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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

1464749515269

Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you verify that your radiator cooling fans are working?
  • Thanks for the reply. My mechanic (a man I would trust with my life) replaced the radiator. I did not see him do it, but I have every reason to believe he did it correctly. He replaced the thermostat at the same time. That was about a week ago. It didn't solve the problem though. At the time that he replaced the radiator and thermostat, he noticed that the passenger side radiator fan was very loud. The bearings were going bad. He suggested that we replace it at the time, but he didn't have one to put in. Then two days ago, the fan totally siezed up. I went to Auto Zone, picked one up, brought it to him, and he put it in. The problem persists. When I put the car in park, turn on the air conditioning or heat and open the hood, I see both fans working. When I turn the car off, the passenger side fan comes on automatically and does what I think it is supposed to do. What I do not know is whether the fans do what they are supposed to do while I am actually driving. Like I said in the first posting, the temperature gauge can be controlled pretty well by my using the heat. But it's going to be winter for only so long...

    Is the temp sensor the next thing you would check/replace?
  • Thanks for the reply. When my mechanic (a man I would trust with my life) replaced the radiator last week, he put in a new thermostat at the time. That didn't solve the problem though. At the time, he noticed that the passenger side radiator fan was very loud. The bearings were going bad. He suggested that we replace it then, but didn't have one to put in. Then two days ago, the fan totally siezed up. I went to Auto Zone, picked one up, brought it to him, and he put it in. At first the new one was not working, but then we checked the fuse, saw that it had blown with the last fan, and replaced it. Both fans now spin well, but the overheating problem persists. When I put the car in park, turn on the air conditioning or heat and open the hood, I see both fans working. When I turn the car off, the passenger side fan comes on automatically and does what I think it is supposed to do. What I do not know is whether the fans do what they are supposed to do while I am actually driving. Like I said in the first posting, the temperature gauge can be controlled pretty well by my using the heat. But it's going to be winter for only so long...

    Is the temp sensor the next thing you would check/replace?
  • Your mechanic has replaced a ton of things and not solved your problem. Before I spent any more money on this problem, I would ask him if he bled the cooling system (most cars do not have the two bleeders that those Accords have) - if he is not used to working on Accords, then he might not normally do it. I really question the need for a radiator replacement. Personally, I'd probably take it to the dealer now.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    No, actually at this point I'd be checking for a blown headgasket on the engine.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    My mechanic (a man I would trust with my life)

    Maybe you can trust him with your life, but I would not trust him with my car, and unlimited money to fix it. It seems he is just throwing parts at the problem, and not doing any diagnostic work. Guessing which part is the problem can become very expensive, when you keep guessing the wrong part. Maybe the radiator was bad, but it was obviously not causing the overheating. You may have paid for a radiator, and other parts, you didn't need. It's easy to guess parts, when it's someone else's money.
    Not trying to turn you away from your present mechanic, but he may not be the man for this particular job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,704
    With a car of this mileage, especially one that has been overheating recently, the mechanic should have immediately tested for a bad head gasket before chasing other issues.

    If the heater was working, the thermostat was working; if the fans were working, then no need to fix them at this point. The radiator can be flow tested or at least inspected. the radiator was the best of his guesses actually but not the right one.

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  • On and external distributor coil on a 92 accord 2.2L fuel injection engine, the connector has 3 wires to the coil.
    A yellow, black/yellow and white/black wires, what color goes where on the coil.
    I know the white/black is to the negative and both yellow and yellow/black wire is hot.
    What is the 2 wires yellow and yellow/black wires for.
    I have installed a MSD 5520 or 5540 multiple discharge ignition, I forgot the number on the
    ignition and a MSD blaster 2 coil.
    The ignition box has a heavy black and red wire to the battery, a red, white, grey, orange, black and a 2 wire connector with a purple and I forgot the other color wire.
    I have the heavy black and red wire connected to the battery terminals, but, where does the other colored wires go to.
    I am most intrested with the yellow and yellow/black wire and what they represent. I looked in the manual but was confused with the wiring.
    Any and all reply will be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    94shadow
  • My car is still in the body shop, so I have not
    done anything to my transmission. I hope to get it back early this week.

    Thanks,
    94shadow
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hi all
    I'm having exact same problem as fhorta and 94Shadow with D4, ABS and engine light. My 93 Honda Accord EX - D4 lights goes on first thing when starting up then goes away later on causing me to crawl at very low speeds then picks up normally. I read from one of the helpful links that repairing or replacing theTCM or ECM should be considered first before any major tranny work. Everything else works fine on my car, AC, windows, heat.

    Can someone direct me to a auto junkyard or store in Central florida where I can find a used TCM or ECM unit for low price?

    I'm ready to throw in the towel on my Honda if all else fails.
    Thanks - Cybercool
  • when driving at hih speed > 100km/h, I experience heavy vibration of the steering and the vehicle as a whole. Also, while applying break, I experience high virbation. Could somebody tell me what to do.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have your tires rebalanced, as a start. That should address the vibration at high speed problem, unless you have a bent rim or bad tire out of round.

    Once you have that speed vibration problem fixed, then see if you still have the braking vibration. If so, then you likely have heat warped front rotors, which would need to be replaced.
  • during driving car engin turn off and all lights turn on,if i start again it will start and driving,my mechanic check it and all parts are good.
    i changed plugs,plugs wires,complete didtributer and main relay according to different mechanic advice.
    some body can help me?
    car may be stop at adistance of half km or 200 km
  • Got my car back from the body shop yesterday and I had a pleasant surprise.
    My auto trans shifts perfectly now. The collision must have cleared all the blocked passages in the trans.
    But, now I have a check engine light that stays on. I read the code and it was a 12 (either the EGR or the oxygen sensor).
    I'll have to check it out today.

    94shadow
  • Thank you to everyone who offered advice. In case anyone is interested, we did find the solution: My mechanic couldn't figure out why what he had done had not fixed the problem, so he retraced his steps. It tuns out that the brand new thermostat he had installed had come faulty from the factory. He then replaced the new thermostat with a second new thermostat and all became good once again. Also, to let you know that good,knowledgeable, and honest mechanics can still be found, I'd like to pint out that after replacing my radiator and thermostat, he refused to take payment for any of his other work. He installed the fan for free (I bought the fan and brought it to him. He installed it.). And then he covered all other costs after that. He has kept my business.
  • I have a 93 Honda Accord, 4dr, 2.2 L, 123,000 miles. About a month ago, I noticed, or thought I did, that my headlights (low beams) seemed to flicker when driving at night. It happened so fast, I thought I was seeing things. Then this week, when I went out to go to work..in the dark..and started the car up the headlights would not come on at first (low beams), but then would go on and then off. I would have to turn the headlights on and off several times and each time they stayed on a bit longer and would eventually just stay on. At that time the highs worked fine but not the lows. Then this morning, both the lows and the highs would not come on at all. All other lights..inside and out..work fine. I called my Dad and he thinks it may be a relay. Would this be correct? If so, then the Lighting or the Dimmer Relay? Could a fuse be loose...they seem to be fine tho. Headlights do not seem to show evidence of being burned out but is it possible for both to go at the same time? Help!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like the light switch itself. If you can wiggle the (combination) switch, and get the lights to come on, that's your problem.
  • This morning I went out and checked the light switch and it was OK, tho I wasn't exactly sure how to tell if it was bad, but it was not loose. Also pulled all the fuses from the under the dash just to make sure they were all OK and they were, and I might add, the wind chill this morning was 10 below so that wasn't too fun. Anyway, I went to an auto parts store and picked up a new light relay ($15.97), popped it in and problem solved. Headlights now work fine. Thanks for the advice tho. I was pretty much in the dark ,so to speak, on what the problem might have been.
  • glynosglynos Posts: 3
    my car idles rough/ almost dies at stop lights. I have replaced plugs, wires, distributer, fuel filter. Also sometimes the brake pedal will sink to the floor, no brake fluid leaks though. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,704
    You might check for a clogged EGR valve or tubing, for the rough idle.

    When you say "sinks to the floor" you mean ALL the way to the floor? If so, then you might have an internal rather than external pressure loss. If it sinks and then gets very hard, but does NOT sink to the floor, and the car still stops with increased foot pressure, then you have a power brake vacuum booster failure or leak....AND....if you have a power brake vacuum leak, this might also explain the stalling.

    So your two problem may, or may not, be related.

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  • hey thank-you for the insight.. one more symptom-- when I pump the brakes the rpm's rev up. Does this help furthur diagnosis? thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,704
    That might indicate a problem with the power brake vacuum booster yes.

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  • I have never seen the radiator cooling fan come on on this car unless the A/C was turned on (then both the A/C fan and Radiator fan come on). Note - this is not a daily driver. I can not believe that my engine never gets hot enough for this fan to be needed.

    I want to determine that the fan is functioning as designed and I am not going to cook the engine.

    I have done the following as part of the diagnosis:
    1) Short the terminals on the thermoswitch connection (ignition on) - fan comes on as it should
    2) Removed thermoswitch and checked it for resistivity in boiling water - switch closes as designed below 100C (design is to open at 93C)
    3) Rebled cooling system to verify no air pockets

    Qs: For anyone who understands and has worked with these systems:
    a) Is it possible that this system is OK or am I missing something else
    b) Is it beneficial to buy one of the aftermarket thermoswitches that opens at 80C

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,704
    Does your car not have a temp gauge? And yes, you can lower the temperature at which the fan comes on by installing a different sender but I would use a factory one. And yes, the fans are supposed to go on when you turn the AC on.

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  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yes its reasonable. I had just the timing belt, balancer belt, and waterpump replaced on my '96 2.2L Accord LX for $478 (the next cheapest quote was $720, and the dealer wanted $850), so that sounds reasonable indeed.
  • I dont have any brake lights. I replaced the brake switch and still nothing?
  • I have a 90 Accord LX 5sp. The problem I have is that the rad fan will not run when the engine is running. The fan works fine with the key off and cools accordingly then shuts off as it cools down enough. The relay is fine and the rad fan thermo switch is new. Could there be a problem with the ignition switch or wiring at the switch which would cause the fan not to run when the engine is on, but work as normal when the key is off? Has anyone come across this anomaly? Please help! :cry:
  • Here is a link to troubleshooting the fan:
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html#nofan. Hope this helps.
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • whenever I brake, the steering wheel shakes but not too much. What could be the problem? I had my front tires replaced sometime ago and they did balance and alignment on it. Please advise.
    Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,704
    warped brake rotors.

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