Elroy I know I may have to replace the TCU sooner or later and was wondering if replacing the ECU and TCU at the same time will resolve both problems of the low shifting and the engine light going on periodically? Or will a complete tune-up be the answer here where they'll replace the plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, belts,etc. I'm looking to spend as little $$$$ as possible

    Please reply back
    Thanks
    cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the check engine light is on, you need to get the trouble codes. The problem most likely has nothing to do with the ECU. Here's a link on how to get the codes. Get the code/codes, and come back with the numbers. Good luck
    http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm

    The TCU problem could come back. Just be sure to check the computer out, before just assuming it's the problem. They will not let you return a TCU after you purchase one.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hey Elroy

    I got the code some time ago which is, #43 = fuel supply system. A friend told me it's definitely the oxygen sensor and I'm leaning toward replacing that. I'm 2years with my 93' Accord EX without any tune-up and I think it's due. What you think?

    cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    "fuel supply system" includes a lot of parts :surprise: . Trying to guess the right part, can become very expensive, especially if you keep guessing the wrong part. :sick: If you don't want to pay someone else to diagnose your problem, I suggest you get a good repair manual. Helm (factory manual) is the best, but you can get very useful information from Haynes or Chiltons manuals, which are under $20 at auto parts stores. Of course, doing troubleshooting sometimes requires special tools, and some mechanical knowledge. Paying a mechanic can be tough, but diagnosing, and fixing your own car, can also be a challenge, and costly when first starting out. Happy Hondaing :D
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    For a fee you can get troubleshooting and repair info at Honda Service Express. Owners manuals are available free of charge.
    https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    This site also has great troubleshooting information for 4th gen Accords.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
    But, like I said before, you need to have some mechanical knowledge, and some testing equipment (in most cases).
  • I am using a Honda Accord SV4 Vtec year 1995..the problem is ,,when i off the engine,,after some time,the is a boiling noise fr my hood,i realise its th water boiling from the radiator spare thank..and at the dsahboard,my check engine oil,battery and ABS lights are lighted up,its like blinking..
    this is while i am myself in the car,,but when i off the engine,,get out,lock the car via alarm,,,as the boiling noise starts,my alarm goes off...and i cant even unlck the car,using the alarm remote control at my car key..after some time, the alarm stops,,the boiling noise stops and everything is normal..
    The next day,,i see that the water level at the spare plactic tank is reduced a bit,,and thats all,,
    i went to a mechanic..he got my radiator changed,,the thermostat changed ,,the temperature switch replaced etc...but,,still i am experiencing the same problem,,
    What am i to do,,...??
    I am going nuts,,,
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like you have a blown head gasket (exhaust gases getting into the coolant).
  • does thismake the lights on my dashboard on,,??
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think a blown head gasket could light up the Check engine light, and the oil light, but not the battery or ABS lights. The battery and ABS lights sound like a wiring or computer problem. Are you sure this "alarm" is wired properly. Seems to me, many cars with electrical problems, also have screwy alarms. Coincidence? I think not.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi again
    I know I need a wheel alignment because my car pulls to one side pretty bad. After getting an oil change my mechanic tells me rack & pinion work needs to be done. My question, can I still get a wheel alignment after buying new tires without the rack & pinion work done? Who can I trust besides God?

    I feel my mechanic is pulling my chain.

    Jim
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sure, but IF you then have to go and replace the rack and pinion steering....you would need to get your alignment done again.

    To be most cost efficient, you should fix all the parts that need to get fixed, and then align the vehicle.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Who can I trust besides God?

    NO one ;) . That's why, when it concerns yours, or your cars health (and a big bill), get a second opinion.
  • eilroseilros Posts: 35
    We bought the 92 Accord EX for $1250 on 10/22. So far I haven't seen a single drop of fluid on the cardboard I placed under the engine!!!

    There is quite a bit of rust around the rear wheel well and into the quarter panel. The bumper cover retaining screws have rusted out so the bumper cover is a little loose near the wheel. Does anybody have a quick, easy and cheap repair for that issue? I'm thinking of just using Automotive Goop or QuikSteel to keep the bumper cover from moving.
  • I have a older model (1990) accord LX. Someone told me I have a bad ignition switch cintrol arm. The only way to keep the car running is too hold the key between the start and on postion. Is this easily fixed?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Read this link, and see if you think it's doable. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html
  • Hi, I have a 93 honda accord, I'm trying to replace the power steering gearbox and rack and pinion unit. I've disconnected all necessary items and tubing lines and disconnected steering input shaft from the steering wheel shaft knuckle. Everthing is loose or remove but can't get the unit out. It won't drop down far enough to get the input shaft (shaft in gear box) to clear the hole in the floorboard, there are some braces that are welded on that keeping it from dropping down. i think these braces protect the tie rod ends.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,028
    1. Drain the power steering fluid. See: Power Steering Fluid\Service and Repair
    2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in the proper locations.
    3. Remove the front wheels.
    4. Remove the steering joint cover.
    5. Remove the steering joint bolts, and move the joint toward the column.

    6. NOTE: Lock the steering shaft with ignition key to keep the steering shaft in position.
    7. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the nut.
    8. Install the 12 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the 12 mm hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover.

    NOTE: Remove the ball joint using the Ball Joint Remover, 28 mm (07MAC-SL00200l or equivalent.

    9. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle using the special tool.
    10. Remove the gearbox shield.
    11. Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its lines, and that end of the gearbox, blow them dry with compressed air.
    12. Using flare nut wrenches, disconnect the four lines from the control unit.

    A: From pump: 14 mm wrench
    B: To oil cooler: 12 mm wrench
    C: To reservoir: 17 mm wrench
    D: To power steering speed sensor: 12 mm wrench

    13. Disconnect the 4P connector from the heated oxygen sensor. (EX, SE only)
    14. Remove the exhaust pipe A bracket nuts.
    15. Remove the self-locking nuts that connect the exhaust pipe A to the three way catalytic converter, and the exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold.

    16. Remove the exhaust pipe A.

    CAUTION: Replace the exhaust gasket and self-locking nuts when you reinstall the pipe.
    17. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts and holder.
    18. Remove the left tie-rod end, then slide the tie rod all the way to the right side.

    19. Slide the gearbox right so that the left tie rod clears the bottom of the rear beam, then remove the gearbox assembly.

    CAUTION: Be careful not to bend or damage the four power steering lines when removing the gearbox assembly.

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  • i had my transmission fluid changed in my car and the car was driving just fine but when i stopped at a stop sign and then tried to go the car wouldnt move but when i shut the car off and restarted it, it drove just fine can u tell me what the problem could be... :(
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