Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

1495052545569

Comments

  • lizard4lizard4 Posts: 3
    I bought my fiancee a '92 Honda LX and he has had it for a few weeks when it would start up, drive about 10 feet and would stall. It would start right up again, but when put in gear, even neutral, it would stall again. It still would turn over, though. My fiancee's friend says it is the fuel pump, but I had that problem before and it would not even turn over if it was the fuel pump. I thought it might be the fuel filter, since the car had 122,000 miles on it. I don't think the timing belt has been replaced on it yet, but was planning on doing it soon before this mishap. Any suggestions?
  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    How about the fuel pump relay box under the dash?.......JAT :sick:
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    My 93' Honda Accord EX is now shifting a lot when driving. It starts out smooth and then jerks a lot with the D4 light blinking like crazy. I took out the TCM and ECM boxes just to unplug and plug back to see and nothing. What can it be? I replaced the fuel pump a year ago. Can it go bad already?

    please help
    JC
  • kkay2kkay2 Posts: 7
    Hi, I recently acquired a 90 Honda Accord and the ignition key keeps sticking when I want to turn it off and remove the key. I know you have to press in and then turn, but even when I do this it still won't come out. It gets very frustrating especially when I'm running late and can't get the key out. If I'm patient and keep trying over and over, it eventually turns all the way and then can be removed. I hope I don't break it off one of these days out of anger & frustration! Would WD40 work? Thanks, K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    No! NEVER EVER put WD-40 in a lock.

    What you want to try is a graphite lock lubricant (any hardware store).

    Careful it can be messy, so hold a paper towel around the tube when you squeeze it, and don't overdue it. And work the key back and forth, then clean the key off before putting it in your pocket or purse.

    If that doesn't work, you'll need a new key and cylinder probably. Have a locksmith look it over.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • lizard4lizard4 Posts: 3
    We're looking into it right now. My fiancee has it towed back to our house today.
  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    Had to replace mine also,not that big of a job if you have a manual.....mine would not come out unless P as in park was lit up on dash..... :cry:
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    Before I go purchase this part, I wanted your input on this first. Should I buy a ECM unit on Ebay for $35.00? I'm about 65% sure it's the ecm that's gone bad on my 93 accord. I get the blinky D4 light and my car is jerky when driving.
    Please input on this

    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • gojacketsgojackets Posts: 23
    Flashing D4 along with crazy shifting from the transmission generally means trouble related to the transmission control computer - not the ECM. You need to jump the diagnosis connection - a 2 pin female connection under the passenger side of the dash - it's blue. There are links on the internet for reading the number of flashes and determining "possible" sources of the trouble (though I have been fighting mine for 6 months).
  • The heater/defroster fan (guessing here) quit working week ago. Checked the fuse and it's fine. Was suggested it might be the relay. Husband will fix himself if he knows where relay is and how to check it. Help!
  • toots92toots92 Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 91 HONDA ACCORD, AND MY PASSENGER SEAT BELT IS STUCK, I SPRAYED IT WITH WD40 AND IT WORKED FINE AFTER THAT, BUT NOW IT WILL NOT MOVE AT ALL. THE WARNING LIGHT AND THE BEEPING IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!! :mad: I CHECKED MY FUSES / TOOK THE DOOR PANEL OFF, IS THERE A FUSE FOR IT? IS THERE A DISCONNECTION TO THIS THING? CAN I TURN IT OFF? PLEASE........ SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!
  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    Mr Shiftright,

    You are right. The hoses needed to be replaced. Costed me $230 bucks just for the hoses (does the cost sound right to you?) and $300 for the labor.

    The mechanic is recommending me to replace the belts as well. That would be more big bucks! How much do you think it would cost for the belt parts only?

    Thanks
    Geez 123 :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    You can examine the belts carefully before replacing them. Look for glazing (shiny on the inside loop) and of course cracks.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    Well, I went and bought a TCM box from ebay for my 93 Accord. Wish me luck it'll work. The seller told me it's a working item and I'll just have to bite the bullet.

    Cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    My brakes on my 93 Accord EX has a hard or spongy feeling and sound when braking. I had the rear brakes done and replaced. I'm thinking it's a master cylinder job? What type of brake job am I looking at here?
    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • i have a 1990 accord dx 5speed manual transmisson.i put a driverside axle in yesterday and got one block and made a u-turn and it broke.then today i put another one in and went around the block 3 times and then that one broke.i just replace my tie rod ends and ball joints are good.anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • anything seatbelt related will be fixed FOR FREE by the dealership, this is true on all cars makers. as far as I know, safety stuff has a lifetime warrenty.
  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    are you pushing it in hard enough for the Snap-ring to engage the slot in the tranny? otherwise it will jump out .and it might be why they are breaking,or something else major is wrong. :sick:
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all, I replaced the TCM box on my car and the D4 light stopped blinking. It drives ok again but I've noticed it drives with resistance. I had the rear brakes done and all tires are currently shot and worn. Should I look into buying four new tires or getting a wheel alignment?

    Thanks, Jim
  • gojacketsgojackets Posts: 23
    I would guess that whomever did your brakes did not properly adjust the parking brake cable and you are driving with the brake partly on (even though the handle may be all the way down).

    Congrats on solving the D4 problem. I've been fighting it for 9 months on my '93
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hey Gojackets

    Thanks, I found my TCM box to solve D4 problem on Ebay and it's affordable. At Autozone parts store, they were asking $379 and I bought mine used on Ebay for $59.00. I hope it'll last me long.

    peace
    Jim
  • 94shadow94shadow Posts: 31
    Hi all...
    It's me again.
    Here goes, I replaced all of my incandescent light bulbs with LED light bulbs and all the trouble lights came on. e.g. brake light on, turn signal doesn't blink check engine light stays on.
    I mentioned this problem earlier on this forum but I forgot what I wrote. Someone wrote that I needed an LED compatible flasher relay.
    I called all the parts house in Hawaii but some of them did not know what I was talking about.
    Where can I get a flasher or relay to run all of my LED light bulbs. I took all the LED bulbs out of my car.
    Any answer would be greatly appreciated..
    Mahalo,
    94shadow
  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    First let me say THANKS to Mr. Shiftright! His advice was spot on!

    Now, I must pose another question. I need to replace the wiper on the driver side. I already bought the blade and the arm. How do I unlock the current wiper so that I could put in new one?

    The instructions that came with the Michelin HydroEdge wiper was not clear. It had instructions on how to install it but no instructions to remove the current wiper!! :confuse:

    Help again!

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    Usually it's just a "bayonet" type blade that locks in place by means of a small peg. you insert a screwdriver and lift the blade off the tiny peg and PULL ---usually you pull down toward the car. Very often the place you buy the blades from will do this for you.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • drskopfdrskopf Posts: 1
    Hi Honda Owners, i'm New Here and i hope to get some help with my small problem, i bought an Accord 92 Ex a year ago, now is 156K my Fuel Gauge was working fine until i change a dead ligth bulb in the cluster(ABS) some time ago, and since then i dont know what happened with the Fuel Level B/c always mark F eventhoug i'm running out of gas. I took it to a mechanic b/c i was having problems with my brakes ABS light was lit (diagnostic was dead ABS unit), so i changed the ABS control Unit ($20 in a yunkyard) problem solved and brakes work excellent, and then he tried to fix the problem with Fuel gauge, he took the cluster out and inspected the gauges, but he could not figured what was causing this problem, so he said that maybe is something related with fuel tank... :confuse:
    any suggestion?
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    My Honda accord 93 has worn tires that feel hard and has no bounce. How can I get back that new car bouncy feel in my Accord? Should I get new tires before looking into springs and strut replacement?

    Thanks
    cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hi all,

    My Accord shakes a bit when at idle and I know it needs a tune up. Should I get the oxygen sensor and timing belt replaced? Or should I get a full complete tune-up? I just want my car to driving smooth without shaking. Thanks, Cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    After replacing my radiator, top hose and thermostat less than two years, I've noticed at a stop light my Accord's temp gauge starts to rise. There is no visible leaks when my car is parked over night. Can there be an internal leak somewhere? I've added water periodically but I think I'll have to do a thorough flush. Your thoughts please.

    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • jeeper81jeeper81 Posts: 2
    I have a 91 Accord LX Coupe. My girlfriend drives it to work nights at a hospital 6 blocks away. I went to run an errand today and noticed a 1ft by 1ft puddle of oil under the front. Then I noticed a trail of oil and hopped in my other car to run my errand. On the way home I drove by her work and followed the trail of oil all the way home. I checked the oil, drove it around back and parked it on ramps. Oil was pouring out. Then I wiped everything off and started it again just for 30 sec. again oil pouring out. I read in my chiltons manual about changing the oil pan gasket, then about changing the oil pump. The manual didnt say anything about the seals. When I started it again, I noticed that the oil was coming from right between the oil pan and the serpantine belt. It seemed to be wet with oil around the oil pan and up the side of the timing belt housing. How do I tell if it is just the oil pan gasket or the seals and pump? I paid $1700 for this car 9 months ago and have never noticed a leak. I can do the oil pan gasket I think, but I am not willing to tackle the pump, timing belt and seals. Should I have my mechanic look at it or move on with the oil pan gasket change to see if that fixes it. Not sure if the car is worth the cost of the timing belt, seals, oil and water pump repair.
    Thanks, Jeeper81
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Oil pan gaskets don't usually leak oil that quickly (pouring out), so I think it's probably the seal that popped out. I would clean the area as much as possible, then try to determine exactly where the oil is coming from. If it is the seal, it's a pretty big job to change it.
Sign In or Register to comment.