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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Stopping the car put more wear and tear on the brakes then just holding the car from moving. If you just sat and sat at a red light, you won't be wearing the brakes at all.

    I would be more concerned to the wear and tear to the transmission shifting it in and out of drive/neutral. Brakes are alot cheaper then a transmission.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I've heard that if the rotors are hot enough, holding the brakes at a red light can actually promote warping. The reason is, the part of the rotor where the pads are pressing against the rotor will cool at a different rate than the uncovered area. Don't know how true it is, but just thought I would add that bit of hearsay. So putting the car in neutral, and letting off the brakes could actually help.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    I guess that may be possible, but consider the mechanics. Since disk brakes don't pull away from rotors as do drum brakes pull away from drums, unless the car moves, the pads are still against the rotors, just the force has been removed. I would think the uneven heat loss would still be there, foot on the pedal or not.

    Lets say you did shift the car into neutral, unless your on a level road, you still need to keep your foot on the brake to keep the car from moving.

    Just seems like alot of work for not much (if any) gain.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Also consider this. When the car is at a stop, there is no wind cooling the rotors, the engine is trying to turn the rotors, and the brake pads are holding them back. Couldn't this add to the warpage factor?

    I've had cars in the past (65 Pontiac Bonneville, my first car) that would stall, if you didn't put the transmission in neutral. My first Accord would vibrate, if the A/C was on, and I was sitting at a stop light. I would put the car in neutral, if the stop light was going to last a while. The V6 engine in my current Accord doesn't vibrate at stop lights, but from what I hear some of the 7th gen 4 cylinder cars do.

    In Louisiana, 99% of the roads are very flat, and there is very little tendency for the car to roll in neutral. Even if it does roll a little, it takes very little pressure on the brake pedal to stop it.

    Just trying to give some reasons for putting the car in neutral. Some may make sense to you, and some may not. ;)
  • nikunjd05nikunjd05 Posts: 3
    Hi guys,
    I have accord 93 10th anniversary edition. A couple of days ago, the Check Engine light came ON on the dashboard. After some researching on the internet, I found a way to find out what is wrong. I found out that the Exhaust Recirculation System is going out.
    What the heck is it? How long can I go without repairing it?
    How much will it cost?
    Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) There is an EGR valve, and EGR runners in the intake manifold. The runners, and/or the valve can become clogged up. There should be some how-to's, with pictures, on how to clean the runners and the valve on the internet. I used to have one saved, but it's gone now. Do a google search, and you should come up with something. Good luck

    If you don't get the problem fixed it could maybe cause problems with the catyllitic converter, cause hesitation (especially on acceleration), and probably hurt gas mileage.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hi

    Mine has gone on three years ago and still running but a bit rough.
    I want to repair it asap but with today's economy, I still come up short on doing it.

    I found out my code 43 form the book and it's a fuel system supply issue.
    cybercool
  • tmcburneytmcburney Posts: 8
    Is there a source to determine the nut size for the nut securing the oil cooler? I tried up to 32mm / 1 1/4" sockets but they don't fit, and I cannot find a larger socket unless I buy a 3/4 drive set.

    I'd like to know exactly what I need if possible, rather than the hit or miss trips to the HW store I've been making.

    Thanks again.
    Tom
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Will a wrench fit on the nut, and be able to turn enough to remove it? A socket or closed end wrench would be ideal, but this may be one situation where a large adjustable (cresent) wrench, or a good pair of channel-lock pliers are in order. The nut should not be very tight, just make sure you have the wrench/pliers set as tight as possible. Remember how tight it was on there, so you can gauge how tight to install it.
  • tmcburneytmcburney Posts: 8
    I have channel locks, vise grips, and an adjustable that will all span the nut. The nut is recessed though, since the oil cooler is like a shallow bowl and the nut sits in the bottom of the bowl. With the space and angle of access, I cant get enough of the nut with anything adjustable to get the initial turn. The vise grips broke loose on two tries and I don't want to strip the thing trying again.

    I'll take another run at it today, but was hoping there might be a source to get the size so I can get a socket and get it over with.

    Thanks,
    Tom
  • I am in need of some help, i have a 1990 honda accord Ex, yesterday i was nowticing that when ever the passenger and the other two doors would open the dome light would come on and the dash door lights would switch on, that is not the case with my driver side, not a darn thing happens, the automatic seatbelt works, but my speaker and all other things todo with it does not, i have ruled out possable shortage. I am curious to wonder why it wont just work. if you can answer please let me know.
    Thank you.
  • geonerdgeonerd Posts: 8
    Unless the rotors are TURNING (and dragging against the pads), no heat can be generated.

    Putting car in N will save a few drops of gas and slightly cool the transmission - not a bad thing to do, IMO.
  • I just started college. :o) I bought a 1992 Accord EX with 126,000 miles. Two weeks later the car randomly would not start. I left the car with my mechanic to drive for days. BTW he has serviced my parents and grandparents cars for years. He never experienced a problem with my vehicle while he had it. I continue to deal with a random starting issue. The fuel pump has recently been replaced. Help!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It could be the electrical part of the ignition switch, or the Main fuel relay. If the car has more problems when it's hot, I suspect main relay. This link has a lot of information about your Accord, and could at least give you some ideas. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    I have my Accord EX for three years. It was in great shape when I first got it but now problems has arised but I have no time and money to fix my car. I'd like to sell it for a fair price. Here are the pros and cons on my car.

    Pros: A/C is ice cold, no dents, drivable, sunroof works, CD radio is working

    Cons: driver's window motor is faulty and wont go down, ABS light goes on, D4 light blinks, driver's inside plastic door handle broke.Car hesitates when driving.

    What price should I sell it? I feel it needs a complete tune up and it'll be purring like a cat.

    Thanks
    jim
  • Couple of questions.
    What year, mileage?

    Issues with the D4 light are the tranny computer, 300-400 bucks for a new one maybe more, not hard to fix. I have actually fixed the computer myself before. ABS is probably speed sensor. Window motor needed replaced (duuu, i'm a mechanicic. . . ) Car hesitates is probably the D4 issue. You shouldn't be driving it right now.

    What color?

    Thanks for info,

    We are looking for another, I have a 1990, also had a 1992, great cars if you know the bugs and how to fix them.
  • I've got a 1990 ex with a 2.2 in it. They are great cars (had a 1992 and sold it at 200k). . But right now here is what I have happen. I'm getting lousy gas mileage in town, like 15 or less? But its a lot of less then 5 miles per trip. I redid the top half a little bit ago, Oct 2008 due to oil usage. Fixed the valve guide leaks but it still uses oil, on a trip it does like 1 qt per 500 miles or so? At 6K RPM she puts out a cloud of smoke (quick acceleration) . On a trip I get from 28-32 MPG if I don't run the air and keep it at 55 MPH and 65-75 MPH and air going its more like 25-28 MPG. It was a little sluggish but I put a new filter in and that seems to solve that (AC on it was sluggish) I had last put filter on in 2008 Oct. It doesn't seem to put out smoke like some cars do on idle. Any ideas? I checked the PCV valve which by sucking on it it stops one way and not the other. (air movement) Which it was replaced in like Oct 2008 as well. Any ideas? Oil rings? Comp rings? I can tear the car apart in my sleep and put it back together but don't really know the technical stuff. (and it works as well if not better when I'm done, not back yard duct tape type, take stuff apart and not know what to do then.)

    I love the car, just wish I knew if the oil consumption was a big problem. (yes thats bad but is it something I can just add oil for the next 50 K miles or is it something that will die yesterday)

    130 K miles on Odometer if they didn't do something before I bought it (crooked). Timing belt and all that replaced when I did the head.

    Thanks
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hey there,
    My car is 93 and over 145,000 miles now. what price can I get for my Accord EX? What's a price that I should look into spending to get my car in tip top shape again if I decide to not sell it?
    Thanks
    Jim
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Check out Kelley Blue Book to determine what your car is worth. They're at www.kbb.com
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    hey Grad

    KBB shows I can get $2100 for my car and that is in fair condition, poor was not an option.
  • i am having huge problems with my accord CB7.. i have the f22a6 in it.. so bassically my car starts only when it wants to it.. i think its the fuel pump relay but i CANT find it.. i have auto start on the car and i think they may have cut off my relay and somehow connected the autostart to turn the pump on.. the fuel pump does not turn on half the time.. i need help please make suggestions because the relay is nowere to be found under the dash
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    cb7,
    This link may help you. The main relay will usually have more problems when it's hot inside the car. If you could park in the shade it may help until you can get another relay in there (if that's your problem). Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
    PS: The relay should be under the dash bolted to the side near the driver side door.
  • ive looked and still cannot find the relay.. it is not bulted into the side or anywere els.. i am so confused
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    I replaced my fuel pump 2 yrs ago due to poor fuel supply. I feel it's the fuel pump, fuel injection system or spark plugs that needs to be checked out now. I smell strong fuel when getting out of car when I park. My car jerks as I drive as if the fuel is not flowing evenly. What's the best way to get a true engine reading? Or a fuel system diagnostic test?

    Jim
  • my wires were taken off accidentally and I need to know the firing order on the distributor for a 1990 honda accord lx and where is the number one post located?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,780
    Okay, your distibutor cap has a little ARROW to mark # 1 cylinder--it points to where #1 wire should go in.

    Starting there, you go CLOCKWISE 1-3-4-2.

    Your engine's cylinders, starting from the FRONT of the car, are 4-3-2-1.

    So you plug #1 wire from cap to # 1 cylinder, #3 wire to #3 cylinder, and so on.

    MODERATOR

  • bajajoesbajajoes Posts: 48
    I realize your post is from 2005 but if you are around I wanted to ask how/why

    todays oils are so superior to pre 1999 at preventing sludge build-up?

    :)
  • I desperately need a car ive found a 90 Honda Accord Ex with about 149k for sale for $1950 in my area. I havent went to see it up close yet but from the pics ive seen online it looks like its in real good condition, the interior looks very clean, CD player installed,sunroof, mag wheels, new paint job it looks like. But im worried about the car being soo OLD. Everyone tells me Hondas are like extremely reliable so can anyone share sum insight??
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    A 90 Accord is a good reliable car, that is, if the maintenance and repairs have been kept up. Little things will go wrong over the years, but if the previous owner took care of them as they happened, it could be in great shape. If he/she let things go, it could be a nightmare. I suggest getting someone (professional) to check the car out for you, before buying. I had a 92 Accord for 12 years. I loved that car, and still miss it.
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